South West Coast Path, England - Part 1

This walk had been on my bucket list for a long time. A coast walk to beat all others. I was very unlucky with the weather; the continual days of rain in the first four weeks really got me down and I had to allow myself to make little changes to the route in order to be able to continue. It's a spectacular walk although I hadn't appreciated that by sticking religiously to the coast the official route goes into almost every cove/bay and also goes up, over and down to sea level at almost every headland on an extremely indented coastline; this made for demanding walking, which is ok, but it was a bit tedious at times. I had never imagined there could be so many steps on so many steep slopes on a footpath.

What surprised me the most was the amount of change in the coastline: the different forms, composition and colours of the rock; variety in the beaches from sand to various sizes of pebbles; different character of the cliffs whether sheer or sloping, the undercliff vegetated or not, the cliff tops flat with grass/bracken or bare rock. About fifteen ferries are part of the official route.

25 August I was excited to finally be on my way. I got a photo by the sculpture at the Somerset start of the South West Coast Path and walked out of Minehead past a small harbour and pebbly beach.

Then I climbed a hill into forest as I saw several other groups of coast path walkers and emerged onto the tops. There was a long stretch of pebble beach far below and up on the rolling tops was a mix of farmland, grassy pasture and gorse/moorland. I could just about make out Swansea and the Gower across the Bristol Channel. True to its reputation the path descended steeply into gullies and climbed out until I could see small villages. At that point I went the wrong way and had to retrace, then I had a steep descent to sea level and the village of Bossington. Shorty after I arrived in Porlock and I had intended to camp there but it was way too early, the pub was closed in the evening and it wasn't an interesting place.

It was a hot day. I bought food and went on across Porlock Marsh, billed as a fascinating place but nothing was happening there. (Between here and the Hangmans is part of Exmoor National Park.) A long stretch on big pebbles and I came into Porlock Weir. The pub was lively so I had a pint of shandy outside. I walked up to the local campsite, not sure what to expect; just a few campers around the edge of a farmer's field with a fantastic view over the marsh and long beach and the Bristol Channel. The farmer was looking forward to the coming rain, a prospect I paid little heed that day. 20 kms

26 August I left the field and ate breakfast down by the little harbour. Then I spent a long time on the wooded slopes of a succession of headlands with little in the way of sea views but crossing many steep gullies with small waterfalls and streams. Early on I passed tiny Culbone church. Then an old stone cross above a dry spring at Sisters Fountain. It rained briefly and the Welsh coastline was hardly visible. I went wrong again. I stopped at a stream to make coffee and a few day walkers came past; after seeing so many walkers yesterday I didn't see a single walker with a pack all day. I crossed into Devon.

Eventually I descended almost to sea level and climbed back up on bracken/gorse covered hills; there was pebbly beach all along the coast which I hadn't been aware of. Ahead I could see Lynmouth and its deep pebble beach. Further on I had a lovely view looking back at the headlands and dominant Foreland Head that I had crossed. 

I reached Lynmouth after a gradual descent on a bracken slope, crossed the river and was amazed how busy the town was, without any obvious appeal. I had an ice cream and walked up the notoriously steep path to Lynton, twice crossing above the water-powered rack railway which was almost vertical. I stayed at a campsite near the town. 23 kms

27 August It started raining as I headed off and at the edge of town I sat in a small shelter. When the rain eased I walked along the cliff edge through the Valley of Rocks, unusual granite formations on the hilltops including pinnacles, the most impressive being Castle Rock; the rock really looked like the entrance to a castle.

I was in woods for a while, almost like rainforest, and grazing land as I walked high up, with glimpses into a couple of tucked away bays.

The weather cleared up and I descended to Heddons Mouth, crossed the river inland from the bay and made a big ascent. Higher up I had a lovely view of the headlands back down the coast.

At the second high point I turned abruptly into more rain and the coast became misty. I wasn't to know this was the beginning of four weeks of rain.

The trail continued climbing and I ended up on heathery moorland then had a steep descent to cross a stream and went right back up onto the moorland and to the summit of Great Hangman (318 m), highest sea cliff in England. There was a great view of inland farmland and the rocky coast. I descended towards Little Hangman with good coastal views and turned for Combe Martin. Sunshine had returned. I had a clotted cream tea beside the narrow bay with its rock platforms. Since it was sunny I walked on four kilometres to a hilltop campsite with a lovely sea outlook and camped under an enormous sycamore tree. 27 kms

28 August A lot of rain in the night. I went over a couple of headlands (this trail doesn't miss any opportunity to climb a steep headland and I will have to get used to this) towards Ilfracombe getting a good view of the town and its harbour from the high hill in Hele.

The sky was really black as I was leaving Ilfracombe so I stopped for coffee and waited as the rain came and finished.

I climbed the trail towards Torres Point, hilly moorland, and as I left the lookout on top the rain began to bucket down, this continued for over an hour as I finished the moorland paths and came onto a downhill sealed road that was flowing like a river. As I reached rocky Lee Bay the sun came out. Somehow I missed a turn and ended up a bit inland (some people I'd been following remarked that I looked like I was walking for a week) crossing paddocks until I reached a village, and the rain returned. It was falling at such an angle that I could shelter standing beside a hedge. The rain eased and I walked out to Morte Point with views of granite spurs along the coast.

On the rocky path at the point it was so windy I could barely walk. Coming in to Mortehoe the beaches I could see were sandy for the first time including the long sweep of Woolacombe Sands and I could just discern Lundy Island in the Bristol Channel. I got a pasty in Woolacombe and waited while it rained again.

Then I walked along the back of Woolacombe Sands and up onto the grassy hills leading to Baggy Point. I was lucky that a black cloud passed without impacting me. It became increasingly windy as I approached the point, like before. From there I could see down the coast as far as Hartland Point, many days' walk away. I continued past rock platforms to the edge of Croyde, its sandy beach and my campsite. I had specifically picked this (expensive) campsite from home because of its beachfront location but I had to camp behind a hedge to get shelter from the wind and listen to the waves without seeing anything. It felt like winter. 29 kms

Early in the night it rained heavily and my tent floor flooded. I managed to keep my mat clear of the wet part and I slept in my rain jacket just in case.

29 August I walked across Croyde beach in driving rain but the water looked good because there was sun shining on the surf. After a nasty bit of busy road walking I was at the edge of Saunton Sands which was an impressive long beach, shelving gradually with tiers of gentle waves, high dunes behind. 

Then a very long stretch through Braunton Burrows, basically unusable land that used to be maintained by rabbits - marram grass, gorse, low mounds. I found it rather boring despite its ecological significance. The only excitement was a wonderful rainbow; soon rain followed.

The trail came to a spot just short of the Taw River estuary but I had to go all the way to Barnstaple to cross the river. I continued on a flood embankment alongside the river. When I reached the edge of Braunton I was very pleased to see a cafe as I hadn't expected this unless I detoured into the town. 

From there I walked speedily along a rail trail beside the river. Lots of little water birds. No rain. Then Barnstaple appeared and its long multi arched stone bridge, and I went through the town centre to the pub I was staying at. A quiet town and another Wetherspoons curry. 24 kms 

30 August I wanted to get as far as I could before the rain came. I crossed the long stone bridge and returned to the rail trail alongside the Taw River to Instow. Along here I saw for the first time another person picking blackberries. At Instow I stuck my head inside a cafe and decided to walk on. Appledore was a mere 500 metres away across the Torridge River but I had to make a 10 kilometre trip of it by only being able to cross this river at Bideford. I had light rain on the way to Bideford then five minutes after I sat down in a riverside cafe it poured. There was another long stone bridge and old buildings on the hill behind the river.

I ventured out when the rain seemed to stop and the walk on this side was nicer: some woods, boardwalks, riverside where ancient boat hulls were rotting in the mud, but as I approached Appledore the rain worsened. The whole river area including Instow which was just opposite was in mist. I had to stop at a cafe in Appledore to dry out.

It wouldn't stop raining. Instow completely disappeared. The cafe was closing so I left, but as soon as I was outside it was again raining heavily and I went across the road to a bus shelter. The rain stopped and I walked on out of Appledore.

The sun came out. I started through Northam Burrows, another area of grassland, where I could see the dunes at the edge of Saunton Sands. As the crow flies I had not come far in two days. Suddenly it poured and the wind was so strong I couldn't walk straight. I followed the trail onto, surprisingly, a golf course and I was separated from the sea by a beach of big pebbles. I continued to Westward Ho! and bought food. The place had a nice seafront and I would have liked to stay there but there was no campsite.

Now the weather really cleared up apart from the wind. I walked out of the town above rock platforms until I came to a bit of grass beside the path where I thought I could camp. It was incredibly windy and the tent was blowing around like crazy; just as I dozed off it collapsed but soon after I got it back up the wind dropped enough to be bearable. 31 kms

31 August In the morning I found a hole had been ripped in the fly. That put me in a bad mood. I undulated along the cliff tops in sunshine above pebble beaches

with a view across the bay to the white buildings of Clovelly. I could see from Morte Point to Hartland Point. I stopped at an abandoned building to make coffee and bumped into a guy I met with his friend on the first day, the only other walkers I've met doing the whole path. After having a long conversation and making coffee I felt a lot better. The trail was often in woods on the cliffs with a few views, nice walking, and crossing a few fields. I went through a tiny sea level village and climbed back up onto the wooded cliffs. Later I was on a long gravel road descending to Clovelly with some good lookouts over the little harbour as I got close. The trail stayed above the village and I went to the cafe in the visitor centre. I literally walked into the building and the heavens opened.

While I was inside I realised I had a problem: no shop in Clovelly and no shop all day tomorrow and I had almost no food. So I had to leave the SWCP and walk to the nearest village with a shop, Hartland, missing a little stretch of coast. It was a blessing in disguise because Hartland had a campsite and I found a sheltered spot on another incredibly windy night. The shop was under stocked and I had difficulty finding meals for tonight and tomorrow and the next day. 23 kms

1 September Rained all night and my repair worked. After I got up I used the hand dryer in the bathroom to dry out my tent somewhat. I had a leisurely breakfast with a bike rider at the cafe in the village and walked back to the SWCP; I found a nice route following a stream then an empty road, and had a view of the high tower of St Nectan church. The sun was out then suddenly it poured then the sun came back, it was like this all day, and unpleasantly windy.

I returned to the coast above Shipload beach with a craggy headland and went on to Hartland Point, another impressive headland,

and as I rounded the point I could see the lighthouse tucked away on a ledge beneath the high rocks, and also Lundy Island.

This is where the Bristol Channel meets the Atlantic Ocean and the east-west coast makes an abrupt turn southwards.

The coast featured grand rocky headlands

and the path made several steep descents to cross between the headlands and return to the cliff tops (often endless steps) with views of successive headlands a long way south. The wind was ferocious. I passed a couple of pebble beaches and descended to Hartland Quay with unusual rock ribs. 

Another climb on the edge of farmland to Spekes Mill, a high waterfall coming from a hanging valley to reach the sea via several pools.

I walked through this bracken filled valley out of the wind then returned to the coast and turned off across fields for Elmscott YHA. I could see Lundy Island from there and the wind. 16 kms

2 September I returned to the coast in light rain which soon stopped. The path was along the cliff top at first then descended sharply to Welcombe Mouth where a stream cascaded down to the sea. Immediately a steep climb back up and an immediate descent to Marsland Mouth where I entered Cornwall. Steep climb back up and descent to another bay. The coastline was spectacular: sheer granite cliffs that were beautifully punctuated by little streams that had carved deep gashes and ended up at beaches.

I had one more big climb then I went across a field, passed Morwenstow church and went to the rectory tea rooms that had been recommended.

After that I had some cliff top grass then a couple more of those dizzying vertical descents to cross a little stream and straight back up. I hadn't seen anyone before the tea rooms but now the path was busy. Eventually I reached a satellite dish I had seen on a hill top for hours, and cows. It rained a few times. I went over a point with very jumbled rock and down to Sandy Mouth beach and from there the going was less severe. I went above some sandy surf beaches, passed Northcott Mouth and got to Bude, a sprawling town with several sandy beaches. All I wanted was food and with difficulty I located a supermarket up yet another hill. I crossed the canal and walked uphill out of Bude and returned to the coast with a few kilometres of grass topped cliffs and views of headlands stretching a long way west. Looking back to the satellite station the cliff views and rock platforms were still amazing.

I ended up at a campsite in Widemouth opposite the sandy beach. I put up my tent but I was very worried about the forecast heavy rain and after chatting with the owners (who wouldn't let me sleep in their store room) they set me up a four person Tesco tent! Then I went to the pub next door for fish and chips. 28 kms

3 September Even this solid tent was very buffeted in the night. I walked along Widemouth beach and went up on the cliffs, then a couple of sheer drops to cross a stream followed by immediate ascents. It started pouring and I went into woods which offered some shelter then I was on grassy cliffs again. Along here the cliff faces were forested and later covered with heather and gorse rather than being bare rock. The path was muddy and slippery and many of the kissing gates had a big puddle where I had to step; there are far too many of these and they are always tricky with a backpack. On a steep descent I slipped over on the slick path, just before a location marker saying I was at Thorns beach. I came a bit inland as it started raining again passing a folly at St Gennys, and descended to Crackington Haven, a village on a deep inlet, for a flapjack. The wind had picked up big time.

I climbed back onto the cliffs and the path was over grass. It was so windy that at one point it pushed me over and there were several times I had to stop and lean on my poles. I made a call that it was too dangerous and I found an alternative route slightly inland, still with coastal views and still windy but not unsafe. And excellent blackberries. I had another try on the coast after Big Cliff but the wind was still too strong.

When I got near to Boscastle I returned to the SWCP by a beautiful granite faced bay and the path was a bit protected. I went towards a lookout over Boscastle and it suddenly poured so I waited for the sun to get a nice view over the island off shore and the narrow rocky entrance to the tiny harbour. Even in the constant rain the village was pretty, in a valley that was only wide enough for one line of old stone buildings along each bank of the river. 21 kms

4 September I left Boscastle with strong wind and had four chasms to cross one after the other. The final one was a lovely rocky gully and as a bonus the sun was coming out.

Very undulating to Tintagel mainly over grass with rocky coves and sea caves and some very high sheer cliffs.

I saw many typical Cornish herringbone style slate walls. Before descending to Tintagel I had a good view of the castle and great hall ruins on hill tops above the sandy beach (more sea caves). Just past the castle I called in at St Materiana church with an old rood screen and stained glass windows. Further on was a tall slate sea stack in a bay of slate cliffs. I stopped at pretty Trebarwith Strand, cone shaped rock off shore, for coffee. There was lots of blue sky.

I could clearly see the houses of Port Isaac but it was a tough walk to get there, many headlands to get up and over. An immediate set of steep climbs was followed by a stretch on grassy hills and then a whole series of headlands to climb and valleys to cross, each with a little stream. The streams are completely out of proportion to the effort required to cross them. I had lovely views back down the coast, the sea was turquoise. A last descent to Port Gaverne, the bay full of seaweed, and I went up the road into Port Isaac. The bus to Rock was just due, where I intended to get the ferry to Padstow and camp. But as the bus went through Polzeath I noticed a campsite and the beach looked nice so I stayed there instead. It had barely rained all day then it rained as I put up my tent and again when I went to the beach. 22 kms

5 September I got the bus back to Port Isaac

and had a treat walking without my pack until Polzeath. It rained all the way on the bus and then stopped. The path wound around the coast and was spectacular the entire way if rather tiring. First Port Quin which was a tiny inlet with a few houses, then passing a folly on a hill called Droyden, and a stretch passing several really lovely sandy coves including Lundy Bay which was busy. The coast along here had plenty of sea caves and unusual rock formations. Next landmark was The Rumps, two hills with Iron Age forts, both a steep climb.

I could still see Tintagel church back down the coast. The path went out to Pentire Head with great views of the rocky coastline and turned abruptly for Polzeath. I could see the beach and I thought I was just about done but there were two hidden bays to walk around and then I walked across the beach to retrieve my pack.

I finished off this bay and started up the Camel River estuary passing a couple of long sandy beaches, much nicer than earlier days' beaches. I walked along a ridge on dunes until coming down to Rock and the ferry across the estuary to Padstow. It rained the whole ferry trip then stopped. 

Padstow was busy, pretty with old buildings backing the harbour and I sat there for a long break having difficulty deciding between two campsites, neither of which were convenient, and I picked the one near a supermarket. Which turned out to have a good estuary view. 21 kms 

6 September I had breakfast by St Petroc 15th c church, tower had nice turrets, then went out to the coast passing a stately home Prideaux Place with a field full of deer with antlers. It was sunny but very windy. I walked on grass along medium height cliffs passing a high lookout tower then many pretty coves, sandy and rocky.

Just before Trevone I came to Trevone Round Hole which was a bizarre large hole on the hillside 40 metres deep with beach pebbles at ground level and sheer rock sides, a collapsed cave/sinkhole.

The beach was wide and a mix of sand and rock platforms. Not much further on was Harlan Bay with a golden sand beach and I stopped for a coffee.

I walked across the sand, got a bit worried there was no way up the cliff at the end of the beach but found a path. Then a walk along the cliffs to Trevose Head at the end of a skinny peninsula which I had mistily seen from Widemouth. There was a bright white lighthouse and nearby another sinkhole.

The path went onto a big sandy beach to walk across at Constantine Bay and while I had a break I chatted with a pair of hard core hikers who had done the SWCP. Next Treyarnon Bay and a walk on the sand. Being a sunny Saturday these lovely beaches were busy and there were lots of walkers, mostly with dogs. The wind made walking a trial.

The next stretch of coast was breathtaking: headlands with chunks of rock broken off, narrow coves, churning water, lots of gulls. The path went around the headlands without the big climbs and descents of the past few days. Minnows Islands was a collection of big rocks, and Porthcothan Bay had a narrow sandy beach; I got a pasty at the shop.

This was as far as I intended going today but it was too early for wild camping and I walked on. The wind was extreme and I knew it would be hard to find somewhere to camp so I was already looking and seeing nothing sheltered. I got as far as Bedruthan Steps, huge rocks off the cliffs that a giant had used as stepping stones.

In desperation I phoned a campsite that was closed and asked if I could camp there anyway, but I couldn't find the place. As I was wandering around searching I noticed a caravan in a field and headed over and this was a different campsite with a number of tents. So lucky! I pitched next to a hedge and was sheltered. 27 kms

7 September It started raining in the night, eased as I walked to Mawgan Porth and then a series of deluges as I sat under a rare covered shelter to have breakfast. In lighter rain I went on above the long sandy beach of Watergate Bay; it looked good even in bad weather.

The path was often flooded. The views were misty towards Newquay. Just before Porth I sheltered inside a restaurant without being noticed. Then I followed streets into Newquay and my hotel was before the main town.

The sun came out after I finished walking. Newquay beach was sandwiched between high cliffs, far too far to walk down. 12 kms

8 September Decided to walk without my pack and return by bus to collect it later. After dispatching my worn out Notch at the post office I walked out of Newquay. First task was to cross the wide estuary of the Gannel River and I had to walk on a submerged boardwalk over the main channel as it was not yet low tide. Then I walked around beautiful Crantock Beach, already packed because the weather was good, and up onto the cliffs. Soon I came to a cove with seals on the sand and in the water. Then out over West Pentire Head and onto the high dunes behind Holywell Beach, more golden sand. I came down to the beach to visit the cafe.

I went back up on the cliffs and past a few deeply incised coves, in one a cave had a slit right through, with views back to Trevose Head lighthouse. Then I was up on the dunes approaching Perran Beach, a stunning strip of golden sand three kilometres long. Instead of walking through the dunes I walked the length of the beach on firm sand with lots of other people.

The rocky cliffs at the Perranporth end were full of caves. I got the bus back to Newquay, bought food and picked up my pack, and had the same bus driver take me back to Perranporth. 

I had to wait out a shower then I climbed onto the cliff tops again, saw the big natural arch at Droskyne Point, and walked through a really strange, remote area of moorland on Cligga Head with mining tailings heaps, subsidence due to mining and discoloured rock. The wind was strong and gusty and the path was fairly exposed with a big drop to the sea in places. Unlike earlier, hardly anyone was around. I left this area for a campsite where I pitched my new Durston tent. So much more spacious than the Notch. 22 kms

9 September Bad weather forecast. I returned to the moorland cliff tops, soon descended to the narrow bay of St Agnes then went up again.

I saw a rainbow across the path and then another out at sea over some rocks.

Blue sky. I thought the forecast must be wrong. The moorland walking was nice even when light rain came - yellow flowering gorse, heather. I came to a mining area with ruined buildings and I sheltered by one of them; it didn't have a roof but the window arches were deep enough to offer shelter.

I continued past tailings heaps, chimneys, adits, mined hollows down to Porth Beach and up again. I got to Porthtowan and hopped inside the first cafe, very lucky because soon the rain was heavy and it was like a whiteout.

Quite suddenly all the groups of walkers in the cafe put on their jackets and got ready to go outside so I thought I should do the same. Unfortunately it was too early: it was raining lightly and within minutes it got heavier. The path featured several of the steep climbs and descents to stream crossings and was just a waterlogged mess. I only noticed one patch of headland scenery.

I was relieved to reach Portreath and went in a cafe where I chatted with a woman doing a section to St Ives. We sat there for over an hour until the weather appeared to clear up and the forecast said the rain was over.

I bought food and left. The path climbed and went very close to sheer drops following around a couple of almost circular coves. The sun came out for about a minute then the rain returned. At first it was light but it was steady showing no sign of stopping. I had a quick glimpse of Godrevy lighthouse. Then it got worse and worse. There were little parking bays all along the cliffs with people sitting in their cars. At one point the coastline made an abrupt change of direction and I saw a line of headlands but mainly I saw nothing apart from puddles. 

I walked as fast as I could and when the path came to a road I saw a cafe named Hells Mouth and I sheltered under the entrance doorway (it was closed). This was actually the name of a feature along here but needless to say I couldn't see it. From there I continued on the road, as I wasn't going to see anything from the path and it was impossible to walk without stepping in the deep puddles with the dense vegetation on each side. I reached Gwithian and stopped at the first campsite. The tiny village had three large campsites because of a long beach I hadn't been able to see. The sky seemed to clear and then there was an almighty deluge, a real test for my tent. I walked down to the village pub and had a cider. 26 kms

10 September I left my pack at the campsite. The SWCP went through a vast area of dunes called the Towans and I walked all over the dunes, which extended a long way inland from the beach, trying to get a view of this beach which has also been called Britain's best beach. Eventually I climbed the highest dune I could find and could see the endless white sand beach, which I could not fault.

I went down there and walked on the sand as far as I could then went on a track behind some houses and did a bit more on the sand. I could see Godrevy lighthouse on a rock which I had missed seeing properly yesterday.

Then I had to get across Hayle River and through Hayle which was the most tedious section so far. I had to go through an industrial area then along a busy road passing extensive flooded marshland before reaching leafy lanes. It was raining steadily the whole time. I came back to the coast and found myself on the wrong side of the railway line so I had to climb two gates with big warnings.

Things improved when I came to Porth Kidney Sands; the weather was clearing slightly and the beach looked lovely, soon followed by another beach at Carbis Bay. I could see all of St Ives Bay for the first time including Gwithian, Godrevy lighthouse, all of Towans beach and dunes and the sun came out. I continued to St Ives getting a wonderful view of the town, little lighthouse and beach. A definite highlight of the trail.

The town was super busy and the streets were congested due to being so narrow. I walked along the waterfront and had an ice cream before climbing the headland which had a small chapel, windy up there. I descended the far side and looked for the bus to Gwithian. The sunshine was gone. I retrieved my pack and came back to St Ives for the night. I had a Cornish cream tea. 19 kms

11 September I left my pack in St Ives and headed out of town under a blue sky. The path soon went onto gorse and bracken covered slopes on the cliffs. It was high tide and the sea was churning away, and looked great as it was blue for a change with the surf a dazzling white.

For a while I could still see the moon and there was a rainbow below it. There were rocky outcrops and for a long time the path was between quite large rocks which made for slow walking. I passed a stone circle. The path was muddy. Further along the terrain changed to big boulders everywhere and the headland rocks were more blocky. The path was constantly up and down as I went over headlands and had to cross the gullies between, often with bridges, but this was nothing like the dizzying climbs and descents before Bude. Early on there was a strong squall and I could barely get my rain pants on in time. It didn't last long. A big gap until the next one but there was a nasty wind all day.

Zennor Head was an impressive headland and after that there were far more walkers on the path.

As the tide went out I could see little sandy beaches in the coves. There were plenty of ruins near the path, roofless buildings. Eventually I could see Pendeen lighthouse a few headlands away and when I got closer there was a pretty beach nearby.

I went around the point and crossed fields to get to Boscaswell and the bus; an earlier bus was just leaving so I walked on to Pendeen where there was a shop. It took over three hours to get back to St Ives for my pack and on to Penzance YHA to camp. Very rainy and windy night. 23 kms

12 September I got the bus back to Boscaswell and began the day walking through a former tin mining area with ruined buildings and chimneys. Soon there was a heavy shower and I was able to get into the corner of a ruin and shelter. I went on towards Cape Cornwall on the cliffs above the rough sea

and when I reached there I decided to cut across because it looked like rain was coming and I would get the full force of it on the cape. Good decision because in two minutes it was raining hard and I sheltered in someone's shed. From the cliffs along there I had a view of still distant Lands End. I detoured to an Iron Age burial chamber and passed hill forts. As I approached Sennen Cove the path uncharacteristically contoured the cliffs lower down, beside bouldery beaches and when I was above Sennen beach, beautiful white sand, I clambered over boulders so I could walk into the village on the sand.

I went over a hill with a viewpoint towards Lands End, the rocky headland and the lighthouse on rocks a mile out to sea,

and descended to the white building at the point in sunshine. One rock nearby was covered with cormorants. I had a coffee and started the South Cornwall coast. More headlands and wild surf and moorland on the cliff tops. It poured but was less windy.

I went above Porth Loe beach with sheer cliffs and boulders and then cut across to Porthgwarra beach, sandy. Chatted with a Melbourne couple. It wasn't far to Porthcurno's first sandy beach

and the Minack theatre where I went inland for the bus to Penzance. A very wet night. 24 kms

13 September Day 20 Bus back to Porthcurno and it was sunny. I met the Melbourne couple from yesterday. I walked along the cliffs passing one bouldery headland after another. Lots of balancing boulders and stacks of flat boulders. The path was constantly undulating and had some long flights of steps, lots of muddy bits and big rocks to negotiate. Stepping stones across a stream, some horses grazing, cliff top fort, a beach of boulders to cross, Celtic cross and a cute lighthouse. I was hot by the time I reached Lamorna Bay but I pushed on towards Mousehole dreaming of a Cornish cream tea. This was a day for clicking over the kilometres. Mousehole was very pretty as I approached it getting the classic view of the little harbour/beach and buildings stacked above. I got a takeaway cream tea. 

Then I walked beside the road around huge Mounts Bay with a view of land all the way to Lizard Point. I could see St Michael's Mount in the distance. I walked through Newlyn full of boatyards and got to Penzance, went to my hotel.

After a rest I continued on the flat bayside path to Marazion where St Michael's Mount is connected by a tidal causeway. It was nice walking towards such a distinctive landmark as the castle became clearer and clearer.

Marazion was quaint with several churches but everything was just closing. The day cooled down quickly and then, of course, it rained as I waited for the bus back to Penzance. 24 kms

469 kms so far

14 September Rest day in Penzance. Rained all day. Walked into town and along foreshore (zero visibility). Lots of cake and a cream tea. Found a good restaurant for dinner.

15 September I was worried about the special warning of strong winds and I decided to take an inland route so I got the bus back to Marazion, had breakfast and set off on mainly quiet roads. I went through several villages and it was easy walking. The weather was really changeable, one minute the sun was shining and the next minute it was raining hard so I was constantly looking for places to shelter and mostly I was successful. It was very windy, luckily a tailwind. After getting to the high point on Tregonning Hill I could see the sea and the road was then close to the coast, the sea was grey and rough. I descended into Porthleven which initially looked unattractive with masses of newish houses but as I got close I was surprised to see the shore was dominated by a large church

and there was a harbour extending several hundred metres inland. It was sunny and I met some walkers who were going to camp further on so I decided to go on and maybe camp with them.

I was back on the SWCP and had the full force of the wind behind me as I walked close to the water. I had to cross the beach which formed a sandbar cutting off a lake and then went onto low cliffs. The walking was fairly flat and I came to the turnoff to a pub. I went there and saw the walkers I'd met earlier but no campsite, however there was another group of walkers (doctors) who were going to wild camp near the pub and after a nice dinner at the pub we camped at the edge of a field, well sheltered from the wind. 21 kms

16 September The wind eventually died down in the night. The path passed several little coves, not very attractive because there was a lot of foamy scum. It was a grey day but no rain. I came to little St Winwaloe church tucked into the dunes; some of the pillars in the nave were leaning at an angle.

The cliffs got higher and after Mullion Cove there was a sandy bay where I stopped for coffee. I climbed back up onto the cliffs and walked on grass with increasingly good views of dark granite headlands and larger coves with big solitary rocks, to Predannack Head.

There weren't many people around until Kynance Cove with interesting rock formations (featured a cafe on a terrace which dominated the view from above) where things got busy.

I could see Lizard Point clearly, Britain's most southerly point, and the path undulated along the tops passing Old Lizard Head, to the end. I saw a couple of red legged choughs.

At Lizard Point I had a break then walked on past the lighthouse and called in at the Marconi memorial exhibit. Then I passed another signal station, a lifeboat base and a coastguard lookout. The water was calm, now the English Channel. I tried a route across a field and ended up having to climb a fence then descend a whopper set of steps to rejoin the real path. The path became a roller coaster through bracken crossing streams between headlands. When I got to the edge of Cadgwith I turned off for a campsite in a field. Then I walked across fields into Cadgwith; it was on a double inlet with a harbour on one side of a rocky rib, beach on the other and steep streets. There was no shop in the village so I had an early bowl of chips at the pub and the doctors walked in. 23 kms

17 September It was an awful night of strong winds and rain which kept me awake. In the morning it was drizzly with everything in mist. I made breakfast outside the pub then climbed back onto the cliffs for a tedious morning of ups and downs, tedious because the many coves and beaches were misty and the wind was a nuisance. I walked across grey Kennack Sands and climbed along to Black Head where there was a hut to shelter. I walked with the doctors to Black Head. The path was muddy and slippery. Entertainment was provided by a cow that suddenly appeared on the trail from within a bramble hideout and followed us along the path to rejoin her mates who were quite content standing blocking our way.

After that the path changed direction so the wind was less of a problem but soon I began a descent to a pebble beach below Chynhalls Point and this turned out to be a horrible kilometre of trail: steep, rocky, muddy, slippery with nothing to see due to high brambles and I slipped over landing in nettles. I walked into Coverack and wasn't happy the cafe was full, until someone made me a space.

From there I chose an inland route because the official path continued nasty as before with no views and followed minor roads and tracks to Porthoustock, a concrete bay, then more roads and fields on the official trail to Porthallow (passing a pile of disc like boulders which had been moved inland from the cliffs) where everything was closed down or closed. A major centre for the pilchard industry.

This is the half way point of the SWCP so it should have been an exciting moment arriving there and seeing the huge slab of a sign indicating half way but heavier rain started and I just felt glum.

I had no choice but to go on and the next section called for walking across a river estuary which can only be done at low tide; it was very close to high tide so I picked a route that would take me to where I could cross the river on a bridge and continue to the ferry across the Helford River. The walking was pleasant: fields, roads, woods with minimal views because of the mist. I had to rush to get the last ferry of the day (the ferryman commiserated with me about the weather but couldn't offer any hope for the next few days) and on the other side I went into the pub to assess my options for the night. I was already close to Falmouth so I ended up making a dash (a hard uphill run) for the bus to the town - had to pour my drink into a bottle - and the day ended nicely at the hotel I had already booked for tomorrow night. It was pouring in Falmouth and I went to a burger place at the port but could barely see the boats. 27 kms

South West Coast Path - Part 2

18 September  Bus back to Helford Passage and I picked up the SWCP to head past little bays still on the Helford estuary. A trail runner came towards me and I stepped off the path into brambles but no ground! The path rounded a point and I was on the coast again, walking through fields and woods above extensive rock platforms. I could still see up the estuary full of moored boats. I went around Rosmullion Head and descended to Maenporth and Swanpool beaches. Then continued over a headland to Gyllyngvase beach in Falmouth. Pendennis Castle on a wooded headland above Falmouth was clearly in view. The sun tried to come out but failed.

I walked out to Pendennis Point, walking along the castle moat, the castle resolutely out of sight (in reality unnecessary tedium and I shouldn't have bothered) and from the point I had a view across to St Mawes and St Anthony's lighthouse. Then back to the docks area for lunch. 15 kms

19 September I had to take a ferry to St Mawes and then another to Place; I sat with a walker I last saw at Porthcothan Bay who is doing the whole trail. I cut across St Anthony's Head and walked out to a low headland. The path went through fields and just before Towan beach I passed a tiny cove with over twenty seals lying on the sand.

I walked along Towan beach as it was low tide then again on low cliffs to Portscatho, a big village with a sandy beach. I could see ahead as far as Nare Head and it looked misty in that direction, but I was pleased that the coastal scenery was regaining its high standards.

I also walked along another pair of long shelly beaches, Pendower and Carne, before beginning the long climb to Nare Head and on the way I met my wild camping doctor friends; I walked with them to Portloe and that lifted my spirits which had been extremely low (because someone had told me a cyclone was coming). The sloe berries here were giant sized. Portloe was a pretty place tucked behind dark rocks.

I needed a break but I still had a long way to go and £5 for coffee was ridiculous so I powered on. The path was an unceasing roller coaster through bracken, hard work, until Portholland, two separate clusters of bayside houses, followed by more up and down to Porthluney beach and opposite the beach was a stately home, Caerhayes Castle, that looked completely over the top. Lots of pheasants in the fields, for shooting. I had a massive climb on a hillside full of sheep and a descent to Boswinger; the campsite was closed so I went on to the hostel and I was able to get a room. Two days without rain! 27 kms

20 September My mojo has for no reason suddenly returned. It was misty as I went down to Hemmick beach - bleak - and began my climb on bracken covered slopes to Dodman Head, highest cliff in south Cornwall. The few stunted trees were at a horizontal lean. With drizzle and mist I decided to cut across just shy of the summit as I wasn't going to see anything. As I descended above sandy Vault beach the rain increased and became heavy for the last part to Gorran Haven, nice stone buildings, where I stopped at a cafe and had a long chat with the owner. Eventually the rain lessened and I set off again, inland since no views on the coast and I didn't enjoy the flooded path.

I walked along typical Cornish roads with high hedgerows, hilly, and returned to the coast at Portmellon beach for the walk into Mevagissey. Another beautifully situated village with a protected harbour and lots of tourists. I tried to eat a sandwich sitting by the harbour but I had to seek shelter from the rain. 

I thought I would use the day to get ahead on my schedule. I walked inland to Pentewan, with a huge caravan park on the beach, in almost constant rain, and started up the hill but I had to stop when the rain became torrential. It was supposed to have stopped by then but it remained heavy until I was half way to Charlestown, then the wind picked up like crazy. Water was pouring down the road and I was constantly avoiding puddles. The sky became quite blue but it still rained. I saw a fantastic rainbow above Porthpean.

I turned for Charlestown and walked sharply downhill. The village was focused on its historic harbour which was surrounded by tourist shops. The rain kept returning. I walked on a bit, sheltered at a large hotel and returned to the coast path. Sunny now. I passed sandy beaches and had a good view of Gribbin Head with a striped daymark. The path was along a golf course then went into Par on a tedious narrow flooded track followed by a busy road.

I couldn't find a campsite that took tents; a woman who overheard me phoning a hotel about a room stopped to help and said there was a pub on the edge of town where I could camp if I ate there. Fine by me. I called them. The fish and chip shop owner told me where to get the bus. I pitched on a wet patch of grass in the flooded field and went to the pub.

I didn't know at the time that this was the end of the rain. 26 kms

21 September Blue sky when I got up. I had to take a taxi back to Par and I walked along the dune backed beach, spoilt by the sight of the china clay works I went past yesterday. Then through Polmear and up onto the cliffs before a decent to tiny Polkerris Bay. The path continued to go up on the cliffs then descend to the next cove and up again all the way to Gribbin Head where I walked past the red and white daymark

and continued in the same vein to Fowey. The last headland had St Catherine's castle ruins, best seen from Readymoney beyond there. I walked through woods to Fowey which seemed more upmarket than the usual villages and waited for the ferry to Polruan which was much cheaper than usual. Castle ruins on the point at Polruan too.

The rest of the walk was demanding, starting with a steep climb above lovely Lantic Bay, two tucked away sandy beaches.

I had views back to Dodman Head and, faintly, Lizard Point. The path was brutal: descending to cross streams that were gushing away and returning to the tops on long sets of steps. The sky darkened but no rain. The coast was rocky and the sea was calm. Finally I descended to Polperro, old houses stacked above a square harbour, and everything was closed. Some walkers had recommended a farm campsite and I had to walk steeply uphill two kilometres to reach it, after buying a takeaway box of salads at the only open cafe. It was a calm evening. 25 kms

22 September Freezing cold night and blue sky in the morning. I returned down the hill to Polperro which was even prettier in the sunshine,

and then took a detour inland through Talland. The village was up another steep hill with an attractive hidden church, and from there the road was narrow (a tractor zooming along only just fit). I descended to West Looe and sat at the harbour. The harbour divided West and East Looe and I crossed on an old stone arched bridge.

East Looe was a bustling town. I bought some fudge and climbed to get views of the beach and wooded Looe Island then went inland on a wooded path. I stayed inland on little roads to Seaton, a beach place, where I had a bacon and egg bap at the pub. Next I walked along the rather grey beach to Downderry and began a long hard climb onto the cliffs. I saw nobody between here and Portwrinkle which was unusual. The sea was calm and shining in huge Whitsand Bay and I could see to Rame Head guarding Plymouth. I passed several pretty sandy coves and then closer to Portwrinkle there were curly horned sheep on the path;

one sheep had ended up on the beach far below and looked lost. Portwrinkle suddenly appeared, low key and quiet.

I walked alongside a golf course and came to the Treguntle MOD firing range which could only be crossed after 4.30 so just right for me. I continued on the grass to Treguntle fort.

At that point I intended to catch the bus to the campsite I had arranged to stay at, but as I searched for the bus stop a woman in a car called out to me saying she was the person I had spoken to on the phone and she would take me to the campsite and also to the shops to buy food as their restaurant was closed today. This worked very well although the pitch was all mud. At dusk masses of swallows circled around. 25 kms

23 September Last day in Cornwall! I got the bus back to where I'd been picked up and walked along that same road high above the water. It was a second beautiful day, the water shining and a few sailboats out. I stopped at Freathy to make breakfast. Along here were many clusters of holiday homes. I descended through bracken and went out to Rame Head.

It was high tide and the sight of the dark rocks with a fringe of white surf was lovely. I paused at the point, there was a little hut on the top, then continued around the promontory to Penlee Point for views over Plymouth. From there I was in very nice green woods with hanging vines, ivy and blechnum. In Cawsand I was back on the water and I stopped for hot chips by the beach, one of the rare times I've lingered at a beach in sunshine. I was now inside Plymouth Sound looking across to Bovisand lighthouse.

I was able to walk on rocks through adjoining Kingsand and across grass to rejoin the SWCP. The next part was in and out of oak/pine woods with dappled sunlight and water in sight all along. I stopped at a stone shrine in European style above Fort Picklecombe to allow a group of soldiers to walk past. Then I stopped at Edgecumbe's Folly, remains of a two story tower with a staircase.

Went along the edge of the national camellia gardens and reached Edgecumbe House just before taking the ferry across the Tamar River estuary to Plymouth and into Devon. 

I went to my hotel via the Hoe seafront and high up promenade with striped lightouse, where Francis Drake played bowls and has a statue.

Then I walked around the Barbican and had a cream tea and checked out the Mayflower launch steps. Ate my fish and chips outside. 21 kms

24 September I had a pleasant day mainly away from the SWCP; I realised that in a couple of days' time I would not be able to ford the Erme River estuary (no ferry) as the water would be above my waist at low tide so a significant detour was required.

I took the ferry from the Barbican to Mount Batten and walked along the sound, climbing to Jennicliff and going to Bovisand with lots of 19th c fortifications on the way. I left the coast path and followed a gurgling stream in woods to Staddiscombe to join the Plym-Erme trail. The trail went through fields and woods, not entirely flat, passing a few farms and villages. I saw lots of pheasants in the fields. On the edge of Brixton I crossed the Yealm River on a causeway. I continued to Yealmpton and found a cafe. 

I had a couple more empty fields and narrow lanes in woodland with good views of rolling farmland and then a descent to the main road where I caught the bus back to Plymouth. 23 kms

25 September Rest day in Exeter with Denis. 

26 September I took the bus back to where I'd left off and crossed the Erme River on the road. I walked along a lane to Kingston, at times the trees formed a tunnel,

and sometimes by a clear stream. I joined a footpath which went through woods, across fields and across a lovely grassy hillside by a stream to Ringmore which had an interesting 13th c church.

Then downhill to Chaliaborough beach, a small sandy bay, back on the SWCP.

I walked above a sandy tidal causeway that led to an island, around to Bigbury on Sea and across grass above a big sandy beach and the winding Avon River which was almost non existent low tide but had a deep channel that called for a ferry. I waited for the ferry with another walker. 

On the far side I had to walk a golf course with views over Thurlstone Bay. The path was busy. There were a lot of exposed rock platforms and interesting low rock pinnacles, also Thurlestone Rock with a hole in the middle.

The cormorants have always picked one rock to colonise. Then Milton Sands. The sea was calm. I got to Hope Cove and was surprised to find a hive of activity, so I went in the pub for a coke and chips with a view back to the stretch of coast I missed with my detour - high whitish cliffs, dropping sheer to the water as if they've been sliced. 

The cliffs at Hope Cove were equally impressive when I saw them from further along the path.

I climbed onto the bracken/grass slopes of Bolt Tail with Iron Age earthworks on a headland. Then I was on high cliffs with farmland on one side and the endless sea on the other. I was looking for somewhere to camp and I found a good clearing in the bracken with a sea view, but as the sun went down I had to get straight into my bed. The night was starry and there were several lit boats at sea. 23 kms

27 September I walked along the cliffs and down to Soar Cove then stopped for breakfast on the way up. I went out on Bolt Head, saw some very cute reddish cows with long hair hanging over their face and curly horns, and ended up crossing fields by mistake.

I returned to the trail for a road walk past two little bays full of hotels and on into Salcombe where I had the best bacon and egg sandwich ever. I only had to go to the edge or the town, it was busy.

I got the ferry across the Salcombe estuary and walked back along the estuary on that side. Soon I began a lovely undulating and rocky path at mid height along the cliff edge with headland and cove views (there was a running event in progress) going below craggy rocks that reminded me of North Devon, until Prawle Point coastguard cabin.

When I reached there I realised I needed to buy food for the evening so I detoured to East Prawle up a huge hill. I had an ice cream there. The blackberries are pretty much finished, the sloes are still plentiful and there are often wild apple trees by the path with lots of fallen apples.

The next section of coast path was quite ho hum, low rocky spurs and some windswept weedy coves until I got near Start Point when it became fun. There was a flattish large rock out to sea and I could hear the sounds of seals and I gradually noticed the rock was covered with groups of seals as well as seals in the water. I went on towards Start Point with a view of the lighthouse and at the base of the cliffs were a line of low broken away rocks.

On the other side of the point I was at the edge of a large bay with many long beaches; they looked sandy but were actually all pebbles. There was a rare SWCP mileage marker maybe to remind us that Start Point was not the start. This bit of coast is meant to be very windy but it wasn't today.

I descended to a few houses and a beach of little smooth pebbles then had some climbing on bracken covered slopes by farmland. Nowhere to camp. I continued to Beesands, the first of the long beaches, and found a campsite on a road out of the village. The wind really picked up and the afternoon's forecast rain came overnight. 29 kms 

28 September I went through the village and along to Torcross (between a lagoon and the beach) where I made breakfast outside the pub then walked alongside Slapton Ley, a bigger lagoon with birdlife (saw egrets fly over). When the path left the lagoon I tried to walk on Slapton beach but the tiny pebbles made it too hard going. I had to climb hills to avoid the road and had good views from the top over Blackpool beach, very fine yellow tinged pebbles. Blackpool was a handful of thatched houses. I had a coffee in the sun at the beach. 

By mistake I walked on the road through Stoke Fleming and then followed a different trail which stayed up high and had good views of the coastline, sea again shining in the sunlight. I rejoined the coast path near Dartmouth castle on a lane with views across the Dart River estuary to many 19th c fortifications, and came to the castle and St Petroc church, some original walls. From the castle, mainly gun turrets remaining, I walked along the estuary into Dartmouth. After a break I took the ferry across to Kingswear; the ferry was a platform which was guided by a tug, sitting beside the platform on my trip and pulling it for the other direction.

The path continued as an extreme roller coaster, heading high into cliff top pine woods then descending almost to sea level repeatedly. At Froward Point coastguard cabin I descended past remains of WW2 defences. Soon after the rocks off shore had seals that I heard and saw. From a high point I could see what might be a good patch of grass to camp and when I got there, above Pudcombe Cove, I decided to stop in case there was nothing else later on. Unusually, there was a flowing stream very near. It was a calm starry night, not cold. 22 kms

29 September I was only able to get a view of the cove further along. I walked until I found a seat in the sun and had breakfast with a wonderful coast view of rocky spurs and my path through the bracken, sea lapping gently.

The path continued to be hard, dipping to Scabacombe beach (tiny grey pebbles) and back up then down to Mansands (big flat grey pebbles). After a final climb above a long shingle beach I came to a grassy headland, suddenly busy with dog walkers, and a view of flat topped Berry Head with rocks offshore.

I walked out onto the meadows on Berry Head, lots of remains of fortifications, with a view of built up Torbay. It seemed to take a long time to walk into Brixham and around the harbour full of trawlers. A whole lot of swans were resting on a slipway with their beaks tucked under their wings. I continued my research into bacon and egg baps.

Apart from the start when a pair of seals played in the water alongside the path, the next section was disappointing. I had lots of unnecessary ups and downs passing two shingle beaches, a lot of woodland then longer sandy beaches with bathing boxes at Broadsands and Goodrington. A highlight was seeing the Dartmouth to Paignton steam train twice. When I reached Paignton the reddish sandy beach was deserted and the pier closed up.

I had intended to stop there and get the bus or train to my hotel in Torquay so I walked to the station through the unpleasant town centre, but I realised that after messing around with the train it would be the same total distance if I walked on to Torquay today. I was tired and the walking was by the main road but Torquay was a much nicer place, attractive marina and seafront. They call this the English Riviera. I had a fabulous view over Torbay from my room. 28 kms

30 September The sun shone off the low red cliffs in the bay. I left my pack and continued around the bay, the walking much more enjoyable. I went onto the cliff tops and walked along passing several spurs, good view of Thatcher Rock, and went into woods. I crossed some grassy flat topped headlands and when I noticed the spire of the church in Babbacombe I decided to detour into the town for a break. This kept me above the woods so I could see the high red cliffs further on with a sheer drop into the water. There was a rack railway down to the beach. 

The next stage was brilliant: walking through deciduous undercliff woods with the water always in sight, filtered sunlight on a beautiful day. Lovely views back down the coast. A hole in a large rock. I passed a few beaches and detoured to hidden Maidencombe beach beneath a red cliff face.

After that the trail was more extreme with long steep climbs and descents going up to grassy meadows then back deep into the woods. I came down to Shaldon (another beach with a red cliff behind) and as I rounded the last point I had a view over Teignmouth, a large town with a long beach and pier. I got down to the estuary beach and the ferry happened to be waiting to take me across the Teign River. Teignmouth seemed a normal old fashioned holiday town. I had a pasty.

I walked the length of the beach between the water and the railway line then had to climb over a railway tunnel up to a busy road. I followed this road into Dawlish, another town on a long beach except that it was high tide so the sand wasn't visible. I walked along the top of the sea wall (built to protect the trains from the waves) as the sea bashed against it, until a red rock with a natural arch necessitated a turn inland. In a few minutes I was at the bus stop in Dawlish Warren, a landlocked place as odd as its name. I took the bus back to Torquay. 26 kms

1 October Slight fog over the bay. I had a long bus ride back to Dawlish Warren and walked a few kilometres along a bike path to Starcross for the ferry across the Exe River to Exmouth. (Passing Cockwood I saw a small harbour where boats had to come in under the railway line.) This was by far the longest and nicest ferry crossing, cruising down the river to the mouth where there were sand islands with dunes and birds.

Exmouth had a long sandy beach with esplanade alongside and then required a short climb onto a grassy cliff top at Orcombe Rocks where a geoneedle marked the start (and oldest part) of the Jurassic Coast. I went on to Sandy Bay, beach enclosed by cliffs, and had to bypass an active firing range. After each series of bangs I could hear the bullets landing in the sea. I remained on the red cliffs above Otter Cove (the sea discoloured by the red sand)

until a long descent to Budleigh Salterton, its pebble beach filled with dinghies. The sun had finally broken through the fog. 

I had to go inland through a marshy area with lots of birdlife (and lots of people with huge telephoto camera lenses) to cross a river and when the official trail returned to the coast I chose to remain inland because it was a pleasant change walking between the marsh (actually, mud flats) and the little river. I got to Otterton which was a pretty village of thatched houses with a stream running along the main street and went on to the coast at Ladram Bay. There were huge red rock stacks off the coast.

Back on the coast path I climbed and the views of beaches and red cliffs towards Sidmouth and beyond continued to be stunning.

I found a grassy spot on the cliff tops above an extensive inland valley that was out of sight from the farms across the fields and put up my tent. 22 kms

2 October I continued to the top of the cliffs for a view of the coastline in light fog and walked down to Sidmouth. Entering the town was dramatic with a high cliff behind the town, a castle like building above the sea wall and a long line of elegant hotels and houses. I ate breakfast on the promenade within sight of at least five high headlands I was about to go up and over. Another hard stage.

I crossed the mini Sid River and started the climb onto the first cliff and met three section walkers, two of whom went to my school a few years ahead of me. I walked with them to Westons Mouth chatting about our teachers. Westons Mouth had a long pebbly beach and afterwards a monster climb back up again. Then the path undulated gently through meadows with a lovely window view over the village of Branscombe inland and descended gradually to Branscombe Mouth beach with a large cafe. I had coffee.

I climbed steeply out of there and walked on the grassy top of Beer Head with cows grazing. Some of the cliffs were chalky white rather than red. As I descended to Beer I was looking at cliffs of both colours, Beer beach with a white cliff and red cliffs beyond. Appropriately I stayed at the pub. 17 kms

3 October It was a misty grey day. I climbed out of Beer, the beach looking sad and wet, and then had to walk on the road to Seaton as the tide was too high for the beach path. I ate a quick breakfast on the promenade above the shingle beach, crossed the Axe River and began a long stretch on the Undercliff path to Lyme Regis. A sign warned that there was no bailing out once you were on this section. It was unusual, maybe the closest thing to wilderness in England: an area prone to landslides where trees and creepers have colonised the land as it changed, including a chunk of cliff that formed a raised plateau. It was quite up and down, with rocks and roots underfoot, but a good place to be walking through a cloud as there would be minimal views in any weather. I had glimpses of the sea and glimpses of very high cliffs, and met my school friends at the only beach lookout. Had a quick chat with the maintenance crew who had done a great clearing job. By the time I got to the far end it was properly raining. As I came via the Cobb breakwater and harbour into Lyme Regis, entering Dorset, I couldn't even see the beach. I went in the first cafe I came to and booked a hotel room even though I intended to walk on.

I dumped my stuff and set off in light rain, strong wind. The SWCP went inland and I followed some back roads before crossing my second golf course for the day (both were so misty I couldn't see the route markers) and saw my second squirrel of the day. Then a long downhill in misty woods, it was quite eerie. I arrived at Charmouth to see a windswept beach and pounding surf. No point in lingering so I got the bus back to Lyme Regis, also windswept and rough stormy sea. The town had a selection of old buildings and waterfront fortifications. 21 kms

4 October Strong wind warning. I got the bus to Charmouth and had a long uphill before returning to the coast, the sky was black behind me and blue in front, and I had a fierce tailwind. I began the hard climb up to the top of Golden Cap (191 m), highest point on the south coast; it was raining slightly and near the top the raindrops felt like bullets hitting me, the wind was so strong that I was being pushed over. Only a misty view down the coast. Once I was over the summit the hillside sheltered me from the wind as I descended to Seatown, mainly a large holiday park packed with cabins (of which there are many on this part of the coast).

Similar climbs followed then suddenly the cliffs ahead were yellow and lower, flat topped.

I arrived in West Bay at the same time as the rain, walked around the harbour and went in a cafe. Unlike in the old days the rain stopped.

After negotiating an inlet and a huge caravan park I went inland to Burton Bradstock (detour due to a landslide last year, and I had already passed a major slip from 2020) and returned to the coast at Hive beach; the waves were pounding against the cliffs. I was soon on Chesil Beach, 17 miles of straight beach with tiny yellowish pebbles. It was not nice to walk on the pebbles, they got in my shoes and it was as hard as walking on soft sand, so I walked through fields where possible. The wind was always behind me and was so strong that it felt more comfortable to run than to walk, if only I could keep it up. I could see the Isle of Portland at the end of the beach.

I continued to West Bexington passing marshland with a bit more reluctant pebble walking and headed inland up onto the South Dorset Ridgeway, the route the SWCP originally took, to get to the bus at Abbotsbury. From the ridge I had a great view over Chesil Beach and I checked out an extensive hill fort. For the last part I walked through fields and on the road to the village with an early view of Fleet lagoon. Abbotsbury was an old village with all the houses built of the same yellow sandstone. I went in the 14th c church with fortified tower,

saw the remaining wall of the abbey through the remaining arch, saw the enormous tithe barn and got the bus back to Lyme Regis. 27 kms

5 October A long bus ride back to Abbotsbury

and I climbed a hill to the 14th c St Catherine's chapel which was intact and open.

The wind had lessened. The coast path remained inland going through fields with views of Fleet lagoon until I descended to the lagoon and saw lots of swans. Then I stayed beside the lagoon until I got to Moonfleet Manor Hotel and went in for a £5 coffee.

The path meticulously followed the edge of the lagoon, which was in two sections, every twist and turn, without much birdlife on offer. The water was rough and grey. Chesil beach was like an embankment in the background. At least the going was all flat and the sun was out. I went through a military firing area and had to bypass another, passed more huge holiday parks. Then I could see Portland island much more clearly: like a wedge with the wider part at the Weymouth end, with chalky cliffs. And then the bridge to the island where the lagoon flows into Weymouth Bay. When I reached the bridge I caught a bus to my hotel in Weymouth. 19 kms

6 October Today I had to walk around the Isle of Portland; it is connected to the mainland by a bridge and Chesil beach so its coast is regarded as part of the south west coast. I got the bus to the bridge, walked across it and along the backside of Chesil beach onto the island. I had a big climb to the high part of the wedge which was grassy and littered with limestone boulders, looking down on Chesil beach which disappeared into the horizon. The path continued along the west coast over low cliffs, pebbly coves below. The inland area was a mix of swathes of identical houses and grazing land. Eventually I came to the bottom of the island, Portland Bill, where there was a red and white lighthouse and an obelisk daymark at the tip.

I had a coffee and started my return up the east coast which was nicer because it was sheltered from the wind, first by stony bays and then passing several quarried areas. I had a look at Church Ope cove and the ruins of Rufus Castle on a rock above the cove and went inland to bypass an active quarry. As I came towards the Weymouth end of the island I again had great views over Chesil beach, Weymouth and Portland marina. I passed a large Victorian gun battery, a military zone and Portland Castle (Henry 8th). I quickly zipped across to the causeway for a return to Weymouth. 

I walked through Wyke Regis on a bike trail (with views of the white cliffs towards Lulworth) and on to Weymouth via the town harbour, turning off for my hotel at the start of the esplanade. 26 kms

7 October I walked out of very spread out Weymouth along the esplanade, the central beach was white sand but later it was back to small pebbles. Views back of another of Henry 8th's sea facing castles. After that came a smaller beach, Bowleaze, and a return to roller coaster conditions. The cliffs were gradually becoming higher, grass on top. I saw a horse and rider in chalk on an inland hillside.

When I reached Osmington Mills the path detoured through the pub grounds so I stopped for coffee.

I went along some fields and could see an alarmingly high cliff ahead. Soon the scenery became stunning,

some of the best on the trail except for the beaches being shingle not sand: sheer chalky cliffs, scalloped beaches, turquoise water.

It helped that the grey day had turned sunny. One of the cliff spurs had a tiny hole, Bats Hole, and there was a sea stack.

The path was extremely steep. I could see Durdle Door in the distance at the end of a long beach but it was only when I was close that the huge size of the limestone arch became apparent and the strange angle as it hangs off the beach. Just alongside was another lovely bay, Man o' War, with a double beach and long sea stack. I climbed up again and then had a cobbled descent into Lulworth Cove village (extremely busy) and my hotel. 

I did a short walk out to Lulworth Cove, pebbly beach beneath a lovely arc of white rock;

that is as far as I can go because the MOD Lulworth firing range is in use this week and the onward trail is closed. I had a cream tea. 20 kms

8 October I got a bus to Wareham and another to Corfe Castle to get around the very large military zone and resumed walking below the castle ruins. First I visited Norman fortifications in a field, had good views of the remaining bits of the castle on the hill

then walked across fields and on lanes to Kimmeridge. From the highest point I could just see Poole harbour.

Past Kimmeridge I rejoined the SWCP on the other side of the firing range (I heard some firing). A kestrel was enjoying a thermal by the cliff. The path was along the cliff edge and had some monster climbs with good views back to the white Lulworth ranges, Portland looking like a wedge again and a bump on the horizon for Weymouth. I walked with someone chatting for a few kilometres to Houns Tout cliff top. When I left there I saw my watch had just clocked 1000 kilometres.

I crossed wide grassy valleys and went above Chapmans Pool, a cove with calm turquoise water. Next on to St Aldhelms Head, a striking headland with sheer sides; on the way a walker warned me of steps and I was surprised (but not surprised) there was a major descent and climb that I couldn't see. There was a Norman chapel on the headland, coastguard cabin and ruins of buildings from a WW2 radar station. I contoured past fields with cows and sheep on the cliffs. It was a grey day constantly threatening rain and I was tired so I stopped early to camp above an old quarry (with an old ship's cannon on a plinth) on Hedbury cliff. Very windy night. 22 kms

9 October Promise of a sunny day so I decided to get to the finish today. I rushed off early and was immediately at Dancing Ledge, a dark rock platform that looks like a dance floor below the pale cliffs. Then on to the lighthouse at Durlston Head. Looking back the sun was shining on the white cliffs and the almost full moon was still up. I stopped to have breakfast on a rock ledge below the lighthouse out of the wind; there were huge caves in the rocks beside the ledge. Saw a falcon on a cliff. At Durlston Castle there was a big limestone globe and a view towards Bournemouth. I descended via Peveril Point to the harbour and beach at Swanage, ornate clock tower, the town backing a curved sandy beach.

I left Swanage on the esplanade but had to make a detour on streets where it ended, then had my last steep climb on Ballard Downs. At the top I walked a couple of kilometres on a grassy headland out to the tip, where I could see Old Harry Rocks: tall chalk sea stacks, one with an archway, off the sheer chalk cliffs.

Amazing sight and busy. I could also see the sandy spit where the SWCP ends (at the end of a long beach), Bournemouth, white cliffs on the Isle of Wight and brown cliffs on the mainland coast heading east. I made coffee at the lookout area; a shame I was only able to lounge in the sun on my last day.

I descended to the beach at Studland and then went through the village and returned to the beach for the final stretch to South Haven Point. The beach was sandy with gentle waves, and busy with walkers. This is probably the most flat beach walking on the whole route. The beach was backed by low dunes and heather behind the dunes. Looking back to Old Harry Rocks almost every rock and cliff had a hole or arch.

I got to South Haven Point where there was a blue metal sculpture to indicate the end point of the SWCP, rather low key compared to the start and half way markers.

I went on the ferry, a full size car ferry, across to Sandbanks, and I was done. 21 kms

Total 1030 kms, 46 days including 2 rest days, elevation gain 32253 m