Rheinsteig, Germany

When I decided to walk the Rheinsteig from Wiesbaden northwards to Bonn I thought it was a walk along the Rhine, which it is, but on the hills high above the middle and lower Rhine gorge rather than on the river bank. This means fantastic views earned by a lot of ups and downs on fairly steep terrain. Lots of forest, vineyards and dozens of castles ranging from medieval ruins to 19th century fantasies.

7 June I got the train to Wiesbaden and walked the few kilometres to my hotel near the start of the Rheinsteig, the last part through the Schlosspark with a lake and tiny castle. The park is named for the huge Schloss Biebrich, an 18th c palace on the Rhine where the walk officially starts. 4 kms

8 June I had a few kilometres along the Rhine, no activity at all on the river, went past the last bridge until Koblenz in my direction, and turned inland to walk alongside vineyards and I was able to pick lots of cherries. Plenty of other fruit trees in abandoned orchards. Soon into deciduous forest. Saw a red squirrel. The weather was muggy. There was a strange cliff in the forest just before the first town and castle ruins including a tower. I got a bit lost in the town. More forest which was very quiet apart from birds

and I came to a massive old mill building that had a water wheel at the side. Schlangenbad was the next town, completely surrounded by forest, some large hotels but the place felt deserted.

Back in the forest the walking was easy, a few streams, a few clearings and I came to a lookout over Kiedrich with a huge cherry tree full of cherries. I could see many other towns but not the Rhine; the trail is far from the river for these early stages. Kiedrich was in a valley and the steep slopes were covered with vines; signs said the vineyards date back to 12th c. I was surprised how steep the slopes were. I climbed further to a 12th c round tower and had a steep descent to the town. It was also very deserted and closed up, the usual Monday thing, with many half timbered buildings and lots of wine cellars. Fat white asparagus for dinner. 28 kms

9 June I walked up out of Kiedrich passing vineyards and into forest until I came to a lookout over Kloster Eberbach a 12th c monastery and surrounding buildings, painted white with red outlines. I descended to the complex and checked it out, peering inside the church as it was still closed.

Back into forest (also included wild cherry trees) and I was undulating until I came out onto a ridge and could see the Rhine. There are so many towns on both sides and the rest is vast vineyards looking very bright with spring foliage. The route meandered along the ridge at the edges of the vineyards, passed a palatial winery then returned into the forest.

The forest felt spacious and empty. I went the wrong way and tried to correct by walking between the trees but that took longer than staying on the paths because of all the fallen branches; then I went wrong again while contouring a big gully. There were a cluster of shrines in little huts and I came out by white with red Marienthal chapel and monastery. I went in the chapel (15th c but rebuilt) and walked across the village to get back to the forest at a 17th c chapel. Several grass clearings.

I climbed back up to the vines getting glimpses of the river and just below a medieval abbey I began my descent into Rüdesheim, which meant leaving the Rheinsteig. The town had some strangely shaped half timbered buildings and a prominent onion domed church near my hotel.

It was a very touristy place, narrow cobbled streets and pretty. The Rhine was a lot wider than in Wiesbaden and there were islands in the middle. 29 kms

10 June I had a big climb up from Rüdesheim through the vines with some great views over the town's slate roofs and the river,

and more views from the huge Niederwald statue at the top commemorating Germany's unification in 1870/1.

The forest up there had been developed into a park in the 1800s and had some interesting attractions like the trail went through a tower that had been built as a ruin positioned to look down on castle ruins by the river below and across to a toll castle on an island in the river, and a short twisty black tunnel through a building. I had a long zigzag descent to Assmanshausen, a small town where I hoped to get a coffee, but there was nothing open and I settled for a roll with cheese bought at the butcher. The town had cute buildings, lots of hotels.

Next a steep climb back up first along terraces on the hillside among vineyards and then into forest (oak, elm, wild cherry). Both sides of the river had steep forested hills, two castles on the opposite side, and just after it started raining I had a lovely view down the river as it narrowed between these hills. After the rain stopped I came to another such lookout. My path was on a ledge in the forest, above and below very steep terrain, rocky cliffs higher up. I passed a few walkers. I wasn't seeing any cherry trees with fruit low enough to pick until I found some on the descent. I saw a black and white swallowtail butterfly. There was a clearing with a good view over Lorch, back to vineyards and less steep hills, and a gentle descent to the town.

I looked around for a cafe and saw nothing which had me worried but later I found a bakery. And another schnitzel. 24 kms

11 June I had a steep climb out of Lorch ending at a ruined tower, Nollig, and a walk high above the river to a viewpoint over Lorchhausen and some river traffic.

It was cool with a bit of sun. The rest of the day was mostly in forest following a winding route around gullies and away from the river. I came to my first sighting of Kaub and the funny toll castle Burg Pfalzgrafenstein on an island in the middle of the river, and had a chat with a walker. The forest was steep with some slate scree and rock faces, mainly oak but pines higher up. I passed an unlocked cabinet with bottles of wine for sale, one of several along the trail.

I came out of the forest near a ruined castle from 1220, Burg Gutenfels,

with again a view over Burg Pfalzgrafenstein and the slate roofs of Kaub.

The hillsides are all terraced with dry stone walls. I descended steeply through a vineyard to Kaub and the youth hostel, the only place open, even in the evening. 14 kms

12 June It was raining while I had breakfast but cleared when I set out; there were constant light showers all day. Early on there were clouds hanging above the river. I walked through Kaub and up past vineyards then into forest. Nice views across to Oberwesel with two big churches and a castle. There was a deep gully I had to get around in thick forest which took hours and at the end I was still looking across to Oberwesel. There were plenty of lookouts and benches (that's certainly something they don't skimp on in Germany). I crossed a couple of flowing streams. 

When I reached the Loreley plateau I walked past vineyards where the grape types were explained and then visited some sharp rocks jutting out of the forest. The main part of Loreley was crazy busy and I wandered around not sure what I was looking for. But I ended up on the clifftop where the mythical Loreley sat. Can't fault her choice: the view of St Goarshausen from the clifftop was good.

Back on the trail I had a lovely view of St Goarshausen with Burg Katz castle at the near end

and bigger St Goar directly across the Rhine, colourful houses and a castle (Burg Rheinfels) higher up. I came steeply down on steps to St Goarshausen passing Burg Katz and had a brief look at the old town with many painted facades.

I decided to walk along the river for the last bit and I stopped for coffee and cake, my first opportunity on this walk. It was especially nice sitting here because the railway lines (with a constant stream of deafening freight trains) were behind both the towns rather than being beside the river; I could watch the cruise boats. Then I got the train to Wiesbaden as I couldn't find anywhere closer to stay. 21 kms

13 June Sunny. Back to St Goarshausen (without my pack) and a climb into the forest on steep steps until I reached fields. Poppies. Then straight back down again in forest with a surprise: suddenly I came to what seemed to me a hidden castle Burg Maus. I descended to the edge of a village and as I climbed up the other side of the valley I could see the castle clearly sitting on a promontory.

At the top of the climb I was on a plateau of farmland, mainly wheat, and I had a good view to the farmland plateau across the river and small villages. I couldn't see the river for a long time having turned inland. No vineyards in sight today. I came back down to forest with views over a large town on the far river bank and sheer rock cliffs, and descended almost to Kestert before having a long climb back up, gradual and then steep. On the way I passed a rest area by a stream with two hammocks.

At the top I was again on a plateau with fields and I came to a village, Lykershausen, where a guy was selling drinks and snacks from his house, a welcome break. I found a cherry tree overflowing with fruit so I picked a lot. I also found a rest area with the usual reclining bench and a rope basket swing overlooking the river. Nice. I crossed several meadows before descending on a narrow forest path, emerging by two ruined castles in succession (Sterrenburg, Liebestein).

And back up steeply again. The terrain is so steep everywhere rising from the narrow river plain. There wasn't much view except of forest on the far bank until I started coming down and I could see a long stretch of river. I looked down on Kamp Bornhofen and across to Boppard with a nice line of big buildings along the water.

I descended alongside fields until I was above Filsen where the river has a tight bend.

Filsen is known for a path lined by cherry trees but they weren't in flower and had no fruit, so of little interest to me, and I rushed to the station (noticing a half timbered watchtower) for the train to Wiesbaden. 28 kms

14 June Train from Wiesbaden. Cloudy. Lots of cherries early on. From Filsen I had easy walking just inside forest soon reaching my first lookout towards vineyards on the other bank. Crossed a few streams and went briefly onto another trail to get to some fabulous lookouts, westwards over vineyards and northeast over the town of Spay across the river and pale Marksburg castle on a more distant hillside, a long island in the river.

A cargo boat was moving incredibly slowly up river; underwater sandbanks were clearly visible from where I sat. 

Next a steep climb punctuated by another lookout and more climbing to a hut on a hilltop with a view over the next stretch of river between two bends. I sat out some black clouds on a recliner. The trail immediately went right down to a valley to cross a stream and up again to reach a ridge which I walked along looking down at the river. On the way I tried out a hammock on a spur overlooking the river. Marksburg was close but as it was on top of another hill I had to go down and then up.

(It's one of very few intact medieval castles along the Middle Rhine.) I could also just see pale Stolzenfels castle in the distance on the left bank.

I walked down to Braubach, along a street of half timbered houses to the cake shop. The town had many half timbered houses dating from 15/1600s.

Between the river and the railway line there was a lovely wine garden; the river was quiet and I saw the only paddle steamer still operating. 15 kms

15 June Above Braubach I had another good view of Marksburg

before descending towards the River Lahn, a tributary of the Rhine. This river was in a rocky steep sided gorge and I walked along it for a while before reaching the start of the Ruppertsklamm beneath a rocky cliff. This was a very nice climb up a narrow gorge initially on rock with the help of cables - the stream was flowing over the rock I had to walk on - and then on a tiny path which kept switching sides.

At the end of the narrow section I turned to leave the gorge on a ridge in the forest, with distant views of Lahneck castle next to a chapel on a hilltop.

Then steep climbing in the forest, partly coniferous, and a very long descent back towards the Rhine although it was out of sight. The last part was along a stream, the path was quite muddy but the stream was almost dry. I reached the Rhine and walked right by the water a bit until I came to the bridge across the river to Koblenz: the area was a mess because of major works on the bridge and not pleasant walking; I crossed the river and walked into the city.

After dumping my bag I went down to Deutsches Eck where the Moselle River runs into the Rhine beneath the massive riverside Ehrenbreitstein fortress across the Rhine. I also went inside a couple of churches, Liebfrauenkirche (two onion dome towers) and St Kastor basilica

with two original Romanesque towers, both with star vaulted roofs. 25 kms

16 June Frustrating start: I wanted to get the pedestrian ferry across the Rhine but it wasn't operating so I had to walk back to the messy bridge, across it and through road works to reach the fortress; after climbing up to it I then had to walk around the backside full of brambles and the route went on to a fancy lookout over Deutsches Eck except that the view was obscured by trees. The trail moves away from the Rhine for a few days. A bit of fields to the edge of Vallendar and I walked through the town because the countryside was nothing special, it started raining and I went in a cafe in the little town centre.

I walked out of the town along an overgrown path by a stream and returned to the Rheinsteig to start walking through wheat fields on a plateau, a glimpse of the Rhine and into forest. I reached a reconstructed Roman tower (part of the original Limes defence line) where there was a massive view over the country around the Rhine to a distant mountain range (and a recliner). The mugginess gave way to sunshine.

I had a winding descent to Sayn with glimpses of the medieval abbey through the trees; I had a look at the outside - the main feature being the exterior painted patterns around the windows and bays.

Sayn was just a one street village, with a big palace and gardens, overlooked by a castle. Fortunately the beer garden was open. 24 kms

17 June I walked up to the castle ruins, spread out over the hilltop with an extensive view over countryside towards the Rhine and beyond. Back down to the palace and then along the edge of the forest without any views. I went over little summits and passed many shelter huts, also several closed restaurants so clearly a popular area but not today. A small lake. There was a good view over the forest just before Rengsdorf. The weather was oppressive. 15 kms

18 June Hot day, another heatwave. I walked through Rengsdorf and up to a ridge with a panoramic view over the whole Rhine valley, then some cool forest where I walked above a small river (saw a working water wheel at a mill) with climbs to avoid a road, and I got to Altwied where there was a ruined castle

and I crossed the river on an old stone bridge. More forest to another ridge of wheat fields with great views (but still only a sliver of Rhine) and a lot of apple trees.

I was supposed to descend towards Leutesdorf but I somehow went higher instead and did an arc above the town so I came into the town on the Rheinsteig going the other direction. Anyway there were lovely views over the town and the Rhine (the river seemed narrower than usual)

with small stony beaches and the elevated motorway on the far bank; in Leutesdorf the river bank was grassy parkland with big shady trees. 20 kms

19 June I walked along the river through Leutesdorf and out of the town passing extremely steep hillsides covered with vines. I could see castle ruins on a cliff ahead and guessed I was headed there. Sure enough I had a hard climb up to the top and I was rewarded by an amazing view from the low remains of a round tower: the Rhine had widened and had a large island and I could see a long way in both directions. Ahead I could see another cliff which looked even higher.

I descended to Hammerstein and walked through the village then started the long climb in forest to the second clifftop. It was hard in the heat. At the top I was on a plateau with meadows and orchards and more excellent views over the Rhine.

I came down to Rheinbrohl and went through the town, lots of half timbered buildings and an old church. As the road and railway were a bit inland I decided to forgo the hills and stay by the river, I walked through meadows and on a bike path (brutally hot) to Bad Hönningen, with a good view of Rheineck castle across the river. Time for ice cream.

I dumped my bag at my hotel and set out for Linz, following the Rheinsteig mostly but shortening the route because of the heat (by now mid 30s). I left Bad Hönningen passing the ornate, many-windowed Arenfels castle with its backdrop of steep vineyards

and climbed to a ridge for a long stretch overlooking the river, luckily some shade. The river was a hive of activity. I came through a small town with a large church and climbed to another ridge with many lookouts. I descended steeply on an overgrown path and walked parallel with the river into Linz. I was quite surprised to see that Linz had a proper square with cafes around the edge (busy) and a pretty town hall, possibly the nicest town centre of the Rheinsteig.

Just seeing things open was a treat! (It was bigger than any of the other towns I've been through.) There were several old towers/archways and masses of half timbered buildings. I went in St Martin's church with frescoes. 22 kms

The bus to Bad Hönningen never turned up so I shared a taxi with two guys also waiting for the bus. In Bad Hönningen there were only two restaurants open (one was empty) and a lot of closed ones. Friday. I just don't get it.

20 June The bus to Linz was dead on time and I had breakfast on a square in town. Out of the town I had to get over two hills and then a steep climb to Erpeler Ley, a clifftop with a great lookout and large town Remagen across the Rhine.

Nice breeze as I sat on a recliner. I descended to Erpel and walked through the town on a ridge with views across the river of ornate Apollinaris church and small palaces/castles; another lookout. Long descent in forest, small waterfall (but couldn't access the water) and up to a landing field for paragliders. I really needed water and a somewhat confused workman kindly gave me a bottle at a closed restaurant that other people had directed me to.

More descent and start of long climb to Auge Gottes, a tiny chapel with a painted eye to deter people from stealing timber. I had passed many shrines along the trail, some stone ones looking very old. It was a hot climb and no view there or when I went a bit higher. I came down in a wide gorge and out of the forest to the youth hostel in an isolated spot above Bad Honnef. Nothing special but too hot to leave once I got there. 18 kms

21 June I had a vicious climb only to come right back down and then a long climb in forest up to Löwenburg castle, at 428 m the highest point on my walk. It was already baking hot and I was soaked. The castle ruins were a bit off the Rheinsteig but I had to go up there for a view. There wasn't much left, a few walls and part of the keep.

The 360 view was incredible: felt like I could see all of the western half of Germany, forested hills of the Schwarzwald, farmed valleys, the Rhine, towns. Considering the effort I had expended I was surprised to see so many people up there looking comfortable.

I rejoined the Rheinsteig and in 50 metres I came to Löwenburger Hof restaurant/car park; that explained the castle visitors. I stopped for aschorle as it has been so unusual for a restaurant to be open in my walk. Shady terrace and a vista to the Schwarzwald.

I took the most direct route towards Drachenfels (with newer castle and ruins of older), mostly downhill until I reached the newer 19th c Schloss Drachenfels. From there I went steeply uphill (alongside a rack railway) to the medieval Burg Drachenfels ruins on a massive cliff which has been excessively quarried, an odd sight from below. On the way up was an iconic view of the fairy tale schloss above the Rhine.

The 12th c tower ruins were impressive in their position on the hilltop and the view over the Rhine and far beyond was amazing: Bonn, two large islands, the forested hills of the Siebengebirge. I could even see Cologne cathedral (built from stone quarried here).

I came downhill and walked into Köningswinter, the town was full of open restaurants, very lively. I was worn out from the heat and had a nap on a bench by the river. 17 kms

22 June Climb out of Köningswinter into the Siebengebirge forest and on to Heisterbach monastery with preserved remains of 13th c abbey, just the part behind the altar.

Along to an area of steep vineyards with a view over the conurbation on this side of the river and back into forest. 

Eventually I descended to the conurbation where it was significantly hotter and I reached the Rhine. This is the first time since Wiesbaden, apart from a kilometre in Koblenz, that the Rheinsteig is officially on the river bank. The riverside path was lined by lime trees. It was far too hot and the river was quiet. I crossed over the river into central Bonn and walked past the old Rathaus,

through the market square to the cathedral with its sculptures of two saints' heads outside.

I returned to the market square for ice cream. 19 kms

Total 325 kms; 16 days; 10245 m elevation gain

Westweg, Germany

Germany has been a gap in my walking resumé. I don't remember how I heard of the Westweg and I knew little about it in advance of starting except that it went the whole length of the Black Forest from north to south so there would be lots of trees. I didn't expect all the mountains. I had planned to camp but this proved difficult because there were so few opportunities to buy food, there was almost no water on the trail (taps or streams) and nowhere would ever be open at breakfast time. In the end the trail really grew on me; at first I thought it was nothing special but after a couple of days I began to appreciate how it was so well thought out, all beautiful without exception. Like Offa's Dyke it was hard to pinpoint what gave the trail such a good feel, although nine straight days of sunshine certainly helped. 

23 May I left my hotel in Pforzheim and had a short way to the official start of the Westweg. It was a cloudless sky and already warm. There was an archway signifying the walk start. Initially there was a maze of little paths in the forest but my route was meticulously signed although my gps route differed from the signs. I went through a town and was then on a bike path in the forest (red cedar, beech, horse chestnut, sycamore) alongside a river which was very nice. I climbed to Schloss Neuenburg (a large mansion) and descended to Neuenburg, rather sleepy and no bakery. After a lot of climbing and more forest paths I came to the edge of Schwan and detoured to try and find a bakery: nothing. The next forest path had good views over towns of red roofs and forest in the valley from a slight ridge. I reached a main road and an outdoor cafe with this same view and had an ice cream.

More forest paths, in fact there was quite a choice of paths and I might not have always been on the Westweg. It was still a mixed forest but increasingly conifers. There were lots of piles of logs, a frequent feature of the trail. It was hot and uphill. When I reached Dobel (surprisingly to me it was a ski village) I walked along the road to where I was staying and the owner booked me a table at the pizzeria. 27 kms

24 May Seems to be a heatwave here. I hadn't realised this was a long weekend, posing problems with food because all the shops would be closed today and tomorrow. I sneaked two filled rolls from my hotel breakfast (itself a last minute measure because the bakery was closed and I had only found out when I walked past on my way to the pizzeria).

Back in the forest I went along wide paths and after a while there were several openings with good views of pine covered hills and tucked away villages. Then a clearing with a hut where I rested a bit, it was already hot. More viewpoints, I went over a peak, an interlude on a narrow rocky path and I came to a serviced hut with an expanse of grass overlooking the forested hills and I had a coffee. This was what I had expected from a walk in Germany. There were some walkers but mostly bike riders.

Mostly downhill in lovely forest on the other side of the ridge, lots of birds tweeting. I came to a hotel/ restaurant and was intending to eat but I continued on past a marshy area with ponds and came to a high tower which I climbed for a view of the surrounding forest and valley towns, such a variety of greens.

Narrow rocky trails to a closed hut where I sat for lunch and another hut with a view over the valley (where I had originally planned to stay) and a long descent towards Forbach deep in the forest.

A couple of lookouts. I was playing leapfrog with the same walkers all day. On the edge of the forest I emerged at an area of sloping meadows and walked downhill into Forbach. The supermarket was closed but I got food and drink at a servo, then went past several cafes and a bakery. 

I began my climb out of Forbach to the hut where I hoped I could sleep; it was a brutal steep climb, no zigzags like on the way down, and I was soon a liquid mess. Nice view of the town looking back.

After a couple of kilometres the path narrowed and the grade eased for the remainder. The hut (Wegschiedhütte) turned out to be idyllic, a tiny A-frame on a triangle of grass with forest all around and an upstairs sleeping platform. 32 kms

25 May Cute colourful birds around the hut. Soon I was climbing again on a rocky path beside a stream. I came to a river basin that is usually full of water then I walked a loop around little hidden Herrenwieser See whose still surface reflected the trees. More climbing to an opening with a view of dense forest, some time on a plateau walking between all sorts of firs and pines and bilberry bushes with unripe fruit, warnings about wolves and at the summit (1002 m) a tall tower Badener Hohe that I didn't have to climb as it was closed. 

Long downhill on a wide trail with a few views north to beyond the mountains. I passed a closed cafe and at the next one I sat down and ordered a coffee (I wasn't sure if it was really open but there was nowhere else). I paused at a ski hill. The heat is energy sapping. Another ski hill then I had a long climb to a plateau of heather and bilberries and stunted pines, the summit Hochkopf had a good panorama of mountains. I came down to very busy Untersmatt (2 restaurants, nothing else) and ordered kaiserscharrm because I haven't eaten it for years.

I went higher again to a shabby ski/walkers lodge. 19 kms

26 May A bit more uphill on a rocky rooty path to the summit of Horningsgrinde (1139 m) with a tower I had seen yesterday. Views.

From there I walked to a viewpoint over Mummelsee, a brown lake with a resort in the forest,

and then a lovely narrow trail deep in the forest to another ski hill. The path undulated along the mountainside with views over valleys with houses until I reached a serviced hut for a rhubarb soda. Next I glimpsed a tiny hidden lake, Wildersee.

I went up to a plateau and came down steeply through a ski field to Ruhestein where I had a pair of wurst for lunch. A lot fewer people around now the long weekend is over.

Then I had to go all the way back up to the summit of Schliffkopf; a lot had been logged so there was no shade and it was very hot. The top was an extensive plateau of heather and bilberries with views of the mountains. I still seemed to be climbing and there were some good views from the trail into a narrow cleared valley.

The occasional breeze was very welcome. The tall dark conifers are really beautiful and often growing in a thick carpet of bilberries. Eventually I came to clearings at the top of the ski area at Zuflucht and there was a smart hotel there; I had a flammekuchen for early dinner before I went on.

The walking was easier after that as it had cooled a bit and I was done with serious climbing. I went along logging roads until I came out onto an open hill top with a great view west of tiny clusters of houses in little valleys. I got to Hildahütte at a junction and as there was a patch of mown grass by the hut I put my tent up there; there were so many insects I didn't want to sleep in the open hut. 30 kms

27 May The path became narrower and climbed to a viewpoint (Seeblick) over a little lake hundreds of metres below.

Then I crossed a logged area and had a long descent to a road crossing where there was a water tap just providing drips of water (the previous source was dry). Had to climb back up on the other side to a hut with beds and a table inside. Walking along a ridge I had a view of the mountains to the east and the forest became darker.

I was pleased to come out of the forest onto cow grazing hillsides and arrive at Harkhof (a farm) and its terrace restaurant, where I was staying in the mattress room. Lunch was a pile of shredded salami with potato salad and cottage cheese, and Black Forest cake. It was so hot. I was still tired from yesterday and by the evening I was feeling quite unwell with a temperature and I could hardly eat. 13 kms

28 May This was a cruisy day with plenty of shade, several good lookouts and a long downhill to Hausach. Mostly on narrow paths deep in the forest.

The first lookout at Hohenlochen was a break in the trees to see forest from a rock platform.

Further along I looked the same way but over a farmed valley.

Then a lookout the other way over a village and minimal ruins of a castle. I came to a small tor with my first view over Hausach in a long valley, the biggest town on the route so far. The final descent was steep to fields on the edge of the town then I crossed a river and was in the town. My hotel was right at the beginning of the spread out town and I had a long walk to get my ice cream. But I was near the supermarkets so I could buy food for the first time on this walk. 15 kms

29 May This was going to be a hard day of climbing in the heat but luckily I was almost always in the forest with a lot of shade. I walked the length of Hausach then had a steep climb up past a tower ruin to a low summit, then prolonged steep uphill to a hut, Farrenkopf, where there was a good mountain view and I caught up with the only remaining walkers that had started out from Pforzheim the same day as me, a German couple and a Dutch couple. There was a long stony descent then more uphill at an easier grade to ruins of a fort (where the Dutch guy tried to use my tick key to remove a tick but it didn't work!) Many fortification ditches around. We all thought there was a restaurant within a few kilometres but the next food available on the Westweg was a lot further away; there were so many trails with different features intersecting and separating it was confusing. Lots of wind turbines but mostly not active today. Lots of little shrines.

I came to a lookout on top of a rock at Huberfels with a big metal marker indicating the halfway point of the trail.

Good view. Soon another rocky tor with an extensive view. I was back high again. The best thing about the second view was that I could also see the restaurant

and I was soon there, cutting through the forest and across grass in my haste. I had an elderflower soda and a slice of cheesecake. Then it was a flattish stretch out of the forest, the path overlooking a small town, until the next restaurant where I didn't stop because I had to find somewhere to camp. 

The huts along here were more like little bus shelters, by a road and nowhere suitable for camping. Then I noticed a walkers' campsite on the map that was only 1500 metres away so I went there and it was ok, some grass in the forest and water tap, the toilet was locked. (The Germans said later I had been sent a code hidden deep in an email for me to access a website for the lock combination.) 27 kms

30 May It was distinctly cool when I got up, probably because I was at over 1000 metres. I took a different route back to the Westweg walking through a green valley with a few typical mountain houses and into a forest with a slightly different feel: mossy and with several little streams. I hadn't seen flowing water for a while. I arrived at Martinskapelle, a small chapel

and hotel at the site of the source of the Danube; the source was a tiny trickle in a field with an ugly sculpture on the bank above.

I got a coffee at the hotel. 

I went back into the forest, which had lovely soft pine needles underfoot, and searched out some big groups of moss covered boulders (Günterfelsen).

Then on to Brend where there was a low tower to climb - nice views of distant mountains beyond the plateau. The next bit was especially nice walking slightly downhill between forest and meadows. Despite a thin layer of cloud the day had heated up. I saw a town in a valley and in the other direction reached a restaurant, but the owner's dog tried to attack me and the place was closed apart from vending machines with beer, wine and wurst. There was a town not much further so I detoured off the trail and asked for directions to a restaurant, the town was baking hot but there was indeed an open restaurant, a locals sort of place. I could see Feldberg with two towers on top (highest mountain in Black Forest) from the terrace.

From there I had the hardest climb of the day because of the heat and I walked near a road but well separated until Kalte Herberge where I was staying. The hotel has been in operation since 1480 and it was altogether a nice place. 22 kms

31 May Hot from the get go. The path was close to the road and frequently crossing it, on a ridge with good views until returning into the forest, but still emerging to pass meadows and farmhouses.

I stopped at the first hut and when I came out it was windy and clouding over and soon the sun went behind a cloud for the first time on this walk. I was in and out of forest on gravel tracks with views towards Feldberg, a small town and isolated farmhouses, stacked logs everywhere as usual and shrines.

The route was undulating, reaching almost 1200 metres before a long descent to Titisee. It was again hot coming into the town and I was suddenly confronted by souvenir shops and masses of people. I went down to the lake and found a cafe there and the Dutch couple. A several kilometre long lake with forest all around apart from the town and a few resorts. The wind came up while I sat there and some thunder; within two minutes of me leaving it started raining and I sheltered on a covered stage as it bucketed down. Then I walked along the road to a huge campground by the lake. It rained more. 23 kms

1 June It rained a lot in the night and the morning was cooler, lots of cloud. I went on roads past the end of the lake to the edge of Hinterzarten, pretty village with onion domed church. Steep climbing for a while by meadows and in forest, some streams with little falls, until 1000 metres when the grade eased. I came to an old farmhouse and could see Feldberg clearly, last view I had of it until I was on the summit. The track became stony and I had a view over little Feldsee far below among the trees. I could see one of the towers on Feldberg and the top of the chairlift long before I was on the summit but the trail didn't pass them instead heading across the grassy summit to a radar tower and the highest point at 1493 metres. The views all around of so many distant mountains were amazing and along the southern horizon a line of much higher mountains, the Alps including Mont Blanc and the Eiger. Also the distinctive peak of Belchen, tomorrow's climb.

The sun was shining but there were dark clouds.

I descended slightly on grassy slopes then climbed back onto a plateau that was nearly as high before starting the real descent. This side of the range was open grassland/bilberries with continuous views southwards and a few copses of pines. I went back into the forest and it was a shame all the restaurants on the way down were on their day off (this explained why the trail was suddenly deserted). By Notschrei, a nordic skiing centre, I was tired and I didn't like the next unnecessary climb. I rested at a lovely hut, a pity I had a hotel booking and no food or I could have stayed. The last part was by fields, a narrow rooty path between electric fences. The green valley views were nice but Wieden, my destination, remained hidden. I reached the road and a hotel and I went in to ask them to phone my hotel owner to pick me up as Wieden is off the trail, 250 metres lower and I had done enough walking. It proved to be a cute village deep in a valley; the restaurants were both closed so my hotel owner gave me a bowl of soup. 31 kms

2 June I asked the hotel owner at breakfast (at least I got breakfast!) if I could buy some food from her but she said she had nothing. She took me back to the pick up point and I started my climb up Belchen, I was in a mixed forest until a saddle then the path got steeper, some scree falls and big rocks and I was on a grassy mountainside looking across to Feldberg,

and also at the cable car up Belchen with a car park far below.

(The path didn't quite go to the summit but I had read there was no need to go there.) The cafe by the cable car was about to open (10am) so it was a no brainer to wait as I was extremely hungry. I had coffee and a big slab of strawberry cake. The view was the best yet with 270 degrees of mountains in Germany, Switzerland and France. Lovely sunshine. 

The descent began on open hillsides

with views across to Blauen my next summit and a rocky hillside in the foreground, something unusual on this walk.

Soon I went into a forest with rocky cliffs, contouring a steep forested chasm. Then out again for walking in the full sun and along one stretch I noticed tiny wild strawberries that were delicious. There was some climbing to avoid a road, a closed restaurant, and I went back into dense forest, beech at first later pine. The trail was often a ledge cut into the hillside and it was very peaceful. I had window views west over the plains and the Vosges beyond.

I knew it was going to rain in the afternoon and I timed my arrival for a rest at a roadside shelter well: there was a downpour just after I settled in then some thunder, and road workmen who had been making lots of noise there left. The rain got really heavy and there was lightning. A walker I had chatted with this morning turned up looking drenched and hopped in a car with some forest workers who arrived at the hut at the same time.

After an hour the rain had stopped and although I knew it was coming back I thought I could get to the top of Blauen without getting soaked. The path was steep and the edges were wet also the trees were dripping, it rained lightly but it was ok. The summit (1160 m) was entirely in cloud and there was no point in climbing the tower, a few seconds away I couldn't even see the tower let alone a view.

Then out of the mist I saw the new Blauen hotel and went in for a coffee.

When I came out of the hotel I saw that there was a trail diversion on a tiny unmarked path, a bit worrying in the mist but it met a sealed road and then the real trail. I had almost 10 kilometres of downhill ahead. Coming down gradually in the misty forest was very nice, birds singing and trees dripping and nobody around. I got all the way down to Gümpen (760 m) before I was out of the cloud and the sun was almost shining. There were some interestingly shaped clouds hanging on the hillsides and there was a clear colour change between the conifers and the deciduous trees. There were several huts that I could have stayed at if only there was somewhere to get food. I checked out Sausenberg 15th c castle ruins (a tower and bits of wall), came through a small village and eventually hit a lookout point over Kandern.

I was exhausted coming into the town and my hotel was just beside the pretty square.

Not much was open for dinner so I went to another hotel and when I walked into the restaurant my German friends were sitting with car guy (who hadn't noticed me at the hut) and I really enjoyed my meal with them. 33 kms

3 June I left my pack in Kandern and set out for Basel. The route went through narrow little Wolsfsschlucht gorge with high cliffs

and then out of the forest to pass through a series of villages surrounded by vineyards, orchards and cereal fields. I was very happy to find a wild cherry tree with lots of ripe dark cherries, more tiny strawberries by the roadside and later a white cherry tree. By the time I returned to the forest it was raining lightly; the weather was very changeable. I took a few short cuts and came to Burg Rötteln, ruins of a medieval castle on a spur with a couple of towers, walls, a cellar and a commanding view of towns in the valley.

I ate cheesecake at the cafe, sheltering from the rain in the beer garden under a tree, amazingly the only place I saw to get food on the route until Basel. 

I went off the Westweg for a while to walk along a river and I had my last climb, up to a park overlooking the Basel conurbation, except that it was pouring when I reached the top so I couldn't look properly. I rejoined the Westweg and came to a chapel on a hilltop nearby with a patch of medieval fresco and the same view with the sun out. Then I walked downhill through a town, along some parkland and back to the same river; so close to Basel but no sign of a city. The trail had a last surprise: there was a stretch through a zoo with bison, deer, geese and goats. When I left the zoo I had the feeling I was in Switzerland and I asked someone, who said yes. There had been no indication of a border. I continued to Basel Bad train station (curiously the station is officially in Germany but physically in Switzerland due to an 1852 treaty) and the official end of the Westweg although I intended to finish in the centre of Basel. I got the bus back to Kandern. 24 kms

4 June I took the bus back to Basel Bad station and strolled into Basel for a short look around. It was a public holiday in Germany (Corpus Christi) but not in Switzerland. It was a grey day. I crossed the Rhine with a good view of Basel cathedral on the far side, the old stone bridge and ornate buildings. 

I went in the red stone cathedral with its sculpted towers, simple columns inside and crypt with frescoes and tombs dating back to 900, and the adjoining chamber of tombs from wealthy local families. The white stone buildings around the cathedral had typically painted shutters. I made a loop in the old town, looked inside the entranceway of the town hall - painted red with frescoes and some 15th c statues - had a sandwich in the market place, passed other churches and went back to Basel Bad when it started raining. A wet finish to my walk. 6 kms

Total: 303 kms, 8617 m elevation gain, 13 days