14 December I walked down to the river and crossed, with memories of the Whanganui Marathon, then climbed steeply up the steps on Durie Hill; that was a heart starter. I was expecting the road out of Whanganui to be a little rural road but it was unpleasantly busy and virtually no shoulder. I had glimpses of Ruapehu. After several hours I turned onto another road which was only marginally quieter. 5 kms further on I turned onto SH3. That was crazy with trucks and cars encroaching on the shoulder, extremely busy, lots of overtaking. The grass beyond the shoulder was uneven and difficult to walk on. After a kilometre I had a break at a rest area. 7 kms of this still to do. (I’m walking extra on SH3 to avoid a river crossing that would be thigh deep at low tide, 8.30 tonight, rain coming, with 4 kms to go to the campsite.) I went as far off the road as I could, behind crash barriers if possible and the worst part was a downhill at the end where I had to go through long grass precariously on a hillside. The TA used to go this way, I saw signs.
I stopped for lunch immediately I finished the highway at Turakina and saw lots of trucks on my side road. As I walked down the road I realised I was seeing the same few trucks over and over, and I found out they were loading up with grass clippings and delivering them to farmers for silage. By the time I was near Kotiatia I could see the ocean, so I’m back on the west coast, and the settlement was surprisingly large with a mix of nice houses and complete junk yards. I camped with a lot of TA walkers, 16 tents, all of whom had done the river crossing - seems I got bad intel (except for the rain which came at 5). I took a quick peek at the black sand beach. 35 kms
Day 50: 15 December Almost half the day was on the black sand beach, lots of logs lying around and fairly calm ocean. There were a few ankle deep creeks. It was drizzly after a wet night. I walked with an Australian guy. After the beach we walked through knee high grass to reach a road, which was quiet. The rest of the day was on roads through flat featureless countryside and I was over it by the time we got to Bulls. Plenty of statues of bulls and corny signs. In Bulls I had a scoop of chips then went to the holiday park, requiring crossing SH1 with solid traffic. It is quite odd to suddenly be among so many TA people, just like at the beginning. 34 kms
16 December Another day of roads. I started by crossing the wide Rangitikei River on SH1 and turned onto a quieter road. Then some busier ones. At first I could see the Tararuas clearly but the range disappeared into cloud. I stopped at Mt Lees picnic area, nice and quiet and it rained briefly. Just outside Feilding I sat on a fence for a break and a guy pulled off the road to tell me his sister had done the TA. He said the holiday park in Feilding wasn’t nice. (I knew it was way out of town.) When I got to Feilding (which I had been looking forward to because I only saw it briefly when I ran the marathon and it has often been voted NZ’s most beautiful town) I decided to take the bus to Palmerston North, camp there for 2 nights and return to Feilding tomorrow to walk sans pack. A guy in the street was bemused by all the walkers he was seeing and quizzed me on what we were up to. At the holiday park I had a good chat with Russell/Timber Trail Steve and a Dutch pair I saw at Waipu Cove. At 2.30 am I had to pick up my tent and move it because a woman was behaving weirdly close by. My fellow tenters were surprised to see my tent in a different place in the morning. 20 kms
17 December I got the bus back to Feilding. The walking was wet and tedious, a long straight road next to the railway line followed by a token detour through wasteland with a dirty creek to cross. I stopped in Bunnythorpe at the shop (which has been closing down for the past 4 years according to comments on my app) and bought a good sandwich. The next part was a trample through knee high wet grass, more wasteland and across some paddocks with the usual excessive number of stiles. It was no more interesting than walking on the road. I emerged on the edge of Palmerston North in a very industrial area as the rain was getting heavy. I stopped at the first cafe I came to. Then I continued to the city centre and out the other side to the holiday park, eating a pie on the move. (It’s ages ago that I ate pies in the rain in Auckland.) It was a disappointingly dull day with far too much rain. 22 kms
18 December I took the bus to Wellington for a few days off the trail with Denis.
22 December I set out with Denis and Dom to walk the last section of the North Island part of the TA. This is out of sequence but it suited me to do it now. We left the hotel in Wellington cbd and walked along the waterfront to Oriental Bay 
then turned inland on the Southern Walkway. It is all so pretty with the timber houses on the hillsides. There was a considerable climb up Mt Victoria, partly forest, partly open, for a great view over the city and then we walked over Mt Alfred and Mt Albert. Dom left the group at Kilbirnie. We had continuing nice views towards the airport, the Basin Reserve and the coast around Lyall Bay. 
We passed the zoo and saw raccoons and had a long descent to Houghton Bay. From there we followed the coast to Island Bay and the southern TA terminus of the North Island. There was a plaque noting this. Denis took the celebratory photos.
We walked into Island Bay for coffee and cake / sandwich. 14 kms
We passed the zoo and saw raccoons and had a long descent to Houghton Bay. From there we followed the coast to Island Bay and the southern TA terminus of the North Island. There was a plaque noting this. Denis took the celebratory photos.
We walked into Island Bay for coffee and cake / sandwich. 14 kms
24 December 40th wedding anniversary. Denis returned to Melbourne and I took the bus back to Palmerston North. I went back to the holiday park and had a really unpleasant experience when I tried to check in for the night, the guy was extremely abusive to me and I left. I headed across the river and along a walkway, going through bush and passing little parks. After a while I saw someone and asked for tenting suggestions; he pointed to a barn and said I could go inside it. I went there and found it was full of horse jumping equipment and it looked ok to sleep in. 5 kms
Day 60: 25 December, also known as Christmas Day. I started out early. The trail was a mix of road and bush path, called the Green Corridor, some completely flooded, alongside very full streams. I had breakfast by a stream then climbed hillsides and descended into the next valley. From the top I had a view towards the coast over the farmland of the Manawatu. When I got to Kahuterawa reserve I stopped for morning tea. The gravel road continued to an area of mountain bike trails and I climbed in forest alongside a gushing stream. It was very pretty and I crossed the stream numerous times. There was nobody around.
At exactly 1 pm I reached a sign indicating the halfway point of the TA. Soon after I came out onto the tops with cleared hillsides and undulated along to a hut.
I continued to the start of Burttons Track where there was a view back to the forested hills and towards the lowlands. Then I went into dense forest. There was plenty of mud; it was lovely, with dappled sunlight and completely quiet. I crossed several streams getting wet feet and came to the Tokomaru River which was very attractive in the sunshine. From here there was a reroute and I had a hefty climb up and over a hill, twisting and turning all over the place; it felt harder being at the end of a long day. I came down eventually and arrived at my planned campsite, which turned out to be a beautiful clearing just above the river, grassy and flat with punga. 33 kms
26 December I went back into the forest and followed the river which made nice trickling sounds. I crossed many streams and a few fixed up land slips. The path went through grassy clearings and mossy forest. It was a beautiful sunny morning. I stopped at Tokomaru hut and saw that the waist strap on my pack was broken so I did a makeshift repair. After a few kms on a dirt road I went into the Tararua Forest Park for a long muddy slog. I was headed for a couple of lookouts. First I had to cross streams and I stopped at the biggest, Blackwood Stream, which was in 3 sections, very pretty with little rapids and pools. 
The climb to the Horowhenua Lookout was endless and increasingly muddy and when I got there I almost missed it because it wasn’t signed. (I’m a bit over these lengthy climbs in forest with no views on the way.) If I stood on the picnic table I could see the Manawatu River snaking its way to the coast at Foxton and a range of hills in the foreground. The second lookout was much better; from a seated position I could see a lot of coastline, forested and cleared hills, a bit of Kapiti Island and the outline of South Island hills. Seeing the South Island was a buzz. The descent was direct and I liked that. In the lowland forest there were at least 20 stream crossings which kept my feet cool; every stream was bubbling and pretty. Then I came to a grassy break at the edge of the forest; I hadn’t yet completed what I planned for the day but I decided to camp there. It was a beautiful evening and clear starry night. 22 kms
The climb to the Horowhenua Lookout was endless and increasingly muddy and when I got there I almost missed it because it wasn’t signed. (I’m a bit over these lengthy climbs in forest with no views on the way.) If I stood on the picnic table I could see the Manawatu River snaking its way to the coast at Foxton and a range of hills in the foreground. The second lookout was much better; from a seated position I could see a lot of coastline, forested and cleared hills, a bit of Kapiti Island and the outline of South Island hills. Seeing the South Island was a buzz. The descent was direct and I liked that. In the lowland forest there were at least 20 stream crossings which kept my feet cool; every stream was bubbling and pretty. Then I came to a grassy break at the edge of the forest; I hadn’t yet completed what I planned for the day but I decided to camp there. It was a beautiful evening and clear starry night. 22 kms
27 December Sunny. I walked along a grassy trail and went into farmland. After yet another stream crossing I was back on a sealed road. I’m now in the Wellington region. I could see the Tararua Ranges in the distance. I embarked on the trail to Waiopehu Hut; this is the former TA route and I had read that it is better than the new route. I had a long 800 metre climb in forest, quite an open forest with changing vegetation and not much in the way of views but I could sense mountains all around. The trail was steep in places and muddy but mostly the mud was drying. After 4 hours I was above the tree line and the going got really steep but I was suddenly getting amazing views of the mountains.
I was pleased to reach the hut (970 m) where the views of the mountains and the coast (Levin and Lake Horowhenua, a sweep of sand as far as Whanganui) were superb, and of course I was totally not expecting such good weather. 18 kms
I was pleased to reach the hut (970 m) where the views of the mountains and the coast (Levin and Lake Horowhenua, a sweep of sand as far as Whanganui) were superb, and of course I was totally not expecting such good weather. 18 kms
28 December In the morning I could see Mt Taranaki and Mt Ruapehu from the hut. There were tame silvereyes in the bushes The trail soon climbed above the bush line and went over 2 peaks. Great views of the mountains. It was wonderful. 
Then I descended into forest and rejoined the current TA to get to Te Matawai Hut. The hut had a great outlook over the Main Range. A French (non TA) walker was happy that we could have a conversation in French and I had difficulty getting away. As I left the hut I could see clouds hovering over the peaks I was headed for.
The first stretch was through high tussock grass which made walking interesting as it was easy to trip on the grass and the grass could hide lurking mud. Then the terrain became rocky. It got a bit windy as I approached the Main Range Track but I was in my element finally with the alpine terrain.
I was on a knife edge ridge surrounded by high peaks, some forested and others tussock grass and low bushes. I could see Kapiti Island clearly. I could see a stream far below. I undulated along the ridge passing over several knobs and then returned into forest. The trees were weird stunted beech all covered in moss, in fact moss everywhere.
Quite soon I stopped seeing the orange markers and found I was off the trail; I was confused because I seemed to be on a trail and when I went back to the last marker I’d seen I still couldn’t see others, then suddenly I saw several. When I continued I was correct according to my gps but the direction felt intuitively wrong. I thought maybe I was tired and should stop at the next hut. There were more obstacles, mainly fallen trees, along this part of the trail. Dracophyllum Hut had an open tussocky area nearby, and was definitely the most scenic place I’ve tented on this hike with a view over tomorrow’s route. Overnight the clouds vanished. 16 kms
Then I descended into forest and rejoined the current TA to get to Te Matawai Hut. The hut had a great outlook over the Main Range. A French (non TA) walker was happy that we could have a conversation in French and I had difficulty getting away. As I left the hut I could see clouds hovering over the peaks I was headed for.
The first stretch was through high tussock grass which made walking interesting as it was easy to trip on the grass and the grass could hide lurking mud. Then the terrain became rocky. It got a bit windy as I approached the Main Range Track but I was in my element finally with the alpine terrain.
I was on a knife edge ridge surrounded by high peaks, some forested and others tussock grass and low bushes. I could see Kapiti Island clearly. I could see a stream far below. I undulated along the ridge passing over several knobs and then returned into forest. The trees were weird stunted beech all covered in moss, in fact moss everywhere.
Quite soon I stopped seeing the orange markers and found I was off the trail; I was confused because I seemed to be on a trail and when I went back to the last marker I’d seen I still couldn’t see others, then suddenly I saw several. When I continued I was correct according to my gps but the direction felt intuitively wrong. I thought maybe I was tired and should stop at the next hut. There were more obstacles, mainly fallen trees, along this part of the trail. Dracophyllum Hut had an open tussocky area nearby, and was definitely the most scenic place I’ve tented on this hike with a view over tomorrow’s route. Overnight the clouds vanished. 16 kms
29 December I returned into the mossy forest for a long up and down walk with fabulous views from a couple of clearings. In places the going was sketchy, some on a knife edge ridge, and I slipped once. 
Near Nichols Hut I came out onto the tussock tops and from there I had a steady climb along the rocky ridge (low grass, alpine daisies, flowering lichens) to the summit of Mt Crawford (1462 m).
The 360 degree view of the mountains encircling the main range was amazing, with just a small band of cloud over the coast and only a light wind. I had a nasty descent then up again to Junction Knob and similar to Shoulder Knob, both over 1300 m. From Shoulder Knob I looked directly down into the Otaki River valley. That was my next destination and the endless descent in the forest was not fun. It was steep and rooty with big steps down and many obstructing logs. On slippery wet roots it would be a nightmare; it was challenging enough in the dry. Even when I could hear the river I still had a long way to go. I crossed the river on a wobbly suspension bridge which looked in need of maintenance. From there I had a short way to walk along the river to Waitewaewae Hut where I caught up with some walkers I knew. I was exhausted. I put up my tent by the river. 16 kms
Near Nichols Hut I came out onto the tussock tops and from there I had a steady climb along the rocky ridge (low grass, alpine daisies, flowering lichens) to the summit of Mt Crawford (1462 m).
The 360 degree view of the mountains encircling the main range was amazing, with just a small band of cloud over the coast and only a light wind. I had a nasty descent then up again to Junction Knob and similar to Shoulder Knob, both over 1300 m. From Shoulder Knob I looked directly down into the Otaki River valley. That was my next destination and the endless descent in the forest was not fun. It was steep and rooty with big steps down and many obstructing logs. On slippery wet roots it would be a nightmare; it was challenging enough in the dry. Even when I could hear the river I still had a long way to go. I crossed the river on a wobbly suspension bridge which looked in need of maintenance. From there I had a short way to walk along the river to Waitewaewae Hut where I caught up with some walkers I knew. I was exhausted. I put up my tent by the river. 16 kms
30 December Another very difficult day. I set out climbing above the river all in forest, climbing for no apparent reason. Early on I tripped on a small log grazing my knee and also smashing my face on a rock; my lip was bleeding. The trail went all over the place but often upwards. There were so many huge fallen trees and slips where even the little detour paths people had made were hard, and it was extremely slow going. So much awkward clambering over things. I was often going off the trail without realising. In all this forest there was a single brief opening with a view. I was walking with Chris from Christchurch and pleased I wasn’t alone. After 4 hours and 6 kms we were out of the worst. The next kilometre was flat and fast so I felt great, then I noticed an enormous slip ahead, the biggest I’ve seen here. There was a tiny path climbing steeply up above the slip which was very tricky coming back down (and mentioned nowhere in the trail notes although it clearly didn’t happen recently). After that drama the trail was ok and I crossed the wide Otaki River again on a safer suspension bridge. There was supposed to be a hut nearby but none of the signs showed it and the access turned out to be an unmarked single track over grass which led me around in a circle. It had suddenly become incredibly windy so I curtailed my ambitions for the day. We stayed several hours at the hut and then walked down a dirt road to a huge, but unmaintained, campsite (which cars can no longer reach due to slips) surrounded by Tararua Forest Park hills. 17 kms
31 December Seventh day of sunshine in the Tararuas - so lucky, and also to be with such a nice bunch of hikers. This was a bonus day in the Tararuas for me as I hadn’t appreciated that the Pukeatua trail was still in the mountains when I did my planning. I set out for the Pukeatua trail, entering the forest and following a well made undulating trail on a ledge on the hillside. Something about it wasn’t right and to my horror I realised I was on the wrong trail, a loop trail, and I was so far along that it was the lesser distance to complete the loop back to my starting point. (It was a really nice trail at the forest edge with views towards the mountains but a pity to be walking extra distance.) I started out again and it was hard to see what I had done wrong but I found the correct trail up Pukeatua (812 m). I had a lengthy climb with a few clearings on a fairly good path (some vines that grabbed my pack and some downed trees) and I managed a solid clip. The Tararua foothills views were good but nothing like the previous days’ scenery and there was cloud on the higher peaks. The descent in the forest was steep in places but manageable. As I left the forest I was surrounded by ugly logged hillsides. Such a contrast. Lower down I joined a logging track which was slippery with loose rocks. I crossed a wide stream, immersing my shoes, and then I crossed the Waikanae River on a suspension bridge to a car park marking the end of my Tararuas journey. Phew. I had dreaded this so much.
The next couple of hours were on bitumen roads in the full sun until I reached Waikanae. I had a large ice cream at the first dairy in town and then bought food for my quiet New Year’s Eve solo party. I walked along the riverside walkway to a campground (Christian, no alcohol allowed) and set up in a corner to feast in private. I drank a Recorderlig with my cheese and tomato rolls and grain waves, and I fell asleep before midnight but woke up to hear people counting in the New Year. 35 kms
1 January 2023 I walked further along the Waikanae River until I reached the estuary (saw shags and other waterfowl) and turned onto the beach. Kapiti Island was close off shore and I paralleled its full length.
The tide was out so I had plenty of space, but it wasn’t an especially attractive beach (dark sand), although the dunes in the second half were an improvement. The sky clouded over and the wind picked up and I became quite cold. There were a few tame creeks to cross. I was pleased to find the sole cafe in Paekakariki was open.
The tide was out so I had plenty of space, but it wasn’t an especially attractive beach (dark sand), although the dunes in the second half were an improvement. The sky clouded over and the wind picked up and I became quite cold. There were a few tame creeks to cross. I was pleased to find the sole cafe in Paekakariki was open.
Then I went onto the Escarpment Track. A lot of work has gone into this track. It began with a climb above the railway line and highway with a view down the coast, and after descending back to sea level it again climbed but this time much higher, with hundreds of steps, to a lookout with a great view of Kapiti Island, hills around Nelson and the Pukerua Bay peninsula. I stopped counting the descending steps at 500. There were short interludes in dry forest and a couple of suspension bridges across steep valleys, and a nasty temporary path around a slip (the story of the North Island it seems). I descended to Pukerua Bay on a circuitous route and took the bus to Porirua to camp. 27 kms
2 January The dawn chorus is always good here but today’s was exceptional. I dropped off my pack at a motel and took the bus back to Pukerua Bay to commence 2 days of walking packless. The trail was on a sealed bike/pedestrian path initially between the highway and the railway line, then improved beyond Plimmerton. I walked near the beach with views of nearby Mana Island and the more distant Marlborough Sounds, went through a marina, walked along the station platform at Paremata, passed a lagoon and looked at a Victorian homestead. It’s a generally pretty area with hills and water. It was very hot. I had anticipated a cruisy day with coffee stops but I didn’t pass a single cafe. I got all the way back to Porirua and only the fast food places were open (because it was a public holiday). So Maccas it was. 14 kms
3 January I took a little path across Porirua, avoiding the shops and industrial streets which I’ve got to know well in the last few days, to the Colonial Knob walkway. Initially this climbed steeply in a dry forest on wooden steps, which felt unusual after my recent forest walking. It was great to emerge on grassy tops and I walked along a lovely ridge with views west to the Marlborough Sounds and east over the outer Wellington region ((low mountain range included). I descended gradually for some road walking through a rural landscape that surprised me so close to the city.
I left the road to begin the Skyline walkway towards Mt Kaukau. I saw some people sitting in the shade and they were Lisa and Marcus. We walked together up Mt Kaukau, mainly in the open with good views over Wellington and the harbour, and descended by a tiny stream to the suburbs. Every cafe was still closed for Christmas. I peeled off at Ngaio station as a Wellington bound train arrived, and returned (via Wellington) to Porirua. With only a few kilometres to go I drank a glass of Kiwi bubbly in the evening to celebrate finishing the North Island. 25 kms
Day 70: 4 January From Ngaio station I joined a short streamside path and then had to climb some incredibly steep suburban streets. I returned to the bush and followed the Northern Walkway, an undulating path rising almost to the top of Tinakori Hill in pine forest with some views over central Wellington and across the harbour.
I descended to civilisation (Thorndon) and climbed slightly so I could walk down to the city through the historic cemetery. I got to Lambton Quay and then the Intercontinental Hotel, my completion point for the North Island (since I did the final TA section before Christmas). It felt good but not amazing; I think I was more elated finishing the Tararuas.
I descended to civilisation (Thorndon) and climbed slightly so I could walk down to the city through the historic cemetery. I got to Lambton Quay and then the Intercontinental Hotel, my completion point for the North Island (since I did the final TA section before Christmas). It felt good but not amazing; I think I was more elated finishing the Tararuas.
Wellington was bleak with no cafes open. I took the afternoon Interislander ferry to Picton. 7 kms
Total to date: 1687 kms
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