O Camiño dos Faros, Spain

I'm partial to a coast walk so the Camiño dos Faros in Galicia appealed to me, with lots of beaches and lots of cliff top walking. Could be very wet which wasn't so appealing. The logistics of the early days gave me a challenge.

14 October I took a bus from A Coruña to Carballo and another to Malpica for the trail start. I had intended to wait a day before starting out but I walked to the lighthouse (#1) at the far end of the little port, turned around and commenced my Camiño.

Starting a day early messed up my planning but there was nothing to do in Malpica, although it was a pretty place with colourful buildings stacked on the hillside. I crossed over to the ocean beach promenade above a sandy beach, full of noisy gulls. I detoured to my hotel to check in and leave my bag, and had a second breakfast at the only open cafe.

I walked along the beach promenade and then climbed onto a gorse/fern covered hillside. It was a grey day, pleasant walking temperature. The path was fairly close to the cliff edge, passing little beaches and rocky coves and I could see the coastline was very indented. Soon I saw the Sisargas islands (with lighthouse #2). There was a distinct ocean smell. Temporarily it felt remote, then I could see a wind farm and a village on the coast ahead. I descended to the little beach at Beo and back up to the road on a staircase that was still under construction. I took a minor road back to Malpica through crop fields. 13.4 kms

15 October I left Malpica in intermittent rain with a last look at the beach

and returned to Beo via a different set of villages, rejoining the trail at a lovely bay.

I stayed on the low cliffs until descending to a sandy beach where I had to wade through a little creek. I walked along the beach and climbed through the scrub to a contouring path with a view of yesterday's coastline under low cloud. All too soon I rounded the point and arrived at today's destination, an isolated pensión. I was the only person staying there and in the evening I ate my peppers stuffed with cod alone in the restaurant, with a fabulous view out over the ocean. 8.5 kms

16 October It was raining when I got up and the pensión owner was gloomy about the weather and said I would be cutting my walk short but it wasn't bad at all. I left as soon as it was light at 8.30 and headed past the scattered houses, crossed a white sandy beach and climbed over a saddle to another bay, then the real walking began. I climbed on a rough rocky trail to the cliff top and undulated along with the ocean on one side and bracken fern covered hillsides on the other with large boulders. There was a bit of scrambling. The weather was already improving. I got a glimpse of Punta Nariga lighthouse (#3) and had a long series of ups and downs to reach it.

After that the going was easier along a rocky stretch of coast. I came to Niñons beach, then crossed an even prettier beach and more followed. 

The trail went inland into trees, crossed another beach and became steeply undulating with amazing views up and down the rugged coast. After a while I could see Punta Nariga lighthouse again and all the coastline I had walked, in nice sunshine. It was tiring though, constantly climbing up a headland then descending to cross a stream or rocky bay and I was glad to reach the little village of O Roncudo. I ate lunch by a couple of the local barns on stilts (horreos).

I left the trail, walked steeply down the road to Corme, had coffee and asked the barman to call me a taxi; the driver took me to Ponteceso and then helped me check in to my hotel as the owner wasn't around. 21 kms

17 October Taxi to Corme then I walked back up to cliff top O Roncudo along gravel roads and tracks, and reached the trail as the sun came out. It was windy and the water was rougher. The path contoured the grassy/ferny hillside with big boulders and Roncudo lighthouse (#4) came into view beyond some more inlets.

It was a low lighthouse in a wonderful setting. I rounded the point on a path through the boulders and walked on the road into Corme, with views across the large bay to Laxe. I stopped for coffee in Corme which was much livelier than yesterday. 

I left Corme via two small beaches, a bit of damp forest and a lovely white beach, before returning to a fairly level path ten metres above the water. Corme was more attractive from a distance: steeply layered colourful houses. The trail stayed low until reaching vertical cliffs where I had to climb to the windy top for a great view and then a descent in eucalyptus forest to a beautiful beach. I crossed the beach and walked a low headland. At the end was a huge estuary and massive sand dunes. The trail wound between the dunes and pine forest then reached the estuary edge and followed it to Ponteceso, the last part on a levee between the river and wetlands. 20 kms

18 October I crossed the bridge over the Anllóns River, went uphill for a view over the estuary and came down for an hour of nice walking beside the river. It rained but soon cleared.

The trail makes a big inland detour and I was unsure whether it was worthwhile but I'm glad I did it. I walked alongside a fast flowing stream in oak forest, climbing gradually, turning off for the track to the Castro de Borneiro which was quite a surprise: hidden in the forest were the remains of lots of circular stone houses dating from 200 BC.

A kilometre further on I visited the Dolmen de Dombate, a burial mound comprising big stone slabs, roof and corridor from 3600 BC. I went through the next village and climbed in pine forest to the top of Castelo de Lourido, 312 m, with views across the bay of the coast from Roncudo lighthouse to Ponteceso (including the cliffs I had climbed which looked impressive from this side) and to Laxe, a large town on a white curving beach.

The many hills inland were misty. The descent was long, first forest then a series of villages (plenty of horreos) all very quiet. I was almost back where I had been hours ago.

I walked out to the coast and passed two lovely beaches

 contouring through ferns, and climbed to the top of a couple of promontories. I could still see Roncudo lighthouse and Corme all the way. The first time I saw Laxe again it looked close but wasn't. The trail rounded more inlets keeping fairly high then I came into civilisation abruptly and walked along the Laxe promenade behind the dunes. Biggest distance I've walked since January. The old town had narrow streets and an austere 14th century church I was able to go inside. 25 kms

19 October It was pouring when I got up but improved to misty rain. I went up the road to Laxe lighthouse (#5) but there was no view. I took the trail right by the water around some rocky ribs and passing an oceanfront cemetery, then climbed to the grassy/bouldery top of the next headland. The view from the top was a real gem: a curve of white sand ahead,

the Laxe peninsula and Laxe beach behind.

I was happy to get the views despite the misty day. I took off my rain clothes. The descent was nasty as the rocks were wet but I was able to walk the beach I had seen. 

More coastal paths with the coastline visible back a very long way, then a dirt road between the ocean and pine forest. Another long beach but the trail went behind it to give access to a wetland and lagoon. This ended at a village with a bar so I went in for coffee. The bar was busy with men drinking red wine and eating anchovy sandwiches.

The path continued alongside the beach, rounded a few points and I came to an area filled with weird boulder formations; I had nice glimpses of colourful Camelle arranged along the west side of an inlet.

I had my introduction to flooding on the trail. The next kilometre was in pine forest and very flooded. I came into Camelle and had another coffee in the port area. Then around two more bays to Arou with a tiny sandy beach and I got there as the rain returned. 19 kms

20 October The wind was crazy in the night. As I walked to the cafe for breakfast I could see the Laxe lighthouse flashing. I left Arou in light rain - very pretty looking back

 and started around some bouldery inlets including a climb with a tricky descent on the wet rock. I came to a huge vegetated sand dune I had to skirt on a sandy track, passing lovely beaches.

I came over a headland and noticed two friendly dogs were following me; they stayed right behind me for a kilometre then vanished. This was all slow going and the trail was again flooded. I reached the walled English cemetery with memorials to sailors from the 1890s and then had my first sighting of the Cabo Vilan lighthouse (#6). It has a spectacular setting at the tip of a promontory with big rocks off the end. 

I walked towards the lighthouse on a dirt road with increasingly great views, as the sun came out,

until the setting was no longer apparent and it just looked like a lighthouse on a hillside, so I turned to follow the west facing coast for Camariñas. I could immediately see the Ermita da Virxe do Monte on a cliff top. This coast was windy. I walked an undulating dirt track above rocky inlets, with a view of Muxia across the bay, turning off for a visit to the stone chapel (closed). The trail descended to a so-so beach and went through pine trees. I passed a tiny lighthouse (#7). Even though Camariñas is a large town I couldn't see it until I was right in the port, and I walked along the waterfront as the rain started. It was a bleak wet Sunday evening. I couldn't see anywhere that would be open to eat until I noticed a bar right by my hotel which appeared to have the whole town inside. 22 kms

21 October it was raining heavily while I had breakfast and I only left town once it stopped; I didn't mind this. I had another large estuary to get around. I went along a wet grassy track, through pine forest, saw a flock of herons. The water was still and black. I stopped for coffee in the first village. Then I walked alongside the River Porto, back in pine forest. I could see men harvesting the bright green seaweed. I went through a large but deserted picnic area and walked a short stretch along the beach - saw a line of cormorants on a rocky ridge in the river - then had another coffee when I got back to the road.

The last part was an exercise in avoiding the main road, going through a couple of villages (one had a horreo sheltering lots of cats) and into a eucalyptus plantation. In sunshine. I returned to the main road and was soon in Ponte do Porto. The town was centred on an old bridge over the river and several places were open, unlike Malpica last Monday. 13.5 kms

22 October I was given a big breakfast, all alone, at the hotel. I crossed the bridge and walked along the river to Cereixo, a village with a church and, nearby, two stone towers. I went a bit inland on the road then soon I descended back to the river for a tranquil walk in forest. I could see Camariñas across the bay. I emerged at an ocean beach, now having left the estuary,

then a tiny lighthouse on a point (#8), followed by another beach that clearly expected crowds in season, with several closed hotels and restaurants. From there I took the road through a couple of villages, hoping for an open cafe but no luck.

I was on the road for a while before I came to duckboard through a wetland area and a windswept beach, and I went back into forest. At the highest point I had a sudden glimpse of Muxia in sunshine and I could again see the Cabo Vilan lighthouse (but not so spectacular from here). I came down to the water, with Muxia fully in view, a rocky hill behind the town, and I crossed a final beach, unfortunately getting a wet foot when I met a stream.

Muxia was a shock: it was crammed with people and all the waterfront cafes were full; I went to a bar in a back street which was nicely out of the wind. After going to my hotel I went for a walk around the rocky hill to the Sanctuario de Nosa Señora de Barca,

fantastic setting on the rocky promontory but unbearably windy, with small Muxia lighthouse (#9) nearby. 22 kms

23 October Perfect blue sky for the first time. I road walked out of Muxia then crossed a beach and climbed steeply up Monte Cachelmo. I had a view over Muxia, the bay and as far back as Cabo Vilan. In the forward direction I could already see the Cabo Touriñan lighthouse and many small bays. Then a steep rocky descent, I rounded an inlet and went out to Punta de Buitra, more views in all directions from the summit.

Blue sea. Blue sky. Not a breath of wind.

I descended through a lot of gorse, crossed meadows behind a beach and started the long climb up Monte Pedrouzo, mostly in gorse. The summit was odd: a meadow with several piles of boulders; the views of Cabo Touriñan and the smaller promontory in front were great.

The descent was mostly ok, not too steep until the end and I came out at Praia de Moreira, a lovely beach.

From there I went past fields (and cows) to Cabo Touriñan and did the prescribed loop out to the lighthouse (#10). This was a bit of a slog on undulating grass with lots of boulders, a pretty island was a distraction and I saw a snake but I was getting very hot. The lighthouse was medium sized and white and tucked away, like Cabo Vilan it looked better from a distance. Then I walked along the road and turned off for Praia de Nemiña, where I was relieved to find a tap. This was a beautiful sweep of sand and I walked a little way along before climbing to an undulating path through trees. I had another estuary to get around with several kilometres to the first bridge. This involved some forest trails in poor condition, many waterfalls cascading onto the trail, fallen trees and flooded trail. I reached the bridge, just like the one at Ponte do Porto, and walked up into Lires at 7pm. It was a long day. 30 kms

24 October I woke to a grey day with heavy rain forecast. I decided to walk as far as possible on the trail and bale for the road to Fisterra once necessary. I walked above the estuary out of Lires with a good view of Praia de Nemiña and was soon back on cliffs. I came to the first headland Punta Lagoa with a view back along the coast and with Praia de Rostro ahead (my first chance to leave the trail)

 As I went on the views of the rugged coast were great.

I descended to long Praia de Rostro and after some trouble having to avoid a stream I managed to get onto it; I walked a kilometre on the sand with the wind in my face. The hillsides were in black cloud. Then I climbed to the Castro de Castromiñan for a view over smallish but golden Praia de Arnela.

The trail on the cliff edge became very exposed and windy so I scrambled through the gorse to a parallel path that was higher, had the same views and felt safer. Eventually this path, full of gorse and blackberry, descended to a village and I decided to cross the peninsula for Fisterra as the weather wasn't improving. I found a route through villages and detoured to the main road for a cafe. From there I walked along the beach (on the east side of the peninsula) into Fisterra and through the town to my hotel; there was a horreo right beside the hotel. Walkers everywhere. It was soon raining and zero viz. 17.5 kms

25 October Yes! It stopped raining while I had breakfast and I returned to the trail at Praia Mar de Fora, walked the beach and then through a village, out on a sunken cobbled path, and a final climb up Monte de Facho in sunshine. On the way I had my first view of Cabo Fisterra and the lighthouse perched on the rocks at the edge of the world.

Apart from that I had run out of coastline to look at. I descended on a narrow road and walked out to the lighthouse (#11), an unattractive square building with lighthouse tower attached behind.

Just as I got there it poured. Luckily there was a cafe. O Camiño dos Faros is done.

I went back up the hill and over Monte Guillermo, passing ruins of a chapel, then descended to Fisterra on a grass path via Iglesia de Nostra Señora das Areas (open) and ended up walking cobbled streets through the town. 11 kms

Total 223 kms

Overnight bike ride

With two days of good weather coming as a break from the constant rain I had to go for an overnight bike trip, my first this year.

October 2 I took the train to Lilydale and got onto the Warburton rail trail. Again I had difficulty finding the start. I have a love hate relationship with this trail because of all the times I've run on it for the Trailwalker but it is a lovely trail to ride, especially on a sunny day. The stretches in the bush are nice and the views of the mountains around Donna Buang are great. Everything is so green now. Near Woori Yallock I had a problem with a swooping magpie and this prompted me to go to the bakery. Another magpie was waiting for me on the road back to the trail. At Yarra Junction I turned onto the Noojee road and had an undulating ride to Powelltown, although I found it hard because I haven't ridden any hills all year. After a short break in Powelltown I continued and immediately had a 5 km serious hill which was seriously hard. It was mostly in forest. Parrots. On the descent I got quite cold. I passed the High Lead car park and after more undulations I turned off for the Latrobe River campsite. Last visit, the weekend lockdown finished, it was overflowing with people but I had expected to be alone there today, midweek; I had forgotten it was school holidays and the place was packed. I strolled down to the river. I put up my tent (the one I hadn't used for over a year) in the picnic area. Well, I tried to put it up but I found that the zips on the inner were all seized up and I had to unclip it and just use the fly for shelter. I was concerned about the mozzies buzzing around, luckily they went away at night. 64 kms

October 3 The beautiful tall trees were shrouded in mist at first, then more sunshine.

First up a nasty climb to a plateau with views back to the Yarra Ranges and towards Mt Baw Baw. I just don't feel very fit. I stopped to make coffee at a rest area overlooking the Tarago Reservoir.

After that a pleasant surprise - an off road trail, sometimes beside the road and sometimes well away from it in bush. It undulated a lot and was rough but I was oblivious to the road. Then a smooth rail trail deep in forest, all downhill. I emerged at Rokeby to follow rural roads with distant mountain views. I had a welcome descent towards Drouin and the last few kms were a bike trail through wetlands and parks until I reached the town and the station. 46 kms

Mt Remarkable National Park

When I did the section of the Heysen Trail that went through Mt Remarkable National Park I seriously considered making up an alternative route through a more iconic part of the park but I decided I should stay on the approved course. Now I had my chance to do the more interesting route and I worked out a four day undemanding loop for my return to overnight hiking. This was in the western part of the park, away from Mt Remarkable.

September 6 The trail started in the Mambray Creek valley crossing the creek a few times. After a while I climbed to the Sugar Gum lookout with a limited view of forested peaks and then the trail continued to climb relentlessly along a ridge with steadily improving views over the park, many peaks and the Spencer Gulf, pine trees and low grass trees. I kept getting the impression I was near the top but I had to go on climbing. The flies were bad. From the highest point I had a very steep descent, so steep that there was wire mesh over the track. I went up again equally steeply followed by a more gradual descent to Sugar Gum Dam campsite. This was a really secluded spot among the trees, a small dam with black water and good reflections and a giant water tank (with water), no shelter.

It looked like it could rain. An emu came for a look around. Then it began raining. I was cold so I got into bed, and soon I was surrounded by mist. The rain was blown away in the night and the stars came out. 12 kms

September 7 The trail rejoined the creek and undulated through sparser woodland, I saw a pair of emus. At the top I could see the Mt Remarkable range. Then I joined the Heysen for a section of "walkers follow fence". I turned onto the Woods Hut trail and was on a steep roller coaster through a succession of grassy gorges. Lots of kangaroos. Next the Tower track with a really steep kilometre to a tower (729m); the views were less obscured by trees further on, looking out towards the farmland north and the park, and I could glimpse the red walls of Alligator Gorge. I had 3 kms on the road down to a parking area and I walked out to sit for coffee at a gorge lookout towards sheer red cliffs. Some people were excited about a rufous whistler and when I looked up it was in the tree above me. The last stretch to the camping area was in pine/gum forest down to Blue Gum Flat (where I expected water but there was none) and on to Longhill campsite. It was very still and quiet apart from the birds and I saw a robin with a bright red chest. 16 kms

September 8 Lots of lovely birdsong when I got up and surprisingly cool. I had a long gradual climb on a fire trail to the entrance to Alligator Gorge, several euros (local kangaroo with black feet) jumping around. Immediately I was in a huge wooded bowl and soon I was by the creek. The gorge was wonderful: increasingly frequent red walls, dry rock pools at the base of dry waterfalls and very occasionally water in the creek.

The walls became higher and although I was in shade the cliffs shone bright red in the sunshine. The going was rocky and sometimes I walked in the creek. At the Terraces the creek descended on rock slabs. There was more water here and minuscule cascades between the slabs. I went up to the car park to get water and then sat by the creek for morning tea. After that I walked through the Narrows on Alligator Creek where, at one point, the sides of the gorge were only slightly more than my arm span apart.

I came back to Blue Gum Flat, a short way from last night's camp, and turned onto Kingfisher track which was a wide dirt road through dry bush, acacias and pines. I had good views towards the southern peaks. It was warm but not hot and the sky was all blue. I stopped for lunch at Kingfisher campsite which was in a huge clearing with a water tank. I started to parallel red walls again, crossed Alligator Creek and reached Hidden campsite, and picked a spot across a creek from the red rocks.

16 kms

September 9 I set off into Hidden Gorge and straight away I was surrounded by high cliffs.

The going was rocky, some creek walking on rocks and slabs. It was impressive, such high sides to such a small creek. There was a huge rockfall to negotiate and many tree/rock obstacles.

The rock walls became lower and then I was climbing out of the gorge on a scrubby hillside. I came to a tower just as it started raining lightly. I took the walking trail down towards Mambray Creek; at first it was along a ridge with constant views over farmland and Spencer Gulf, the park peaks were partly in cloud. Then the final descent among pines to my car. There were a pair of emus in the car park to greet me. 11 kms

Total 55 kms

September 10. I couldn't come to this park without going up Mt Remarkable, especially as I had barely seen it, so I parked in Melrose and embarked on a loop hike. So as not to repeat myself I started with the southern summit trail and returned on the northern summit trail (which is the Heysen). Both trails were similar with views over Melrose, farmland and distant peaks on the eastern horizon. Lower down the trees were sparser giving better views. The trails crossed numerous vast scree slopes of smallish red rocks.

From the highest point on the southern trail I had a couple of kms in forest as I followed the ridge to the main peak (960 m). There's still not much of a view from the summit but descending the northern trail I initially had views towards Spencer Gulf and the hills I hiked in the past few days.

16 kms

Townsville

When I went to Townsville for the marathon in 2004 I was surprised at how nice it was, especially the long trail along the shore facing Magnetic Island and lots of outdoor cafes. (Even then I didn't remember anything from my visit in 1989 to start my bike ride to Broome.) I thought it would be a good place to go this winter as part of my recovery to do some longer walks in warm weather.

August 7 Castle Hill was top of the list. The red rock towers over Townsville and I had run up it twice. This time I walked along the esplanade to Rowes Bay, going over the headland at Kissing Point with its WW2 forts. I wanted to approach the peak a different way from before and I walked streets until I reached the Cudtheringa track to the top. There were hundreds of rock steps and my heart rate was absolutely maxing out because of my strange virus. The trail was through dry bush and it was hot. I came onto the road for the last bit. At the top there were several short trails I hadn't done before, so I did them all, to forts, the summit (286 m) and viewpoints.

I came down on the road (because the other trails looked too rough for me at the moment) and through the botanic gardens. 14 kms

August 8 Cape Pallarenda was next. I hadn't been there before. It's 10 kms out of Townsville and I caught the bus! I had planned an ambitious hike which was almost too much on this hot day. I walked to Shelly Cove and passed some more forts, then started on the Under the Radar trail, a walking/bike trail. Early on there were a few bikes. The trail undulated a lot and had many unnecessary hairpins, through dry forest. Soon I had views over the sandy expanses of Shelly Beach. From higher points I had views of the water and little islands. Castle Hill was prominent in views towards the city. The trail crossed dry creeks and one filled with mangroves. There were also big areas of woodland. I was trying to conserve my water and with constant coughing my mouth was like parchment. Eventually I came to a junction and I turned onto a flatter trail which took me to the inland part of the park. For the last part I walked beneath the Many Peaks range along the edge of extensive lagoons, very green and full of water fowl. I was quite exhausted and disappointed to miss the bus by a few minutes. I walked a little way to the Pallarenda settlement and was amazed to find a cafe so I went there for ice cream and a soft drink. 17 kms

August 9 I returned to Cape Pallarenda for another hike. This time I took the Many Peaks trail up Mt Marlow (218 m). The ascent was rocky, mostly in dry forest with lots of hanging vines and huge boulders and a comfortable gradient. There were plenty of openings with views towards the lagoons and Magnetic Island. The last part was grassy hillsides. Another walker was sitting at the summit and kindly named the islands we could see. There was a pleasant breeze.

The descent was easier than I expected contouring grassy slopes in woodland, no more rocky steps. I reached the bottom by a huge boulder, Bald Rock.

From there I took the Freshwater trail through the wetlands with thousands of water birds. 11.8 kms

 

Mallee Parks revisited

 I started my trip to the Mallee parks with a quick visit to Lake Tyrrell, Victoria's largest salt lake. There was a short walkway across samphire flats passing little pools to the edge of the main lake. I was surprised how big it was. 2.8 kms

Then I went on to Kings Billabong near Red Cliffs. I couldn't drive right to the parking area so I had to walk a bit extra. Almost immediately I surprised some kangaroos. I did a loop around the parcel of land enclosed by the billabong and Ducksfoot Lagoon. The billabong was full of pelicans and ducks and very calm. I walked to a bird hide through buloke woodland with a view of the whole billabong, and then across to the lagoon, much smaller with lots of ducks. I saw a few parrots. 10.5 kms.

In the late afternoon I went to look at the red cliffs on the Murray. They are quite a surprise, on the Victorian side just along this one bend of the river. By climbing through a fence I could walk along the top of the cliffs for better appreciation.

Next day I went to Hattah Kulkyne national park. Last time I went there it was all flooded and I couldn't do any of the walks. This time everything was open and the place was deserted. I drove to the Warepil lookout for a view over the park and started a loop walk to a couple of lakes hidden in the woodland. The red earth terrain was undulating with mallee gums and scrub. I heard a strange sound and an emu appeared! It was a long way to Lake Konardin, a largish lake, and I was able to walk by the shore for a while.

It looked like flooding had recently receded.

Then I went on to Lake Mournpall and sat at the empty campsite. It had become quite hot. I walked back to the lookout on a different trail. I camped at the Lake Hattah campsite (which was completely under water last time).

There was a tall egret standing completely still at the lake edge staring intently at the water; in the morning it was back in the same position. It was a clear starry night. 15 kms

Next day I walked a loop from the campsite around Lake Hattah and a couple of smaller lakes. The terrain here was different: brown flood plains with mallee and buloke. I saw lots of galahs, cockatoos and ring neck parrots. The highlight was three emus strolling across the trail. I saw a few kangaroos and later another emu. 10.6 kms

Late afternoon I went to Murray Sunset national park and had a quick look at the pink lakes. I walked along Lake Crosby through the samphire and over a grassy ridge to Lake Kenyon, very pretty.

This part of the park is a little oasis among farming land but you would never know this from the lake shores. I finished the loop and went on to Lake Becking, a smaller round lake. Then I returned along Lake Crosby as sunset approached. Everything was purple. I saw a trio of bright yellow Regent parrots and plenty of green ring necks. I camped by Lake Crosby and when the moon rose it was extremely bright. 7 kms

My walk across Tasmania

 I liked the idea of making a north south crossing of Tasmania on foot, straight down the middle. My primary goal was to walk coast to coast. The Tasmanian Trail is a walking, biking and horse riding route between Devonport and Dover which I intended to follow where helpful, and I ended up using it a lot, continuing a bit further to reach the coast.

9 January I took the train to Geelong and the daytime Spirit of Tasmania across to Devonport.

10 January Since the ferry docks down the Mersey River I had to walk from my motel by the East Devonport terminal almost two kms to the north coast so I could start my cross-island hike in a legit place. There's a coastal walkway and I chose a start line on the coast clear of the estuary. 

Then I walked out of East Devonport on the Tasmanian Trail towards the Mersey-side bike path to Latrobe. The river is impressively wide along here with islands. I stopped in Latrobe for a morning snack. I walked out of the town on a quiet road and onto a dirt road undulating across logged hillsides, along a closed road in forest, and a narrow trail which ended at private property where I was required by trail signs to climb three gates, and onto another quiet sealed road.

I ate lunch in an apple orchard with lots of taps but no water. Some views of the Western Tiers. The road descended in bush then grazing land, hot and windy. I reached the Mersey bridge where I intended to camp and could immediately see this wouldn't be possible because there were fences and there was nowhere secluded. The river was very pretty (gurgling and shallow). I got water to make coffee but it was too windy, then at the top of the next hill there was no wind and I had a long break.

I continued to Railton in the late afternoon sunshine, everywhere green and lots of cows looking at me, and camped behind the pub. I got to the takeaway just in time before closing. 31 kms

11 January Beautiful day. I left Railton on a bike trail in the forest (heard lots of thumping in the bush) and then gravel roads. Two locals stopped to chat. Some minor roads with views of Mt Roland, then I left the Tasmanian Trail (because I didn't need to go into Sheffield) and went on a busier road through Dasher River conservation area, where I got water from a creek and had coffee in the forest. Shortly after I peeked at the Dasher River where it flows through a granite gorge and soon crossed it. I walked a gravel road above the lovely Minnow River followed by farmland; it was very hot. I could see the Gog range ahead like a barrier across the road, and sometimes the Mt Roland group.

I stopped to rest near a house and when the owner arrived we had a chat. I stayed on the gravel road parallel to the official trail so I wouldn't have to do the river fording I had read bad things about. The road climbed for good views away from the mountains and went between logged hillsides and native bush. It was deserted so I felt like I was on a walking trail.

I descended to another Mersey bridge where I had planned to camp but again this was impossible. After a long time trying to find somewhere I started up the hill away from the river towards bush. I was getting desperate, it was after 7. Near the top I saw a fence that looked climbable and I went over it to a patch of large trees between two properties where I could hide. I've not done the stealth thing quite like this before. 28 kms

12 January I continued on the hilly road with forested ranges in all directions and even when I turned onto a wider road it was very quiet. Just lovely rural scenery. I asked at a house for water at Dunorlan, strange to be necessary in Tasmania! After a while I had good views of Quamby Bluff and the Western Tiers.

I had a few kilometres on a really quiet road across a valley then a busy road into Deloraine. Tailwind again and getting hot.

The views of the Tiers, Quamby and Projection Bluffs were great at the top of the hill above Deloraine. I went straight to the good cafe for lunch then checked into the pub. I ate at the British Hotel as I hadn't been there for a long time. 21 kms

13 January It was cooler when I left Deloraine. All road walking but quiet, some grazing (goats, cows, sheep) and some bush. I walked towards Quamby Bluff and came very close. I rejoined the Tasmanian Trail as the road became unsealed and entered the forest. I stopped for coffee and immediately lots of March flies descended on me. 

The road climbed until I had a view of imposing Dry's Bluff.

I contoured logged hillsides with views over the lowlands to my east end then the road went down, down, down in rainforest to the Liffey River camping area, one of my faves. I camped by some noisy rapids. It rained in the evening. 23 kms

14 January Perfect blue sky. I stayed on the gravel road above the Liffey River and alongside Dry's Bluff. I was no longer in forest, with a peaceful rural landscape. There were lots of ripe blackberries by the roadside. I reached the old Liffey school building where I made coffee on the veranda. Then I had a stretch bypassing Bracknell. It was hot.

As I walked on towards Blackwood Creek I was heading straight towards a band of mountains and I knew I would eventually be up there with them on the Central Plateau. I saw an echidna. From Blackwood Creek I could see many mountain ranges and a distant town beyond the sheep paddocks. A Danish cyclist doing the trail the other way stopped to chat.

I took a dirt road by paddocks straight towards the mountains

and turned onto the Caves walking track. The track initially crossed Palmers Rivulet and it was so nice there that I made coffee and had a long break. The track was a welcome change from road walking and climbed through ferny gum forest; it climbed relentlessly and was rocky but not difficult apart from a few washouts. I could see Mt Blackwood (the highest peak near here) clearly and had occasional views over the lowlands.

Half way up there were high cliffs, some with small caves and holes, then I came to a much larger cave with a long, almost level, rock platform under the overhang (making it a 2-storey cave). It had been suggested to me to sleep here and I decided that would be fun so I laid out my mat and sleeping bag and had a great al fresco sleep. 31 kms

15 January I continued up the track and saw a few rock pools (I could hear water in the night) then crossed the rivulet. I was walking at the edge of a cloud so the forest ahead was misty.

I emerged by the road on the Central Plateau at 1121 metres as the cloud cleared over the top of Mt Blackwood. Next was 18 kms of sealed road, and logging trucks. As I stepped off the road for one of them I saw a huge black snake. The roadside scrub was in flower and I had glimpses of the Great Lake. 

For a half way break from the road I dumped my pack and went down to Cramps Bay on the lake; the shore was scrub and rocks and the water was bright blue. More road, which was fine during the long gaps in traffic: long climb to high point of 1190 metres, dry sclerophyll forest, views of Arthurs Lake on the descent, Three Sisters peaks in typical Tassie scrub, creeks, rock flows.

I finally turned off for Arthurs Lake onto a gravel road and then a rough path of gravel chips, with several creek crossings on stepping stones. The last kms were by the lake, and the pumphouse campsite (with wallabies) overlooked the water. 27 kms

16 January Beautiful starry night then big gusty wind in the morning. I climbed up to the flume for carrying water from Arthurs Lake down to the Great Lake and followed a trail alongside which was very pleasant, through dry bushland on a ridge on the plateau. I saw wallabies. The wind was strong and cold. I came to the southern tip of the Great Lake (not so blue today), having to make a big detour thanks to an agressive landowner, and headed away from it flanked by low scrub. This part was bleak in the cold wind. I met a cyclist for a chat. I had several kms on the A5 which had a good shoulder.

It was nice passing Shannon Lagoon with swans, then I came back to the Great Lake and could see it all the way to (and through) Miena, a very strung out place with several separate clusters of houses. It was trying to rain but didn't quite.

I stopped for coffee at the first Miena pub and stayed a long time. I was able to walk on a track by the water for a while and arrived at the general store to buy food, next door to the second pub, where I could camp. 23 kms

17 January It started raining at dawn, just lightly at first. I had coffee at the general store as locals came in and chatted about thunderstorms nearby. The shop lady was concerned for me and gave me a reflective strap to put on my pack. To me the hardest part was making the move to set off in the steady rain knowing I had only one place to shelter in 28 kms.

Initially I climbed to very exposed moorland with a strong tailwind, on the Marlborough Highway which turned out to be a narrow gravel road, already full of puddles. I descended to cross the Ouse River in a little gorge and once I reached the top again there was an icy cold squall which was nasty. This eased off and I came to Little Pine Lagoon; I went into the toilet and rearranged my gear.

When I emerged the weather looked a bit brighter and the rain was quite bearable. The road entered light forest and later there were grassy clearings where I saw wallabies. There wasn't much traffic and I only got splashed once. The rain stopped for about 10 minutes then became steady again. Near the end I followed high above wiggly Serpentine Creek and I could see Bronte Park in the distance but it took ages to get there; as I arrived (after six hours of nonstop walking) the rain stopped.

I went in the shop for a pie and coffee and permission to camp. I've never rated Bronte Park and it hadn't changed but I was very happy to be there. It was a hard day and I was pleased with myself. 28 kms

18 January I left Bronte Park in pale sunshine for a few kms of sealed road and highway. At Bronte Lagoon I turned off into the forest and a dirt road for the rest of the day. The road was hilly through forest of stringybark and ferns.

The rain returned, with a few heavier showers. I passed another lake and climbed for a glimpse of Dee Lagoon. Then I came to a line of shacks by the roadside and I stopped at the last one (as there was smoke coming from the chimney) to ask if I could sit under cover to rest; the woman invited me in for coffee. As we chatted there was a huge downpour.

I left: the sun came out, it rained, the sun came out, it poured. The road went beside the lake, pretty in a misty way

then crossed the dam wall and climbed back into the forest where the ferns were lusher. The forest gave way to a vast grassy valley dotted with gums, then I had another patch of forest and reached another valley. It was really windy, like a storm was coming. There were no vehicles for ages then a police car passed and asked if I had seen a particular white ute; I couldn't help them.

At the edge of the valley I had a brief climb in forest to the Victoria Valley campsite for Tasmanian Trail users, on a hilltop among the trees, with a new 3-sided shelter. With anticipated overnight storms, strong winds and the cold, I put up my tent inside the shelter. 33 kms

19 January Very windy night. I soon left the road for a narrow track in the forest. I detoured to Victoria Falls, a reasonable cascade over a small granite cliff. I forded the river and the track was quiet through the forest, a bit wet in places. I heard lots of noises beside the track and finally realised the cause: echidnas.

Where the forest had been cleared I could see a range of dry hills.

After a coffee break I went down a long way to cross a river and I was out of the forest into grazing land and more of a road. I could see a mountain range ahead. The sun was out but it was still windy. The road undulated past dry hills where there were masses of sheep; one time I saw a flock wandering without supervision up the road ahead of me. I turned back onto the road I had followed all day yesterday and then a last turn onto the highway and into Ouse, in the upper Derwent Valley.

I reckon this is about half way so I had a pie to celebrate and checked into the pub. I ate dinner there and it seems the chef quit after doing my schnitzel (with patrons waiting for meals!) 25 kms

20 January After a few kms on the highway (briefly leaving the Tasmanian Trail) I turned off for Meadowbank Lake on the Derwent River. It was peaceful there, completely still with lots of birds on the lake, and I had a coffee break.

Back on the official trail the road went up and over a huge hill, up in bush and down in the open, then I turned onto a very minor gravel road and came to a bridge over the Jones River where I got water (with difficulty). Such a lot of kookaburras everywhere. It was really pretty in the valley with grassy river flats and I had intended to camp there but it was only lunchtime.

I started my climb up Mt Bethune - I hadn't been able to get permission to cross this private land but I went anyway. There wasn't a path at first then only an intermittent worn strip of dirt through tussock grass and acacias and sheep. It was a sneaky mountain with three false summits. I enjoyed the climb and the scenery from the top was clearly going to be spectacular; more and more mountains came into view as I climbed. I have never seen so much sheep poo. At the summit (508 metres) I could see the winding Derwent, the tv pylons on Mt Wellington in Hobart, Mt Field, Mt Anne far to the southwest and much more.

I startled some wallabies on the way down. The descent came straight down the mountainside to a dirt road. The day suddenly turned sunny. I had a few kilometres on this deserted road with close up views of the Mt Field range. Saw an echidna. Short time on a sealed road and I saw a wombat dart into the bushes. I ended my day in Meadowbank conservation park, and found a perfect grassy patch in the white gum forest to camp. 28 kms

21 January There was a lot of wallaby/pademelon activity in the night and into the morning. After a few minutes walking I reached a tiny creek for my first flowing water since Jones River. The route came out onto open hillsides, dry tussock/marshland and evidence of sheep, and I followed a vague track until I stopped for breakfast with views of forested hills south. It was a grey day and Mt Wellington was in cloud.

I came to a trail down a dry gorge (a wombat ran along the edge and zipped into a hole) and then sheep grazing hillsides, and went onto an empty road, descending to the Derwent. After walking above the river and eating some blackberries I crossed the fast flowing Tyenna River, got water and took a break. 

I braved the busy B61 for the last hour, noticing that hop fields are the thing here, and went straight to the Bushy Park roadhouse for pie, slice and coffee. I went on to the showgrounds to camp; not very inspiring but I'd had enough walking. The wind came up crazy again and I was glad to have a shed to sleep in, shared with a number of birds. 18 kms

22 January I had another hour on the B61 but this morning it was quiet. I turned off the bitumen for the long climb onto the Black Hills, mostly grazing and farms and there was no view until I was over the highest point on the road (520 metres). I climbed steadily and was amazed I had already done 13 kilometres when I reached the top. Up there it was chilly.

The view was a wonderful panorama of mountains: I reckoned I could see Mt Anne, Mt Picton, the Hartz Mountains and later a range between New Norfolk and Hobart, and Mt Wellington.

The long steep descent was on a sealed road so I was able to walk fast, coming down into the Derwent valley past small farms. I eventually crossed the Derwent, very wide here, and went up a final hill to the centre of New Norfolk. Straight to the bakery of course. Then I checked into the motel and washed my clothes. 24 kms

23 January Road walking to Lachlan and progress became slow once I noticed masses of ripe blackberries. There was no traffic after the settlement and I could see tree covered mountains ahead; soon I was climbing into them on a forest trail. It was great to be deep in the forest but sad to see so much litter among the trees. The trail went up and up, on the flanks of two mountains I had seen yesterday as I approached New Norfolk.

Soon the Jeffreys Track deteriorated into the mess I had read about: deep ruts, narrow muddy embankments and huge potholes filled with water. Hard going but I then turned onto White Timbers Track; this was worse because it was narrower and there was often no way to get around the giant puddles that were the width of the track and flanked by impenetrable bush. I grabbed onto branches and balanced precariously and was able to get through only wetting my right foot (many times). This was the most challenging part of my whole walk. It had started raining lightly. 

Finally the trail improved to well draining gravel chips. I was on the edge of White Timbers Mountain and could see the higher part through the trees. I went over the highest point of the trail (826 metres) without fanfare and began to descend gradually (in Russell Ridge conservation area). The foliage was all bright green: big ferns, Tasmanian laurel, reedy grasses and the rain had cleared. At a junction I heard water and found a creek, and there was even a bench. Coffee.

I went on a bit further, crossing Judds Creek twice, and at the second crossing there was just the tiny patch of grass I needed; it was tricky fitting my tent in but so good to camp by water. I was directly beneath a conical forested peak. 32 kms

24 January I continued descending in the lovely forest and soon I was passing tucked away properties. Then I was out of the forest with views of the mountain ranges of the south west and entering the Huon Valley. Sunny. I got to Judbury and stopped at the park beside the Huon River. I had a stiff climb out of Judbury and just as the road levelled out I met two bike riders.

Further on I was on a ridge with fabulous views towards the southwest peaks.

Another hefty climb and the whole horizon was taken up with mountains, even the distant Western Arthurs. Straight ahead I could see Hartz Mtn clearly. The trail returned to forest with a few less dramatic mountain views in the other direction and I undulated along.

The descent was welcome, then I found water and started looking for somewhere I could camp. Nothing. I came out of the forest and immediately there were houses and no trespassing signs. Reluctantly I continued to Geeveston; luckily I had a tailwind and it was mostly downhill, into the Arve River valley. On the edge of town there was a cafe so I got hot chips and sat outside. I found the Tasmanian Trail camping area in a paddock by the Kermandie River. 36 kms

25 January I had breakfast in town (coffee and a stale donut) then walked along the Kermandie River before starting another long climb. There were both black clouds and blue sky and it was windy; fortunately I had a tailwind blowing the clouds away from me. I got onto a ridge and had a brief sighting of the huge Huon River estuary. 

I said a final goodbye to the Tasmanian Trail for an alternative route and turned onto a wide and completely deserted logging road. I saw an echidna in the middle of the road and first it froze then it strolled off and hid behind some blades of grass. I found water but it was too windy to be able to boil it. 

Instead of going directly to Dover I detoured to Esperance River campsite which sounded like it was worth the extra kilometres. I took a much smaller trail undulating through the regenerating forest (had a peek of Mt Adamson) still really windy but the threat of rain was gone. A big black snake slithered off the track. 

I came to a bridge over the Esperance River, a very pretty spot with rapids and rock platforms

and found a place to put up my tent above the river, among small trees for shelter. 21 kms

26 January It rained early on but I got up to blue sky. I had breakfast by the river and saw a rainbow over the bridge, soon it was raining again. I walked the forest road and later saw a double rainbow. The showers came and went. I reached the highway at the Esperance River estuary, had a boring stretch then I was right on Esperance Harbour with views of the islands in the bay and hills beyond.

I walked into Dover and went in a cafe, glad it was open since Dover is such a tiny town. It was horribly windy and the weather forecast wasn't good for tomorrow so I decided to get the bus to the Kermandie pub near Geeveston for the night. 13 kms

27 January Rest day. I took the bus back to Dover, checked out the foreshore with views towards Bruny Island and camped at the caravan park. Extremely windy, several rainbows. Dinner at the RSL with Stan, a bike tourist.

28 January I walked around the foreshore and returned to the Esperance River on the main road, picked an apple and lots of blackberries, then turned onto an old logging road. I was close to Mt Adamson, unfortunately the top was in cloud. The wind made the weather just as changeable as before but I didn't expect rain. 

Back on the busier road I needed a break and I stopped at Southport Rivulet: yucky water; then it was too windy; finally beside Lune River I could get water and sit in a clearing. Next I sat by the sad abandoned railway office at Ida Bay for lunch and decided to continue south despite uncertain camping options. The road was unsealed from there, plunging into forest, busy with bursts of vehicles and dusty and not very interesting at walking pace. Hilly. It was a slog. When I got to the d'Entrecasteaux River I tried to get water but the steep access wasn't safe, so instead I flagged down a car for water and after a drink I felt much better.

I finally reached Recherche Bay: coastline at last. It looked lovely in the evening light with gentle waves. There was still a bit further to go for the campsite at Gilhams Beach. It was a long day, worth it to camp with the sound of the waves. 35 kms

29 January Breakfast on the beach, sunny and lots of forest covered hills and little bays. The road went close to the water passing a few bays, then more forest and more coast. Far less traffic. The road became sand. The weather didn't look like remaining sunny as forecast. I came to the bridge over Cockle Creek and the end of the road. I had another coffee on this beach.

My last eight kilometres to the coast was on the South Coast Track. First through rocky gum forest, then a long stretch on boardwalk across boggy ground surrounded by low hills (coral ferns, scrubby tea tree), then tall tea tree forest followed by a damper forest with creeks. 

Suddenly I could hear what had to be the roar of the ocean - it was too loud to be the wind. I descended to a lookout over South Cape beach and it was a wild sight with the rough water, Lion Rock and headlands beyond, South Cape and high cliffs back in the other direction. I had to cross the granite cliffs of Coal Bluff, not going near the edge, and descended to the beach.

The South Coast! My goal achieved. I walked the length of the beach (at the water's edge sat the biggest collection of seagulls I've ever seen) and climbed up to the viewless campsite in the trees. I had lunch and it started raining. I found it too damp and dismal at the campsite so I relocated to a spot just behind the beach with its own little table and close to the creek; the only disadvantage was that I had to put up my tent on sand. When the sun returned I sat on the dunes. The wind was crazy strong. 14 kms

30 January The weather was so good

that I decided to continue to South Cape Rivulet. I saw a spotted quoll scurry into the bushes. I climbed a hill into the forest of melaleuca, laurel, cutting grass and blechnum with a little mud. At the top was a wonderful view of a series of headlands and beaches southwards. This has to be one of the best views in Australia: a series of five headlands with each one the cliffs becoming higher and steeper.

I descended to a beach of sand and large pebbles (it was high tide so I had to walk on the pebbles). Another low hill in forest and I emerged on the beautiful beach leading to the rivulet. I was keen to see the conditions: shallow. I sat on a log and made coffee, completely still and nobody around. 

On the way back I had lunch at the high lookout, inland the endless forest and craggy Mt Pindar and rounded Mt La Perouse.

I returned to South Cape beach, the wind had come up so I didn't stop. Back in the forest I stopped to make coffee at what's become my usual spot along the creek. Then the final traipse across the valley on boardwalk (lovely pink trigger plants and fairies aprons) and the rocky contouring of low hills. 

I am pleased to have done this section of the South Coast Track in good weather, third time around.

I walked over to the camping area at Boltons Green and found a quiet corner but just as I put my bag down a big snake slithered across the grass. So I changed my mind and went further along. A wallaby came to visit as I lay in my tent. Clear starry night. 15 kms

Total 511 kms