Southern Italy seemed like a perfect place to go early in the year and the Via Francigena nel Sud sounded interesting; rather like last year's Via de la Plata this was a walk based on roads built by the Romans, Via Appia and Via Traiana, and used since 300AD as a pilgrimage route between Rome and Jerusalem. A walk from Rome to the tip of Italy's heel where I expected to enjoy Roman ruins, medieval villages, lots of churches, coastal stretches, quiet trails, pizza, coffee.
8 March The Via Francigena nel Sud begins. I left my hotel near the Vatican and went the short distance to St Peter's Square, 
quiet in the early morning. I turned away and headed for a few kilometres past some major Rome landmarks: over the top Vittorio Emanuele monument, several Roman forums with columns and structures, Colosseum
Constantine arch and then quieter cobbled roads to Quo Vadis church. It was a lovely way to leave a big city, with no ugliness around the edges. Sunny. From there parkland climbing past catacombs to Via Appia Antica. Dead straight. Many walkers and bike riders. Road went by several villas, ruins and mausoleums from antiquity and just as I was thinking a coffee would be nice I came to a roadside cafe. It's lucky I stopped there because it was the only one I saw until Castel Gandolfo.
quiet in the early morning. I turned away and headed for a few kilometres past some major Rome landmarks: over the top Vittorio Emanuele monument, several Roman forums with columns and structures, Colosseum
Constantine arch and then quieter cobbled roads to Quo Vadis church. It was a lovely way to leave a big city, with no ugliness around the edges. Sunny. From there parkland climbing past catacombs to Via Appia Antica. Dead straight. Many walkers and bike riders. Road went by several villas, ruins and mausoleums from antiquity and just as I was thinking a coffee would be nice I came to a roadside cafe. It's lucky I stopped there because it was the only one I saw until Castel Gandolfo.
Continued along this straight flagstone footpath, a bit more open with hills on the horizon ahead and lots more ruins of towers, high mausoleums, arches and doorways, odd fragments of decorative stones, column bases, walls, and the road was lined with cypresses and pines. After several hours the paved road became a dirt track leading to and skirting a not very attractive town (and right under a flight path); my guidebook said I would be surprised that the route crosses a Maccas car park but I never saw the Maccas.
From the town I was on a series of sealed roads by houses (some olive trees) heading constantly uphill. I was worried about black clouds ahead. As I got higher I had views over the plains around Rome (without seeing Rome) and I was pleased to see the clouds retreat. The town of Castel Gandolfo was on a ridge, actually the rim of a crater above Lago Albano (and hills shrouded in black clouds beyond) and I climbed further to a lively square in front of the papal summer palace. In the evening I ate a plate of meats and cheeses outside but it was cold. 27 kms
9 March l walked down the road to Albano Laziale, had breakfast, passed the overgrown remains of a Roman amphitheatre and went on to Nemi. The route was on a forest path initially above the lake with views across to Castel Gandolfo in sunshine, 
the forest was very wintry. Small caves. Some recent logging, muddy tracks and they were collecting up branches. Second part of path was above another volcanic lake Lago di Nemi. All climbing until I reached Nemi, entered the hilltop town via an old archway. Everywhere in the town was selling wild strawberry tarts so I had one. The town was colourful with tiers of houses and the views over the town as I left were nice, also views over the lake.
the forest was very wintry. Small caves. Some recent logging, muddy tracks and they were collecting up branches. Second part of path was above another volcanic lake Lago di Nemi. All climbing until I reached Nemi, entered the hilltop town via an old archway. Everywhere in the town was selling wild strawberry tarts so I had one. The town was colourful with tiers of houses and the views over the town as I left were nice, also views over the lake.
The route went back into forest, again very black clouds but no rain. More loggers collecting branches. When I emerged from the forest I had a long descent through a village and reached the outskirts of Velletri where I had to walk along a busy road, not so nice. Velletri was uninspiring apart from a view over the lowlands from a terrace at the top of the hill with the town hall. I visited the cathedral (which just looked like a town building) with frescoes, Roman columns in the crypt, ornate ceiling.
50 kilometres from Rome there are already no tourists and I'm speaking Italian out of necessity rather than choice. 24 kms
10 March I had to walk along busy roads out of Velletri passing big houses with olive groves, and I met a trio of Australian VF walkers heading for Bari. Went onto a nicer path (muddy) through fields with hills on the horizon and came to Lake Giulianello. Then a dirt road passing more fields until I reached an even busier road; I was able to walk on a muddy track at the edge of a field until the last kilometre. I stopped for a cafe macchiato at a bar in Giulianello and went in the church.
Leaving the town there was a great view of the tiny village of Rocca Massima perched on a hilltop. The route was soon paved and on a series of roads beside olive groves climbing all the time (with a bit too much traffic) and extensive views over the coastal plains. After a while I could see Cori on an adjacent hilltop and I entered the town at almost the highest point. 
From there I walked steadily downhill on a maze of narrow medieval streets (all buildings plain stone), some with steps down the middle, some stairways, under archways, past many unadorned churches and with views over the valley, to reach where I was staying. Nearby was a town gate and thick stone walls.
From there I walked steadily downhill on a maze of narrow medieval streets (all buildings plain stone), some with steps down the middle, some stairways, under archways, past many unadorned churches and with views over the valley, to reach where I was staying. Nearby was a town gate and thick stone walls.
The town didn't make a single concession to tourism, refreshingly authentic but made it hard to find the sights. I was able to locate eventually the remains of the temple of Castor and Pollux (a couple of Roman columns squashed between newer buildings) and the Temple of Hercules at the top of the town overlooking the plains (columns from a Roman temple joined onto a more recent tower). 21 kms
11 March Breakfast at a Tabacchi then a long climb onto the Lepini hills. Very nice (and sunny) with initially views back to Cori 
and then over the patchwork fields of the coastal plains which were misty, all the time by olive groves and it was pruning time. Coming into Norma I detoured to the Roman remains at Norba on a hilltop, little there apart from a stretch of the walls, plinths and outlines of streets. Coffee in Norma where it was cooler. The old town with very narrow streets was perched on the edge of a cliff. Pretty pink church.
and then over the patchwork fields of the coastal plains which were misty, all the time by olive groves and it was pruning time. Coming into Norma I detoured to the Roman remains at Norba on a hilltop, little there apart from a stretch of the walls, plinths and outlines of streets. Coffee in Norma where it was cooler. The old town with very narrow streets was perched on the edge of a cliff. Pretty pink church.
I descended the wooded cliff face on a narrow path, 
reached a road and descended more to the plain; all the while I could see Sermoneta with its castle walls ahead on top of another hill so I knew I was in for a climb. Looking back at Norma on its cliff was an impressive sight.
I detoured to a Cistercian abbey but only saw the cloister as it was closed. On past olive trees until I had a steep but brief climb to Sermoneta.
reached a road and descended more to the plain; all the while I could see Sermoneta with its castle walls ahead on top of another hill so I knew I was in for a climb. Looking back at Norma on its cliff was an impressive sight.
I detoured to a Cistercian abbey but only saw the cloister as it was closed. On past olive trees until I had a steep but brief climb to Sermoneta.
As usual I arrived at the closed up time of day but this town was the real medieval deal: entrance arches, tiny streets, pale stone houses, archways connecting buildings, lots of steps.
Sermoneta was unusual both in being clean and in expecting tourists, definitely the cutest of the hilltop towns. The castle walls at the very top towered over the small town. I had a sandwich made at the shop and ate it in the 15th century covered market place.
Went in the 12th c cathedral, austere but with a decorative tower.
Sermoneta was unusual both in being clean and in expecting tourists, definitely the cutest of the hilltop towns. The castle walls at the very top towered over the small town. I had a sandwich made at the shop and ate it in the 15th century covered market place.
Went in the 12th c cathedral, austere but with a decorative tower.
I walked out of the town to a campsite in the hills at a farmhouse and I ate with the owners. 24 kms
12 March There was a nice rocky path contouring the hillside with a few cows on the path and more hillsides covered with olive trees and other bushes. After a while I was looking right down over a larger town on the plain with the misty sea beyond. It rained lightly. When I reached a sealed road I was walking directly towards Sezze on a hill ahead but there was another village to descend to and climb out of first. I went in Sezze cathedral, simple outside and inside and walked through the rundown old town.
I continued climbing to the edge of Sezze (a totally grass covered amphitheatre) then began a long descent to the plains on a grassy/rocky path on the side of Monte Trevi. More cows and obnoxious barking dogs. Prickly pear. I could see Priverno on a low hill in the distance. At the bottom I walked through a village and sheltered from a shower while there was thunder in the mountains. The route followed a narrow canal through fields and then I had the final climb to Priverno on a busy road; no shoulder, fast traffic and lots of litter.
Priverno was a sizeable town with many older ornate buildings, St Antony Abate church covered in frescoes inside, cathedral at the top of the old town. It was surrounded by hills dotted with houses or tiny villages. Men hanging around in groups everywhere. I stayed in what I was told was the only accommodation in the town. I went to a bar for a snack; suddenly a storm came up and it poured heavily. In a break in the rain I had a glass of wine and a sandwich on the way back to my room so I wouldn't get stranded. 25 kms
13 March I left Priverno via the old town in better weather and had a steep descent down to the valley for a walk beside a river. Nice hill views all around. Near Fossanova the path went around the edge of some fields and had nasty sticky mud. I went through the grounds of the former Cistercian abbey (first in Italy) and into the complex: cloister, chapter house, plenty of nuns and monks around, and the large plain church. Then I sat in the sunshine at the cafe.
I took a VF variant heading for the mountains and had a long sharp climb to Sonnino. At first passing big houses with olive trees and barking dogs then just the olive trees and views of hillsides terraced with stone walls. I could almost always see back down to the abbey and I had the best views so far over the plains to the Tyrrhenian Sea because the weather was clear, and I could still see back to Sezze. The hills rose abruptly from the vast plain.
I was surprised to see how large Sonnino was, spread over a sloping valley, the distinctive older part with stone and red tile buildings and a few church towers. 
As I walked downhill through the town I saw no commerce at all until a bar appeared right near my accommodation. The old town was a jumble of tiny cobbled streets, some precipitously steep with an amazing outlook down to the plain, tucked away churches, archways. 17 kms
As I walked downhill through the town I saw no commerce at all until a bar appeared right near my accommodation. The old town was a jumble of tiny cobbled streets, some precipitously steep with an amazing outlook down to the plain, tucked away churches, archways. 17 kms
14 March A day of two halves. I began with a long stretch in the mountains first following a limestone/grass gully then crossing to follow another on the other side of the ridge. It was stony underfoot. Then into spindly forest. Where there were clearings I could see big mountains all around and down into a narrow valley but I could also see cloud creeping towards me and soon I was engulfed in it with no more views. 
The trail skirted around a couple of peaks to reach 800 metres and a grassy saddle with limestone rocks. As I descended in forest the path was muddier until I emerged by a derelict farmhouse. The path became much rockier and harder going. Not far along I heard and then saw two shepherds yelling at their cows in an effort to marshal them onto a big limestone slab - they kept careering into the bushes instead.
The trail skirted around a couple of peaks to reach 800 metres and a grassy saddle with limestone rocks. As I descended in forest the path was muddier until I emerged by a derelict farmhouse. The path became much rockier and harder going. Not far along I heard and then saw two shepherds yelling at their cows in an effort to marshal them onto a big limestone slab - they kept careering into the bushes instead.
I reached a sealed road and continued the steep descent to the plain. After a kilometre I came to a shepherd herding his 50 goats along the road and he ushered me past. I had a short break at a picnic table in a cork forest.
I missed the turnoff for Monte San Baggio but I had a great view of the town on a small hill while eating lunch outside a cafe that was closed.
The second half involved tedious road walking, first to San Magno. I saw the abbey and hoped it was open; turned out to be crawling with people on a self improvement course and hard to get around. Then on to Fondi on a road passing small citrus orchards - the trees were tricky to reach (ditches or fences) but I managed to pick three very tasty blood oranges. Coming into Fondi I saw my first open cafe of the day. I had a walk along the modern Via Appia and Fondi was a normal town: shops, bars, people plus a huge old castle and a pretty church on a piazza with 14th c paintings. Pizza for dinner. 25 kms
15 March I left Fondi with good mountain views and walked along a quiet road by oranges and olives (and prickly pear). I picked a couple of slightly bitter oranges. After a while I had two original stretches of the Appian Way with flagstones, a Roman milepost, remains of many cisterns and several Napoleonic era ruins. It was nice to be back in the hills, but not for long, with a couple of walks along the shoulderless busy highway with crazy driving. Then a detour through the countryside and olive trees, with a lovely view over Itri in an adjacent valley from the highest point, the castle completely dominating the town. I descended into Itri where everything was closed but there were people around.
The old town had steep steps and narrow streets, most houses yellow plaster. Apart from the huge castle, which has been closed for works for years, 
there were two churches at the top of the old town, both with Moorish style bell towers; 12th c Sta Maria was ruined except for the tower
and 11th c intact St Michael had its belltower in the centre of the front entrance.
Tyrrhenian Sea views including islands way out. 16 kms
there were two churches at the top of the old town, both with Moorish style bell towers; 12th c Sta Maria was ruined except for the tower
and 11th c intact St Michael had its belltower in the centre of the front entrance.
Tyrrhenian Sea views including islands way out. 16 kms
16 March I left Itri expecting rain, with low cloud hanging over the town. I had a road with lots of traffic then a quieter road where the cars fizzled out but the roadside litter was atrocious. Views over the hills with houses dotted around and olive trees and then good views of the sea, also many islands. Long climb and long descent then another climb and at the top a chapel beside the road with a house built on top of it forming a tunnel over the road.
I arrived at Gaeta on a peninsula with masses of ugly apartment blocks, then came to the beach - nice yellow sand and surf, a cliff at one end, and the sun was out, but a bit forlorn with all the lidos closed up. I walked up the other side of the peninsula alongside the marina, boatyards and a beach with views back to the old town of Gaeta then I walked on the sand in Formia. Windy.
After a while I checked where I was and saw that I had missed the turnoff for Cicero's tomb; I was annoyed because I had to backtrack along a road with fast traffic and trucks and added 3 kilometres to my day. When I got to the tomb (authenticity uncertain) the entrance gate was locked so I climbed over it. The tomb was huge: big stone slabs and above them smaller stones making a very tall tower, with brickwork inside.
The VF went down the shopping street in Formia, then on a road near the beach, and onto a main road (the new Via Appia) with nothing of interest. I could sometimes glimpse the water. I was tired when I reached Gianola but I went to look at the beach: it had little breakwaters which made the sand form tiny scallops in the Japanese style. 29 kms
17 March I walked along the beach and found a popular bar for breakfast. Then a frustrating time walking along a nasty road and at the end of it I couldn't find the Roman ruins that were supposed to be there. I walked towards Scauri and was able to turn off onto a local road and then a dirt track leading to a 16th c ruined tower on a headland, compensation for missing the villa. Nice view towards a long beach, 
a small bay below and back to Gaeta and Formia. I walked along that beach for several kilometres; everything was closed up even in the town.
a small bay below and back to Gaeta and Formia. I walked along that beach for several kilometres; everything was closed up even in the town.
I skirted a headland and returned to a straight road behind the beach. After stopping to buy slices of tomato pizza at some sort of commercial bakery I went back onto the sand, smaller holiday places along the beach all looking abandoned. I went inland at the Garigliano River and followed it to Marina de Minturno archeological area, extremely disappointed to find it closed. I had tried unsuccessfully to book a room there but when I saw the hotel it was open so I checked in; a storm was coming. I took a little stroll to see the replica Bourbon bridge and Vespasian's very long aqueduct across the fields near the hotel. 20 kms
18 March Sunshine. I was able to visit the ruins first thing: an amphitheatre, remains of forums, mosaic floors, columns intact from one side of a portico, an arch and museum with lots of statues and inscribed stones. Some original Appian Way flagstones.
Then I crossed the Bourbon bridge leaving Lazio for Campania and settled in for a day on the roads. Some quieter through farmland but mostly with traffic; still lots of olive trees also pink flowering peach trees and white flowering cherry trees. The best part of the morning was coming unexpectedly on a cafe in a small village, but when I left the cafe the sun was gone and it was cold.
I had a race with the rain as I approached Sessa Aurunca, which I lost. I walked uphill seeing the yellow and green mosaic tiling on the cathedral dome and a gateway into the town then came past the massive amphitheatre in a valley below the town, 
some columns and brickwork remaining. Behind me I could still see the bay of Gaeta and islands. I crossed a piazza with a fountain surrounded by four headless statues. The old town had just wide enough streets for cars to race around and seemed dilapidated. Lots of closed up churches.
some columns and brickwork remaining. Behind me I could still see the bay of Gaeta and islands. I crossed a piazza with a fountain surrounded by four headless statues. The old town had just wide enough streets for cars to race around and seemed dilapidated. Lots of closed up churches.
The cathedral was quite a shock: lovely Romanesque on the outside and inside also for half its height (stone and marble) then the upper part finished in baroque painted stucco. 
The main square was dominated by the austere ducal palace. I stayed in a former Catholic school and chatted with the nuns (who gave me dinner). 20 kms
The main square was dominated by the austere ducal palace. I stayed in a former Catholic school and chatted with the nuns (who gave me dinner). 20 kms
19 March There was a light dusting of snow on one of the foothills of the distant Appenines. The main square was completely filled by a market. I left Sessa initially on a smelly mud path through weeds but the day improved. I passed a couple of abandoned churches and walked through some small villages; each village had at least one bonfire going (unattended). There were good views back to Sessa, the ducal palace towering over the town.
I walked past big peach orchards, a mass of pink, and cherry orchards, and a few lemon trees. Lots of olive trees. Very windy.
I walked past big peach orchards, a mass of pink, and cherry orchards, and a few lemon trees. Lots of olive trees. Very windy.
In Fontanelle (yellow stucco church with a stone Romanesque tower) there were people standing around their bonfire and I learnt that bonfires are the custom for St Giuseppe's Day.
From here the route went along a mountain path under some cliffs and with extensive views over the plains. Then a descent and a stretch on the flagstones of another Roman road. I came into Teano and it had little piazzas, churches and cars.
I traipsed around the town looking at churches in various states of decay, part of the 5th c town wall, 6th c entrance arch, peered at Roman statues in the closed museum and saw more snow on the Appenines from the rooftop of the museum. Then I found a bakery that only sold one type of cake, a brioche with decoration on top, and had a constant stream of customers. Pizza for dinner. 17 kms
20 March Sunny and crisp. I left Teano on a country lane passing the ruins of a smallish Roman amphitheatre with audience entry tunnels and brickwork around the seating, and olive trees by farmhouses. Teano with its high cathedral spire looked good from afar. Then a busy road with the usual litter and no shoulder until a servo with a nice cafe area.
A quieter road heading towards the snow covered mountains passing fruit orchards. I went through a small village full of barking dogs. Passed a high arched Roman bridge and reached Riardo with a sudden view of the higher old town topped by an imposing castle. I stopped for coffee because I could. I walked up to the castle (passing more colourful houses than usual): it was big and square with fortified corners and a central courtyard I could see through the closed gate. 
I left the town by a back road and descended to the valley then another quiet road to Pietramelara by fields. Soon I could see the town with an old section and a high tower on top of a knoll.
I left the town by a back road and descended to the valley then another quiet road to Pietramelara by fields. Soon I could see the town with an old section and a high tower on top of a knoll.
Pietramelara was interesting, a newer town below and the upper medieval part with streets almost uninhabited apart from pigeons, a real rabbit warren: mossy narrow alleys, archways, steps and unkempt in an attractive way. 
There was a lookout point over the valley, the mountains and back to Riardo (only the castle could be seen) and I could get to the base of the old tower.
There was a lookout point over the valley, the mountains and back to Riardo (only the castle could be seen) and I could get to the base of the old tower.
Another quiet road to San Croce and then Roccaromana, both small villages with old houses. High on a mountain top ahead I could see the tower I would be climbing to tomorrow. I stayed alone at the hostel in Roccaromana, a cat pushed my door open and slept on my bed all night. 22 kms
21 March I left Roccaromana with a climb mainly in forest to the Torre de Roccaromana, originally Norman, circular, a little chapel and remains of the enclosing wall but all closed. The best thing was the view towards the northern forested Matese range; the snowy Appenines were partly in cloud. 
Then a long descent through little Staglione and downhill on a very quiet narrow road through a gorge to Baia e Latina where I had coffee. A few medieval church towers. From there I had busier roads to the edge of Dragone where I could go on back streets (with dogs, lots of dogs all day) and after a picnic area by the railway line I was in countryside.
Then a long descent through little Staglione and downhill on a very quiet narrow road through a gorge to Baia e Latina where I had coffee. A few medieval church towers. From there I had busier roads to the edge of Dragone where I could go on back streets (with dogs, lots of dogs all day) and after a picnic area by the railway line I was in countryside.
Next came the most dangerous part of this entire walk. First I was on a road with speeding cars where I opted to walk along the edge of a field, but when I got to the end of it I had to climb a metal fence with spikes on top. That was doable but I continued onto a seriously fast road, had to cross the Volturno River on a narrow bridge (a possible walkway was overgrown and inaccessible) and then walk on this awful road with no shoulder, fast cars coming towards me and fast cars overtaking behind me. I was near the railway line and wanted to walk on it instead but I had to wait until I could get across the roadside ditch in between. Luckily I was able to cross the line and get to a quiet dirt road through farmland for the rest of the walk into Alife, coming into the town by a tall circular Roman mausoleum.
Alife had a lot of Roman stuff including an amphitheatre, some remains of a forum (under a building), cryptoporticos that were closed, a tower from the medieval castle and three of the medieval entrance gates but it lacked charm. 23 kms
22 March A pleasant interlude on a dirt farm track as I left Alife and then more roads, fairly quiet, passing through farmland as I crossed the Volturno valley towards the Matese mountains. The valley and lower hillsides were dotted with houses/farms and a couple of towns higher up. Lots of dogs. I approached Auduni on a cobbled street 
and the cafe had just opened. All these villages have a yellow church.
and the cafe had just opened. All these villages have a yellow church.
I went up through the village and had a very nice (uphill) walk on the slopes of Monte Matese through olive trees on terraces looking up at high peaks with a ruined castle on a lower peak in between. 
I descended through a village to Gioia Sannitica and had a snack in the piazza (had difficulty explaining that I wanted a slice of pizza like they were serving with drinks). By then the sky was black over the mountains; every day the weather deteriorates around lunchtime.
I descended through a village to Gioia Sannitica and had a snack in the piazza (had difficulty explaining that I wanted a slice of pizza like they were serving with drinks). By then the sky was black over the mountains; every day the weather deteriorates around lunchtime.
I had a pleasant walk on a little road through more olive groves on a terrace above the main road, reaching Annunziata with a bright yellow church 
and setting all the dogs barking, then more olives until I entered Faicchio at the top of the town. There was a solid square 12th c palazzo ducale in the town centre and the houses had a mountain backdrop, limestone cliffs, with a gravelly river below the town. The rain arrived soon after me.
It was freezing cold and the town was deserted apart from one bar where the residents were playing darts. My worst meal of the walk: I got slices of pizza and forgot to ask to have them warmed up. 19 kms
and setting all the dogs barking, then more olives until I entered Faicchio at the top of the town. There was a solid square 12th c palazzo ducale in the town centre and the houses had a mountain backdrop, limestone cliffs, with a gravelly river below the town. The rain arrived soon after me.
It was freezing cold and the town was deserted apart from one bar where the residents were playing darts. My worst meal of the walk: I got slices of pizza and forgot to ask to have them warmed up. 19 kms
23 March First landmark was a 1st to 3rd c Roman bridge with brickwork over the arches, over a little river flowing through a limestone gorge. I was soon able to leave the valley roads for a path on the slopes of Monte Acero above olive groves and vineyards, sometimes rocky and with good views over the valley and across to the mountains where I had been. 
Then a narrow road alongside a dry stream, a small village and more quiet roads passing wintry vines and olives. I walked along a ridge to another village and finished the section, surprisingly, with a walk in oak/beech forest on Montepugliano, undulating past scattered rocks, with a view over Telese Terme which looked unremarkable. I walked through the town until I found an unremarkable bar. At the far end of the town there was a small lake and a great bakery!
Then a narrow road alongside a dry stream, a small village and more quiet roads passing wintry vines and olives. I walked along a ridge to another village and finished the section, surprisingly, with a walk in oak/beech forest on Montepugliano, undulating past scattered rocks, with a view over Telese Terme which looked unremarkable. I walked through the town until I found an unremarkable bar. At the far end of the town there was a small lake and a great bakery!
I crossed a river with a view of my next mountain range, Taburno Camposauro, and ended up on a dirt road passing vineyards to the edge of Solopaca on the lower slopes, then walked steeply uphill through the town to my room next to one of the two churches with a high tower topped by an onion dome. There were a few big buildings with decorated facades. The town was basically two very long streets stretching across the mountain (conveniently enabling a one way system for cars so they don't have to slow down). 19 kms
24 March A short day without busy roads. I climbed above Solopaca on a road which became gravel then a forest track with great views over the Telesina valley and mountains on the far side (Appenines hidden in a band of cloud). Nice deciduous forest and sunny with a dry stream far below and the trail was easy to follow. At the top I reached a road and an icy wind; the road was so quiet that a dog was asleep in the middle of it.
I turned off the road onto a gravel track and passed a house where a man was offering me something but I could not work out what it was - a drink? a warm jacket? - I concluded it was a lift in his car even though he had assured me the route was walkable (my guidebook said the path would be overgrown). The road contoured a hillside passing close by ruins of a monastery and climbed again until I was on a saddle with good views back towards my start and down over the big valley holding several towns including Vitulano.
I began a steep descent on a stony limestone track below a limestone peak all the time with views into the valley, and passed a cave. I reached Vitulano and decided to stop here as planned even though it was early. The owner of my pilgrim accom had changed my booking and I ended up with a whole house although a long way from anywhere to eat. 
The town sprawled down the hillside interspersed with olive groves. 14 kms
The town sprawled down the hillside interspersed with olive groves. 14 kms
25 March Stunning blue sky and the area below Vitulano looked spectacular with tiers of hills while the mountains above the town stood out sharply against the sky.
I stopped at the edge of Foglianese for coffee (a local was unusually interested in what I was doing and inquired about every aspect) then climbed among olives before a long descent to the valley passing olives and vines with lovely views. One mountainside had a ruined monastery half way up. I crossed the Calore Irpino River and walked a long way on a flat bike path, several walkers, sometimes I could hear the river and after a short tunnel I had glimpses of Benevento.
I stopped at the edge of Foglianese for coffee (a local was unusually interested in what I was doing and inquired about every aspect) then climbed among olives before a long descent to the valley passing olives and vines with lovely views. One mountainside had a ruined monastery half way up. I crossed the Calore Irpino River and walked a long way on a flat bike path, several walkers, sometimes I could hear the river and after a short tunnel I had glimpses of Benevento.
Coming into Benevento was industrial until I reached a wide avenue and recrossed the river. It felt good to be in a city for a change. I went to look at the Roman theatre, very impressive brickwork, tiers of seats and passages and so hidden among houses it was hard to find. 
There were other ancient ruins squeezed between buildings. I passed the white decorated facade of the cathedral and went to Trajan's Arch, covered with pictorial panels.
Also visited Santa Sophia 8th c church, very pretty with cloister and museum of Roman statues,
and St Hilary 8th c church of which only the outer structure has survived. Lots of obelisks dotted about and many imposing buildings and a tall narrow castle. Good meal. 20 kms
There were other ancient ruins squeezed between buildings. I passed the white decorated facade of the cathedral and went to Trajan's Arch, covered with pictorial panels.
Also visited Santa Sophia 8th c church, very pretty with cloister and museum of Roman statues,
and St Hilary 8th c church of which only the outer structure has survived. Lots of obelisks dotted about and many imposing buildings and a tall narrow castle. Good meal. 20 kms
26 March The weather did not look good and it was very windy. Leaving Benevento (switching from the Via Appia to the Via Traiana) was a long haul past a lot of industrial areas. I met two American VF walkers doing Benevento to Bari. Eventually I was back in the countryside with hills to climb. A couple of hilltop villages to look at. Lots of dogs. At the first shed in a line of farmhouses I sheltered from a shower and then sheltered again for the next shower in the same line. The wind was wild. I got about a minute from that barn when I had to shelter again and I went in someone's garage; the owner turned up, chatted and fed her cats some pasta. 
More climbing to another village where I stopped in a shelter for lunch and to avoid more rain, but the wind blew the rain straight in.
More climbing to another village where I stopped in a shelter for lunch and to avoid more rain, but the wind blew the rain straight in.
After that there was a lot of nicer walking on dirt tracks through fields with views of the surrounding hills and I crossed paths with the Americans a lot. Passed ruins of a Roman bridge dwarfing a little stream. I could see Buonalbergo on a hilltop, 
sometimes in sunshine and as I got closer I saw a rainbow. In the town I stopped at the bottom to leave my stuff at the pilgrim hostel then went for a walk up the town's many stone steps to the top piazza and church.
The town had a couple of large terraces looking out over the hills. It was cold. 24 kms
sometimes in sunshine and as I got closer I saw a rainbow. In the town I stopped at the bottom to leave my stuff at the pilgrim hostel then went for a walk up the town's many stone steps to the top piazza and church.
The town had a couple of large terraces looking out over the hills. It was cold. 24 kms
27 March A long cold day in the Daunia mountains. It was freezing both inside and outside the house so I was pleased the bar by the upper church was open and warm. I went past a waterfall and on lanes to Casalbore (old church tower stood out on the horizon) and through the quiet town for a descent to 5th c Santa Maria dei Bossi square chapel on a hillside and a stone with a Roman inscription.
I had been advised to take the winter route today to avoid two river crossings but I decided to try the summer route as far as the first crossing for less road walking. I went through fields of wet grass and descended to the Ginestra River where fording wasn't difficult as there were helpful rocks. There was a remnant of a Roman bridge. After that I stayed on the winter route as the rain returned and the wind got worse. I undulated through a valley to a small village then had a steep climb on a gravel road up Monte San Felice to 800 metres alongside some happy wind turbines. From the top I came down to the compact town of Castelfranco in Miscano surrounded by hills in cloud. I was very cold so I had a long break in the bar.
I had been advised to take the winter route today to avoid two river crossings but I decided to try the summer route as far as the first crossing for less road walking. I went through fields of wet grass and descended to the Ginestra River where fording wasn't difficult as there were helpful rocks. There was a remnant of a Roman bridge. After that I stayed on the winter route as the rain returned and the wind got worse. I undulated through a valley to a small village then had a steep climb on a gravel road up Monte San Felice to 800 metres alongside some happy wind turbines. From the top I came down to the compact town of Castelfranco in Miscano surrounded by hills in cloud. I was very cold so I had a long break in the bar.
A descent passing barking dogs as the wind strengthened and another long climb up. Someone offered me a lift. The road degenerated into a mud path which became a river and I was almost in cloud. There were endless green hills all around and wind turbines. At a hilltop near the highest point a sign informed me I was out of Campania and into Puglia. I went a little higher to 900 metres and the light rain turned to light snow, but at least I was sheltered from the wind by hedges.
I had a view of hillside Faeto with a church at the top of the town and went to a warm bar there. It was too cold for sightseeing. Finally I crossed a narrow valley and climbed to Celle di San Vito in forest, a cute town of grey and white terraced houses that seemed cared for. It was lucky I had arranged to eat at my BnB; I didn't see another cafe, bar or restaurant. Or shop. Although there was a van with supplies doing the rounds. 29 kms
28 March It was so cold I wanted to get to Troia as quickly as possible. I climbed out of Celle in light rain and descended almost to the valley filled with green fields and looking quite endless, walking on a quiet sealed road. There were low rounded hills and few farmhouses. Then I turned off onto a gravel road between fields that was a mud bath in places. Lots of wind turbines. I arrived at Troia without having seen it from afar. I found a lively cafe and got warm.
It was a bit too cold for walking around the town but I had a look at the wonderful decorated facade and window of the 11th c cathedral and simple interior, 
and saw several other brick and stone 10th c churches. 16 kms
and saw several other brick and stone 10th c churches. 16 kms
29 March Still cold and windy with some sun. I descended from Troia 
then went up and over a ridge to the Tavoliere plains for a quiet day walking alongside green fields, low mountains to the south and wind farms in every direction. Only a few farmhouses but each had dogs, and numerous derelict abandoned buildings. Unlike my approach yesterday I could see Troia behind me on its hilltop for hours.
then went up and over a ridge to the Tavoliere plains for a quiet day walking alongside green fields, low mountains to the south and wind farms in every direction. Only a few farmhouses but each had dogs, and numerous derelict abandoned buildings. Unlike my approach yesterday I could see Troia behind me on its hilltop for hours.
I came to a crossroads after three hours and there was a small bar/shop which was well stocked and busy, made a good break. Then another couple of hours among the fields, barely a single car, more olive groves and a steep climb to Castellucio dei Sauri.
The town was a mix of old and new (due to a 1980 earthquake) and everywhere was closed; I went on to the pilgrim hostel, two beds and a classroom with a good outlook over the plains. I found close by the only cafe/restaurant in the town that was open. I had dinner there, risotto with mushrooms and veal with mushrooms. The church bells rang every 15 minutes all night. 24 kms
30 March The temperature was back to normal. I walked to Ordona without stopping, mostly on gravel roads or empty sealed roads beside fields of wheat, turnips and cabbages (even artichokes) and a few olives. 
Only one part was annoying with trucks going to and fro with gravel. No dogs! Ordona was on a very low hill so I could only see it ahead for the final kilometres. I stayed in a cute little house.
Only one part was annoying with trucks going to and fro with gravel. No dogs! Ordona was on a very low hill so I could only see it ahead for the final kilometres. I stayed in a cute little house.
I went to see the ruins of Herdonia which proved hard to find, on a knoll with no signage (the entrance described in my guide book was guarded by a dog) and I followed some worn tracks in a field to find the place: low walls showing outline of a building, wells and a bit of the city wall. 20kms
31 March A fairly uninteresting walk in light rain on minor roads and dirt tracks - some bits flooded so I had to detour into high wet grass and some stretches churned up by farm vehicles resulting in varying degrees of slipperiness - passing mainly wheat fields with almost no buildings. A few poppies. It was bleak under the grey sky. I passed olive groves approaching Stornarella, the town was run down and dirty but had an unusually smart cafe in the centre.
Then an hour on a dead straight flat bike path alongside a fast road to Stornara, olives on one side and fields on the other. It rained all afternoon but I managed to get out and see some of the huge murals the town is known for. 19 kms
1 April It was raining heavily in the morning and the street outside my room was completely flooded but the rain eased by the time I left. I walked along the road out of town then a gravel road (big puddles but all passable) for a while by olive trees and vines then back onto the road. 
The roadside litter was unbelievable. Nasty dogs, guarding what? Several kilometres out of Cerignola I could see the huge dome of the cathedral. I turned onto a dirt road between vast vineyards and olives, and at a junction the road had completely disappeared under water in both directions; fortunately I could get into the olive grove there and walk back to the road when it re-emerged.
The roadside litter was unbelievable. Nasty dogs, guarding what? Several kilometres out of Cerignola I could see the huge dome of the cathedral. I turned onto a dirt road between vast vineyards and olives, and at a junction the road had completely disappeared under water in both directions; fortunately I could get into the olive grove there and walk back to the road when it re-emerged.
Cerignola seemed fairly ordinary, run down apartment blocks then streets with shops. The former cathedral looked interesting with an old tower and several domes but was closed, and in the city centre was the huge monstrosity of the 19th c brick cathedral with enormous grey dome. Good pizza. 15 kms
2 April More rain. Wet roads as I walked out of Cerignola, little traffic and soon a quiet dirt road. Lots of surface water. Flat in every direction just vineyards, olives, fruit trees. I walked towards an iconic Italian view: church, farmhouses, cypress tree and vines but when I got there it was all derelict with barking dogs. 
After a while I had a horrible half hour on a highway; the road edges were flooded and the olive groves beside me were flooded and there were trucks.
After a while I had a horrible half hour on a highway; the road edges were flooded and the olive groves beside me were flooded and there were trucks.
Then some excitement when I came off the highway to see a Roman bridge (1-2nd c but reconstructed): there were several police cars on the road to the bridge, lights flashing; a first police car stopped me and said I couldn't walk here I must go back to my car (I couldn't so I went on) and a second policeman said I could walk through. The river had burst its banks and was flowing torrentially, all the surrounding area was dramatically flooded. There was a viewing tower giving a great view of all this - of course really meant for viewing the bridge - so I had lunch there while Canosa was engulfed in a black cloud that would be heading towards me.
The route into Canosa passed ruins of a couple of Roman above ground mausoleums and a Roman arch over the Via Traiana, then an industrial area and I climbed to the castello, only the perimeter walls remaining. I descended through the pretty old town to the Piazza Republica (big buildings with balconies) and had a nice room nearby. The town was set up for outdoor drinking - shame about the rain. 19 kms
I went on a comprehensive tour of the Roman town, frustrated that nothing was open but a lot was visible anyway. I saw the outside of some catacombs; the brick plinth from a temple to Jupiter; a bit of mosaic floor from the baths; a bit of the original wall; remains of a more recent 6th c basilica, archways intact, sharing the site with other church ruins; I went in the 11th c but reconstructed cathedral to see a carved pulpit and carved bishop's chair; outside the cathedral was an 11th c mausoleum built into the cathedral wall;
I walked across a park filled with Roman steles, fragments of columns and inscribed slabs; I looked at the pots and figurines, mostly 400 to 100BC in the museum (open!). I stopped for coffee at a bar and as soon as I walked in I regretted it because there was a very drunk pair inside but then they heard about my walk and insisted on paying for my coffee. Finally I walked out of the town to the site of a huge Roman temple to Minerva; it was fenced off and surrounded by olive trees but I could see five tall columns and lots of walls and floors.
I walked across a park filled with Roman steles, fragments of columns and inscribed slabs; I looked at the pots and figurines, mostly 400 to 100BC in the museum (open!). I stopped for coffee at a bar and as soon as I walked in I regretted it because there was a very drunk pair inside but then they heard about my walk and insisted on paying for my coffee. Finally I walked out of the town to the site of a huge Roman temple to Minerva; it was fenced off and surrounded by olive trees but I could see five tall columns and lots of walls and floors.
3 April Good Friday The rain has gone! I had a nice day walking between vast olive groves, some looking unkempt with uncut grass and unpruned trees, others neat and tidy, interspersed with smaller vineyards. The roads were still flooded in places which kept the car speeds down. The route was undulating and at the top of the second hill I could see still distant Andria ahead and to the north I saw the Adriatic Sea for the first time; that was cool. Also I could see the Gargano peninsula to the north which had been hidden in the bad weather. As I came into Andria via apartment blocks and an old entrance gate the city was even more closed up than normal afternoons and I got all the way to the centre seeing nothing open. 24 kms
Andria had a beautiful Romanesque duomo in pale stone 
and several churches in the same stone with carving above the entrance. The ornate church towers stood out over the old town. In the evening I watched the Good Friday procession: twelve small floats representing the stations of the cross, lots of locals walking in the procession, prayers, hymns and the local bishop carrying a jar with the relic from the duomo (a thorn from Jesus' crown of thorns).
The whole city was out on the streets.
and several churches in the same stone with carving above the entrance. The ornate church towers stood out over the old town. In the evening I watched the Good Friday procession: twelve small floats representing the stations of the cross, lots of locals walking in the procession, prayers, hymns and the local bishop carrying a jar with the relic from the duomo (a thorn from Jesus' crown of thorns).
The whole city was out on the streets.
5 April From Andria I walked out through the old part where some of the streets were like tunnels and went back to the vast olive groves climbing gradually towards Corato under a blue sky. There was still some flooding and a few olive groves were seriously under water.
Increasingly there were stone walls along the road. I could often hear but not see people working among the olives. After a few hours I arrived in Corato and had a coffee while places were open. In the centre I saw a simple square church squeezed between houses and the plain duomo (nice square tower with windows) on a busy street, hard to see properly.
I got to the railway line, the barriers went down but no train was in sight so I walked across.
Increasingly there were stone walls along the road. I could often hear but not see people working among the olives. After a few hours I arrived in Corato and had a coffee while places were open. In the centre I saw a simple square church squeezed between houses and the plain duomo (nice square tower with windows) on a busy street, hard to see properly.
I got to the railway line, the barriers went down but no train was in sight so I walked across.
Then more olives. Signs of recent pruning. I picked a blood orange (the citrus trees are long gone so I was surprised to see a single orange tree among the olives). I started seeing trulli style farm buildings in states of ruin and more stone walls and as I got higher and reached a flowering cherry orchard I had a good view of the Adriatic again. It seemed a long way into Ruvo di Puglia. As I went through the town I could see lots of people walking in the same direction; sure enough as I reached the Chiesa del Purgatorio a procession was about to begin and I got stuck there with a prime viewing position. This was along the lines of the Spanish processions: standard bearers, a big float carried by many people, brass band, followers in white or black robes. 27 kms
Ruvo was a nice town, all the buildings tastefully matching in pale stone, and a lot of old stuff including parts of the wall with round towers, churches with and without towers, a clocktower, palazzos. The co-cathedral had lovely layers of carving above the doorway, a separate square belltower with windows and a simple interior with a carved altar. Some earlier Roman foundations were visible. Then I watched the parade again, now with big candles and lights but in silence.
5 April As I was thinking of walking out of Ruvo a man in an office by the wall stopped me to point out the way, and just then I noticed a band was assembled so I asked him if a procession was starting. He locked my bag up in his office and decided that I would watch it. I went off for a coffee and came back, and he took me to watch the first part of the action at a square where a puppet dressed in black was strung up:
the procession arrived (a big float, band and standards) and stood by while two paper balloons were released then fireworks were lit and the puppet exploded. We next went to the main square (a lovely mix of architecture from old to new all in pale stone) and he sat me down on a balcony near a TV crew. There were two puppets strung up in the centre of the square and three little piles of fireworks. After 30 minutes the procession arrived and two balloons were released as before.
Then the fireworks were lit and in a few minutes both the puppets exploded. Such a strange thing.
the procession arrived (a big float, band and standards) and stood by while two paper balloons were released then fireworks were lit and the puppet exploded. We next went to the main square (a lovely mix of architecture from old to new all in pale stone) and he sat me down on a balcony near a TV crew. There were two puppets strung up in the centre of the square and three little piles of fireworks. After 30 minutes the procession arrived and two balloons were released as before.
Then the fireworks were lit and in a few minutes both the puppets exploded. Such a strange thing.
I set off for Bitonto and another day of huge olive groves but today there was nobody around. A man drove out of his way to tell me to be careful because I was in the countryside! As I had left later than usual it was much warmer from the start and there was no shade. I saw many of the trulli style stone huts among the olive trees. 
I was walking on the original Via Traiana route and passed the remains of an arch at a junction. I also passed an ancient menhir.
I was walking on the original Via Traiana route and passed the remains of an arch at a junction. I also passed an ancient menhir.
I came into Bitonto by a big cemetery with ornate above ground tombs, flocks of small green parakeets in the pine trees, and reached the old town with more streets that were like tunnels. The co-cathedral was amazing inside and outside: carving, an upper level of columns and windows, sculptures and it was possible to stand back and see it all.
I got to my hotel via the Porta Baresana, near a piazza by the ruins of the castle (moat and round tower), a church with carved facade, a set of delicate upstairs colonnades. Unusually, it was possible to sit there at a cafe and enjoy all this. I went in the co-cathedral and in the crypt I could see the remains of an earlier basilica including mosaic floors.
I got to my hotel via the Porta Baresana, near a piazza by the ruins of the castle (moat and round tower), a church with carved facade, a set of delicate upstairs colonnades. Unusually, it was possible to sit there at a cafe and enjoy all this. I went in the co-cathedral and in the crypt I could see the remains of an earlier basilica including mosaic floors.
Even on a beautiful day it was too cold in the evening to sit outside. 19 kms
6 April Down the main street in new Bitonto and through the station to reach the morning's olive groves. More of the parakeets. It was already hot. With the flooding receding I was able to walk through the olive groves sometimes. I passed a couple picking wild asparagus. I reached an urban area, walked through another station, and continued to Santo Spirito, and the Adriatic coast, arriving at a harbourside esplanade that was packed with people because it was Easter Monday. I celebrated with cherry pie.
The route was mostly along the esplanade to the official start of Bari. As a coastline it was well below average: rocks and stones covered in slime or seaweed, lots of litter, later on patches of shingle (I wouldn't quite call them beaches) and a little sand. Entering Bari I passed a small but packed shingle beach then passed a lighthouse and had to walk alongside the port on a dead straight road in full sun. For some reason I had picked a hotel near the station so I had to walk right across the city, very tedious. 24 kms
I went back to the old part, saw the grim walls of the castello and went to check out the basilica and cathedral. Strange to have basilica 
and cathedral
only a short distance apart, built at the same time (10th c) and quite similar, the basilica plainer outside. The basilica was built on the site of an earlier Roman church and post-Roman church and as in Bitonto it was possible to see remains of these in the crypt, but unlike in Bitonto I could make sense of the explanations. Ate dinner outside.
and cathedral
only a short distance apart, built at the same time (10th c) and quite similar, the basilica plainer outside. The basilica was built on the site of an earlier Roman church and post-Roman church and as in Bitonto it was possible to see remains of these in the crypt, but unlike in Bitonto I could make sense of the explanations. Ate dinner outside.
650 kms so far
7 April. I headed straight towards the esplanade, stopping for a coffee and pistachio croissant. This side of Bari was more enjoyable: long stretches of waterside walking with white rocks, blue sea (very clear water, shoals of tiny fish) until I reached the inevitable kilometres of road walking. Going off the tarmac meant walking through litter. I got to the seaside village San Giorgio with many fish shops but no cafes and went on to Torre a Mare where I went in a busy cafe but then saw much nicer ones in the centre near the town's fairly insignificant tower.
Then some busy roads and a long stretch on an inland farm road passing vegetable fields and a few olives before I came into Mola di Bari. Very large round piazza and some interesting baroque church towers also a sturdy castle wall. All the cafe action was at the servo on the edge of town. I had to walk by the road to Cozze but close to the sea and I was following four local women; near Cozze they stopped and waited for me then wanted to know all about what I was doing.
From Cozze the route changed completely. I was walking alongside rock platforms, stony beaches and shallow inlets with the water lapping gently. Some white herons. Soon the sealed path ended (that part was busy) and I was on the rocks or a dirt path going in and out of the inlets. I chose a secluded spot with prickly pear all around to camp by a bay with two grottoes (dripping inside). 
A cruise ship went by. Starry night, not cold and I could see lights on fishing boats. 31 kms
A cruise ship went by. Starry night, not cold and I could see lights on fishing boats. 31 kms
8 April I had a bit more by the rocky inlets until I had to go inland to get around a couple of swanky resorts. Silver lining: I came to a servo for breakfast. It wasn't far to San Giovanni where there was another of the small lookout towers on the rocks 
and a huge abbey.
and a huge abbey.
I went along the rocky shore 
and up onto low cliffs for the last stretch into Polignano a Mare, a great initial view of the town on a cliff with a tiny beach below but the place (known for its whitewashed houses) was packed with tourists and tourist things.
As soon as I walked out of the town on the esplanade and back onto the low cliffs there was almost nobody; I chatted with three English walkers doing a different trail. There was a small island offshore and another series of inlets, some with little sandy beaches. I passed a renovated lookout tower and more rocky inlets with grottoes.
and up onto low cliffs for the last stretch into Polignano a Mare, a great initial view of the town on a cliff with a tiny beach below but the place (known for its whitewashed houses) was packed with tourists and tourist things.
As soon as I walked out of the town on the esplanade and back onto the low cliffs there was almost nobody; I chatted with three English walkers doing a different trail. There was a small island offshore and another series of inlets, some with little sandy beaches. I passed a renovated lookout tower and more rocky inlets with grottoes.
Then a road walk into Monopoli. A much larger town also swarming with tourists. I walked around seeing many baroque church facades and saw the castle on the seafront. I went in the rather overwhelming baroque cathedral. I continued on the cliffs crossing inlets, most had a sandy beach and the path was a constant up and down. 
There were a few detours inland and I even saw a few sheep on one headland. It took a while to find somewhere to camp until I scored a grassy spot (covered with pink and yellow weeds) on an open area of clifftop which was perfect. 29 kms
There were a few detours inland and I even saw a few sheep on one headland. It took a while to find somewhere to camp until I scored a grassy spot (covered with pink and yellow weeds) on an open area of clifftop which was perfect. 29 kms
9 April I saw a great sunrise over the water from my tent. Passed a low tower. I was a bit more on the cliffs, some huge grottoes and sinkholes before Capollo (breakfast) then I was able to walk along a sandy beach most of the way to the ruins at Egnazia. The water was rougher, bashing against the rocks when they returned at Egnazia. The ruins were in two sections: the Roman temple ruins close to the water (very little left) 
and the ruins of a 6th c town across the road with square, bases of temple columns and masses of houses. I followed the coast to Savelletri, a small place with restaurants (10ama few tourists), small harbour, pretty church and pleasantly quiet.
and the ruins of a 6th c town across the road with square, bases of temple columns and masses of houses. I followed the coast to Savelletri, a small place with restaurants (10ama few tourists), small harbour, pretty church and pleasantly quiet.
Then I went I inland on a bike route passing olive groves with some very old trees that had massive trunks and were especially attractive when surrounded by poppies.
I returned to the coast near Torre Canni (tall lighthouse) and had a swordfish panino at a beachside cafe.
I returned to the coast near Torre Canni (tall lighthouse) and had a swordfish panino at a beachside cafe.
From there I was on the beach for the rest of the day. 
The first few hours was one continuous sweep of sand backed by very low dunes and many closed up lidos. I met a German woman walking from Otranto on the VF. At a small village where there was a low tower on the shore I went inland because I had been told there was a bar and I wanted more food for tonight but everything was closed. The beach became a series of sandy coves and when I saw an area of grass (again covered with pink weeds) above one beach I decided to stop. I could still see the lighthouse in Torre Canni and outline of Monopoli. 30 kms
The first few hours was one continuous sweep of sand backed by very low dunes and many closed up lidos. I met a German woman walking from Otranto on the VF. At a small village where there was a low tower on the shore I went inland because I had been told there was a bar and I wanted more food for tonight but everything was closed. The beach became a series of sandy coves and when I saw an area of grass (again covered with pink weeds) above one beach I decided to stop. I could still see the lighthouse in Torre Canni and outline of Monopoli. 30 kms
10 April After my campsite I came to two small curved beaches which, unusually, were clean, and more rocky spurs to Villanova di Ostuni with a small port. From there the coastline was increasingly impressive with the rocky inlets becoming more incised, 
more gouging at the base of the rock to form multiple sea caves, big sinkholes,
natural arches, loose chunks of rock. Unfortunately there was also a lot of seaweed which often covered all the sand on the beaches. Torre Pozzelle on a headland was a particularly nice tower because it looked as though the square covering had been partly peeled away to reveal a round tower underneath. I was always walking close to the cliff edge and often the rock looked precarious. I stopped for a paddle and the water was cool. Eventually the good stuff petered out and the low rock platforms returned. I got to Torre Santa Sabina, a pretty star shaped tower with a town around it; I had an octopus panino and froze in the cold wind. Then a lucky break: the shop was open in the afternoon so I could buy food for tonight.
more gouging at the base of the rock to form multiple sea caves, big sinkholes,
natural arches, loose chunks of rock. Unfortunately there was also a lot of seaweed which often covered all the sand on the beaches. Torre Pozzelle on a headland was a particularly nice tower because it looked as though the square covering had been partly peeled away to reveal a round tower underneath. I was always walking close to the cliff edge and often the rock looked precarious. I stopped for a paddle and the water was cool. Eventually the good stuff petered out and the low rock platforms returned. I got to Torre Santa Sabina, a pretty star shaped tower with a town around it; I had an octopus panino and froze in the cold wind. Then a lucky break: the shop was open in the afternoon so I could buy food for tonight.
The route returned to the beach, now sandy, and then followed a dirt path which was soon flooded, so flooded that it was impossible to see a path under what looked like a lake. I waded knee deep through the lake for 100 metres until the path returned but it continued to be intermittently flooded. The path was parallel with a long sandy beach, appearance spoilt by an abundance of litter. After a while I could see Torre Guaceto in the distance on a headland.
I turned off this path for a stint on a bike path parallel with a busy highway and alongside an area of swamp filled with reeds. It was time to stop walking but I needed to get away from the noisy road to camp. I walked on a slip road, crossed the highway on a bridge and at sunset I got back to the coast. The beach was full of huge rocks and there was nowhere down there to camp. I settled on a large area of bumpy grass above the beach with some houses, closed lidos and ruins nearby. 35 kms
11 April When I got up I was in a sea fog, I could only dimly see the beach and some fishing boats. I walked along the road in fog (the beach wasn't walkable and anyway it was just a very long rubbish dump) to Torre de la Testa atmospherically placed on a headland. 
A bit more coast where I was on cliff tops and when the fog lifted I could see Brindisi in the distance around the coast. I decided to take a direct road into the city as I was still tired from yesterday and it was ok, also I was pleased to find a servo for breakfast (the servo cafes in Italy have all been nice).
A bit more coast where I was on cliff tops and when the fog lifted I could see Brindisi in the distance around the coast. I decided to take a direct road into the city as I was still tired from yesterday and it was ok, also I was pleased to find a servo for breakfast (the servo cafes in Italy have all been nice).
I walked through Brindisi suburbs to the wharf and took a ferry (the official route) across to the city centre, seeing the imposing castle. Then I went along the esplanade to the Roman column at the top of a flight of steps which is at the end of the Via Traiana from Benevento - although this wasn't the original purpose of the column (or the second column which was moved to Lecce in the 1600s). 
(I took the pic when I returned to Brindisi.) Went in the cathedral but it was much nicer on the outside.
I liked the palm trees lining the streets. Lots of old churches here, saving my inspections until I return. (I was a day early in Brindisi which gave me a problem I solved by catching the bus to Torchiarolo, staying there and walking the next stage in reverse, back to Brindisi; the buses don't run on Sunday to get me back to Brindisi for my booking if I were to walk from Brindisi to Torchiarolo.) 15 kms
(I took the pic when I returned to Brindisi.) Went in the cathedral but it was much nicer on the outside.
I liked the palm trees lining the streets. Lots of old churches here, saving my inspections until I return. (I was a day early in Brindisi which gave me a problem I solved by catching the bus to Torchiarolo, staying there and walking the next stage in reverse, back to Brindisi; the buses don't run on Sunday to get me back to Brindisi for my booking if I were to walk from Brindisi to Torchiarolo.) 15 kms
Torchiarolo had a different look: lots of outdoor cafes and colourful houses. No tourists. Spaghetti carbonara di pesce and frittura mista for dinner.
12 April I left Torchiarolo in fog which soon lifted and I had a peaceful walk on narrow lanes. Passed Valesio's ruins of Messapian (pre Roman) baths, very low key, and after more countryside I had the best part of the day: a few minutes in holm oak/elm woods. This was followed by a stretch alongside a water channel on a path that had been hacked through a field of thistles and nettles followed by another overgrown path passing an abandoned vineyard. The rest of the walk was on gravel and sealed roads through farming country: vegetables, olives, vines and all flat. Poppies. It was overcast and muggy and a bit dull.
It wasn't a pleasant approach into Brindisi via derelict suburbs, until a fragment of the city wall appeared and I entered through the Porta di Lecce, reaching the city centre. 25 kms
13 April Getting back to Torchiarolo was harder: I got a train to San Pietro Vernotico and waited for the bus to Torchiarolo but it didn't come. I went into a bar to ask them to call me a taxi and a woman at the bar offered to take me. By absolute chance she drove right by where I had stayed.
From Torchiarolo, now on the route of the Via Traiana Calabra, I walked along lanes and dirt roads and I again met an Italian walker I had met yesterday (when I was going the other way and wasn't carrying my pack) and with great difficulty I explained what I was doing. He had walked a lot of the VF in Italy (and was now walking from Brindisi to Leuca on the Via del Salento). We had stayed in many of the same places so we could compare notes. We walked together to Surbo into a devastating headwind; it was hard work also having to talk Italian the whole time. The Norman abbey at 7 kilometres behind a high wall was unfortunately closed (through the gate it looked a gem) and the rest of the time we were on roads beside wheat fields and olive groves, but these trees were diseased and had been left wild. In Surbo we found a bar that was open, although it closed almost immediately we had ordered. The centre of Surbo was nice with a piazza by a baroque church in Lecce stone.
The wind continued to be awful as we walked along dull roads to Lecce and I turned towards the centre. Soon I could see what is special about this city: a mass of baroque buildings made from a yellowish stone and some real extravaganzas. I was worn out. 25 kms
I went in the duomo, facade with sculptures in local style, inside cream walls with lots of gold and paintings on the ceiling, interesting crypt with places you could look right down to the foundations. (It looked beautiful illuminated in the dark.) Also went in art gallery and smaller Santa Chiara church. There was an interesting building around every corner. Even a Roman amphitheatre in a hollow in the city centre, a Roman theatre and the second Roman column from the Via Traiana in Brindisi. Ate my firstpasticciotto. 
14 April Rest day in Lecce. I visited several churches with cluttered baroque facades: San Matteo on a small scale, 
Santa Croce quite berserk with sculptures outside and inside,
a church every few streets. Went in a museum with Messapian and Roman artefacts retrieved from sunken ships along the Salento coast.
Santa Croce quite berserk with sculptures outside and inside,
a church every few streets. Went in a museum with Messapian and Roman artefacts retrieved from sunken ships along the Salento coast.
15 April I walked out of Lecce and soon had quite a surprise: I saw more walkers with packs in the first hour from Lecce than I saw between Rome and Lecce. I found the talking easier after my long day of practice two days ago. The weather was overcast and muggy. I stopped for coffee in Merine opposite a plain church in Lecce stone then walked on a quiet road by fields to Acaya seeing lots of the local flat topped casedde stone huts in the fields. Acaya was a small place, a fortified village with an entrance gate and castle and lots of cafes.
There I went off the VF for the Cammino del Salento (which is the walk all the others were doing) to return to the coast. It was a nice walk by fields and unused land until I hit the water near a tower Torre Specchia Ruggeri. Then I was on low cliffs and walking on the sand. There were many natural arches (all low), sea stacks and rocks out to sea, gouged sea caves. I followed other walkers into La Foca and had a puff pastry cheese rustico for lunch. I bought food at a little supermarket and the man working there asked me how old I was before complimenting me on my walk.
The coastline became more impressive with higher cliffs and bigger caves and a path closer to the edge. Past little La Roca was an area full of visitors with cliff top Messapian ruins (low walls) and tower remains on an island then a bay of turquoise water with a cave called La Grotta Poesia. 
I walked through La Torre dell'Orso and by a long sandy beach where they were laying a boardwalk and into pine forest. I got to more cliffs and wanted to camp where there were twin rocks called Le Due Sorelle but there were lots of people around.
I went a bit further and found a good spot on a cliff above a rock platform.
I thought the weather was improving but it started raining. 33 kms
I walked through La Torre dell'Orso and by a long sandy beach where they were laying a boardwalk and into pine forest. I got to more cliffs and wanted to camp where there were twin rocks called Le Due Sorelle but there were lots of people around.
I went a bit further and found a good spot on a cliff above a rock platform.
I thought the weather was improving but it started raining. 33 kms
16 April Rained all night then the day looked sunny but became muggy again Nearby was a stretch of yellowish cliffs, grottoes and tall sea stacks
then Sant'Andrea where everywhere was closed, as was the case until Otranto (18 kms). The beach there was completely covered by seaweed and the water was full of it too which seriously detracted from the lovely coastline. The impressive cliffs and sea stacks continued then the route went inland through woods with visits to a couple of sandy coves. I came to some long sandy beaches backed by pine forest, some road walking, some precarious cliff top tracks, a long road by wheat fields and olives. The first view of Otranto was nice: a white beach on the way into town, old town on a hill and turquoise water. Very windy.
then Sant'Andrea where everywhere was closed, as was the case until Otranto (18 kms). The beach there was completely covered by seaweed and the water was full of it too which seriously detracted from the lovely coastline. The impressive cliffs and sea stacks continued then the route went inland through woods with visits to a couple of sandy coves. I came to some long sandy beaches backed by pine forest, some road walking, some precarious cliff top tracks, a long road by wheat fields and olives. The first view of Otranto was nice: a white beach on the way into town, old town on a hill and turquoise water. Very windy.
I went straight through the city wall into the old town past the large castle and up to little San Pietro basilica - which was just closing for lunch so I could only briefly peer inside at the frescoes. The cathedral was already closed. I had no choice but to stay until places reopened. So I had an octopus sandwich for lunch.
I went in the cathedral to see the 11th c mosaic floor which takes up the entire cathedral floor, 
and the crypt with some frescoes and the hundreds of skulls (relics) behind the altar. I went back to byzantine San Pietro to look at the Greek frescoes properly.
and the crypt with some frescoes and the hundreds of skulls (relics) behind the altar. I went back to byzantine San Pietro to look at the Greek frescoes properly.
I left Otranto returning to the VF and went onto the cliffs passing a tower on a hill with a good sea view, the water was quite rough. I went into pine forest, returned for a last view of the sea, had to climb a fence and followed a track to a small lake in a red bauxite hollow. After that I was back on farm roads and looking for somewhere to camp - one secluded place was all thistles, another had dogs nearby and I finally found a fallow field behind a hedge without thistles. 26 kms
17 April Sunny but windy. My back had completely seized up so I was glad I had several towns to stop in. I was on a slight plateau and I could see the sea (and tower ruins) as I walked on dirt roads between fields, lots of stone walls, passing an abandoned masseria and then several modern ones, and a bit of woodland. I came into Uggiano la Chiesa and had breakfast. The church in the centre was disproportionately large.
I passed a low menhir near the town and walked along a narrow road to Cocumola which was a quiet small town with a piazza surrounded by brown buildings, a much taller menhir on the edge of the town. Then more peaceful roads passing olives and vines to Vitigliano; the greengrocer was touring the town blaring his wares, something I hadn't heard/seen since Celle. I had lunch in the shady park and went on to Vignacastrisi climbing a little. It was increasingly windy but luckily a tailwind. Vignacastrisi had a huge rectangular church, again looked too big. 18 kms
I passed a low menhir near the town and walked along a narrow road to Cocumola which was a quiet small town with a piazza surrounded by brown buildings, a much taller menhir on the edge of the town. Then more peaceful roads passing olives and vines to Vitigliano; the greengrocer was touring the town blaring his wares, something I hadn't heard/seen since Celle. I had lunch in the shady park and went on to Vignacastrisi climbing a little. It was increasingly windy but luckily a tailwind. Vignacastrisi had a huge rectangular church, again looked too big. 18 kms
18 April The wind was still crazy in the morning. I had a great breakfast at the agriturismo: omelette, fresh tomatoes, bocconcini, muffin. I walked along a bike track between olives to Marittima where I met a few people from a group of 31 Poles walking from Lecce to Leuca. The route went on a road that was converted into a bike trail between stone walls guarding olive groves (lots of grass cutting happening today) and then became single track, rocky or red earth, at the edge of a plateau only a few hundred metres from the coast with excellent sea views beyond the sloping hillside and views northward to various town filled bays.
Then more of the narrow roads further inland and I passed a couple of derelict churches prior to entering Tricase, a big town. There was a climb to the town piazza and reaching it was a shock: huge austere church, one palazzo the length of the piazza, baroque Chiesa Di San Domenico painted pink 
and a run down palazzo with ornate balcony. The rest was quite dull apart from a remaining 1400s castle wall on the outskirts. Very soon another town, Tiggiano, with a Lecce stone church then a mix of crop fields and newish houses to Corsano on a slight hill. 20 kms
and a run down palazzo with ornate balcony. The rest was quite dull apart from a remaining 1400s castle wall on the outskirts. Very soon another town, Tiggiano, with a Lecce stone church then a mix of crop fields and newish houses to Corsano on a slight hill. 20 kms
19 April A beautiful still day. I walked through Corsano and out among the fields on a narrow road between stone walls passing casedde and ruined farmhouses. Poppies. Olives. I climbed to Gagliano del Capo at the top of a hill and stopped by the imposing plain church for coffee. 
Just before the town I could see the sea on the horizon. The barman congratulated me when I got my stamp and on the way through town a man stopped me to remind me to look for the change in colour between the two seas when I get to Leuca. There was a funfair by a convent on the edge of the town and a band playing (feast day of another St Francis).
Just before the town I could see the sea on the horizon. The barman congratulated me when I got my stamp and on the way through town a man stopped me to remind me to look for the change in colour between the two seas when I get to Leuca. There was a funfair by a convent on the edge of the town and a band playing (feast day of another St Francis).
Fields, olives, figs, poppies, artichokes, wild sweet pea, stone casedde along the final roads. After a while I saw the sea and then there were houses and I went straight towards the tall white lighthouse. I could gradually see Santa Maria de Leuca town on the bay and first I came to the basilica/sanctuary Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae complex on a large square, the lighthouse beyond. 
I went in the church and I got my last stamp but no Testimonium on a Sunday (one of the suore wrote it out for me the next day). I couldn't see the distinction between the Ionian and Adriatic seas but I thought I could discern the coastline of Greece.
I went in the church and I got my last stamp but no Testimonium on a Sunday (one of the suore wrote it out for me the next day). I couldn't see the distinction between the Ionian and Adriatic seas but I thought I could discern the coastline of Greece.
All that remained was to walk down a lot of steps and along the palm lined esplanade to my hotel in the town of white buildings. Leuca was a resort town without beaches but a large marina, plenty of restaurants on the water and lots of people. 15 kms
Later I went out for lunch and overheard something that made me realise I hadn't yet been to the southernmost point on the heel. So off I walked another kilometre to Punta Ristola. I went out onto the cliff tops and saw grottoes below with clear turquoise water. 
Total 952 kms; elevation gain 14153 m; 42 days walking plus 1 rest day
