Gower Peninsula, South Wales

With some spare days before my next long hike I decided to go further into Wales and check out the Gower peninsula on the south coast, using Swansea as a base.

19 August I set out along the beach around the bay in Swansea and walked seven kilometres mostly on the hard sand to Mumbles and had breakfast. The tide had gone out a long way so the beach wasn't especially attractive. I continued past the pier and up onto the headland then followed the coastline. Langland Bay had the first major sandy beach

(dozens of identical beach boxes) and from there I went up onto the cliffs for much improved views. The coast was rocky and along here I saw several seals swimming just offshore. The tops were mainly gorse. I came down to busy Caswell Beach and had an ice cream. Back up onto the cliffs for views of headlands west along the coast and down to a long beach where the sand was almost completely covered by pebbles. Then up onto Pennard cliffs

and around the headland with a view of a nice sandy beach in the distance. The last part was across the grassy cliff top to Southgate. Coffee and the bus back to Swansea. 20 kms

20 August This was a much better day of coast walking. From Southgate I went back onto the cliffs and immediately had a fabulous view over Three Cliffs Bay, a deep expanse of sand interrupted by rocks, steep cliffs behind and some high dunes.

I had to walk over the dunes which were very scarred with paths and down to the beach to cross a stream on stepping stones. At the head of the valley were some castle ruins. Up on the other side I was looking down onto another huge beach and this one had a conical rock in the middle of the sand. I crossed a marshy area full of reeds and returned to the sand to walk along busier Oxwich Beach. Across the water, the Bristol Channel, was the area where I'll be next week.

Next, after looking at a little church, originally 6th c, with 13th c carvings, I climbed steeply into forest and descended steeply towards Oxwich Point, coming out onto a grassy ridge above the water and exposed rocks. I was walking beneath a line of cliffs and this part felt more remote although there were still a few other walkers.

I saw a couple of seals swimming. The path descended on the grass past sandy Slade Bay towards Port Eynon and I walked to the village along the beach. Had some chips and got the bus to Swansea. 17 kms

21 August The bus driver in Swansea told me to switch buses part way to Port Eynon and not only was I alone on the second bus but I got there quickly. The tide was far out so there was a lot of unattractive seaweed until I rounded the headland and headed northwest for Rhossili. From then on the coastline was very impressive: steep bluffs with grass on top, sharp indentations between the bluffs, narrow gullies and massive rock faces. The trail was mostly on the top but a few times I went into the gullies.

Nearer to Rhossili at Mewslade Bay there were some lovely beaches between bluffs.

Then I could see Worm Head (a grassy island which is cut off at high tide) and the wide causeway leading there was fully exposed.

I continued to Rhossili - the coast here was a series of closely connected grassy headlands - getting views of the three mile long sandy beach, backed by a hill covered in gorse and heather, which has been called Britain's best beach.

It looked very lovely in the sunshine: wide, flat and smooth, and I thought it improved as the tide came in. 

After a break I climbed up the hill behind the beach through the heather to a trig point at 200 metres and sat there to admire the beach in both directions. 

Being at the highest point on the peninsula I could also see the whole Gower, with farmland in the interior, the prominent headlands near my start, numerous white villages. Then I joined the crowd taking the bus back to Swansea. 15 kms

Total 52 kms

Offa's Dyke Path

My next task was to walk a route designed by King Offa of Mercia when he built a dyke along his border in the eighth century to get the Welsh to leave him alone. Quite a lot of the dyke is identifiable and Offas Dyke Path follows it where possible, but alters the original dyke route to link the north coast of Wales with the remaining end on the Severn Estuary (just inside England). This makes an appealing coast to coast walk, which is further embellished with iconic hill climbs and crosses the Wales/England border numerous times. Plodding through paddocks following a low embankment - more correctly called ancient earthworks - turns out to be very enjoyable.

4 August I got off the train in Prestatyn, a tacky seaside resort on the north coast of Wales, and walked to the beach, no mean feat as a fierce wind was blowing directly towards me, and had a quick look at the wide but deserted stretch of sand and rough sea.

There was a distinctive metal sculpture on the beachside path to indicate the start line. Then I turned round and began Offas Dyke Path with a walk into the town and uphill to my hotel. 2 kms

5 August The wind was still extremely strong in the morning. I climbed steeply out of Prestatyn onto a ridge giving views over a large swathe of the coast - big towns and rough grey sea. The blackberries were ripe and I can see this is going to be a huge problem in slowing me down. I walked across sheep paddocks, bits of woodland and lanes. There were several footpaths signed and I wasn't surprised I soon went wrong and ended up in a village called Cwm: pretty church and a pub (don't know if it was open). Lots of stiles, many of which were dicey to use. I met a couple finishing ODP and walked over some grassy hills with hill forts.

The views over the surrounding area, the Vale of Clwd, were good and very extensive: patchwork of fields and small settlements, hills on the horizon. I ate masses of blackberries. There was holly in all the hedgerows. Unfortunately it was too windy to stop for a break. I descended to Bodfari and my campsite, hoping my tent would stay up in the wind which was still gusting badly. Then I went to the pub (the village just had a car workshop, a pottery shop and possibly the biggest pub I've ever seen) and sat by the log fire with a shandy. By the time I got back to my tent the wind was gone. 20 kms

6 August Sunshine, blue sky, still. I began a long hard day on the Clwdian Hills starting with narrow lanes taking me up onto the ridge. First summit was Penycladdiau with its hill fort, climbing on grass then through bracken then heather/gorse moorland. Near the top about fifty black cows were grazing by the path. I could see the long range of heather covered hills ahead with the watchtower on Moel Famau standing out.

I skirted around the next summit, Moel Arthur with a prominent hill fort, and began the hard climb up Moel Famau (551 m); it was steep and challenging but the views from the unfinished watchtower were fantastic: I could see the silhouettes of Mt Snowdon and Cader Idris along with the endless Clwd and Dee valleys and the sea. The climb was busy. The sky had clouded over.

The descent was more gradual and I skirted Moel Fenlli, dense bracken on the hillside, and came down to forest where I met two ODP walkers.

Next I skirted around two deep gullies filled with bracken, following the ridge on the other side to look east for a change and came down off the ridge, only to head straight back up for Moel y Plas. I skirted some grassy hills, met an ODP guy and made a final descent on the western flank. I crossed lots of sheep paddocks, negotiated too many stiles and reached Llandegla.

The village shop was already closed but just close to my campsite I came to a pub - totally unexpected - with a sign saying it was closed on Tuesday; I thought it was Tuesday so I was pleasantly surprised that it was open (because it was Wednesday). 30 kms

7 August Very windy. A short day with several interesting features. I went across paddocks and up into Llandegla forest, partly clear felled. Lots of bracken. I emerged onto a wonderful area of moorland, a few sheep and miles of heather and fruitless blueberry bushes.

It was raining, clearing, raining again. Met three ODP walkers. The hills on the horizon were partly in cloud. Next I followed a road downhill to a place in a deep wooded gulley called Worlds End, and from there I had a lovely undulating path carved into the side of the Eglwyseg Hills, a limestone escarpment with a layer of exposed rock along the top and multiple scree slopes. Plenty of head high bracken to walk through.

After a few kilometres the path became a sealed road and then I could see Castell Dinas Brân on top of a big hill. I had arranged to stay off the route in Llangollen so I decided to leave ODP and go over the hill to the town. There wasn't much left of the 1260 castle, just a few bits of wall and three arches.

I could see the high Pontcysyllte aqueduct on tomorrow's walk and all of Llangollen plus hills disappearing into rain. I descended to the tea shop beside the Llangollen canal. Llangollen was a cute, very tourist oriented town on the rocky and rapid filled Dee River. In the evening I drank my cider on a terrace overlooking the river. 16 kms

8 August I walked in shorts for the first time. I stayed off ODP for a bit longer, walking along the Llangollen Canal towpath which was really nice in the sunshine. A few barges and canoes. I reached the Pontcysyllte canal aqueduct over the Dee which is 38 metres high (highest canal aqueduct in the world) with a very narrow towpath. After that I had a bit more canal then rejoined ODP and went along a narrow lane until I turned off across grassy fields for 14th c Chirk castle. I could see it on the hilltop ahead. 

I had a look at the outside walls and the view to the northeast then descended, soon having my first encounter with Offas Dyke: a low embankment and a ditch on the far side. I passed the site of a Welsh battle around 1100 that involved the dyke and climbed in farmland to another ridge. Straight back down to cross a stream in a patch of forest and I stopped for lunch/coffee. I came out of the forest and immediately met two ODP walkers and had a long chat. I walked along the dyke for a bit; it isn't that obvious, being quite low. 

I was now in England, going through grassy paddocks until I came to the top of Sellaty Hill with lovely views of green hills and farms. There were lots of reeds among the grass and it looked like the ground might sometimes be boggy.

The next landmark was the Oswestry racecourse, a large area of mown bracken, and I searched for ages for the grandstand ruins without finding them. Turns out this was the new racecourse and shortly after I came to the old racecourse site and stone grandstand ruins. The racecourses were on top of a hill and would have had good views but trees obscured everything; lower down I had the views, over farmland stretching to the horizon. I went into some serene pine then mixed forest and descended a lot, coming out at a house with a shelter for walkers providing cake! That powered me up and over the last hill before paddocks leading into Trefonen. The shop was disappointing and the pub didn't do meals. I had arranged to camp in someone's garden. 28 kms

9 August Nice morning but windy. I crossed paddocks, so many stiles around here and many quite rickety, and climbed onto grassy Moelydd with 360 degree views including Alderley Edge and Cader Idris. Then more paddocks and small villages until a bigger climb up Llanymynech Hill. There was a golf course on the top but further along I walked beneath a limestone escarpment; as I looked up at the sheer rock cliffs I was as much impressed by the prolific blackberries on the hillside. I descended to a good lookout over Llanymynech (dominated by a lime kiln chimney) and went down to the town, in Wales. I had coffee at a greasy spoon.

I walked a long way beside the Montgomery Canal, looked unnavigable as it was covered with water lilies and other water plants but there were locks and nice bridges. Then I moved away from it for the village of Four Crosses and its milk bottling plant and after that I had a few problems finding the trail through the paddocks; the sheep were no help at all. After a tree lined stretch on the dyke I had a very long section following fairly close by the fledgling Severn River on a different embankment; it was windy and exposed and I was lucky the wind was from behind. Too many gates. I had a challenge getting past over 30 cows that were blocking one of my gates on both sides. There were beautiful old spreading oaks in the paddocks. I was under the Breidden Hils, one hill had its front side completely sliced off at a quarry. 

Then I returned to the Montgomery Canal, which was still full of plants, and more paddocks to the edge of Buttington. Buttington had a whitewashed church and a pub with a popular campsite. 28 kms

10 August I had a climb through sheep paddocks towards Beacon Ring, with views towards Welshpool and a high church steeple in a little village. At the top there was an Iron Age hill fort which had more recently been fully planted with beech trees, and views of hills to the west. I descended through woods and a village as the day warmed up.

As I left the village I was clearly walking on Offas Dyke, on grass with oak trees, and I'm just very surprised how insignificant it is, a low embankment and a shallow ditch.

I stayed on it a while and then walked beside it as the top was dense brambles. I descended to cross the Camlad River and entered England to walk through crop fields.

Finally I reached the junction with the Montgomery road, returned to Wales and walked into the town, castle ruins on a hill top looming over the town. I went up to the castle - the remaining foundations covered a large area and offered amazing views over the Camlad and Severn valleys with hills on the horizon in every direction. It was a nice evening and I drank a cider sitting outside in the market square. 18 kms 

11 August I had more than an hour's walk out of Montgomery on a busy road. Half way along I realised I had my hotel key in my pocket; I phoned the hotel and the reception girl drove out to collect it from me. I went in and out of England then in and out of Wales. I finished the road walk and went into forest then started on a day of many steep climbs and descents on the Shropshire hills.

Very soon I was walking on the dyke (which was clearly defined along here) and then beside it.

The day had started sunny and the hill views were wonderful; later it became sultry and there was a heat haze. I could always see a long way in all directions, mainly a patchwork of fields, grazing cattle, sheep, patches of woods, the odd farm. Most of the route was grassy but I also had bracken to contend with. Many many gates, a few stiles. I met several walkers. I looked down on the village of Newcastle hidden among the hills.

 

Eventually the gradient lessened and I followed a gravel trail along the hilltops often switching from one side of the dyke (a long continuous section) to the other. When I stopped for lunch on Llanfair Hill several sheep watched me closely and bleated.

For a long time I could see the trig point on top of Sanaham Hill ahead and my final steep climb went up there then along a ridge.

Descending Panpwnton Hill I was looking into the River Teme valley and Knighton came into view, a largish town. My campsite was before the town and still in England. 29 kms

12 August I went into Knighton, in Wales, with a pretty centre, then had a serious climb back up onto the hills.

It was going to be a hot day. I was mostly walking through sheep paddocks and the dyke was evident in many places, the sheep seem to like it if there is shade under the trees or as something to climb on. I could see the Brecon Beacons in silhouette ahead and I had a view down into the River Lugg valley. I descended to cross the river at a lovely spot where I had a rest.

Another climb on the hillsides and a stretch of dyke covered with prickly trees and all bracken in the ditch. Coming down I went into nice shady woods.

I rested in the shade outside a farmhouse before my last hot climb (back into England) on an open hillside then a sidle around Herrock Hill and Bradnor Hill with lovely views.

Part of this was dense bracken, very unpleasant until I reached a part that had been cut back and then the descent was all on grass. Kington was out of sight until I was really close; I was looking forward to a nice cool cafe but they were all closed so I had to make do with a can of Fanta. It was 29 degrees. The town was a kilometre long with pubs at each end. I had a drink at the end I was staying but that pub didn't do food so I went almost to the other end for a Chinese takeaway. 23 kms

13 August A steady climb up to Hergest Hill with a surprising cluster of monkey puzzle trees on the summit and the start of a long stretch of ridge walking back in Wales. I descended a bit to walk through paddocks and up Disgwylfa Hill for another ridge. There was a nice breeze on the ridges. I came down to the tiny village of Newchurch where the church had coffee and biscuits for walkers and there was a crowd of walkers when I arrived.

After a long break I walked along a former drovers road, crossed paddocks (at one point having to get off the trail so as not to disturb the many sheep resting in the shade). I started my long descent to the Wye River valley in a green gully where the blackberries, so far absent today, were back up to scratch haha. There were some tedious crop fields to cross in the hot sun before I reached the river, wide and pretty with pebbly beaches. Then I went over the bridge into Hay on Wye, packed with people and bookshops, castle. I had coffee and cake, bought food and left. 

After a few crop fields I went into Brecon Beacons National Park to began climbing on grassy slopes with gorse and sheep. I was intending to do a few more kilometres then try to camp, to walk as the day got cooler and make tomorrow easier, but after a while I could see the hillsides were too exposed (it had become windy) so I climbed a fence to get into a tiny copse of pines and camped there. I was looking directly at Hay Bluff, formidably high, to be climbed tomorrow. 29 kms

14 August I continued up the trail onto Hay Bluff and skirted the summit to reach a ridge leading into the Black Mountains. All heathery moorland and I was heading into cloud. Some drizzle which soon cleared to give views west of several ranges. I went over the top of Black Mountain, at 702 m the highest I've been on this trail, and then over a second slightly lower peak.

It was dry on this side and very sunny down eastward in the Olchon valley where I could see farmland forever; clouds coming and going over the western ranges. 

The rain returned and I rested a bit at a windbreak/seat made of big stones near some grazing horses. So much for the hot day I'd been expecting. It rained properly after that for a long time, cleared and came back. I walked over Hatterall Hill mainly in rain but at one point the sun came out and I had a view of the Severn Estuary, the final stop on ODP. I was on the moorland for hours then descended on grass and steep lanes to a viewpoint above Pandy. I stopped for coffee in the sunshine. Pandy comprised a pub (where I camped) and a few houses. 22 kms

15 August Perfect blue sky when I got up which lasted until lunchtime. There weren't many views today just a lot of undulating hillsides and lanes. Near the start I came to Llangattock Lingoed with a medieval whitewashed church, 15th c fresco of St George and his dragon, and coffee for walkers.

Next sight was White Castle, fairly intact outer and inner walls with towers.

I chatted to several walkers. There were more houses and farms along the route than on other days.

Later on another medieval church at Llanvihangel Ystern Llewern which also had coffee available. These names are something else. I went uphill into woods, no view at the top but the best blackberries, and descended to Monmouth with its extraordinary fortified gatehouse on the bridge over the Monnow River.

Also a fragment of castle, several old churches and colourful buildings along the main street. 27 kms

16 August I left Monmouth taking the Wye Valley Walk. The Wye River was wide with pebbly beaches passing through grazing land, nobody around. I had the curious sight of two lengths of an aqueduct on either side of the river, the span across the river was missing.

Overcast but soon became very hot again. In Redbrook, now in England, I rejoined ODP for a climb into the Forest of Dean and a nice cool section of woodland. Offa's Dyke suddenly reappeared among the trees. I descended to the river and grassy pasture then climbed steeply in more forest. After another descent I arrived at the Brockweir community cafe/shop where I took an overdue break. Then a last climb, a bit more dyke, and I arrived at my hilltop campsite with a lovely view towards the ridge I had just come over and other forest covered hills. 18 kms

17 August Another sunny day. I had a walk in woodland beside the dyke, after a couple of kilometres reaching a rock outcrop called the Devil's Pulpit with a bird's eye view over roofless Tintern Abbey on the bank of the Wye. The front half was covered in scaffolding and the back half needed cleaning. Not much further on I had a first view of the Severn Bridge in the other direction. I descended with more views of the Severn and bridge, went through villages and crossed paddocks until I could see Chepstow on the hillside ahead. I crossed the muddy Wye River into Wales, Chepstow castle remains prominent on the Welsh river bank. The town had a nice historic feel; even a part of the town wall remained.

I dropped off my pack for the last few kilometres and recrossed the Wye into England. I went through Sedbury and onto a final stretch of the dyke, grass covered. The dyke went straight up to the top of the Sedbury cliffs above the Severn estuary and the trail ended abruptly at a rock with a start/finish plaque, looking out towards the Severn Bridge. I walked down to the reedy bank of the Severn and along to what looked like a beach on the map; this was just a patch of parched mud flats and crushed rocks beneath the cliffs. The water was brown with baby waves. 

I walked back to Chepstow and ended my walk at St Mary's Priory. 18 kms

Total 312 kms; elevation gain 9309 metres

Southern Upland Way - Scotland

A coast to coast walk just inside the Scottish border had an appeal for me, crossing Scotland at its widest part from the Irish Sea to the North Sea. I was going to walk on grassy fells and moorland, often vaguely flattened grass rather than a physical path, a type of walking that was new to me and it took me a while to get used to it. I didn't like having permanently wet feet from the boggy ground and muggy overcast weather every day; on the plus side I never had the heavy rain I had anticipated. The scenery was never breathtaking but was generally good.

17 July I left my cliff top Portpatrick Hotel, having walked the first 400 metres of the Southern Upland Way yesterday; the trail began by an anchor and the Scottish flag on rocks at the entrance to Portpatrick's tiny harbour off the Irish Sea. A pretty town on the west coast of the Rhins peninsula with harbourside pubs, small lighthouse, a little patch of sandy beach and an outline of hills in Ireland.

It was good to get started but I was still feeling my jet lag and my pack hurt my shoulders. The first hour was along the coast passing a lighthouse and descending to a couple of scrappy beaches, some views down the coast of low grassy headlands. I saw a deer, some sheep. Turning inland I had a lot of road walking with scattered white cottages and farmhouses interrupted by a nice stretch on moorland with little tarns. I followed a ridge that skirted Stranraer. Some muddy forest. Coming into Castle Kennedy the forest walking was good and I found a shop at the service station to buy lunch. Then I crossed the road to the Castle Kennedy gardens and walked down to a loch and along to the castle ruins and tea rooms. Good timing because it had started raining.

When the sun came out I left the tea rooms and walked through forest out of the gardens then onto a road. I turned off to climb past a farm with derelict barns onto grassy Chlenry Hill with patches of gorse. I was looking for somewhere to camp and I found a clearing right by a trail sign that was propped up by a pile of rocks - the rocks gave me something to sit on. A whole lot of cows (including a local 'beltie') suddenly appeared and came a bit too close before running off. It rained in the night. 26 kms

18 July The cows were back before I got up and I was relieved when they ran away. The midges were swarming. I got to the top of the hill and walked along a wall beside moorland, very wet grasses and ferns. Then some elm woodland and a path through firs. I crossed the Water of Luce on a suspension bridge, crossed fields and had a road walk into New Luce. It was a small village with a pub and a shop where I wanted to buy dinner; they only had some biscuits and a few cans. I had a coffee at the pub while the sky cleared and clouded over again. 

There was a long road climb from the village but pleasant enough because it was moorland with some sheep, and I continued on a farm trail across the moorland then onto the boggy grass. At the highest part there was a large wind farm and distant views of more serious hills. Also a pretty burn and a neolithic burial mound. I went in woodland and came to a clearing with the Beehive bothy shelter, the ambience affected by swishing turbines in every direction and a view over a wind farm under construction. It was a nice evening so I put up my tent. 20 kms

19 July At the next clearing were two neolithic standing stones with Christian crosses etched about 800 AD. The trail began climbing and I came out of the forest onto an open hillside for the day's first highlight: the summit of Craig Airie Fell had great views of moorland and the Galloway hills in every directions (all blighted by wind turbines) and best of all masses of ripe blueberries.

After the descent a long road walk with zero cars, crossed a river and I took a coffee break on a farm track. I noticed some ripe raspberries among the ubiquitous blackberry bushes and they were great. I went past the three houses comprising Knowe where a woman commented to me on the good weather (this has happened a few times and I've agreed although I wouldn't call this muggy overcast weather good). The trail was grassy then more road and it started raining; I was soon baking hot in my rain gear.

Then the best part of the day as I passed Ochiltree Loch and climbed Ochiltree Hill, lots of sheep, for more views of the Galloway Hills and moorland and no wind farms. The ridge top was boggy and uneven underfoot followed by a rough descent through rushes, bracken and high grass with frequently having to leap waterlogged bog. I got down to Bargrennan and headed towards the campground at Glentrool, hoping the pub on the way would be open; sadly it wasn't but the campground had a small shop so I could buy noodles for dinner. 22 kms 

20 July The walking was much more impressive today in the Galloway Hills. I followed the Cree River in mossy forest, then the Water of Minnoch with glimpses of the nearby hills and then the wider Water of Trool where the path was on grass. The sun was trying to come out. Loch Trool came into view surrounded by hills. I met several people walking around the loch.

The landscape was transformed into rugged grass covered hills with bare rock faces and no trees. Lots of heather and bluebells. The trail undulated along the loch, high up, and came to a burn at the far end. Then I had a steady climb out of the valley, hills all around and dry stone walls running down the valley. A couple of waterfalls cascaded down the hillside. A bit of sunshine. At the top of the climb I could see Loch Dee with sandy shores and I descended towards it, then turned off onto boggy grass for White Laggan bothy for the night. 

There was camping gear and a lot of food in the bothy, seemed very odd as there was nobody around, and I opted to sleep in my tent in case a group turned up. After I went to bed it poured heavily so I returned to the hut to sleep. As I opened the door a frog tried to go inside. 21 kms

21 July Bright sunshine when I woke up. I continued along past the loch on the undulating trail through the hills. After a while I realised I had missed a turning and gone two kms off route, very annoying as I had checked the map at the junction in question. I retraced, crossed a lively burn and followed an identical trail, domed hills all around. I briefly saw Clatteringshaws Loch, large, and moved away from it to reach a grassy path over hills.

I took a coffee break at a stile. The trail was lovely for a while, climbing Shield Rig on grass with expansive views: treeless grassland fringed by hills.

The weather was packing in and looked black ahead. I passed plenty of sheep with black faces and curly horns. Then a long gradual descent on a gravel and later sealed road and riverside walking. It had clearly been raining there. Stopping to pick raspberries slowed me down. Then a sudden off road walk across waterlogged ground and a steep climb up Waterside Hill; this wasn't so much fun because the trail went through head high bracken ferns but there was a view of St Johns Town of Dalry from the top.

I came down to the Water of Ken and finally Dalry in light rain. One of the two pubs was open. 26 kms

22 July Almost all day on boggy hillsides, certainly remote and at times hard going (especially when I lost the feint trail and had to walk on the very uneven ground through high grass). It was again overcast but cooler, good walking conditions. From Dalry I headed into the hills and had trouble following the trail since it only existed where other walkers had trampled down the grass; sometimes I followed animal tracks by mistake and several times I found marker posts that would have been helpful had they not fallen over.

I undulated along, passing occasional farmhouses, sheep, pine plantations, and crossed a dark river to climb Culmark Hill for great 360 degree views.

I came down to a road and as I began the next long climb I met a guy doing a section of the SUW with his dog. It was a long climb on open hillsides and through plantations with several lower hill tops until I reached the top of Benbrack (581 m) with rounded hills in all directions, some on the horizon quite high. A sculptor had created an archway from bricks at the summit and I could see his other arch on a nearby summit. More wind farms. I was constantly getting wet feet on the boggy terrain and there was nowhere suitable for taking a break (nothing to sit on during the way up and too windy at the top) but I was finally getting to like these hills.

Then just a little more climbing on the open slopes (there are almost no trees apart from the plantations), a walk between a plantation and a fully logged field, and a long descent on a gravel road to Polskeoch bothy in the forest. The guy with his dog dropped in for a chat. 28 kms

23 July Mostly patchy sun. I walked out of the forest and up to a grass ridge with sheep to contour along the Scaur valley, tiers of rounded hills and a winding river far below.

Still boggy. I climbed a little out of the valley to walk along the hills, and over the ridge to start looking into the Nith valley with fields and two settlements, the larger being Sanquhar. It was a long descent

with several streams/rivers to cross and passing a couple of farms and I came into Sanquhar. I went to the bakery and had a pie, finger bun, slice and coffee although it was only just midday. 

The afternoon on the moorland hills was great although the sun had gone and it was again muggy.

I climbed towards the Lowther Hills on a better defined trail that was less boggy with nice views of domed hills and then descended alongside a green gully with sheep and heather. Another climb and similar descent, and I could see Wanlockhead at the end of a valley, with the 'golf ball' radar station on Lowther Hill looming over it.

Wanlockhead, Scotland's highest village, was in several sections, groups of terraced cottages and lots of lead mining relics. I was very pleased to arrive at the pub and my tiny cabin, and met a Belgian couple also doing the SUW whose names I had been seeing in the bothy logbooks. 28 kms

24 July It was misty when I got up but the sun came out as I started for the summit of Lowther Hill (725 m, the highest point on the SUW). As I got higher I had great views of the heather clad hills to the north west until the clouds covered them.

I reached the top and went inside the golf ball enclosure for a misty view of hills to the south east also soon engulfed by cloud. So I began the steep roller coaster over Comb Head and Light Hill with increasing views as the cloud lifted, all brownish rounded hills rising from parallel valleys to either side of my ridge. The descent between these hills was real ankle stressing stuff.

I had a road for a while then turned for a plantation and stopped just before it for coffee by Potrail Water. The trail went through lightly wooded terrain, deciduous and firs, and was on a gravel road passing a ruined fortified house and an ancient buried bathing site, to reach Daer reservoir which was big. I could still see the Lowther Hill golf ball way back behind me and it made me feel I'd come a really long way since that climb.

I walked one kilometre across the dam wall and went onto the hills again. The next climb, which I hadn't been expecting, took forever to the top of Hods Hill with great views towards the Moffat hills and over the reservoir.

And a vast wind farm close by. The ground was boggy. I had been worried it was about to rain but now the sun came out. Another of the typical deep hollows to get across and then a long warm descent among bracken through an area that had been clear felled and I turned down a tiny overgrown path for Brattleburn bothy in a clearing. The Belgians also stayed there. Lots of raspberries. 24 kms

25 July This was not an exciting day. I walked through a mixture of clear felled and young plantations, crossed some sheep pastures and had a road down to the edge of Beattock. It was heavily overcast followed by misty rain. I had to cross the motorway and railway line, more sheep paddocks and walked beside the busy main road into Moffat. I was pleased to see it was a bustling tourist town, imposing church, lots of pubs in a pretty town centre. I went straight to the tea rooms. And then another one! I had gammon, egg and chips at the Annandale Arms. 14 kms

26 July Rest day in Moffat. Didn't do much. It rained. 

27 July I took the very quiet main road out of Moffat back to the trail finding some ripe blackberries on the way. Then I got to Moffat Water, crossed and began the steep climb to Gateshaw Rig. My nice dry shoes were immediately soaked again. The climb wasn't pleasant but up on top was lovely walking with views ahead of Selcoth Burn flowing between rounded hills, a lot of heather, and to the north a whole array of different shaped hills beyond farmland. Blueberries. It was heavily overcast and on the verge of raining.

The trail stayed high until Croft Head then descended on a steep zigzag to a burn. I had a bit longer on the hills passing a circular stone sheepfold like I often see here, went through a fence marking the Scottish watershed (everything now flows east) and came to an active logging area, nothing happening because it was Sunday. Now I was following Ettrick Water down the valley and I stopped at Over Phawhope bothy for a coffee break.

I had a nine kilometre road walk through the valley alongside Ettrick Water in light rain then suddenly the sun came out. I climbed away from the road gradually onto the hillside and stopped by some flowing water to have lunch in the sunshine; it started raining. There seems to be a rule here that the sun can't be out for more than half an hour.

I reached the top and had nice walking along a ridge then descended past a ruined farm. Finally I descended on a gravel track to St Mary's Loch and the former Tibbie Shiels pub and I was happy to find a low key campsite where I could pitch at the edge of the loch. Saw some deer on a ridge in the evening. 33 kms

28 July Extremely windy as I set off along the loch but I was soon sheltered. I went through remnants of forest and reached the head of the loch, then went across paddocks to Dryhope tower, low remains of a 15th c tower. A bit of rolling moorland then I had a long climb on wet grass between plantations; at the top on the moorland there was a great view of hills and I climbed a little more to be able to see Innerleithen quite far away. The hillsides were covered in heather. The sun had come out and stayed out a bit longer than usual. After some lovely hilltop I descended through sheep paddocks and walked along the road to the few houses of Traquair.

I wanted to go into Innerleithen to buy food and have lunch although this involved an out and back on the road. I had a ploughman's lunch and bought bread and cheese and returned to Traquair.

Then I had one of the longest climbs of the route up Minch Moor; at first the trail was in mixed woodland and plantation remnants but once I was higher the vegetation was just heather and a few young firs. Innerleithen looked good. 

This was a drove road/army route that has been in use since the twelfth century. The top of the hill was a dome of heather and it looked wonderful against the partly blue sky.

I had extensive views, sadly many of the hillsides had been clear felled. I immediately went into an active logging area and watched a tree come down. When I got back to the untouched trail I looked for somewhere to camp and found some grass at the edge of the last plantation, up at 500 metres on Hare Law, with a nice view off the ridge to fields far below. 30 kms

29 July I left at 6 with the sun shining and walked for well over an hour along the heather covered tops. At the Three Brethren, three dry stone cairns on a summit,

I started a long descent in mixed woodland and stopped for breakfast at the first burn. The path continued down to a beautiful stone multi arched bridge over the Tweed River.

Then I climbed through grassy sheep paddocks (some sheep were sheltering from the heat by the dry stone walls) and had a view south over Selkirk. I got closer to Galashiels and looked down on the town and also saw conical volcanic hills above (hidden) Melrose. 

When I reached Galashiels I skirted the town on my own route, crossed the Tweed again and followed a rail side path to Tweedbank station where I had a rest. From there I walked beside the Tweed, now much wider, to the edge of Melrose.

I had been looking forward to getting here (hence the early start) but Melrose was a huge disappointment: the abbey was being checked for safety, the fabulous front arch was completely covered by scaffolding and it wasn't possible to get close, all I got to see were the rear windows. 23 kms

30 July I left Melrose crossing the Tweed on a huge suspension bridge and walked along the river, then I had a walk through paddocks and on gravel paths with views of patchwork farmland all the way to Lauder, along the line of a Roman road. Along one secluded lane the raspberries were the best so far and there were lots of butterflies.

I bought food in Lauder, the last place with any facilities on the SUW, and stopped at the bakery.

I returned to the hills passing Thirlestane Castle, crossed paddocks to reach a grassy hill top and went on climbing. There were cows as well as the usual plentiful sheep. Blythe Water was a lovely stretch of stream through a valley before I started my climb onto the Lammermuir Hills. It was a sunny afternoon with a light breeze. Behind me were the Eildon hills above Melrose and farmland, ahead was moorland.

I walked towards Twin Law (thinking I would camp there) and I could already see the two summit cairns from five kilometres away. The land was empty apart from a few sheep and some groups of grouse that I startled. The weather was deteriorating. It was a gradual climb and I got to the summit tired; one of the cairns had a sheltered seat carved in the side out of the wind.

I'm going to claim that I could see a sliver of the North Sea. It was far too windy to camp there and also no suitable ground. I decided to descend to somewhere sheltered and it was easy going, except that I was reaching a sealed road. Fortunately I found a little grassy hollow just before the road, not ideal but it would do. 36 kms

31 July I had breakfast beside Watch Water just up the road and went over a ridge with a view of Watch Water Reservoir; the last of the moorland. Then a road walk to Longformacus, pretty village and I got water at a house whose owner was keen to chat. I stayed on the road to avoid a wind farm, past a few houses. 

When I returned to the SUW I walked alongside a burn and by open fields to Abbey St Bathans; it took forever to get there and there wasn't much: stone houses, closed church and a suspension bridge across Whiteadder Water. At a second bridge I had lunch.

I next crossed a lot of farmland, mixture of sheep grazing, harvested fields, farm buildings and lanes.

I had to cross the A1 and walk between it and the railway line - not pleasant apart from finding a patch of wild strawberries. I went into a plantation and emerged at a very high stone bridge over a deep forested gully; from the bridge I had my first proper sight of the sea, waves lapping gently. I descended on a narrow track in a nature reserve, lots of steps, to Pease Burn and I knew it would be hopeless finding somewhere to camp; I stopped at a bench near the burn with a cramped patch of grass and made do. It was raining before my tent was up. Herons flew over. 30 kms

1 August I got water from the burn and went onto the cliff top path to have breakfast. The first bay was hideously filled with mobile homes but the next one had a little sandy beach backed by red cliffs.

Ahead was a clear view of Torness nuclear power station. I have walked from the Irish Sea to the North Sea! The entire way I have met/seen one couple doing the full route, one person doing a section, a handful of day walkers and six trail runners.

Further along I walked above tiny Cove Harbour, a couple of houses, couple of boats, sandy beach and large sea stack with a hole through it.

For the sake of completeness I went down onto the beach, going through a tunnel at the bottom of the cliff.

Then I continued into Cockburnspath and the damaged 16th c market cross which denotes the end of the SUW. Just before I reached it a woman asked me if I had walked far and it was nice to tell her I had come from the other coast. 6 kms

Unexpectedly there was a shop in the village. Even though I didn't need anything I went there and had a bad cup of coffee and an Empire biscuit, then got the bus to Berwick upon Tweed across the border in England. I walked around the grass covered fortifications with views out to sea. 

Total distance 371 kms; elevation gain 8993 m; 15 days walking plus one rest day

2 August I got the bus to Lindisfarne, also called Holy Island, and walked a lap of the island. I saw seals on the bus ride as we crossed the causeway. My walk started with heading out over grassland (saw three deer) to a series of pebbly beaches, later on some higher cliffs backed the beach. It was a hot sunny day which felt quite strange after all the overcast weather. On my return I had a look around the lime kilns and the castle perched on a rock,

and climbed a tower for a view of the priory ruins (archways and low walls). 10 kms

3 August After early rain another sunny day. I got a bus to St Abbs back over the border and did a nice coast walk: at last a proper blue sky in Scotland. I went north of the village to do a loop on St Abbs Head

passing sea stacks,

deep inlets and a long view down the north coast

(I thought I could glimpse the buildings of Cockburnspath). St Abbs itself was pretty with a little enclosed harbour. 

I continued south on the red cliffs to Eyemouth passing a sandy beach at Coldingham and then pebble beaches. 12 kms