When I decided to walk the Rheinsteig from Wiesbaden northwards to Bonn I thought it was a walk along the Rhine, which it is, but on the hills high above the middle and lower Rhine gorge rather than on the river bank. This means fantastic views earned by a lot of ups and downs on fairly steep terrain. Lots of forest, vineyards and dozens of castles ranging from medieval ruins to 19th century fantasies.
7 June I got the train to Wiesbaden and walked the few kilometres to my hotel near the start of the Rheinsteig, the last part through the Schlosspark with a lake and tiny castle. The park is named for the huge Schloss Biebrich, an 18th c palace on the Rhine where the walk officially starts. 4 kms
8 June I had a few kilometres along the Rhine, no activity at all on the river, went past the last bridge until Koblenz in my direction, and turned inland to walk alongside vineyards and I was able to pick lots of cherries. Plenty of other fruit trees in abandoned orchards. Soon into deciduous forest. Saw a red squirrel. The weather was muggy. There was a strange cliff in the forest just before the first town and castle ruins including a tower. I got a bit lost in the town. More forest which was very quiet apart from birds 
and I came to a massive old mill building that had a water wheel at the side. Schlangenbad was the next town, completely surrounded by forest, some large hotels but the place felt deserted.
and I came to a massive old mill building that had a water wheel at the side. Schlangenbad was the next town, completely surrounded by forest, some large hotels but the place felt deserted.
Back in the forest the walking was easy, a few streams, a few clearings and I came to a lookout over Kiedrich with a huge cherry tree full of cherries. I could see many other towns but not the Rhine; the trail is far from the river for these early stages. Kiedrich was in a valley and the steep slopes were covered with vines; signs said the vineyards date back to 12th c. I was surprised how steep the slopes were. I climbed further to a 12th c round tower and had a steep descent to the town. It was also very deserted and closed up, the usual Monday thing, with many half timbered buildings and lots of wine cellars. Fat white asparagus for dinner. 28 kms
9 June I walked up out of Kiedrich passing vineyards and into forest until I came to a lookout over Kloster Eberbach a 12th c monastery and surrounding buildings, painted white with red outlines. I descended to the complex and checked it out, peering inside the church as it was still closed.
Back into forest (also included wild cherry trees) and I was undulating until I came out onto a ridge and could see the Rhine. There are so many towns on both sides and the rest is vast vineyards looking very bright with spring foliage. The route meandered along the ridge at the edges of the vineyards, passed a palatial winery then returned into the forest.
Back into forest (also included wild cherry trees) and I was undulating until I came out onto a ridge and could see the Rhine. There are so many towns on both sides and the rest is vast vineyards looking very bright with spring foliage. The route meandered along the ridge at the edges of the vineyards, passed a palatial winery then returned into the forest.
The forest felt spacious and empty. I went the wrong way and tried to correct by walking between the trees but that took longer than staying on the paths because of all the fallen branches; then I went wrong again while contouring a big gully. There were a cluster of shrines in little huts and I came out by white with red Marienthal chapel and monastery. I went in the chapel (15th c but rebuilt) and walked across the village to get back to the forest at a 17th c chapel. Several grass clearings.
I climbed back up to the vines getting glimpses of the river and just below a medieval abbey I began my descent into Rüdesheim, which meant leaving the Rheinsteig. The town had some strangely shaped half timbered buildings and a prominent onion domed church near my hotel. 
It was a very touristy place, narrow cobbled streets and pretty. The Rhine was a lot wider than in Wiesbaden and there were islands in the middle. 29 kms
It was a very touristy place, narrow cobbled streets and pretty. The Rhine was a lot wider than in Wiesbaden and there were islands in the middle. 29 kms
10 June I had a big climb up from Rüdesheim through the vines with some great views over the town's slate roofs and the river,
and more views from the huge Niederwald statue at the top commemorating Germany's unification in 1870/1.
The forest up there had been developed into a park in the 1800s and had some interesting attractions like the trail went through a tower that had been built as a ruin positioned to look down on castle ruins by the river below and across to a toll castle on an island in the river, and a short twisty black tunnel through a building. I had a long zigzag descent to Assmanshausen, a small town where I hoped to get a coffee, but there was nothing open and I settled for a roll with cheese bought at the butcher. The town had cute buildings, lots of hotels.
and more views from the huge Niederwald statue at the top commemorating Germany's unification in 1870/1.
The forest up there had been developed into a park in the 1800s and had some interesting attractions like the trail went through a tower that had been built as a ruin positioned to look down on castle ruins by the river below and across to a toll castle on an island in the river, and a short twisty black tunnel through a building. I had a long zigzag descent to Assmanshausen, a small town where I hoped to get a coffee, but there was nothing open and I settled for a roll with cheese bought at the butcher. The town had cute buildings, lots of hotels.
Next a steep climb back up first along terraces on the hillside among vineyards and then into forest (oak, elm, wild cherry). Both sides of the river had steep forested hills, two castles on the opposite side, and just after it started raining I had a lovely view down the river as it narrowed between these hills. After the rain stopped I came to another such lookout. My path was on a ledge in the forest, above and below very steep terrain, rocky cliffs higher up. I passed a few walkers. I wasn't seeing any cherry trees with fruit low enough to pick until I found some on the descent. I saw a black and white swallowtail butterfly. There was a clearing with a good view over Lorch, back to vineyards and less steep hills, and a gentle descent to the town.
I looked around for a cafe and saw nothing which had me worried but later I found a bakery. And another schnitzel. 24 kms
I looked around for a cafe and saw nothing which had me worried but later I found a bakery. And another schnitzel. 24 kms
11 June I had a steep climb out of Lorch ending at a ruined tower, Nollig, and a walk high above the river to a viewpoint over Lorchhausen and some river traffic.
It was cool with a bit of sun. The rest of the day was mostly in forest following a winding route around gullies and away from the river. I came to my first sighting of Kaub and the funny toll castle Burg Pfalzgrafenstein on an island in the middle of the river, and had a chat with a walker. The forest was steep with some slate scree and rock faces, mainly oak but pines higher up. I passed an unlocked cabinet with bottles of wine for sale, one of several along the trail.
It was cool with a bit of sun. The rest of the day was mostly in forest following a winding route around gullies and away from the river. I came to my first sighting of Kaub and the funny toll castle Burg Pfalzgrafenstein on an island in the middle of the river, and had a chat with a walker. The forest was steep with some slate scree and rock faces, mainly oak but pines higher up. I passed an unlocked cabinet with bottles of wine for sale, one of several along the trail.
I came out of the forest near a ruined castle from 1220, Burg Gutenfels, 
with again a view over Burg Pfalzgrafenstein and the slate roofs of Kaub.
The hillsides are all terraced with dry stone walls. I descended steeply through a vineyard to Kaub and the youth hostel, the only place open, even in the evening. 14 kms
with again a view over Burg Pfalzgrafenstein and the slate roofs of Kaub.
The hillsides are all terraced with dry stone walls. I descended steeply through a vineyard to Kaub and the youth hostel, the only place open, even in the evening. 14 kms
12 June It was raining while I had breakfast but cleared when I set out; there were constant light showers all day. Early on there were clouds hanging above the river. I walked through Kaub and up past vineyards then into forest. Nice views across to Oberwesel with two big churches and a castle. There was a deep gully I had to get around in thick forest which took hours and at the end I was still looking across to Oberwesel. There were plenty of lookouts and benches (that's certainly something they don't skimp on in Germany). I crossed a couple of flowing streams.
When I reached the Loreley plateau I walked past vineyards where the grape types were explained and then visited some sharp rocks jutting out of the forest. The main part of Loreley was crazy busy and I wandered around not sure what I was looking for. But I ended up on the clifftop where the mythical Loreley sat. Can't fault her choice: the view of St Goarshausen from the clifftop was good.
Back on the trail I had a lovely view of St Goarshausen with Burg Katz castle at the near end 
and bigger St Goar directly across the Rhine, colourful houses and a castle (Burg Rheinfels) higher up. I came steeply down on steps to St Goarshausen passing Burg Katz and had a brief look at the old town with many painted facades.
I decided to walk along the river for the last bit and I stopped for coffee and cake, my first opportunity on this walk. It was especially nice sitting here because the railway lines (with a constant stream of deafening freight trains) were behind both the towns rather than being beside the river; I could watch the cruise boats. Then I got the train to Wiesbaden as I couldn't find anywhere closer to stay. 21 kms
and bigger St Goar directly across the Rhine, colourful houses and a castle (Burg Rheinfels) higher up. I came steeply down on steps to St Goarshausen passing Burg Katz and had a brief look at the old town with many painted facades.
I decided to walk along the river for the last bit and I stopped for coffee and cake, my first opportunity on this walk. It was especially nice sitting here because the railway lines (with a constant stream of deafening freight trains) were behind both the towns rather than being beside the river; I could watch the cruise boats. Then I got the train to Wiesbaden as I couldn't find anywhere closer to stay. 21 kms
13 June Sunny. Back to St Goarshausen (without my pack) and a climb into the forest on steep steps until I reached fields. Poppies. Then straight back down again in forest with a surprise: suddenly I came to what seemed to me a hidden castle Burg Maus. I descended to the edge of a village and as I climbed up the other side of the valley I could see the castle clearly sitting on a promontory.
At the top of the climb I was on a plateau of farmland, mainly wheat, and I had a good view to the farmland plateau across the river and small villages. I couldn't see the river for a long time having turned inland. No vineyards in sight today. I came back down to forest with views over a large town on the far river bank and sheer rock cliffs, and descended almost to Kestert before having a long climb back up, gradual and then steep. On the way I passed a rest area by a stream with two hammocks.
At the top I was again on a plateau with fields and I came to a village, Lykershausen, where a guy was selling drinks and snacks from his house, a welcome break. I found a cherry tree overflowing with fruit so I picked a lot. I also found a rest area with the usual reclining bench and a rope basket swing overlooking the river. Nice. I crossed several meadows before descending on a narrow forest path, emerging by two ruined castles in succession (Sterrenburg, Liebestein).
And back up steeply again. The terrain is so steep everywhere rising from the narrow river plain. There wasn't much view except of forest on the far bank until I started coming down and I could see a long stretch of river. I looked down on Kamp Bornhofen and across to Boppard with a nice line of big buildings along the water. 
I descended alongside fields until I was above Filsen where the river has a tight bend.
Filsen is known for a path lined by cherry trees but they weren't in flower and had no fruit, so of little interest to me, and I rushed to the station (noticing a half timbered watchtower) for the train to Wiesbaden. 28 kms
I descended alongside fields until I was above Filsen where the river has a tight bend.
Filsen is known for a path lined by cherry trees but they weren't in flower and had no fruit, so of little interest to me, and I rushed to the station (noticing a half timbered watchtower) for the train to Wiesbaden. 28 kms
14 June Train from Wiesbaden. Cloudy. Lots of cherries early on. From Filsen I had easy walking just inside forest soon reaching my first lookout towards vineyards on the other bank. Crossed a few streams and went briefly onto another trail to get to some fabulous lookouts, westwards over vineyards and northeast over the town of Spay across the river and pale Marksburg castle on a more distant hillside, a long island in the river. 
A cargo boat was moving incredibly slowly up river; underwater sandbanks were clearly visible from where I sat.
A cargo boat was moving incredibly slowly up river; underwater sandbanks were clearly visible from where I sat.
Next a steep climb punctuated by another lookout and more climbing to a hut on a hilltop with a view over the next stretch of river between two bends. I sat out some black clouds on a recliner. The trail immediately went right down to a valley to cross a stream and up again to reach a ridge which I walked along looking down at the river. On the way I tried out a hammock on a spur overlooking the river. Marksburg was close but as it was on top of another hill I had to go down and then up.
(It's one of very few intact medieval castles along the Middle Rhine.) I could also just see pale Stolzenfels castle in the distance on the left bank.
(It's one of very few intact medieval castles along the Middle Rhine.) I could also just see pale Stolzenfels castle in the distance on the left bank.
I walked down to Braubach, along a street of half timbered houses to the cake shop. The town had many half timbered houses dating from 15/1600s. 
Between the river and the railway line there was a lovely wine garden; the river was quiet and I saw the only paddle steamer still operating. 15 kms
Between the river and the railway line there was a lovely wine garden; the river was quiet and I saw the only paddle steamer still operating. 15 kms
15 June Above Braubach I had another good view of Marksburg 
before descending towards the River Lahn, a tributary of the Rhine. This river was in a rocky steep sided gorge and I walked along it for a while before reaching the start of the Ruppertsklamm beneath a rocky cliff. This was a very nice climb up a narrow gorge initially on rock with the help of cables - the stream was flowing over the rock I had to walk on - and then on a tiny path which kept switching sides.
At the end of the narrow section I turned to leave the gorge on a ridge in the forest, with distant views of Lahneck castle next to a chapel on a hilltop.
before descending towards the River Lahn, a tributary of the Rhine. This river was in a rocky steep sided gorge and I walked along it for a while before reaching the start of the Ruppertsklamm beneath a rocky cliff. This was a very nice climb up a narrow gorge initially on rock with the help of cables - the stream was flowing over the rock I had to walk on - and then on a tiny path which kept switching sides.
At the end of the narrow section I turned to leave the gorge on a ridge in the forest, with distant views of Lahneck castle next to a chapel on a hilltop.
Then steep climbing in the forest, partly coniferous, and a very long descent back towards the Rhine although it was out of sight. The last part was along a stream, the path was quite muddy but the stream was almost dry. I reached the Rhine and walked right by the water a bit until I came to the bridge across the river to Koblenz: the area was a mess because of major works on the bridge and not pleasant walking; I crossed the river and walked into the city.
After dumping my bag I went down to Deutsches Eck where the Moselle River runs into the Rhine beneath the massive riverside Ehrenbreitstein fortress across the Rhine. I also went inside a couple of churches, Liebfrauenkirche (two onion dome towers) and St Kastor basilica 
with two original Romanesque towers, both with star vaulted roofs. 25 kms
with two original Romanesque towers, both with star vaulted roofs. 25 kms
16 June Frustrating start: I wanted to get the pedestrian ferry across the Rhine but it wasn't operating so I had to walk back to the messy bridge, across it and through road works to reach the fortress; after climbing up to it I then had to walk around the backside full of brambles and the route went on to a fancy lookout over Deutsches Eck except that the view was obscured by trees. The trail moves away from the Rhine for a few days. A bit of fields to the edge of Vallendar and I walked through the town because the countryside was nothing special, it started raining and I went in a cafe in the little town centre.
I walked out of the town along an overgrown path by a stream and returned to the Rheinsteig to start walking through wheat fields on a plateau, a glimpse of the Rhine and into forest. I reached a reconstructed Roman tower (part of the original Limes defence line) where there was a massive view over the country around the Rhine to a distant mountain range (and a recliner). The mugginess gave way to sunshine.
I had a winding descent to Sayn with glimpses of the medieval abbey through the trees; I had a look at the outside - the main feature being the exterior painted patterns around the windows and bays. 
Sayn was just a one street village, with a big palace and gardens, overlooked by a castle. Fortunately the beer garden was open. 24 kms
Sayn was just a one street village, with a big palace and gardens, overlooked by a castle. Fortunately the beer garden was open. 24 kms
17 June I walked up to the castle ruins, spread out over the hilltop with an extensive view over countryside towards the Rhine and beyond. Back down to the palace and then along the edge of the forest without any views. I went over little summits and passed many shelter huts, also several closed restaurants so clearly a popular area but not today. A small lake. There was a good view over the forest just before Rengsdorf. The weather was oppressive. 15 kms
18 June Hot day, another heatwave. I walked through Rengsdorf and up to a ridge with a panoramic view over the whole Rhine valley, then some cool forest where I walked above a small river (saw a working water wheel at a mill) with climbs to avoid a road, and I got to Altwied where there was a ruined castle 
and I crossed the river on an old stone bridge. More forest to another ridge of wheat fields with great views (but still only a sliver of Rhine) and a lot of apple trees.
and I crossed the river on an old stone bridge. More forest to another ridge of wheat fields with great views (but still only a sliver of Rhine) and a lot of apple trees.
I was supposed to descend towards Leutesdorf but I somehow went higher instead and did an arc above the town so I came into the town on the Rheinsteig going the other direction. Anyway there were lovely views over the town and the Rhine (the river seemed narrower than usual)
with small stony beaches and the elevated motorway on the far bank; in Leutesdorf the river bank was grassy parkland with big shady trees. 20 kms
with small stony beaches and the elevated motorway on the far bank; in Leutesdorf the river bank was grassy parkland with big shady trees. 20 kms
19 June I walked along the river through Leutesdorf and out of the town passing extremely steep hillsides covered with vines. I could see castle ruins on a cliff ahead and guessed I was headed there. Sure enough I had a hard climb up to the top and I was rewarded by an amazing view from the low remains of a round tower: the Rhine had widened and had a large island and I could see a long way in both directions. Ahead I could see another cliff which looked even higher.
I descended to Hammerstein and walked through the village then started the long climb in forest to the second clifftop. It was hard in the heat. At the top I was on a plateau with meadows and orchards and more excellent views over the Rhine.
I descended to Hammerstein and walked through the village then started the long climb in forest to the second clifftop. It was hard in the heat. At the top I was on a plateau with meadows and orchards and more excellent views over the Rhine.
I came down to Rheinbrohl and went through the town, lots of half timbered buildings and an old church. As the road and railway were a bit inland I decided to forgo the hills and stay by the river, I walked through meadows and on a bike path (brutally hot) to Bad Hönningen, with a good view of Rheineck castle across the river. Time for ice cream.
I dumped my bag at my hotel and set out for Linz, following the Rheinsteig mostly but shortening the route because of the heat (by now mid 30s). I left Bad Hönningen passing the ornate, many-windowed Arenfels castle with its backdrop of steep vineyards 
and climbed to a ridge for a long stretch overlooking the river, luckily some shade. The river was a hive of activity. I came through a small town with a large church and climbed to another ridge with many lookouts. I descended steeply on an overgrown path and walked parallel with the river into Linz. I was quite surprised to see that Linz had a proper square with cafes around the edge (busy) and a pretty town hall, possibly the nicest town centre of the Rheinsteig.
Just seeing things open was a treat! (It was bigger than any of the other towns I've been through.) There were several old towers/archways and masses of half timbered buildings. I went in St Martin's church with frescoes. 22 kms
and climbed to a ridge for a long stretch overlooking the river, luckily some shade. The river was a hive of activity. I came through a small town with a large church and climbed to another ridge with many lookouts. I descended steeply on an overgrown path and walked parallel with the river into Linz. I was quite surprised to see that Linz had a proper square with cafes around the edge (busy) and a pretty town hall, possibly the nicest town centre of the Rheinsteig.
Just seeing things open was a treat! (It was bigger than any of the other towns I've been through.) There were several old towers/archways and masses of half timbered buildings. I went in St Martin's church with frescoes. 22 kms
The bus to Bad Hönningen never turned up so I shared a taxi with two guys also waiting for the bus. In Bad Hönningen there were only two restaurants open (one was empty) and a lot of closed ones. Friday. I just don't get it.
20 June The bus to Linz was dead on time and I had breakfast on a square in town. Out of the town I had to get over two hills and then a steep climb to Erpeler Ley, a clifftop with a great lookout and large town Remagen across the Rhine. 
Nice breeze as I sat on a recliner. I descended to Erpel and walked through the town on a ridge with views across the river of ornate Apollinaris church and small palaces/castles; another lookout. Long descent in forest, small waterfall (but couldn't access the water) and up to a landing field for paragliders. I really needed water and a somewhat confused workman kindly gave me a bottle at a closed restaurant that other people had directed me to.
Nice breeze as I sat on a recliner. I descended to Erpel and walked through the town on a ridge with views across the river of ornate Apollinaris church and small palaces/castles; another lookout. Long descent in forest, small waterfall (but couldn't access the water) and up to a landing field for paragliders. I really needed water and a somewhat confused workman kindly gave me a bottle at a closed restaurant that other people had directed me to.
More descent and start of long climb to Auge Gottes, a tiny chapel with a painted eye to deter people from stealing timber. I had passed many shrines along the trail, some stone ones looking very old. It was a hot climb and no view there or when I went a bit higher. I came down in a wide gorge and out of the forest to the youth hostel in an isolated spot above Bad Honnef. Nothing special but too hot to leave once I got there. 18 kms
21 June I had a vicious climb only to come right back down and then a long climb in forest up to Löwenburg castle, at 428 m the highest point on my walk. It was already baking hot and I was soaked. The castle ruins were a bit off the Rheinsteig but I had to go up there for a view. There wasn't much left, a few walls and part of the keep. 
The 360 view was incredible: felt like I could see all of the western half of Germany, forested hills of the Schwarzwald, farmed valleys, the Rhine, towns. Considering the effort I had expended I was surprised to see so many people up there looking comfortable.
The 360 view was incredible: felt like I could see all of the western half of Germany, forested hills of the Schwarzwald, farmed valleys, the Rhine, towns. Considering the effort I had expended I was surprised to see so many people up there looking comfortable.
I rejoined the Rheinsteig and in 50 metres I came to Löwenburger Hof restaurant/car park; that explained the castle visitors. I stopped for aschorle as it has been so unusual for a restaurant to be open in my walk. Shady terrace and a vista to the Schwarzwald.
I took the most direct route towards Drachenfels (with newer castle and ruins of older), mostly downhill until I reached the newer 19th c Schloss Drachenfels. From there I went steeply uphill (alongside a rack railway) to the medieval Burg Drachenfels ruins on a massive cliff which has been excessively quarried, an odd sight from below. On the way up was an iconic view of the fairy tale schloss above the Rhine. 
The 12th c tower ruins were impressive in their position on the hilltop and the view over the Rhine and far beyond was amazing: Bonn, two large islands, the forested hills of the Siebengebirge. I could even see Cologne cathedral (built from stone quarried here).
The 12th c tower ruins were impressive in their position on the hilltop and the view over the Rhine and far beyond was amazing: Bonn, two large islands, the forested hills of the Siebengebirge. I could even see Cologne cathedral (built from stone quarried here).
I came downhill and walked into Köningswinter, the town was full of open restaurants, very lively. I was worn out from the heat and had a nap on a bench by the river. 17 kms
22 June Climb out of Köningswinter into the Siebengebirge forest and on to Heisterbach monastery with preserved remains of 13th c abbey, just the part behind the altar. 
Along to an area of steep vineyards with a view over the conurbation on this side of the river and back into forest.
Along to an area of steep vineyards with a view over the conurbation on this side of the river and back into forest.
Eventually I descended to the conurbation where it was significantly hotter and I reached the Rhine. This is the first time since Wiesbaden, apart from a kilometre in Koblenz, that the Rheinsteig is officially on the river bank. The riverside path was lined by lime trees. It was far too hot and the river was quiet. I crossed over the river into central Bonn and walked past the old Rathaus, 
through the market square to the cathedral with its sculptures of two saints' heads outside.
I returned to the market square for ice cream. 19 kms
through the market square to the cathedral with its sculptures of two saints' heads outside.
I returned to the market square for ice cream. 19 kms
Total 325 kms; 16 days; 10245 m elevation gain
No comments:
Post a Comment