More Oregon hikes

Cascade Lakes Loop

I had unfinished business with the PCT at the section I had needed to leave at Irish Lake when fire came close to the trail. I planned a return here to do a round trip hike between Elk Lake and Irish Lake, using various trails, which would pass many of the lakes in the area (I love a mountain lake) and also follow the PCT stretch I had missed. This looked on the map like three connected loops and enabled me to walk the PCT in my correct direction while not having to out and back the trail.

16 September Trail angel Michael took me from Bend to Elk Lake and I walked along the road for 2 miles to the Six Lakes trailhead. There I went into lodgepole pine forest and had a long gradual climb while the weather tried to decide if it would rain or not. Answer: it rained lightly for a few minutes, long enough for me to put on my rain jacket then immediately have to take it off. My first lake was Blow Lake, lots of logs accumulated at one side, next Doris Lake. I arrived at Ledge Lake through a meadow and went back into forest to descend to Goose Lake, full of reeds. Now on the Mink Lake trail I continued to Porky Lake and Mink Lake, these lakes were bigger with trees down to the water's edge and I skirted high above them (I glimpsed a snow specked mountain emerging from a cloud) before descending on the PCT to South Lake. I was very pleased to see I could camp here close to the water and sit in the afternoon sunshine. It was a nice still evening but so much colder than when I was here in August. Ducks. 13 miles/21 kms

17 September Lakes, lakes, lakes. It was raining lightly when I got up but stopped. I walked past Desane Lake and saw my only hiker for the day. Passed Puppy Lake. I went onto the Snowshoe Lakes trail and soon came to Upper Snowshoe Lake then Snowshoe Lake with small rockfalls and lots of scattered boulders to sit on.

At Winopee Lake, very shrunken in a large meadow, I went onto the Winopee trail and later another large meadow with Muskrat Lake and a ruined log cabin that I couldn't access unless I waded a creek. I got to Cultus Lake, the biggest lake by far, with a long sandy beach and picnic tables and toilets. It was hard to get water and this was my introduction to a problem I had not anticipated: the lakes are low after a dry summer and to access the water you need to walk over soft sucky mud, there the water is shallow and as soon as you start to collect it the sand/soil under the water gets stirred up and rises to the surface. I had to collect tiny amounts of water at a time.

I continued on the Many Lakes trail climbing to cross a ridge with granite rock gardens, rock falls and lots of boulders and reaching Merle Lake where I sat in the sun.

Lots of ponds, and lake after lake: Kinnikinnic Lake with several peninsulas jutting into the centre (a feature of many of the lakes), Phantom Lake, Kershaw Lake with masses of logs at the water's edge.

It suddenly started raining quite seriously. I passed Middle Hanks Lake and East Hanks Lake to get to the Many Lakes trailhead where I turned onto the dirt road that we had taken to leave Irish Lake on the day of the fire (passing large Taylor Lake which I didn't notice last time).

In a couple of miles I was back at Irish Lake. I was surprised to see I was in an area that had been very recently burnt, as I didn't remember this from before. When I got to the Irish Lake PCT trailhead there were also signs of a very recent fire. I tried to get water at Irish Lake and stepped into soft mud up to my ankles, shame about my new socks. It was still raining. I walked on (now on the section of PCT I had missed) passing a few ponds until I got to Brahma Lake. I saw a tent site near the water. As soon as my tent was up the rain stopped and the sun came out. Water collection was still tricky and there were lots of deep footprints in the mud by the lake. 19 miles/30 kms

18 September Blue sky when I woke up but I was in shade so I was cold. I walked a mile to Jezebel Lake and sat for a long time drying out my tent (condensation not rain).

I was in quiet pine forest. Stormy Lake below craggy rocks was next after a forest climb.

Blaze Lake on a crest followed by its twin. A little pond with the red leafed bushes nicely reflected. I heard a noise and saw several elk stampeding uphill onto a ridge; they stopped there and I got a good look at them. The path undulated nicely through the pines, as usual a mess of fallen trees everywhere with a few uncleared logs across the trail, passing several black ponds.

Then a few miles without lakes until I reached Desane Lake, completing the lower loop of my route.

Just a short walk past South Lake at Mac Lake the tent sites looked great, on pine needles, close to the water and sheltered by trees. A rock seat with a view of the lake. Reasonable water collection from rocks. One of the best PCT campsites I've seen. So my walking was done by 3pm. 9 miles/14 kms

19 September The lake looked great in the morning with mist blowing across it and the sun was shining. I took a small detour to Cliff Lake passing big rock piles (where I closed the second loop) and chatted with some hikers there.

Mostly I was in forest, pine and fir, and I crossed a couple of large meadows, one was full of ponds. More rock gardens. At Island Lake I went into a burnt area which continued to Dumbbell Lake (one shore was always unburnt). The last ponds had good reflections from the right angle. I saw 3 deer cross the trail then stop to watch me pass. 

A few miles from the forest edge I came to a flowing creek which was great but a bit late for my water needs. As the PCT left the forest I suddenly had a wonderful view across to Mt Bachelor and craggy Broken Top,

and then to South Sister. I could just see Elk Lake. I descended to the road and then the lake resort (to finish the top loop and the missing PCT stretch) where a big disappointment awaited me: the ice cream hut was closed! This had been the best ice cream of my trip and I had been looking forward to it all the time I was walking. I had to settle for coffee. The resort was a lot less busy than my previous visit even though it was by coincidence also a Saturday last time. I camped at the resort. 11 miles/18 kms

Total 52 miles/83 kms

Timberline Trail

I had enjoyed my visit to Mt Hood on the PCT so much that I returned to walk the Timberline Trail loop around the mountain. I went anti clockwise so that the few bits that coincided with the PCT would be slightly different and I expected much colder weather.

21 September I set out from Timberline Lodge on the southeast side of the mountain with a short stretch on the PCT descending on sandy trail to White River. I was immediately meeting a lot of hikers on the trail. It was hot. After my descent I began a long steep climb - initially I went the wrong way because there was a landslide on the trail which meant that I didn't see a path there and I went around in a circle instead. The trail climbed in forest and came out onto Hood Meadows, an extensive ski area with several chairlifts. Good views of Mt Hood and I liked the autumn colours.

The trail crossed several creeks, some glacial and milky and churning away requiring rock hopping, others were little clear trickles, sometimes more like waterfalls, and generally easy to step over. 

I was climbing steadily but descended to cross glacial Newton Creek. Here I had some trouble. I was coming down to the creek when there was a landslip obliterating the trail and I couldn't go on so I turned back and descended on what I thought was a used trail, but at the end I was still too high above the river to cross. As I tried to reach the river bank a boulder was blocking my way so I went above it but couldn't get down on the other side without taking off my pack and lowering it. The surface was sand and rocks and very loose, with nothing I could safely grip onto. When I had got around the boulder I was confronted by unstable slopes and I somehow got stuck being unable to move forward or back. The weight and bulk of my pack was the real problem. There were hikers on the far bank and they were watching me and gesticulating where I should go, which I knew but I couldn't move. I yelled and eventually they came to the river bank but the river was extremely loud so they had no chance of hearing me. At the same time a trail runner was coming up to where I was and she helped me; I took off my pack, passed it to her and was able to walk across the slippery slope easily. All was good. Wading across the milky thundering creek was nothing after that.

More climbing in forest on the eastern side of the mountain until I was close to the tree line. I had been intending to camp a bit higher but it was very windy; I put up my tent at the edge of the forest, watched it blowing around like crazy, took it down and went a little way back down and found a spot among low trees, just below 2000 m. A deer came by and paused to check me out.

I had a nice view of Mt Hood. 11 miles/17 kms

22 September The valley to the west was full of clouds, only Mt Jefferson and later Broken Top poking above them. I continued uphill, it was cold, and Mt Hood was lit up in the sunshine. I found the uphill hard (I was dehydrated) until I came to a creek with water and then a second one where collection was easy. The trail was convoluted having to get onto a high ridge (Gnarl Ridge) and very rocky; when the descent started it was a nice change.

The going was still slow because I was on loose dirt.and rocks but as I came around the mountain I had a wonderful view of Mt Rainier and Mt Adams - Rainier looked smaller because it was much more distant.

A bit further along the trail I could see Mt St Helens. I descended below the tree line to Cloud Cap picnic ground.

On the north side of the mountain the trail was completely different: gone were the barren sandy slopes and I was back in forest crossing mostly clear creeks, some like Coe Creek with impressive waterfalls.

The only glacial one was Eliot Creek, supposedly the hardest to cross. I had no problem wading after selecting a crossing point carefully; on the far bank there was a rope to help get up the sandy loose slope and it was tricky. I was soon in an extensive burnt area. I would go in and out of burn scar and it was notable for the enormous number of logs across the trail, many very hard to get around/over/under. Progress was slow. The only other awkward water crossing was a clear creek with several channels which I managed to rock hop but then I couldn't see where the trail continued. I went through an overgrown tunnel of foliage on boulders and I think this was the actual trail. I was keen to get to Elk Cove; it was a meadow still surrounded by burnt trees but had a beautiful view of the mountain and red/golden vegetation.

To the north I was still seeing the big volcanoes and the green Columbia River valley in the foreground.

I was soon out of the next burn and had more creeks to cross, the glacial ones flowing fast. I passed a lot of hikers towards the end of the day. I descended low to Cairn Basin and at the far edge was a lovely golden meadow below a huge rock fall and little ponds nearby.

I found a secluded tent site just past there with a view of the rock fall. It got very cold very quickly. 14 miles/22 kms

23 September Frost! I descended on the rooty track to a lower ridge where I had wonderful views up to the summit, seeing the mountain's distinctive horn for the first time, crossing numerous tiny springs and there was a bit of mud. A lot more descending into spruce forest until I reached two Muddy Fork glacial creek branches, crossing higher up than on the PCT. After that the trail was sketchy for a while: lots of short steep bits on loose ground and sharp drop offs caused by landslips, also lots of overhead blowdowns to go under.

I could clearly see the ridge I walked along earlier and appreciated what a long way I had needed to go in and out of spurs to be able to cross Muddy Fork creek. Then a cruisy descent to Ramona Falls, as impressive as last time.

Now I'm on the west flank. The next part was on the PCT. The Sandy River was easy to cross this time as most of the branches were dry.

I began the long climb back up on the other side and reached viewpoints I remembered well with the sight of waterfalls pouring off the mountain and massive sandy slopes. I thought there was less snow on top. It was truly amazing to see such a complex mountain face: glaciers, rock pinnacles, pine trees growing out of sand, sheer granite cliffs, weathered sand slopes and scree, waterfalls, creeks, smashed boulders. In the other direction sat Mt St Helens almost free of cloud.

Soon I turned off the PCT/Timberline trail onto the Paradise Park loop. This was great: at the tree line so mainly grassy with autumnal bushes, a few fir trees and fabulous views of Mt Hood and over tiers of mountains. Not to forget Mt Jefferson. It was very dry and sandy and I was concerned about water but I came to a series of babbling creeks. I reached a spot with a tent site next to a creek with little falls and a view directly up the mountain so although it was early to stop I decided to camp there. There were even flat rocks to sit on. 12 miles/19 kms

24 September I finished the Paradise Park trail with more autumn colours

and rejoined the PCT descending to the Zigzag River (a rock hop).

It was a solid climb back up, now on the south side of the mountain, with views south over all of Oregon's mountains, of course Mt Jefferson looming above everything.

I was able to get off the PCT for the last half mile and cross ski trails/mountain bike trails back to the lodge. It was a greyish day but the views from the lodge were clearer than last time because there was no smoke. The waiter in the restaurant recognised me when I showed up for breakfast. 6 miles/10 kms

Total: 43 miles/69 kms

Pacific Crest Trail Part 2: Washington

23 August I went by bus back to Cascade Locks, had a coffee and rejoined the PCT, first of all crossing the Columbia River on the Bridge of the Gods; there was no footpath and the bridge roadway was all iron latticework with a good view down to the river. On the far side a small sign welcomed me to Washington. The trail went into a mixed forest undulating for a while until I passed a small lake and the real business of climbing began. The uphill was continuous but not especially hard and not especially interesting apart from a few rock falls where the rocks were covered in moss. There were a few small springs. Another garter snake. Until mid afternoon the weather was overcast then it cleared. I managed to make it a short day, stopping at a tent site in a pretty niche at the top of the climb with a view of Mt Adams. 12 miles/19 kms

24 August Windy and sunny. I began with a ridge walk, views of Mt Adams and later Mt St Helens with its iconic crater rim, and from the other side of the ridge I could still see Mt Hood. I passed below granite bluffs and returned into the forest for a long descent to Rock Creek; I had been very dehydrated and this was my first water of the day after 8 miles (apart from a trickle just before). There were lots of little water sources as I started climbing back up, then nothing. The forest under storey was really lush and bright green. I saw nobody all morning. At the top I had a few window views through the trees and soon was descending again. So far I am not loving Washington all that much with just going up and down in the forest.

Just before the final descent to Trout Creek there was a viewing point of the creek far below and forested mountains.

I reached the creek and some nice tent spots by the water. The creek was wide, filled with lots of smooth rocks, and an elaborate bridge. 5 more hikers arrived to camp. 19 miles/30 kms

25 August (Day 30) The chipmunks were busy chucking pine cones down from trees. I went on to Wind River, another pretty place with rock strewn water.

I crossed a road where a trail angel had left a box with apples and strawberries. Then on to Panther Creek where I intended to try a bit of a road short cut to avoid excessive pointless climbing in the forest, saving 4 miles. I'm not sure that this was any easier than the official route. Initially the road walking was nice, alongside the creek and passing little camping spots, but once the road began to climb it was relentless; there was plenty of shade and I could hear the creek far below but I found it hard work. When I reached the highlight, Panther Falls, I took the short trail downhill to a lookout: the main part of the falls emerged from the higher forest and the water fanned out over the rock face while a branch of the creek fed another waterfall at one side of the main falls.

After that the walking felt even harder as the road constantly climbed and I took frequent breaks. There were almost no vehicles. After a while I turned onto a really dusty gravel road. I thought I would never reach the trailhead where I would rejoin the PCT but after 12.5 miles spent climbing a vertical kilometre I made it, pleased to see a toilet and a trash can. As I was sitting there a ute pulled up and the people gave me 2 bottles of water and a bottle of gatorade, a lucky thing because the water sources for the next 6 miles were yucky. 

It was nice going back into the forest. Into the Indian Heaven wilderness. The trail climbed gradually (thankfully I didn't just go straight back down to sea level after all that work) and I was aiming for Sheep Lake; when I got there all the tent sites were taken. I went on, crossing a tiny meadow, and just before Green Lake I spotted a tent site in the trees. There wasn't any camping at the lake, which was in a lovely setting but covered in reedy grass. 20 miles/32 kms

26 August I had breakfast by the lake. I came up to a ridge where a short side trip gave a wonderful view of Mt St Helens and cloud hanging in the valley.

In the other direction tiers of hazy mountains and - still - Mt Hood. I came down to Blue Lake which really was blue, with a sheer cliff behind and reasonable water, very windy.

Next I came to Bear Lake, also blue with little beaches, where I had to get water for the next 10 miles; the water was scummy on top and not ideal. The trail passed several more lakes and there were others that were signed but out of sight. It seemed a little cooler than before. I was always in forest and the high point of the day came when I rounded a bend and was confronted by a snow capped mountain right in front of my face.

I let out a Whoa! and a hiker standing there said That was exactly my reaction. Mt Adams, and it was gone as quickly as it appeared. The forest was quiet and peaceful, the mountains always tantalisingly out of sight. I chatted with some hikers at a creek (one had been shocked by the Knife Edge in Goat Rocks that I would soon reach) and found myself a little forest alcove tent site for the night. A few drops of rain in the night. 20 miles/32 kms

27 August I packed up early and took the short detour to Steamboat Lake, pretty with a mountain on one side and cloud just lifting.

The rest of the morning was a big climb followed by a descent without seeing anything beyond the forest. I rushed along hoping to get a quick ride to Trout Lake for my resupply but when I got to the trailhead I tried for over an hour to hitch hike with no success while about 50 hikers dribbled in. In the end I got the organised shuttle into town. I spent more than usual on my resupply (lots of donuts and cookies which soon got smashed up) and went to the gas station cafe for a burger and huckleberry shake. There were dozens of PCT hikers swamping the town, including people I hadn't seen since Shelter Cove before the fire issue.

I took the afternoon shuttle back to the trailhead, into the Mt Adams wilderness and walked a couple of miles in the forest to a tent site by a babbling creek. 12 miles/19 kms

28 August Today was a big improvement. I hiked through an extensive burnt area with better views for the absence of foliage. I came across some ripe huckleberries. I got my first glimpses of Mt Rainier

standing much higher than the surrounding peaks, Mt St Helens also. The trail took me alongside Mt Adams starting on the south side

and following around to the north side staying close to the mountain. The north face had a huge glacier. It was lovely walking with lots of open meadows, big rocks that had come down from the mountain, young fir trees and the constant views of Mt Adams were superb.

There was a stretch across lava rocks just like near McKenzie Pass in Oregon except that the trail was sandy rather than small rocks. I came to the Adams River flowing milky white straight down from the glacier; it was churning away wildly and there were logs to help with crossing, I sidled across sitting on the logs.

The other creeks had bridges, one of which was broken into a V shape but usable and one creek became a waterfall below the trail. Eventually I was back in forest and descended a long way to a spring emerging from big heaps of lava rocks and flowing into little pools. It was a pretty spot with dispersed tent sites so I decided to stop there. I climbed the rocks for a view of Mt Adams.

The large number of hikers who had been at Trout Lake filed through. 18 miles/29 kms

29 August On my 34th day it rained. I got packed up as a light drizzle began and I stopped for breakfast when I found a dry log to sit on. The rain stopped then soon started again and was a bit heavier. I was in forest so it didn't matter much and the forest in mist was atmospheric. I passed several ponds, also atmospheric

and entered Goat Rocks wilderness. This is considered to be one of the best parts of the entire PCT. The trail was often flooded and I had no view whatsoever when I reached the higher points. After one rock flow I sheltered under a tree and waited for my view but all I got was the feint outline of lower ridges and they soon disappeared. I hung around because it looked like it was clearing up until it was too cold to stand still. I consoled myself with the last of my donut fragments. As I came down the rain stopped and the sun tried to come out. This section had at least 50 logs across the trail and was badly flooded; at least it wasn't raining.

That was supposed to be the end of the rain but light showers continued all afternoon. The cold temperature was a real shock after all the hot weather. More huckleberries. On the next climb I got some views of forested mountains, Walupt Lake, a little pond. Then a view of Nannie Ridge before the mist came down: grassy, boulders, sparse trees. Lots more fallen trees. I turned off for Sheep Lake to camp; many tents there already and I squeezed in near trees. I found that my sleeping bag was soaking wet. I ate a lot of wraps with nutella and got into bed in my rain gear. 20 miles/32 kms

30 August This was a pretty epic day. Everything was in mist when I woke up and I stayed in my tent to keep warm until the sun was out; even then I couldn't see the lake for mist. At 9am I walked a short while to a saddle - with a great view towards a granite topped mountain

- and I didn't feel right, I collapsed into the grass at the saddle. A hiker gave me some electrolyte powder and a trail runner gave me some hand warmers and I felt much better very soon. I think this was a mixture of the dramatic drop in temperature and not eating much yesterday. There was a view again of Mt Adams from the saddle.

I went on to Cispus pass. There were lots of hikers and trail runners about, being a sunny Sunday. Some told me it snowed last night while they were camped there. The scenery was a high craggy bare rock range (a light dusting of snow from yesterday) and creeks flowing down to a valley.

The trail contoured above the valley with increasingly lovely views of trees dotted around, creeks

and Mt Adams as I climbed gradually.

I could see Mt St Helens with a band of cloud across it.

I saw a turquoise glacial lake in a crater among completely barren mountains.

The climb became rockier and steeper and I rounded a bend to see Mt Rainier (4392 m) also with a band of cloud across it.

Continuing upwards the trail started to cross huge scree fields. I had to walk about 100 metres across a patch of snow and more scree to the junction with a PCT alternate. (The alternate was over more exposed terrain than the PCT and not suitable for horses - I couldn't imagine horses coping with the trail across the scree on the official trail either). I climbed steeply, more snow, on the alternate to a saddle (at 2333 m) below Old Snowy (true to its name there were lots of patches of snow on the mountainside)

and then embarked on a wonderful ridge walk for several miles. The first part was the renowned Knife Edge with a steep drop to each side (all scree) but it didn't feel unsafe.

The trail continued to be exposed on one side or the other or both as it undulated along with views of huge valleys below high mountain ranges.

A trail runner pointed out a mountain goat further along the ridge. Mt Rainier was always in sight.

Eventually the trail descended to one of the green valleys and crossed several creeks before going into forest. I remembered just in time to dry out my sleeping bag in the sun. I walked a couple of miles in the forest until I got to Lutz Lake, more of a pond really and not so special but I was tired so I put up my tent there. It got cold very soon after I arrived. Full moon. 14 miles/22 kms

31 August I got up at first light and as I walked on in the forest the mountains above me were shining in the fresh sunlight. After breakfast by a creek I had a stiff climb in forest then a recently burnt area then more forest to the best view yet of Mt Ranier, no cloud just miles of pine forested hills in the foreground.

I was on a ridge so I had continuing views until I found myself high above Shoe Lake, a horseshoe of sparkling water among meadows with a mountain backdrop.

I reached a high pass where I could see the path ahead etched into the mountainside. It looked so good and walking it was wonderful.

Then a long descent in forest. I stopped for lunch at Girelle Lake and it was nice until I got my fig biscuits out and some of the nasty aggressive birds started swooping on me. I went on down to the highway and walked the half mile to the Kracker Barrel shop at White Pass ski hill, did laundry, showered, ate a lot. I camped in a meadow behind the shop. 13 miles/21 kms

1 September I had breakfast at the shop (I have eaten so much food here) and returned to the trail. Many of the nobos I knew were hiking this section in the opposite direction (not sure why) and when I met Sponge and Jelly we had a long chat. Although the morning was all in the forest it was really lovely with many lakes, ponds and meadows, sometimes a lake or pond on each side of the trail at the same time. It had started out cloudy but the clouds went and it became hot. After all the lakes I had the Bumping River (what a great name since it really bumped along), churning away noisily as it flowed steeply downhill alongside the trail, then at the bottom it was totally calm and I waded across in my crocs.

I had a big climb (nice view over Buck Lake)

and all of a sudden I noticed mist blowing through the trees towards the trail. The air became cold. One minute sunshine, next minute I was in a cloud. At the top of the climb I walked along a ridge for 4 miles below granite bluffs, scattered small firs and meadows strewn with boulders; it was very beautiful walking there, sometimes the path was quite rough and crossed several rockfalls and landslides, just a shame to have no extended view. The huckleberry leaves are turning red for autumn. 

I wanted to get as far as possible today because there was bad weather coming tomorrow so I pushed on until I reached a trail junction with a tent space in the trees. I could hear strong winds all night but I was sheltered and warm. 23 miles/37 kms

2 September The weather seemed a bit clearer as I walked along to another pretty lake, Anderson Lake, and climbed back up to be below the bluffs. I could see the surrounding mountains now and back to the craggy peaks at Goat Rocks, especially as I descended to big Dewey Lake.

I am really liking Washington now. I had a cruisy finish to the hike coming past another impossibly pretty pond

and contouring around a deep gully to reach the highway. I hadn't seen many cars on that road as I walked towards it which had me slightly concerned because I needed to get a ride from there. Almost exactly as I reached the road it started raining and within a few minutes a car stopped for me; Debbie took me to Yakima an hour away and I checked into a hotel in the downtown. Very bad weather was forecast for the next several days. 6 miles/10 kms

3 September Rest day in Yakima

4 September Rest day in Yakima

5 September This wasn't a great day. Helen and Will, trail angels, took me back to the Chinook Pass trailhead. I thought I had sat out the bad weather (apparently I had missed the worst of it) but it was raining lightly when I set out and soon became worse. I went up to Sheep Lake and on to Sawtooth Gap passing lots of lookouts but visibility was zero. I was not enjoying this because of the rain and the flooded path and I could see that any tent site would be boggy but I continued on until I reached a ridge overlooking a ski resort. Here I assessed my options and as I sat there it started snowing; I was already very cold even before the snow so I reluctantly decided to turn back for Chinook Pass, having come 6 miles. I felt awful doing this and worse was meeting several nobo hikers on my way back who were persevering in the weather. As I crossed Sawtooth Gap it was snowing more heavily. In hindsight this was definitely the right decision.

At Chinook Pass I tried to hitchhike to White Pass where I knew I could camp and eat warm food and dry out but after an hour I had no success so I decided to try one of the short walks nearby and hopefully find somewhere sheltered to camp. By now it was no longer raining and I could see the mountains. I walked around Lake Tipsoo and onto the Naches Peak loop; this had lookouts towards Mt Rainier completely in cloud. No tent sites (because this was in the Rainier national park) so I returned to Dewey Lake on the PCT and camped near the lake on a wet patch of ground among trees. Then I found my sleeping bag was once again soaking wet. In the night I heard very loud animal noises. It didn't rain again. 15 miles/24 kms

6 September It was sunny when I got up. I walked back on the PCT and then the Naches Peak loop and when I got to the lookouts I finally had my views of Mt Rainier - it looked fantastic against the blue sky with so much snow and it was very close.

I especially liked seeing the snowy peak reflected in a pond. 

I got back to Lake Tipsoo parking lot and once more tried to hitchhike but failed, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I got chatting with some volunteer park rangers and one gave me a garbage bag which I could use to line my pack. I walked back to the main parking lot and there was trail magic! Hot dogs, drinks, muffins and they dried out my sleeping bag. I sat there for 2 hours. Lots of hikers showed up (including Flamingo who had turned back from Sheep Lake) and most of them had just returned to the trail after zeroing the weather. Meanwhile it had clouded over so I was lucky to get my earlier views.

I set out again on the PCT I'd abandoned yesterday. The sun came and went but there was little sign of rain. I had great views all the way as I went past Sheep Lake again, climbed to Sawtooth Gap with views of forested ranges, vast scree slopes, grassy meadows below.

I went along the ridge above the ski resort and passed the point where I had turned back. The ridge walking continued, grassy slopes on the mountainsides and granite bluffs above, intermittently I would cross from one side to the other and I could see endless mountains. A deer by the trail. I reached a burn scar near the trail and walked above a grassy bowl with a lake but also lots of burnt trees. It had become windy. I found a dry tent site at the edge of a meadow and beneath a scree covered mountainside (4 hikers there). Soon it was really cold. The wind was very strong and gusty all night and I had to redo my stakes at midnight. 15 miles/24 kms

7 September I woke to thick mist and it stayed like that as I contoured along a ridge in the burn scar. Sometimes I could see outlines of rock bluffs and scree slopes, pinnacles and rock ribs, but mostly just dead trees and grass. After many miles (the last mile had a lot of fallen logs over the trail) I arrived at living forest and I was back into Washington's green tunnel, still in mist but it didn't rain. There were a lot of big blowdowns, many requiring quite a detour to get around. At midday the sun came out, tentatively at first but as I reached huge Government Meadows with a public access log cabin there was some blue sky. I was surprised to find a family having a barbecue there - I thought I was in inaccessible wilderness but other day visitors showed up.

The sun didn't last but I had good views from the next ridge, first towards the west and then the east although there was still cloud cover eastwards. There were fewer blowdowns. The trail crossed a number of logging roads and another burnt area. I saw amazing fungi in all sorts of colours.

I only met 2 hikers all day and I had a chat with the second.

I found a small tent site on a ridge in the forest, having had to pass up others because the ground was too damp. The trees had a particularly good draping of green algae.

21 miles/34 kms

8 September Sun! Blue sky! Climbing up to a ridge I saw 2 elk disappearing into the forest, another crossed the trail and I glimpsed another in the forest. From the ridge I had amazing views: northwards over tiers of forested mountains to craggy mountain tops in the North Cascades,

southwest to Mt Rainier in all its glory once more.

I returned into forest but still had many window views before descending via several passes with more views. I stopped for early lunch at a big clearing; there was a creek a few hundred metres below the trail, my first water for 11 miles, but you would never have known it was there.

I climbed a little and had another sighting of Mt Rainier, then a longer climb to a ridge for incredible views including Rainier now with a small puffy cloud hiding the peak. Another view of the North Cascades.

The rest of the day the trail was up and down, a mile or 2 each time and steeper than before. Again I had seen almost nobody. Rainier was still there when I was on a ridge. The mountains were still there.

I walked through the forest in the dappled sunshine, went under 3 sets of power lines, crossed many dirt roads that didn't look like they ever see a vehicle, noticed the highway that goes through Snoqualmie in the distance. I stopped to collect water just before my intended camp and the last thing I needed at the end of a long day was a difficult water source but that's what I got. I camped under tall skinny trees. I had been hearing helicopters all day and in the night I could still hear them. 22 miles/35 kms

9 September (Day 45) Another day of ups and downs sometimes emerging from the forest to see forest covered slopes. The trail was rooty and sometimes rocky and I crossed many dry rocky creek beds. I passed a small lake then had a stiff climb to Mirror Lake which was amazing with 2 rocky peaks reflected in the water.

I remained in the forest, more dry creeks, rock falls, and often very attractive autumn foliage.

Several day walkers; someone congratulated me on finishing my LASH.

It was a fine finale despite people having said this part isn't so interesting. I got water at Olallie Creek and from then on I could hear highway noise as I walked. I passed lots of stagnant ponds and a couple more lakes, a final climb and a view over Snoqualmie Pass ski and commercial area (not so beautiful).

I descended among the ski lifts and went to a cafe. Because of fires this is as far north as the PCT is open.

I hitched a ride with AJ to Issaquah and took public transport to a hotel in Seattle (Tukwila) where this whole trip started. 16 miles/25 kms

Total Oregon and Washington: 688 miles/1107 kms