I've only done day hikes in America until now but my hiking gear all comes from America so it seemed clear that I should have a go at using this stuff in its home environment. I picked the Pacific Crest Trail because it sounded like the best of the lot and I then picked Oregon because I have always liked that state for its lack of sales tax low key vibe and good mix of scenery.
27 July The shuttle dropped me off at a trailhead (just an unmarked parking bay) at mile 1720.8 and I walked down to the PCT. A hard day, because of the heat and my heavy pack. It was interesting to find out finally what the PCT is like: a fairly smooth single track winding through forest of varying density, meadows or lightly treed rolling hillsides. From here to the border with Washington this is the Cascade Range. An early highlight was Pilot Rock with a view towards Mt Shasta, a volcanic cone south in California with plenty of snow higher up. Then many views of mountain ranges and a lot of forest. Many lizards. A few birds. Short climbs which I found harder with my pack. It was still and perfect blue sky. After 2 miles there was a water cache and then the only water all day was a measly spring in the middle of the day where plenty of hikers were gathered.
After Hobart Bluff, a high point with good views over forested mountains and cleared valleys, I was looking for a place to camp - I thought 15 miles was enough for my first day - but there was nothing and I continued until another hiker suggested a spot in high grass under pine trees and I settled for that as I didn't want to camp alone. A mouse immediately scurried past my tent as I put it up. I ate my wraps. I was tired. 17.6 miles/28 kms
28 July I enjoyed my cold coffee for breakfast. The trail was in and out of forest all day with a couple of open traverses on steep grass slopes with mountain views. After 4 miles I came to my first water source for 13 miles and was pleased the stream was flowing well. The stream was below a dam and this meant I saw my first lake: Little Hyatt Lake with good reflections of pine trees. Soon I had window views from the forest over much larger Hyatt Lake. I stopped for a break and noticed a deer munching away nearby. I also saw lots of chipmunks. There were masses of logs to clamber over. I was still finding it hard work and I liked it when a breeze came up.
The next water source was 10 miles further on and it was disappointing, a tiny stream and very hard to get water to flow into my filter pouch, but I needed water because the next source was 12 miles away. The water situation is crazy. I was already tired but I decided to continue to a campsite 4 miles on; I didn't realise this was all uphill, in dense forest filled with fallen tree debris, and I had no chance of finding a camping spot sooner. The sunlight in the forest was playing tricks on me: I saw seated hikers, a stone wall and a tent which all turned out to be fallen tree trunks. As I came out of the forest I reached the site, a patch of cleared earth only big enough for one tent but to me it couldn't have been better. 18.4 miles/29 kms
29 July It was cold while I had breakfast but soon warmed up. Just before the summit I came onto an open ridge with a fantastic view over mountains towards Mt Shasta. 
The actual summit (1800 m) was viewless. The descent was cruisy as the forest under storey became increasingly lush and with a few stops I got to an off trail shelter hut, lots of rats, deer hanging around, water pump that was good once I got the hang of it. I had done 8 miles. I committed to continuing to Fish Lake.
The actual summit (1800 m) was viewless. The descent was cruisy as the forest under storey became increasingly lush and with a few stops I got to an off trail shelter hut, lots of rats, deer hanging around, water pump that was good once I got the hang of it. I had done 8 miles. I committed to continuing to Fish Lake.
The trail soon started crossing an endless series of extensive lava flows, many with huge logs, exposed and the scoria reflecting a lot of heat. 
As I came higher I had more views of distant mountains then suddenly conical Mt McLoughlin appeared, not far away.
I was soon tired of the lava flows but they continued for 10 miles until the turn off for Fish Creek resort. This was a pleasant couple of miles on a smooth path through the forest ending at a surprisingly low key resort with free camping for PCT hikers by the lake. I could only see the lake when I reached it and the water level was low, lots of exposed tree stumps along the shores.
As I came higher I had more views of distant mountains then suddenly conical Mt McLoughlin appeared, not far away.
I was soon tired of the lava flows but they continued for 10 miles until the turn off for Fish Creek resort. This was a pleasant couple of miles on a smooth path through the forest ending at a surprisingly low key resort with free camping for PCT hikers by the lake. I could only see the lake when I reached it and the water level was low, lots of exposed tree stumps along the shores.
I was exhausted and really enjoyed my burger in the restaurant - I was in luck since I got there at 6 and the restaurant closed at 7. 20.6 miles/33 kms
30 July I had scrambled eggs for breakfast which involved bacon, sausage, capsicum, potato and egg, and 2 cups of coffee. I returned to the PCT and spent the day in forest. It was quite varied, with huge fat trees, areas of grassy glades with Christmas trees, shiny tall firs on exposed hillsides. Very beautiful and a bit cooler than before with some clouds. The trail had sections with masses of downed trees, some tricky to get over or around. Lots of chipmunks. I met a trail crew clearing the trail by sawing these huge logs, they said the trail was completely clear in 2024 so I was seeing the effects of just two winters.
I passed by Mt McLoughlin, climbing to 1900 m, and saw completely dry Summit Lake, and had a view over beautifully blue Fourmile Lake. The first water was after ten miles and not easy to access; I sat chatting with some hikers there. Then I continued another 4 miles in the late afternoon sunshine and camped with German Johannes and American Free Willy in a small clearing under huge trees. The American said I could have the trail name Wraps because she had never met anyone who existed solely on wraps. 18 miles/29 kms
31 July I walked the first mile in my fleece carrying my coffee and stopped to drink it when I was warmer. The day's highlight was a long ridge walk above the forest crossing a succession of scree slopes flowing downhill from granite walls with fantastic views, first of dry mountainsides dotted with pines and small ponds far below, then tiers of hazy mountains in all directions.
It became a hard climb in the heat on rough ground ending below Devil's Peak, the craggy summit only slightly higher than the pass at 2235 m.
The trail snaked quickly down into the forest and within a mile there was a fine flowing stream where it was easy to gather water. The next mile was the worst so far for blowdowns blocking the trail. There were a couple more streams, one with masses of tiny frogs, and the path went further down into a hot valley, only to climb out again. Higher up the forest was interspersed with grassy meadows. I was really tired but wanted to reach a campsite near some ponds for water. The trail crossed a large burnt area with awful charred blowdowns as I rushed along with Free Willy and Johannes. We reached the camping area exhausted. I went to find the ponds: there was a smidge of water surrounded by mud (which I almost sunk into) so the water seemed inaccessible. 20 miles/32 kms
It became a hard climb in the heat on rough ground ending below Devil's Peak, the craggy summit only slightly higher than the pass at 2235 m.
The trail snaked quickly down into the forest and within a mile there was a fine flowing stream where it was easy to gather water. The next mile was the worst so far for blowdowns blocking the trail. There were a couple more streams, one with masses of tiny frogs, and the path went further down into a hot valley, only to climb out again. Higher up the forest was interspersed with grassy meadows. I was really tired but wanted to reach a campsite near some ponds for water. The trail crossed a large burnt area with awful charred blowdowns as I rushed along with Free Willy and Johannes. We reached the camping area exhausted. I went to find the ponds: there was a smidge of water surrounded by mud (which I almost sunk into) so the water seemed inaccessible. 20 miles/32 kms
1 August There were 2 climbs today mainly not too enclosed. I continued across the burnt area with distant views because the trees were branchless. At the top I walked a ridge with good mountain views. The second high point was in forest, several nice meadows higher up. A few deer. I was finding the day hard because my back would start hurting and I would have to stop walking when the pain became too much. The masses of blowdowns didn't help (people have said there are over 300 downed trees between Fish Lake and Mazama). Free Willy passed me near the end and gave me some water which I really needed.
At the bottom I had to walk along the road a bit and into Mazama village where I went straight to the store for a large powerade. There were lots of PCT hikers hanging around who were walking huge daily distances. I had a coffee and ate a ham/cheese croissant and a 4-pack of custard desserts. For dinner I had a burger in the restaurant. 13 miles/21kms
2 August It was freezing cold so I enjoyed my two cups of coffee very much. I bought hot dog rolls and fresh cheese and took the shuttle trolley 5 miles to Crater Lake. This was meant to be a rest day but I needed to get to see the lake and there was no point coming back to boring Mazama afterwards. The first view of the lake was breathtaking: so blue and so round. 
Wizard Island at this end of the lake with its own volcano and crater dominates the lake but the rim is also interesting with many bluffs, eroded spires, peaks. I checked out the view from the lodge, realised I was going in the wrong direction, and picked up the Crater Rim trail along the west rim which is an alternative to the PCT.
Wizard Island at this end of the lake with its own volcano and crater dominates the lake but the rim is also interesting with many bluffs, eroded spires, peaks. I checked out the view from the lodge, realised I was going in the wrong direction, and picked up the Crater Rim trail along the west rim which is an alternative to the PCT.
The trail was fantastic with constant lake views for a few miles, showing the island from many angles. 
The highest part of the rim is called the Watchtower and I walked right to the top (2432 m) doing an extra mile of steep switchbacks beyond the official trail. The lake was completely still so it reflected the rim beautifully. In the other direction I could still see Mt Shasta and Mt McLoughlin, and a few inland peaks with slivers of snow remaining. Then the trail went behind the bluffs, returning to a couple of last viewpoints.
The highest part of the rim is called the Watchtower and I walked right to the top (2432 m) doing an extra mile of steep switchbacks beyond the official trail. The lake was completely still so it reflected the rim beautifully. In the other direction I could still see Mt Shasta and Mt McLoughlin, and a few inland peaks with slivers of snow remaining. Then the trail went behind the bluffs, returning to a couple of last viewpoints.
The rest of the Rim trail was across a desolate area of sandy hills with scattered juniper and pine saplings. I sheltered under a tree and had a long chat with a passing hiker. When I got up to leave I noticed my pack frame had snapped on one side. Bummer.
I went on to a national park campsite where I intended to camp but a very chatty woman camped there gave off odd vibes so I went on. I refilled at a water cache nearby and there some hikers I'd already met were able to give me duct tape to secure my broken pack. I walked on another mile until I saw a flat place to camp in the woods without much debris. 13 miles/21 kms
3 August A hummingbird startled me as I packed up; I had forgotten they are like a giant bee. It was colder than usual for several hours and the air was a bit smoky. In the forest most of the blow downs had been cleared (but only on this stretch, there were hard ones later) and lots of logs looked like they'd been stacked by the trail, and the interior of the forest was a mass of logs. I came to a huge water cache and embarked on a 5 mile climb. 
After a while I could see Diamond Lake and high mountains to the west, in a smoke haze. A sobo said to me Watch out for the cougar a mile up the trail and I was happy I didn't see it! The grade was unrelenting until I found myself right below Mt Thielsen, its slopes a mix of grass dotted with pines and vast scree. I emerged at a saddle with a great view of the mountain and then I stupidly started to descend on the wrong path; coming back up in the heat was really unpleasant. The correct path led to more views of Mt Thielsen
as I descended to lovely rushing Thielsen Creek and small waterfall, the first such creek on this route. Above was the north face of Mt Thielsen with a few patches of snow.
After a while I could see Diamond Lake and high mountains to the west, in a smoke haze. A sobo said to me Watch out for the cougar a mile up the trail and I was happy I didn't see it! The grade was unrelenting until I found myself right below Mt Thielsen, its slopes a mix of grass dotted with pines and vast scree. I emerged at a saddle with a great view of the mountain and then I stupidly started to descend on the wrong path; coming back up in the heat was really unpleasant. The correct path led to more views of Mt Thielsen
as I descended to lovely rushing Thielsen Creek and small waterfall, the first such creek on this route. Above was the north face of Mt Thielsen with a few patches of snow.
Some good points about the PCT: it is never steep, plenty of shade, tent sites are flat and right by the trail and tent pegs go in the ground easily.
I returned into the forest for my intended tent site but it was nothing special so I went on upwards and crossed clearings where the ground had markings suggesting there had been snow until recently. I met a sobo who said I was the 20th person he had seen on the trail today; I had only seen 5 hikers all day. I put up my tent at a little clearing, very pretty in the evening sun. 22 miles/35 kms
4 August I continued past clearings to the highest point on the PCT in Oregon
(I had been higher at Crater Lake) and found the loveliest spot for breakfast overlooking a ridge rising above the forest.
Lower down I had a view over Miller Lake, hazy, and next came miles of horrible downed trees; the worst are the ones I have to go under. I saw a woodpecker at work and more forest quail running along. The mozzies were bad when I stopped walking. I had hazy mountain views from the forest.
(I had been higher at Crater Lake) and found the loveliest spot for breakfast overlooking a ridge rising above the forest.
Lower down I had a view over Miller Lake, hazy, and next came miles of horrible downed trees; the worst are the ones I have to go under. I saw a woodpecker at work and more forest quail running along. The mozzies were bad when I stopped walking. I had hazy mountain views from the forest.
I was aiming for Windigo Pass where I had read there was a water cache, but I wasn't certain there would be water remaining so I rushed along (although an hour or so wouldn't make a difference). I enjoyed a long descent with occasional sighting of a high mountain range to the east. It was baking hot. When I reached the pass I was relieved to see plenty of water and there was also a box of power packs so I could charge all my devices, and some tape for more pack repairs. And tent sites. There was also an empty drinks cooler and every single person who walked in, the first thing they did was check the cooler! 18 miles/29 kms
5 August I began the day with a long climb and it was clearly going to be very hot. But no log obstacles at all (and I worked out that it's a good thing if there is horse poo on the ground as this means horses have been through recently and they wouldn't be able to get over fallen logs). I saw a raccoon. When I reached a ridge beneath Cowhorn mountain
I had wonderful views over hazy tiers of mountains to the east and high peaks to the west, with tiny ponds hidden in the forest below and some larger lakes.
Even the long descent that followed was hard work in the heat.
I had wonderful views over hazy tiers of mountains to the east and high peaks to the west, with tiny ponds hidden in the forest below and some larger lakes.
Even the long descent that followed was hard work in the heat.
I was pleased to see Summit Lake appear through the trees and I walked close to the shore; the lake had little islands. 
I stopped briefly at the picnic ground but the birds were aggressive so I went on into the forest of the Deschutes Wilderness. Another long climb punctuated by two ponds where I collected water. I was able to maintain a slow but steady pace.
I stopped briefly at the picnic ground but the birds were aggressive so I went on into the forest of the Deschutes Wilderness. Another long climb punctuated by two ponds where I collected water. I was able to maintain a slow but steady pace.
At a break in the forest near a rockfall I found a tent site in a beautiful position overlooking Summit Lake with a mountain backdrop; there was exactly space for my tent with not an inch to spare. 18 miles/29 kms
6 August I was awake at sunrise to see the mountains behind Summit Lake beautifully outlined against the pink sky. 
I was very dehydrated with almost no water left and set out earlier than usual to get to the nearest water in the cool. Water was much sooner than I expected: a running stream that I had thought would be dry. I was walking towards the Diamond Peak range, heather by the trail and altogether stunning views.
Next I was by a lovely pond at the highest point, with trees around the edge and a sobo said I was now downhill all the way to Shelter Cove. I was back in forest passing more ponds with a great silhouette view towards conical Maiden Peak in an opening through the trees.
It was easy going and not too hot, another sparkling blue lake, more stagnant ponds with lilies. Finally I reached a dirt road and then, surprisingly, crossed the railway line, then finished the morning with a sealed road alongside Odell Lake. I was greeted at the store/restaurant/boat ramp with the strong smell of diesel. Time for cold drink and muffin and coffee. Then my first shower and laundry. For dinner I had a burger and an obscene amount of tater tots that I couldn't eat half of. I worried all night how I was going to survive the next 5 days just eating bear claws; the shop was hopeless. 12 miles/19 kms
I was very dehydrated with almost no water left and set out earlier than usual to get to the nearest water in the cool. Water was much sooner than I expected: a running stream that I had thought would be dry. I was walking towards the Diamond Peak range, heather by the trail and altogether stunning views.
Next I was by a lovely pond at the highest point, with trees around the edge and a sobo said I was now downhill all the way to Shelter Cove. I was back in forest passing more ponds with a great silhouette view towards conical Maiden Peak in an opening through the trees.
It was easy going and not too hot, another sparkling blue lake, more stagnant ponds with lilies. Finally I reached a dirt road and then, surprisingly, crossed the railway line, then finished the morning with a sealed road alongside Odell Lake. I was greeted at the store/restaurant/boat ramp with the strong smell of diesel. Time for cold drink and muffin and coffee. Then my first shower and laundry. For dinner I had a burger and an obscene amount of tater tots that I couldn't eat half of. I worried all night how I was going to survive the next 5 days just eating bear claws; the shop was hopeless. 12 miles/19 kms
7 August I couldn't face one of the grossly huge cafe breakfasts, I just bought many bear claws and other rubbish for the trail, had coffee and left Shelter Cove to rejoin the PCT. I had a day of two long uphills and two long descents, the highlight being the series of 3 Rosary lakes on the first climb. The first lake was the bluest and while I was there a man with a long white beard had me listen while he sang me a homemade song. The second and third lakes were smaller and each was dominated by a different face of Pulpit Rock. 
Big heaps of boulders in the forest. As I climbed I walked close by Maiden Peak I had seen yesterday. I had a fantastic view of the later Rosary lakes and Lake Odell from above.
Big heaps of boulders in the forest. As I climbed I walked close by Maiden Peak I had seen yesterday. I had a fantastic view of the later Rosary lakes and Lake Odell from above.
Later on I became anxious because not a single hiker who had been at Shelter Cove had caught up with me despite them all being faster and walking further than me. Late in the day I passed one sobo and mentioned this to him, he said there was a small fire that had just started by one of the lakes a bit away from the trail but he couldn't see that as a reason. I heard a lot of aerial activity and became even more worried. But what could I do? I had no phone signal and I had no desire to trek all the way back to Shelter Cove. I went on to my intended camp at Charlton Lake; there was a lovely tent clearing by a big lake and unfortunately very aggressive birds, also lots of mozzies. All was still and quiet. 20 miles/32 kms
8 August I was right to be alarmed. About ten minutes after I left the lake and rejoined the trail (and entered the so called burn zone from an earlier fire) I bumped into 2 nobo hikers, Girl Scout and Cheesy, who had left Shelter Cove after me, who said that because of the fire all hikers had been advised to remain at Shelter Cove; shortly after we met a sobo who said he had seen firefighters and water bombing from choppers yesterday. Girl Scout managed to get phone signal and said the fire was 3 miles from the trail, uncontained and growing, and the wind was blowing towards us. The air became more smoky as we walked on and we could see plumes of smoke. At Irish Lake campsite after 6 miles of trail we had the option of walking out of the area on a dirt road which led to the highway, so we decided that was the safest thing to do. The dirt road was hot and monotonous. After almost 5 miles we got a lift from a couple in a ute, sitting on the tailgate! At the highway we easily got a ride to Elk Lake Resort (which is on the PCT); it was crazy busy on a big lake. I had an ice cream (massive even by US standards) and a very nice (normal size) chicken gyro for lunch/dinner.
Then I walked to Sisters Mirror Lake and camped with Girl Scout and Cheesy. So good to be back in green forest. The climb from the resort was endless, with good mountain views from a succession of ridges on the way up. I saw a deer on the trail. My theory about horse poo didn't hold up: I met two horse riders on the trail and still there were difficult fallen trees to negotiate. 19 miles/30.5 kms
9 August The lake lived up to its name: perfectly still at sunrise with lovely reflections. 
Hummingbirds. Freezing cold, coldest morning yet. Now in the Three Sisters Wilderness the trail crossed open grassland with views towards the Sisters, a few patches of snow high on South Sister.
I had a break under a tree watching a woodpecker, then crossed some running creeklets. There was much more walking in the open today, across grassland below the high Sisters peaks and it took a long time to go past North Sister.
Hummingbirds. Freezing cold, coldest morning yet. Now in the Three Sisters Wilderness the trail crossed open grassland with views towards the Sisters, a few patches of snow high on South Sister.
I had a break under a tree watching a woodpecker, then crossed some running creeklets. There was much more walking in the open today, across grassland below the high Sisters peaks and it took a long time to go past North Sister.
I met 2 hikers who said they had seen a bear yesterday further along the trail where the low bushes were full of berries; as I got there and was enjoying the huckleberries (almost blueberries but not quite) I heard people banging their hiking poles and a group of hikers said they had been waiting for a bear on the trail to move away. It had gone. There were plenty of hikers but still no PCT nobo hikers coming behind me.
I climbed past a waterfall and came to an area of obsidian rocks, shiny black pieces everywhere. A couple of nice streams where I had lunch below bare bluffs. 
After that I was surprised to cross a lava field and even more surprised to climb a steep winding lava rocks path over the lava to a pass; this wasn't pleasant, possibly the hardest part of the route so far, and below me was a pit that looked like a meteor crater. Good views of pointy peaks on the other side and a breeze.
After that I was surprised to cross a lava field and even more surprised to climb a steep winding lava rocks path over the lava to a pass; this wasn't pleasant, possibly the hardest part of the route so far, and below me was a pit that looked like a meteor crater. Good views of pointy peaks on the other side and a breeze.
The scenery became bizarre: lava flows, piles of lava chunks, gullies with lava rocks forming a half pipe, and hills of black sand with sparse trees. I found the going hard and resented the uphills, I didn't like being down in the gullies and it took forever to reach South Matthieu Lake. I should have gone on but I was exhausted and the camping looked good, I camped above the little lake in a pine alcove a bit sheltered from the wind that had come up. At the moment I feel being able to sleep in such idyllic settings could be the best aspect of the hike. I certainly find the need to walk these huge distances every day so uncomfortable. 22 miles/35 kms
10 August The lake looked lovely in the morning. 
I rejoined the trail heading downhill through a burnt area and reached a road crossing where there was a small stash of water bottles, very welcome. I crossed the road and after some irritating lava trail around a small crater I had a surprise - my first encounter with trail magic - a couple were cooking pancakes for hikers, so I had a plate and chatted.
I rejoined the trail heading downhill through a burnt area and reached a road crossing where there was a small stash of water bottles, very welcome. I crossed the road and after some irritating lava trail around a small crater I had a surprise - my first encounter with trail magic - a couple were cooking pancakes for hikers, so I had a plate and chatted.
After that I had a several mile stint crossing lava flows and craters as I worked my way to a pass; I didn't like this at all, the reflected heat, the uneven surface and the blackness all around.
I was pleased to reach a sandy trail (in more burnt forest) but this soon deteriorated into a track of lava rocks and chips. Above me was the skinny peak of Mt Washington. Then I was climbing again and on a proper trail, lots of fallen logs but no big deal, and a short time in a real living forest before another large burnt area.
I was pleased to reach a sandy trail (in more burnt forest) but this soon deteriorated into a track of lava rocks and chips. Above me was the skinny peak of Mt Washington. Then I was climbing again and on a proper trail, lots of fallen logs but no big deal, and a short time in a real living forest before another large burnt area.
I came into an area of regenerating forest punctuated with lots of open grass slopes, a bit frustrating to be in forest without shade. I turned off for Big Lake Youth Camp (the lake was surrounded by burnt trees) and went inside for a rest. I decided to walk to the highway to hitch into Sisters or Bend and camp on the trail if I couldn't get a ride. As I walked along the dirt road away from the camp a vehicle was coming so I thought I might as well try for a lift and the guy stopped; he was a camp counsellor and he took me into Sisters where I found a motel room. 18 miles/29 kms
11 August (Day 16) Rest day in Sisters.
12 August A trail angel drove me half an hour to Santiam Pass just a couple of miles further along the PCT from where I had left off. I entered the Mt Jefferson Wilderness and embarked on a 7 mile climb. Most of the day I was in burnt out forest with pale grey tree trunks, fir saplings and fireweed and lupins. It was unattractive but meant the panoramic mountain views were not obscured by foliage. There were lots of ponds and lakes dotted about. It was cooler than before and there were some clouds. I emerged beneath the huge bulk of craggy Three Fingered Jack, having to contour massive scree falls on narrow switchbacks. 
After descending I passed a little pond and completely dry pond basin. I was pleased that there were a few hikers around because it meant the fires weren't a problem here.
After descending I passed a little pond and completely dry pond basin. I was pleased that there were a few hikers around because it meant the fires weren't a problem here.
The next climb took me up to another ridge with extensive views of forest, burnt and unburnt, and I could see where I had come from Three Fingered Jack and even Mt Washington. I had a conical forested mountain in sight almost all day but couldn't identify it.
It was quite windy but when I reached my destination, another lovely tent site by a lake (Rockpile Lake with a high sloping rocky embankment on one side) all was calm. I was able to put my tent very close to the water. 14 miles/22.5 kms
It was quite windy but when I reached my destination, another lovely tent site by a lake (Rockpile Lake with a high sloping rocky embankment on one side) all was calm. I was able to put my tent very close to the water. 14 miles/22.5 kms
13 August Condensation on my tent in the morning for the first time. The air was smoky and although I had extensive views they were hazy with a distinct dark band of pollution on the horizon. Again there were plenty of hikers about. I was in nice forest walking towards Mt Jefferson (3201 m, bare slopes, scree, a few trees) with increasingly good views until Jefferson Pass. 
I started to skirt the mountain, lots of little lakes below; Hunts Lake tucked under a rocky slope was lovely.
I came to Shale Lake in an area of shale followed by several miles of downhill in forest.
I started to skirt the mountain, lots of little lakes below; Hunts Lake tucked under a rocky slope was lovely.
I came to Shale Lake in an area of shale followed by several miles of downhill in forest.
I crossed a creek and began an ascent that was going to take all afternoon into the evening. For the first mile I was in rejuvenating forest then I went over a hump and all I could see in every direction was burnt trees covering every hillside. It looked awful. And the walking was awful too: one fallen log blocking the path after another for miles, my bag would get impaled, I would get stuck, I got badly scraped. I was almost in tears. At the top of this part of the climb I had to cross a fast flowing frothy creek that came straight down from a glacier on Mt Jefferson; it was quite scary and I managed to scramble across using logs and rocks, my hat fell into the water but luckily was snagged on a rock.
From then things improved. The next creek (milky white) had a small wooden bridge (most unusual to see infrastructure on the trail) and I reached an area of meadows which was very pretty; looking back I could see huge glaciers on Mt Jefferson. There were several flowing streams and lots of wildflowers. The climb continued and became steeper, rougher and I thought I would never reach the top. I was exhausted but I had to go on until I could find somewhere to camp as there was just loose rock beside the trail.
Finally I saw a summit cairn (2095 m) and right by it were 2 tiny tent clearings, only one was big enough for my tent and it wasn't great because there was a rock in the middle. The whole summit area was a wasteland of rock flows and the air was smoky, but I did have a bird's eye view of the entire bulk of Mt Jefferson. 23 miles/37 kms
14 August Beautiful view in all directions in the morning and a hummingbird.
I crossed the vast expanse of rockfalls and scree, went into some pockets of living forest and came to a lake surrounded by dead trees. On the way I could see that the next valley eastwards was full of smoke and for a while I heard helicopters. I came to a second lake also surrounded by dead trees. From high up I could already see Olallie Lake tucked into dead forest. I was walking as quickly as I could through the burnt areas and once I veered onto another trail by mistake; in returning to the PCT I somehow deleted my Far Out which was a big worry; I could use another app but it wasn't the same. I was very relieved to get to Olallie Lake cabins and store. It was smoky. The store was a real disappointment despite the five star billing it gives itself with no cooked food and only rubbish for sale, and no internet for fixing my Far Out. Later the woman there was helpful and I found they had wraps.
I crossed the vast expanse of rockfalls and scree, went into some pockets of living forest and came to a lake surrounded by dead trees. On the way I could see that the next valley eastwards was full of smoke and for a while I heard helicopters. I came to a second lake also surrounded by dead trees. From high up I could already see Olallie Lake tucked into dead forest. I was walking as quickly as I could through the burnt areas and once I veered onto another trail by mistake; in returning to the PCT I somehow deleted my Far Out which was a big worry; I could use another app but it wasn't the same. I was very relieved to get to Olallie Lake cabins and store. It was smoky. The store was a real disappointment despite the five star billing it gives itself with no cooked food and only rubbish for sale, and no internet for fixing my Far Out. Later the woman there was helpful and I found they had wraps.
I was going to stay there but it was depressing with nobody around so I walked on, initially in burnt area then forest. The woman had said there was phone service where I went under power lines but there was none. I came into the Warm Springs Indian reservation and when I got to Jude Lake I stopped, hoping other hikers would show up; they did and I got some info to make up for my lack of gps. It wasn't a very nice lake and I couldn't get clear water. In the evening it started raining! 14 miles/22.5 kms
15 August I set out into the forest, still misty with smoke, and no views but it was nice green forest, tall healthy pines, lots of rhododendron. There was a spring right on the trail where I had breakfast. Saw a stag with big antlers. I got my Far Out back after 9 miles, huge relief. It was a strange day being in the forest the entire time with some long descents and not too much climbing. I had come down to 1300 m. The Americans described the trail here as mellow. 
Barely any blow downs that had not been moved aside. The main event was the Warm Springs River at the lowest point in the forest, which I crossed on a log bridge and chatted with some hikers. The sky cleared later on for a nice late afternoon. I camped at a little tent site by the trail. 22 miles/35 kms
Barely any blow downs that had not been moved aside. The main event was the Warm Springs River at the lowest point in the forest, which I crossed on a log bridge and chatted with some hikers. The sky cleared later on for a nice late afternoon. I camped at a little tent site by the trail. 22 miles/35 kms
16 August Misty at first, still in forest and I reached the Clackamas River, noisy but I didn't see much of it from the forest. Entered Mt Hood wilderness. Soon I realised I was beside Timothy Lake but few views towards it. The sky cleared to blue with pleasant dappled sunlight in the forest. I came to a clearing by a spring, got water (while a frog stared me down), and ate cold soaked noodles (horrible). Then I was walking along a ridge and had my first views of Mt Hood, a puff of cloud hiding the summit (3402 m), very healthy forest all around and meadows far below. It looked magnificent. 
A garter snake (black with long yellow lines) slithered off the path as I approached it. As I descended to cross a major highway I was thinking to myself this would be a good time for trail magic as my food supplies were so low and I had a long water carry; I crossed the highway and there was the trail magic: a group of trail angels serving root beer floats and hot dogs! They also gave me an apple and a muesli bar for the trail. Although I was always sceptical of this trail magic thing it definitely has a place out in the wilderness. It had been a quiet day for them and they seemed pleased to see me.
A garter snake (black with long yellow lines) slithered off the path as I approached it. As I descended to cross a major highway I was thinking to myself this would be a good time for trail magic as my food supplies were so low and I had a long water carry; I crossed the highway and there was the trail magic: a group of trail angels serving root beer floats and hot dogs! They also gave me an apple and a muesli bar for the trail. Although I was always sceptical of this trail magic thing it definitely has a place out in the wilderness. It had been a quiet day for them and they seemed pleased to see me.
I was back in the forest, there was a flurry of day hikers coming from some lakes I couldn't see then I kept going until I found a tent site right by the trail. A nice still evening with internet. 21 miles/34 kms
17 August I left my tent spot before sunrise because I was excited about getting to Timberline. Half a mile down the trail I stopped for breakfast and there was a toilet. The next part was uneventful dark forest until I reached a running stream and the sun came out; the under storey was thick with those fruitless huckleberry bushes. It was a gentle climb until the last 1.4 miles where I came out into the open for a fabulous view of Mt Hood, little meadows, sparse low trees but mainly sandy slopes.
In the other direction there were mountains to the horizon. This section was difficult because the trail was steeper, soft sand underfoot and in places I was walking over sand dunes. I got up to just over 1800 m. I saw rivers rushing down from the summit - low flow but huge gullies - and fairly soon I could see Timberline Lodge a couple of gullies away. I crossed the Salmon River (almost no water but a wide gorge)
and reached the lodge. It was only 9.30 but I was able to check in to my half price room. I had a shower, found that unfortunately the washing machine was out of order and had bacon and eggs in the restaurant. I was a bit shocked at how hungry I was. I took the bus to Sandy in the valley to buy food. 6 miles/10 kms
In the other direction there were mountains to the horizon. This section was difficult because the trail was steeper, soft sand underfoot and in places I was walking over sand dunes. I got up to just over 1800 m. I saw rivers rushing down from the summit - low flow but huge gullies - and fairly soon I could see Timberline Lodge a couple of gullies away. I crossed the Salmon River (almost no water but a wide gorge)
and reached the lodge. It was only 9.30 but I was able to check in to my half price room. I had a shower, found that unfortunately the washing machine was out of order and had bacon and eggs in the restaurant. I was a bit shocked at how hungry I was. I took the bus to Sandy in the valley to buy food. 6 miles/10 kms
18 August After another nice breakfast I left the lodge, intending to have an easy day. The trail contoured around Mt Hood under a perfect blue sky. I could see Mt Jefferson's glaciers above a cloud inversion and also the Three Sisters. I had to cross several gullies, all beautiful. 
The flanks of Mt Hood were sandy with scattered boulders rather than the usual rock flows.
In one place the sandy slopes formed a huge amphitheatre with a tiny waterfall on one side. The trail was busy and then suddenly there was nobody. When it was in forest there were numerous streams by the path, little waterfalls above and damp ground; felt strange after all the dryness elsewhere. I heard and saw helicopters ferrying water but they weren't close. I had a long descent to Sandy River and had to cross its several branches with the aid of stepping stones and logs. The view up the mountainside was amazing. There was a school group on the river bank, the first people I'd seen for ages.
The flanks of Mt Hood were sandy with scattered boulders rather than the usual rock flows.
In one place the sandy slopes formed a huge amphitheatre with a tiny waterfall on one side. The trail was busy and then suddenly there was nobody. When it was in forest there were numerous streams by the path, little waterfalls above and damp ground; felt strange after all the dryness elsewhere. I heard and saw helicopters ferrying water but they weren't close. I had a long descent to Sandy River and had to cross its several branches with the aid of stepping stones and logs. The view up the mountainside was amazing. There was a school group on the river bank, the first people I'd seen for ages.
I detoured to Ramona Falls, the water splaying out over mossy granite blocks. 
Then a cute side trail that followed the Ramona creek in the forest, little pools and babbling along, log bridges. Next I had to pay for my morning's long descent with a steep uphill in dense forest, lots of switchbacks. At the top was a selection of tent sites and I ate dinner with Ghostie while a deer looked on. I hoped it wouldn't disturb me in the night. 16 miles/25.7 kms
Then a cute side trail that followed the Ramona creek in the forest, little pools and babbling along, log bridges. Next I had to pay for my morning's long descent with a steep uphill in dense forest, lots of switchbacks. At the top was a selection of tent sites and I ate dinner with Ghostie while a deer looked on. I hoped it wouldn't disturb me in the night. 16 miles/25.7 kms
19 August A bit cloudy but cleared. I was in forest most of the day, popping out for a good view of the north side of Mt Hood. Some high granite bluffs above and a few rockfalls to cross. There were masses of salmon berry bushes (tastes like raspberry) but I think other hikers had eaten all the ripe fruit. At a flowing creek by the trail I had a chat with some section hikers and again at the next creek with a section hiker and his dog. I had occasional glimpses from a high ridge of snow capped Mt Adams in Washington and a view over a large lake. On both sides of the ridge were densely forested mountains.
The path changed direction and I again had views towards Mt Hood.
I felt I was always climbing but maybe I was just tired. Fat birds in the trees made a din. I changed direction again and crossed many rock flows. On the flank of Indian Summit I had another view of Mt Adams and masses of mountains. Within a short while I arrived at Indian Springs and a large camping area with a picnic table, seemed even dustier than usual. I watched a chipmunk run extremely fast from tree to tree along high branches. 16.5 miles/26.5 kms
I felt I was always climbing but maybe I was just tired. Fat birds in the trees made a din. I changed direction again and crossed many rock flows. On the flank of Indian Summit I had another view of Mt Adams and masses of mountains. Within a short while I arrived at Indian Springs and a large camping area with a picnic table, seemed even dustier than usual. I watched a chipmunk run extremely fast from tree to tree along high branches. 16.5 miles/26.5 kms
20 August Today was all downhill to sea level and a little different. I went down the Indian Springs trail 
(some blow downs near the end) to the Eagle Creek trail and began a great day of creek side walking; this trail is a highly recommended alternate to the PCT. After a short while I was on sheer cliffs above the creek
and already passing high waterfalls, some dropping into pools, others into the creek through narrow clefts in the rocks.
In places the path was below sheer granite cliffs with a straight drop off below. The main event was Tunnel Falls accessed by a high exposed section of trail: a very high waterfall with a short tunnel blasted in the rock so walkers could get past the falls behind the water.
(some blow downs near the end) to the Eagle Creek trail and began a great day of creek side walking; this trail is a highly recommended alternate to the PCT. After a short while I was on sheer cliffs above the creek
and already passing high waterfalls, some dropping into pools, others into the creek through narrow clefts in the rocks.
In places the path was below sheer granite cliffs with a straight drop off below. The main event was Tunnel Falls accessed by a high exposed section of trail: a very high waterfall with a short tunnel blasted in the rock so walkers could get past the falls behind the water.
The path undulated past more waterfalls and came down to cross the creek on a footbridge. This was an area of boulders and smaller rocks and the only time I could access the creek itself. The trail returned to being high above the creek and crossed the it on a high footbridge where it entered calmly into a narrow gorge.
There had been fires on the hillsides and in many places there were hundreds of logs backed up by or in the river. More high bridges. There were dozens of day hikers, many of whom looked rather unprepared (it was very hot and no shade and no water access) and several asked me how far they had to go (without always specifying which falls). After more waterfalls and several more stretches on rock ledges above a sheer drop off I eventually reached the car park. I saw a sign advertising trail magic down the road and I looked around but couldn't find any trail angels. At the end of the road I went onto the Gorge trail and began to climb; suddenly I was at the trail magic. I had a Dr Pepper and a chat with the trail angel, who was looking after an 8 week old puppy.
I continued on this trail and soon there was a trail closed sign due to a landslide; I had read about this so I went straight on and the disruption was no worse than a couple of blow downs joined together on rough ground. Then the trail was an abandoned paved road and easy walking, with blackberries. It was alongside the highway though and noisier than I've been used to. I came into Cascade Locks - the only time on my hike that the PCT goes into a village or town - passing the Bridge of the Gods on the Columbia River which marks the boundary between Oregon and Washington. 
I checked into a motel; my room was fine but I just couldn't get the shower to work. 16 miles/25.7 kms
I checked into a motel; my room was fine but I just couldn't get the shower to work. 16 miles/25.7 kms
426 miles/685 kms in Oregon
21 August (Day 26) Rest day in Portland.
22 August Rest day in Portland.
