South West Coast Path - Part 2

18 September  Bus back to Helford Passage and I picked up the SWCP to head past little bays still on the Helford estuary. A trail runner came towards me and I stepped off the path into brambles but no ground! The path rounded a point and I was on the coast again, walking through fields and woods above extensive rock platforms. I could still see up the estuary full of moored boats. I went around Rosmullion Head and descended to Maenporth and Swanpool beaches. Then continued over a headland to Gyllyngvase beach in Falmouth. Pendennis Castle on a wooded headland above Falmouth was clearly in view. The sun tried to come out but failed.

I walked out to Pendennis Point, walking along the castle moat, the castle resolutely out of sight (in reality unnecessary tedium and I shouldn't have bothered) and from the point I had a view across to St Mawes and St Anthony's lighthouse. Then back to the docks area for lunch. 15 kms

19 September I had to take a ferry to St Mawes and then another to Place; I sat with a walker I last saw at Porthcothan Bay who is doing the whole trail. I cut across St Anthony's Head and walked out to a low headland. The path went through fields and just before Towan beach I passed a tiny cove with over twenty seals lying on the sand.

I walked along Towan beach as it was low tide then again on low cliffs to Portscatho, a big village with a sandy beach. I could see ahead as far as Nare Head and it looked misty in that direction, but I was pleased that the coastal scenery was regaining its high standards.

I also walked along another pair of long shelly beaches, Pendower and Carne, before beginning the long climb to Nare Head and on the way I met my wild camping doctor friends; I walked with them to Portloe and that lifted my spirits which had been extremely low (because someone had told me a cyclone was coming). The sloe berries here were giant sized. Portloe was a pretty place tucked behind dark rocks.

I needed a break but I still had a long way to go and £5 for coffee was ridiculous so I powered on. The path was an unceasing roller coaster through bracken, hard work, until Portholland, two separate clusters of bayside houses, followed by more up and down to Porthluney beach and opposite the beach was a stately home, Caerhayes Castle, that looked completely over the top. Lots of pheasants in the fields, for shooting. I had a massive climb on a hillside full of sheep and a descent to Boswinger; the campsite was closed so I went on to the hostel and I was able to get a room. Two days without rain! 27 kms

20 September My mojo has for no reason suddenly returned. It was misty as I went down to Hemmick beach - bleak - and began my climb on bracken covered slopes to Dodman Head, highest cliff in south Cornwall. The few stunted trees were at a horizontal lean. With drizzle and mist I decided to cut across just shy of the summit as I wasn't going to see anything. As I descended above sandy Vault beach the rain increased and became heavy for the last part to Gorran Haven, nice stone buildings, where I stopped at a cafe and had a long chat with the owner. Eventually the rain lessened and I set off again, inland since no views on the coast and I didn't enjoy the flooded path.

I walked along typical Cornish roads with high hedgerows, hilly, and returned to the coast at Portmellon beach for the walk into Mevagissey. Another beautifully situated village with a protected harbour and lots of tourists. I tried to eat a sandwich sitting by the harbour but I had to seek shelter from the rain. 

I thought I would use the day to get ahead on my schedule. I walked inland to Pentewan, with a huge caravan park on the beach, in almost constant rain, and started up the hill but I had to stop when the rain became torrential. It was supposed to have stopped by then but it remained heavy until I was half way to Charlestown, then the wind picked up like crazy. Water was pouring down the road and I was constantly avoiding puddles. The sky became quite blue but it still rained. I saw a fantastic rainbow above Porthpean.

I turned for Charlestown and walked sharply downhill. The village was focused on its historic harbour which was surrounded by tourist shops. The rain kept returning. I walked on a bit, sheltered at a large hotel and returned to the coast path. Sunny now. I passed sandy beaches and had a good view of Gribbin Head with a striped daymark. The path was along a golf course then went into Par on a tedious narrow flooded track followed by a busy road.

I couldn't find a campsite that took tents; a woman who overheard me phoning a hotel about a room stopped to help and said there was a pub on the edge of town where I could camp if I ate there. Fine by me. I called them. The fish and chip shop owner told me where to get the bus. I pitched on a wet patch of grass in the flooded field and went to the pub.

I didn't know at the time that this was the end of the rain. 26 kms

21 September Blue sky when I got up. I had to take a taxi back to Par and I walked along the dune backed beach, spoilt by the sight of the china clay works I went past yesterday. Then through Polmear and up onto the cliffs before a decent to tiny Polkerris Bay. The path continued to go up on the cliffs then descend to the next cove and up again all the way to Gribbin Head where I walked past the red and white daymark

and continued in the same vein to Fowey. The last headland had St Catherine's castle ruins, best seen from Readymoney beyond there. I walked through woods to Fowey which seemed more upmarket than the usual villages and waited for the ferry to Polruan which was much cheaper than usual. Castle ruins on the point at Polruan too.

The rest of the walk was demanding, starting with a steep climb above lovely Lantic Bay, two tucked away sandy beaches.

I had views back to Dodman Head and, faintly, Lizard Point. The path was brutal: descending to cross streams that were gushing away and returning to the tops on long sets of steps. The sky darkened but no rain. The coast was rocky and the sea was calm. Finally I descended to Polperro, old houses stacked above a square harbour, and everything was closed. Some walkers had recommended a farm campsite and I had to walk steeply uphill two kilometres to reach it, after buying a takeaway box of salads at the only open cafe. It was a calm evening. 25 kms

22 September Freezing cold night and blue sky in the morning. I returned down the hill to Polperro which was even prettier in the sunshine,

and then took a detour inland through Talland. The village was up another steep hill with an attractive hidden church, and from there the road was narrow (a tractor zooming along only just fit). I descended to West Looe and sat at the harbour. The harbour divided West and East Looe and I crossed on an old stone arched bridge.

East Looe was a bustling town. I bought some fudge and climbed to get views of the beach and wooded Looe Island then went inland on a wooded path. I stayed inland on little roads to Seaton, a beach place, where I had a bacon and egg bap at the pub. Next I walked along the rather grey beach to Downderry and began a long hard climb onto the cliffs. I saw nobody between here and Portwrinkle which was unusual. The sea was calm and shining in huge Whitsand Bay and I could see to Rame Head guarding Plymouth. I passed several pretty sandy coves and then closer to Portwrinkle there were curly horned sheep on the path;

one sheep had ended up on the beach far below and looked lost. Portwrinkle suddenly appeared, low key and quiet.

I walked alongside a golf course and came to the Treguntle MOD firing range which could only be crossed after 4.30 so just right for me. I continued on the grass to Treguntle fort.

At that point I intended to catch the bus to the campsite I had arranged to stay at, but as I searched for the bus stop a woman in a car called out to me saying she was the person I had spoken to on the phone and she would take me to the campsite and also to the shops to buy food as their restaurant was closed today. This worked very well although the pitch was all mud. At dusk masses of swallows circled around. 25 kms

23 September Last day in Cornwall! I got the bus back to where I'd been picked up and walked along that same road high above the water. It was a second beautiful day, the water shining and a few sailboats out. I stopped at Freathy to make breakfast. Along here were many clusters of holiday homes. I descended through bracken and went out to Rame Head.

It was high tide and the sight of the dark rocks with a fringe of white surf was lovely. I paused at the point, there was a little hut on the top, then continued around the promontory to Penlee Point for views over Plymouth. From there I was in very nice green woods with hanging vines, ivy and blechnum. In Cawsand I was back on the water and I stopped for hot chips by the beach, one of the rare times I've lingered at a beach in sunshine. I was now inside Plymouth Sound looking across to Bovisand lighthouse.

I was able to walk on rocks through adjoining Kingsand and across grass to rejoin the SWCP. The next part was in and out of oak/pine woods with dappled sunlight and water in sight all along. I stopped at a stone shrine in European style above Fort Picklecombe to allow a group of soldiers to walk past. Then I stopped at Edgecumbe's Folly, remains of a two story tower with a staircase.

Went along the edge of the national camellia gardens and reached Edgecumbe House just before taking the ferry across the Tamar River estuary to Plymouth and into Devon. 

I went to my hotel via the Hoe seafront and high up promenade with striped lightouse, where Francis Drake played bowls and has a statue.

Then I walked around the Barbican and had a cream tea and checked out the Mayflower launch steps. Ate my fish and chips outside. 21 kms

24 September I had a pleasant day mainly away from the SWCP; I realised that in a couple of days' time I would not be able to ford the Erme River estuary (no ferry) as the water would be above my waist at low tide so a significant detour was required.

I took the ferry from the Barbican to Mount Batten and walked along the sound, climbing to Jennicliff and going to Bovisand with lots of 19th c fortifications on the way. I left the coast path and followed a gurgling stream in woods to Staddiscombe to join the Plym-Erme trail. The trail went through fields and woods, not entirely flat, passing a few farms and villages. I saw lots of pheasants in the fields. On the edge of Brixton I crossed the Yealm River on a causeway. I continued to Yealmpton and found a cafe. 

I had a couple more empty fields and narrow lanes in woodland with good views of rolling farmland and then a descent to the main road where I caught the bus back to Plymouth. 23 kms

25 September Rest day in Exeter with Denis. 

26 September I took the bus back to where I'd left off and crossed the Erme River on the road. I walked along a lane to Kingston, at times the trees formed a tunnel,

and sometimes by a clear stream. I joined a footpath which went through woods, across fields and across a lovely grassy hillside by a stream to Ringmore which had an interesting 13th c church.

Then downhill to Chaliaborough beach, a small sandy bay, back on the SWCP.

I walked above a sandy tidal causeway that led to an island, around to Bigbury on Sea and across grass above a big sandy beach and the winding Avon River which was almost non existent low tide but had a deep channel that called for a ferry. I waited for the ferry with another walker. 

On the far side I had to walk a golf course with views over Thurlstone Bay. The path was busy. There were a lot of exposed rock platforms and interesting low rock pinnacles, also Thurlestone Rock with a hole in the middle.

The cormorants have always picked one rock to colonise. Then Milton Sands. The sea was calm. I got to Hope Cove and was surprised to find a hive of activity, so I went in the pub for a coke and chips with a view back to the stretch of coast I missed with my detour - high whitish cliffs, dropping sheer to the water as if they've been sliced. 

The cliffs at Hope Cove were equally impressive when I saw them from further along the path.

I climbed onto the bracken/grass slopes of Bolt Tail with Iron Age earthworks on a headland. Then I was on high cliffs with farmland on one side and the endless sea on the other. I was looking for somewhere to camp and I found a good clearing in the bracken with a sea view, but as the sun went down I had to get straight into my bed. The night was starry and there were several lit boats at sea. 23 kms

27 September I walked along the cliffs and down to Soar Cove then stopped for breakfast on the way up. I went out on Bolt Head, saw some very cute reddish cows with long hair hanging over their face and curly horns, and ended up crossing fields by mistake.

I returned to the trail for a road walk past two little bays full of hotels and on into Salcombe where I had the best bacon and egg sandwich ever. I only had to go to the edge or the town, it was busy.

I got the ferry across the Salcombe estuary and walked back along the estuary on that side. Soon I began a lovely undulating and rocky path at mid height along the cliff edge with headland and cove views (there was a running event in progress) going below craggy rocks that reminded me of North Devon, until Prawle Point coastguard cabin.

When I reached there I realised I needed to buy food for the evening so I detoured to East Prawle up a huge hill. I had an ice cream there. The blackberries are pretty much finished, the sloes are still plentiful and there are often wild apple trees by the path with lots of fallen apples.

The next section of coast path was quite ho hum, low rocky spurs and some windswept weedy coves until I got near Start Point when it became fun. There was a flattish large rock out to sea and I could hear the sounds of seals and I gradually noticed the rock was covered with groups of seals as well as seals in the water. I went on towards Start Point with a view of the lighthouse and at the base of the cliffs were a line of low broken away rocks.

On the other side of the point I was at the edge of a large bay with many long beaches; they looked sandy but were actually all pebbles. There was a rare SWCP mileage marker maybe to remind us that Start Point was not the start. This bit of coast is meant to be very windy but it wasn't today.

I descended to a few houses and a beach of little smooth pebbles then had some climbing on bracken covered slopes by farmland. Nowhere to camp. I continued to Beesands, the first of the long beaches, and found a campsite on a road out of the village. The wind really picked up and the afternoon's forecast rain came overnight. 29 kms 

28 September I went through the village and along to Torcross (between a lagoon and the beach) where I made breakfast outside the pub then walked alongside Slapton Ley, a bigger lagoon with birdlife (saw egrets fly over). When the path left the lagoon I tried to walk on Slapton beach but the tiny pebbles made it too hard going. I had to climb hills to avoid the road and had good views from the top over Blackpool beach, very fine yellow tinged pebbles. Blackpool was a handful of thatched houses. I had a coffee in the sun at the beach. 

By mistake I walked on the road through Stoke Fleming and then followed a different trail which stayed up high and had good views of the coastline, sea again shining in the sunlight. I rejoined the coast path near Dartmouth castle on a lane with views across the Dart River estuary to many 19th c fortifications, and came to the castle and St Petroc church, some original walls. From the castle, mainly gun turrets remaining, I walked along the estuary into Dartmouth. After a break I took the ferry across to Kingswear; the ferry was a platform which was guided by a tug, sitting beside the platform on my trip and pulling it for the other direction.

The path continued as an extreme roller coaster, heading high into cliff top pine woods then descending almost to sea level repeatedly. At Froward Point coastguard cabin I descended past remains of WW2 defences. Soon after the rocks off shore had seals that I heard and saw. From a high point I could see what might be a good patch of grass to camp and when I got there, above Pudcombe Cove, I decided to stop in case there was nothing else later on. Unusually, there was a flowing stream very near. It was a calm starry night, not cold. 22 kms

29 September I was only able to get a view of the cove further along. I walked until I found a seat in the sun and had breakfast with a wonderful coast view of rocky spurs and my path through the bracken, sea lapping gently.

The path continued to be hard, dipping to Scabacombe beach (tiny grey pebbles) and back up then down to Mansands (big flat grey pebbles). After a final climb above a long shingle beach I came to a grassy headland, suddenly busy with dog walkers, and a view of flat topped Berry Head with rocks offshore.

I walked out onto the meadows on Berry Head, lots of remains of fortifications, with a view of built up Torbay. It seemed to take a long time to walk into Brixham and around the harbour full of trawlers. A whole lot of swans were resting on a slipway with their beaks tucked under their wings. I continued my research into bacon and egg baps.

Apart from the start when a pair of seals played in the water alongside the path, the next section was disappointing. I had lots of unnecessary ups and downs passing two shingle beaches, a lot of woodland then longer sandy beaches with bathing boxes at Broadsands and Goodrington. A highlight was seeing the Dartmouth to Paignton steam train twice. When I reached Paignton the reddish sandy beach was deserted and the pier closed up.

I had intended to stop there and get the bus or train to my hotel in Torquay so I walked to the station through the unpleasant town centre, but I realised that after messing around with the train it would be the same total distance if I walked on to Torquay today. I was tired and the walking was by the main road but Torquay was a much nicer place, attractive marina and seafront. They call this the English Riviera. I had a fabulous view over Torbay from my room. 28 kms

30 September The sun shone off the low red cliffs in the bay. I left my pack and continued around the bay, the walking much more enjoyable. I went onto the cliff tops and walked along passing several spurs, good view of Thatcher Rock, and went into woods. I crossed some grassy flat topped headlands and when I noticed the spire of the church in Babbacombe I decided to detour into the town for a break. This kept me above the woods so I could see the high red cliffs further on with a sheer drop into the water. There was a rack railway down to the beach. 

The next stage was brilliant: walking through deciduous undercliff woods with the water always in sight, filtered sunlight on a beautiful day. Lovely views back down the coast. A hole in a large rock. I passed a few beaches and detoured to hidden Maidencombe beach beneath a red cliff face.

After that the trail was more extreme with long steep climbs and descents going up to grassy meadows then back deep into the woods. I came down to Shaldon (another beach with a red cliff behind) and as I rounded the last point I had a view over Teignmouth, a large town with a long beach and pier. I got down to the estuary beach and the ferry happened to be waiting to take me across the Teign River. Teignmouth seemed a normal old fashioned holiday town. I had a pasty.

I walked the length of the beach between the water and the railway line then had to climb over a railway tunnel up to a busy road. I followed this road into Dawlish, another town on a long beach except that it was high tide so the sand wasn't visible. I walked along the top of the sea wall (built to protect the trains from the waves) as the sea bashed against it, until a red rock with a natural arch necessitated a turn inland. In a few minutes I was at the bus stop in Dawlish Warren, a landlocked place as odd as its name. I took the bus back to Torquay. 26 kms

1 October Slight fog over the bay. I had a long bus ride back to Dawlish Warren and walked a few kilometres along a bike path to Starcross for the ferry across the Exe River to Exmouth. (Passing Cockwood I saw a small harbour where boats had to come in under the railway line.) This was by far the longest and nicest ferry crossing, cruising down the river to the mouth where there were sand islands with dunes and birds.

Exmouth had a long sandy beach with esplanade alongside and then required a short climb onto a grassy cliff top at Orcombe Rocks where a geoneedle marked the start (and oldest part) of the Jurassic Coast. I went on to Sandy Bay, beach enclosed by cliffs, and had to bypass an active firing range. After each series of bangs I could hear the bullets landing in the sea. I remained on the red cliffs above Otter Cove (the sea discoloured by the red sand)

until a long descent to Budleigh Salterton, its pebble beach filled with dinghies. The sun had finally broken through the fog. 

I had to go inland through a marshy area with lots of birdlife (and lots of people with huge telephoto camera lenses) to cross a river and when the official trail returned to the coast I chose to remain inland because it was a pleasant change walking between the marsh (actually, mud flats) and the little river. I got to Otterton which was a pretty village of thatched houses with a stream running along the main street and went on to the coast at Ladram Bay. There were huge red rock stacks off the coast.

Back on the coast path I climbed and the views of beaches and red cliffs towards Sidmouth and beyond continued to be stunning.

I found a grassy spot on the cliff tops above an extensive inland valley that was out of sight from the farms across the fields and put up my tent. 22 kms

2 October I continued to the top of the cliffs for a view of the coastline in light fog and walked down to Sidmouth. Entering the town was dramatic with a high cliff behind the town, a castle like building above the sea wall and a long line of elegant hotels and houses. I ate breakfast on the promenade within sight of at least five high headlands I was about to go up and over. Another hard stage.

I crossed the mini Sid River and started the climb onto the first cliff and met three section walkers, two of whom went to my school a few years ahead of me. I walked with them to Westons Mouth chatting about our teachers. Westons Mouth had a long pebbly beach and afterwards a monster climb back up again. Then the path undulated gently through meadows with a lovely window view over the village of Branscombe inland and descended gradually to Branscombe Mouth beach with a large cafe. I had coffee.

I climbed steeply out of there and walked on the grassy top of Beer Head with cows grazing. Some of the cliffs were chalky white rather than red. As I descended to Beer I was looking at cliffs of both colours, Beer beach with a white cliff and red cliffs beyond. Appropriately I stayed at the pub. 17 kms

3 October It was a misty grey day. I climbed out of Beer, the beach looking sad and wet, and then had to walk on the road to Seaton as the tide was too high for the beach path. I ate a quick breakfast on the promenade above the shingle beach, crossed the Axe River and began a long stretch on the Undercliff path to Lyme Regis. A sign warned that there was no bailing out once you were on this section. It was unusual, maybe the closest thing to wilderness in England: an area prone to landslides where trees and creepers have colonised the land as it changed, including a chunk of cliff that formed a raised plateau. It was quite up and down, with rocks and roots underfoot, but a good place to be walking through a cloud as there would be minimal views in any weather. I had glimpses of the sea and glimpses of very high cliffs, and met my school friends at the only beach lookout. Had a quick chat with the maintenance crew who had done a great clearing job. By the time I got to the far end it was properly raining. As I came via the Cobb breakwater and harbour into Lyme Regis, entering Dorset, I couldn't even see the beach. I went in the first cafe I came to and booked a hotel room even though I intended to walk on.

I dumped my stuff and set off in light rain, strong wind. The SWCP went inland and I followed some back roads before crossing my second golf course for the day (both were so misty I couldn't see the route markers) and saw my second squirrel of the day. Then a long downhill in misty woods, it was quite eerie. I arrived at Charmouth to see a windswept beach and pounding surf. No point in lingering so I got the bus back to Lyme Regis, also windswept and rough stormy sea. The town had a selection of old buildings and waterfront fortifications. 21 kms

4 October Strong wind warning. I got the bus to Charmouth and had a long uphill before returning to the coast, the sky was black behind me and blue in front, and I had a fierce tailwind. I began the hard climb up to the top of Golden Cap (191 m), highest point on the south coast; it was raining slightly and near the top the raindrops felt like bullets hitting me, the wind was so strong that I was being pushed over. Only a misty view down the coast. Once I was over the summit the hillside sheltered me from the wind as I descended to Seatown, mainly a large holiday park packed with cabins (of which there are many on this part of the coast).

Similar climbs followed then suddenly the cliffs ahead were yellow and lower, flat topped.

I arrived in West Bay at the same time as the rain, walked around the harbour and went in a cafe. Unlike in the old days the rain stopped.

After negotiating an inlet and a huge caravan park I went inland to Burton Bradstock (detour due to a landslide last year, and I had already passed a major slip from 2020) and returned to the coast at Hive beach; the waves were pounding against the cliffs. I was soon on Chesil Beach, 17 miles of straight beach with tiny yellowish pebbles. It was not nice to walk on the pebbles, they got in my shoes and it was as hard as walking on soft sand, so I walked through fields where possible. The wind was always behind me and was so strong that it felt more comfortable to run than to walk, if only I could keep it up. I could see the Isle of Portland at the end of the beach.

I continued to West Bexington passing marshland with a bit more reluctant pebble walking and headed inland up onto the South Dorset Ridgeway, the route the SWCP originally took, to get to the bus at Abbotsbury. From the ridge I had a great view over Chesil Beach and I checked out an extensive hill fort. For the last part I walked through fields and on the road to the village with an early view of Fleet lagoon. Abbotsbury was an old village with all the houses built of the same yellow sandstone. I went in the 14th c church with fortified tower,

saw the remaining wall of the abbey through the remaining arch, saw the enormous tithe barn and got the bus back to Lyme Regis. 27 kms

5 October A long bus ride back to Abbotsbury

and I climbed a hill to the 14th c St Catherine's chapel which was intact and open.

The wind had lessened. The coast path remained inland going through fields with views of Fleet lagoon until I descended to the lagoon and saw lots of swans. Then I stayed beside the lagoon until I got to Moonfleet Manor Hotel and went in for a £5 coffee.

The path meticulously followed the edge of the lagoon, which was in two sections, every twist and turn, without much birdlife on offer. The water was rough and grey. Chesil beach was like an embankment in the background. At least the going was all flat and the sun was out. I went through a military firing area and had to bypass another, passed more huge holiday parks. Then I could see Portland island much more clearly: like a wedge with the wider part at the Weymouth end, with chalky cliffs. And then the bridge to the island where the lagoon flows into Weymouth Bay. When I reached the bridge I caught a bus to my hotel in Weymouth. 19 kms

6 October Today I had to walk around the Isle of Portland; it is connected to the mainland by a bridge and Chesil beach so its coast is regarded as part of the south west coast. I got the bus to the bridge, walked across it and along the backside of Chesil beach onto the island. I had a big climb to the high part of the wedge which was grassy and littered with limestone boulders, looking down on Chesil beach which disappeared into the horizon. The path continued along the west coast over low cliffs, pebbly coves below. The inland area was a mix of swathes of identical houses and grazing land. Eventually I came to the bottom of the island, Portland Bill, where there was a red and white lighthouse and an obelisk daymark at the tip.

I had a coffee and started my return up the east coast which was nicer because it was sheltered from the wind, first by stony bays and then passing several quarried areas. I had a look at Church Ope cove and the ruins of Rufus Castle on a rock above the cove and went inland to bypass an active quarry. As I came towards the Weymouth end of the island I again had great views over Chesil beach, Weymouth and Portland marina. I passed a large Victorian gun battery, a military zone and Portland Castle (Henry 8th). I quickly zipped across to the causeway for a return to Weymouth. 

I walked through Wyke Regis on a bike trail (with views of the white cliffs towards Lulworth) and on to Weymouth via the town harbour, turning off for my hotel at the start of the esplanade. 26 kms

7 October I walked out of very spread out Weymouth along the esplanade, the central beach was white sand but later it was back to small pebbles. Views back of another of Henry 8th's sea facing castles. After that came a smaller beach, Bowleaze, and a return to roller coaster conditions. The cliffs were gradually becoming higher, grass on top. I saw a horse and rider in chalk on an inland hillside.

When I reached Osmington Mills the path detoured through the pub grounds so I stopped for coffee.

I went along some fields and could see an alarmingly high cliff ahead. Soon the scenery became stunning,

some of the best on the trail except for the beaches being shingle not sand: sheer chalky cliffs, scalloped beaches, turquoise water.

It helped that the grey day had turned sunny. One of the cliff spurs had a tiny hole, Bats Hole, and there was a sea stack.

The path was extremely steep. I could see Durdle Door in the distance at the end of a long beach but it was only when I was close that the huge size of the limestone arch became apparent and the strange angle as it hangs off the beach. Just alongside was another lovely bay, Man o' War, with a double beach and long sea stack. I climbed up again and then had a cobbled descent into Lulworth Cove village (extremely busy) and my hotel. 

I did a short walk out to Lulworth Cove, pebbly beach beneath a lovely arc of white rock;

that is as far as I can go because the MOD Lulworth firing range is in use this week and the onward trail is closed. I had a cream tea. 20 kms

8 October I got a bus to Wareham and another to Corfe Castle to get around the very large military zone and resumed walking below the castle ruins. First I visited Norman fortifications in a field, had good views of the remaining bits of the castle on the hill

then walked across fields and on lanes to Kimmeridge. From the highest point I could just see Poole harbour.

Past Kimmeridge I rejoined the SWCP on the other side of the firing range (I heard some firing). A kestrel was enjoying a thermal by the cliff. The path was along the cliff edge and had some monster climbs with good views back to the white Lulworth ranges, Portland looking like a wedge again and a bump on the horizon for Weymouth. I walked with someone chatting for a few kilometres to Houns Tout cliff top. When I left there I saw my watch had just clocked 1000 kilometres.

I crossed wide grassy valleys and went above Chapmans Pool, a cove with calm turquoise water. Next on to St Aldhelms Head, a striking headland with sheer sides; on the way a walker warned me of steps and I was surprised (but not surprised) there was a major descent and climb that I couldn't see. There was a Norman chapel on the headland, coastguard cabin and ruins of buildings from a WW2 radar station. I contoured past fields with cows and sheep on the cliffs. It was a grey day constantly threatening rain and I was tired so I stopped early to camp above an old quarry (with an old ship's cannon on a plinth) on Hedbury cliff. Very windy night. 22 kms

9 October Promise of a sunny day so I decided to get to the finish today. I rushed off early and was immediately at Dancing Ledge, a dark rock platform that looks like a dance floor below the pale cliffs. Then on to the lighthouse at Durlston Head. Looking back the sun was shining on the white cliffs and the almost full moon was still up. I stopped to have breakfast on a rock ledge below the lighthouse out of the wind; there were huge caves in the rocks beside the ledge. Saw a falcon on a cliff. At Durlston Castle there was a big limestone globe and a view towards Bournemouth. I descended via Peveril Point to the harbour and beach at Swanage, ornate clock tower, the town backing a curved sandy beach.

I left Swanage on the esplanade but had to make a detour on streets where it ended, then had my last steep climb on Ballard Downs. At the top I walked a couple of kilometres on a grassy headland out to the tip, where I could see Old Harry Rocks: tall chalk sea stacks, one with an archway, off the sheer chalk cliffs.

Amazing sight and busy. I could also see the sandy spit where the SWCP ends (at the end of a long beach), Bournemouth, white cliffs on the Isle of Wight and brown cliffs on the mainland coast heading east. I made coffee at the lookout area; a shame I was only able to lounge in the sun on my last day.

I descended to the beach at Studland and then went through the village and returned to the beach for the final stretch to South Haven Point. The beach was sandy with gentle waves, and busy with walkers. This is probably the most flat beach walking on the whole route. The beach was backed by low dunes and heather behind the dunes. Looking back to Old Harry Rocks almost every rock and cliff had a hole or arch.

I got to South Haven Point where there was a blue metal sculpture to indicate the end point of the SWCP, rather low key compared to the start and half way markers.

I went on the ferry, a full size car ferry, across to Sandbanks, and I was done. 21 kms

Total 1030 kms, 46 days including 2 rest days, elevation gain 32253 m