My walk across Tasmania

 I liked the idea of making a north south crossing of Tasmania on foot, straight down the middle. My primary goal was to walk coast to coast. The Tasmanian Trail is a walking, biking and horse riding route between Devonport and Dover which I intended to follow where helpful, and I ended up using it a lot, continuing a bit further to reach the coast.

9 January I took the train to Geelong and the daytime Spirit of Tasmania across to Devonport.

10 January Since the ferry docks down the Mersey River I had to walk from my motel by the East Devonport terminal almost two kms to the north coast so I could start my cross-island hike in a legit place. There's a coastal walkway and I chose a start line on the coast clear of the estuary. 

Then I walked out of East Devonport on the Tasmanian Trail towards the Mersey-side bike path to Latrobe. The river is impressively wide along here with islands. I stopped in Latrobe for a morning snack. I walked out of the town on a quiet road and onto a dirt road undulating across logged hillsides, along a closed road in forest, and a narrow trail which ended at private property where I was required by trail signs to climb three gates, and onto another quiet sealed road.

I ate lunch in an apple orchard with lots of taps but no water. Some views of the Western Tiers. The road descended in bush then grazing land, hot and windy. I reached the Mersey bridge where I intended to camp and could immediately see this wouldn't be possible because there were fences and there was nowhere secluded. The river was very pretty (gurgling and shallow). I got water to make coffee but it was too windy, then at the top of the next hill there was no wind and I had a long break.

I continued to Railton in the late afternoon sunshine, everywhere green and lots of cows looking at me, and camped behind the pub. I got to the takeaway just in time before closing. 31 kms

11 January Beautiful day. I left Railton on a bike trail in the forest (heard lots of thumping in the bush) and then gravel roads. Two locals stopped to chat. Some minor roads with views of Mt Roland, then I left the Tasmanian Trail (because I didn't need to go into Sheffield) and went on a busier road through Dasher River conservation area, where I got water from a creek and had coffee in the forest. Shortly after I peeked at the Dasher River where it flows through a granite gorge and soon crossed it. I walked a gravel road above the lovely Minnow River followed by farmland; it was very hot. I could see the Gog range ahead like a barrier across the road, and sometimes the Mt Roland group.

I stopped to rest near a house and when the owner arrived we had a chat. I stayed on the gravel road parallel to the official trail so I wouldn't have to do the river fording I had read bad things about. The road climbed for good views away from the mountains and went between logged hillsides and native bush. It was deserted so I felt like I was on a walking trail.

I descended to another Mersey bridge where I had planned to camp but again this was impossible. After a long time trying to find somewhere I started up the hill away from the river towards bush. I was getting desperate, it was after 7. Near the top I saw a fence that looked climbable and I went over it to a patch of large trees between two properties where I could hide. I've not done the stealth thing quite like this before. 28 kms

12 January I continued on the hilly road with forested ranges in all directions and even when I turned onto a wider road it was very quiet. Just lovely rural scenery. I asked at a house for water at Dunorlan, strange to be necessary in Tasmania! After a while I had good views of Quamby Bluff and the Western Tiers.

I had a few kilometres on a really quiet road across a valley then a busy road into Deloraine. Tailwind again and getting hot.

The views of the Tiers, Quamby and Projection Bluffs were great at the top of the hill above Deloraine. I went straight to the good cafe for lunch then checked into the pub. I ate at the British Hotel as I hadn't been there for a long time. 21 kms

13 January It was cooler when I left Deloraine. All road walking but quiet, some grazing (goats, cows, sheep) and some bush. I walked towards Quamby Bluff and came very close. I rejoined the Tasmanian Trail as the road became unsealed and entered the forest. I stopped for coffee and immediately lots of March flies descended on me. 

The road climbed until I had a view of imposing Dry's Bluff.

I contoured logged hillsides with views over the lowlands to my east end then the road went down, down, down in rainforest to the Liffey River camping area, one of my faves. I camped by some noisy rapids. It rained in the evening. 23 kms

14 January Perfect blue sky. I stayed on the gravel road above the Liffey River and alongside Dry's Bluff. I was no longer in forest, with a peaceful rural landscape. There were lots of ripe blackberries by the roadside. I reached the old Liffey school building where I made coffee on the veranda. Then I had a stretch bypassing Bracknell. It was hot.

As I walked on towards Blackwood Creek I was heading straight towards a band of mountains and I knew I would eventually be up there with them on the Central Plateau. I saw an echidna. From Blackwood Creek I could see many mountain ranges and a distant town beyond the sheep paddocks. A Danish cyclist doing the trail the other way stopped to chat.

I took a dirt road by paddocks straight towards the mountains

and turned onto the Caves walking track. The track initially crossed Palmers Rivulet and it was so nice there that I made coffee and had a long break. The track was a welcome change from road walking and climbed through ferny gum forest; it climbed relentlessly and was rocky but not difficult apart from a few washouts. I could see Mt Blackwood (the highest peak near here) clearly and had occasional views over the lowlands.

Half way up there were high cliffs, some with small caves and holes, then I came to a much larger cave with a long, almost level, rock platform under the overhang (making it a 2-storey cave). It had been suggested to me to sleep here and I decided that would be fun so I laid out my mat and sleeping bag and had a great al fresco sleep. 31 kms

15 January I continued up the track and saw a few rock pools (I could hear water in the night) then crossed the rivulet. I was walking at the edge of a cloud so the forest ahead was misty.

I emerged by the road on the Central Plateau at 1121 metres as the cloud cleared over the top of Mt Blackwood. Next was 18 kms of sealed road, and logging trucks. As I stepped off the road for one of them I saw a huge black snake. The roadside scrub was in flower and I had glimpses of the Great Lake. 

For a half way break from the road I dumped my pack and went down to Cramps Bay on the lake; the shore was scrub and rocks and the water was bright blue. More road, which was fine during the long gaps in traffic: long climb to high point of 1190 metres, dry sclerophyll forest, views of Arthurs Lake on the descent, Three Sisters peaks in typical Tassie scrub, creeks, rock flows.

I finally turned off for Arthurs Lake onto a gravel road and then a rough path of gravel chips, with several creek crossings on stepping stones. The last kms were by the lake, and the pumphouse campsite (with wallabies) overlooked the water. 27 kms

16 January Beautiful starry night then big gusty wind in the morning. I climbed up to the flume for carrying water from Arthurs Lake down to the Great Lake and followed a trail alongside which was very pleasant, through dry bushland on a ridge on the plateau. I saw wallabies. The wind was strong and cold. I came to the southern tip of the Great Lake (not so blue today), having to make a big detour thanks to an agressive landowner, and headed away from it flanked by low scrub. This part was bleak in the cold wind. I met a cyclist for a chat. I had several kms on the A5 which had a good shoulder.

It was nice passing Shannon Lagoon with swans, then I came back to the Great Lake and could see it all the way to (and through) Miena, a very strung out place with several separate clusters of houses. It was trying to rain but didn't quite.

I stopped for coffee at the first Miena pub and stayed a long time. I was able to walk on a track by the water for a while and arrived at the general store to buy food, next door to the second pub, where I could camp. 23 kms

17 January It started raining at dawn, just lightly at first. I had coffee at the general store as locals came in and chatted about thunderstorms nearby. The shop lady was concerned for me and gave me a reflective strap to put on my pack. To me the hardest part was making the move to set off in the steady rain knowing I had only one place to shelter in 28 kms.

Initially I climbed to very exposed moorland with a strong tailwind, on the Marlborough Highway which turned out to be a narrow gravel road, already full of puddles. I descended to cross the Ouse River in a little gorge and once I reached the top again there was an icy cold squall which was nasty. This eased off and I came to Little Pine Lagoon; I went into the toilet and rearranged my gear.

When I emerged the weather looked a bit brighter and the rain was quite bearable. The road entered light forest and later there were grassy clearings where I saw wallabies. There wasn't much traffic and I only got splashed once. The rain stopped for about 10 minutes then became steady again. Near the end I followed high above wiggly Serpentine Creek and I could see Bronte Park in the distance but it took ages to get there; as I arrived (after six hours of nonstop walking) the rain stopped.

I went in the shop for a pie and coffee and permission to camp. I've never rated Bronte Park and it hadn't changed but I was very happy to be there. It was a hard day and I was pleased with myself. 28 kms

18 January I left Bronte Park in pale sunshine for a few kms of sealed road and highway. At Bronte Lagoon I turned off into the forest and a dirt road for the rest of the day. The road was hilly through forest of stringybark and ferns.

The rain returned, with a few heavier showers. I passed another lake and climbed for a glimpse of Dee Lagoon. Then I came to a line of shacks by the roadside and I stopped at the last one (as there was smoke coming from the chimney) to ask if I could sit under cover to rest; the woman invited me in for coffee. As we chatted there was a huge downpour.

I left: the sun came out, it rained, the sun came out, it poured. The road went beside the lake, pretty in a misty way

then crossed the dam wall and climbed back into the forest where the ferns were lusher. The forest gave way to a vast grassy valley dotted with gums, then I had another patch of forest and reached another valley. It was really windy, like a storm was coming. There were no vehicles for ages then a police car passed and asked if I had seen a particular white ute; I couldn't help them.

At the edge of the valley I had a brief climb in forest to the Victoria Valley campsite for Tasmanian Trail users, on a hilltop among the trees, with a new 3-sided shelter. With anticipated overnight storms, strong winds and the cold, I put up my tent inside the shelter. 33 kms

19 January Very windy night. I soon left the road for a narrow track in the forest. I detoured to Victoria Falls, a reasonable cascade over a small granite cliff. I forded the river and the track was quiet through the forest, a bit wet in places. I heard lots of noises beside the track and finally realised the cause: echidnas.

Where the forest had been cleared I could see a range of dry hills.

After a coffee break I went down a long way to cross a river and I was out of the forest into grazing land and more of a road. I could see a mountain range ahead. The sun was out but it was still windy. The road undulated past dry hills where there were masses of sheep; one time I saw a flock wandering without supervision up the road ahead of me. I turned back onto the road I had followed all day yesterday and then a last turn onto the highway and into Ouse, in the upper Derwent Valley.

I reckon this is about half way so I had a pie to celebrate and checked into the pub. I ate dinner there and it seems the chef quit after doing my schnitzel (with patrons waiting for meals!) 25 kms

20 January After a few kms on the highway (briefly leaving the Tasmanian Trail) I turned off for Meadowbank Lake on the Derwent River. It was peaceful there, completely still with lots of birds on the lake, and I had a coffee break.

Back on the official trail the road went up and over a huge hill, up in bush and down in the open, then I turned onto a very minor gravel road and came to a bridge over the Jones River where I got water (with difficulty). Such a lot of kookaburras everywhere. It was really pretty in the valley with grassy river flats and I had intended to camp there but it was only lunchtime.

I started my climb up Mt Bethune - I hadn't been able to get permission to cross this private land but I went anyway. There wasn't a path at first then only an intermittent worn strip of dirt through tussock grass and acacias and sheep. It was a sneaky mountain with three false summits. I enjoyed the climb and the scenery from the top was clearly going to be spectacular; more and more mountains came into view as I climbed. I have never seen so much sheep poo. At the summit (508 metres) I could see the winding Derwent, the tv pylons on Mt Wellington in Hobart, Mt Field, Mt Anne far to the southwest and much more.

I startled some wallabies on the way down. The descent came straight down the mountainside to a dirt road. The day suddenly turned sunny. I had a few kilometres on this deserted road with close up views of the Mt Field range. Saw an echidna. Short time on a sealed road and I saw a wombat dart into the bushes. I ended my day in Meadowbank conservation park, and found a perfect grassy patch in the white gum forest to camp. 28 kms

21 January There was a lot of wallaby/pademelon activity in the night and into the morning. After a few minutes walking I reached a tiny creek for my first flowing water since Jones River. The route came out onto open hillsides, dry tussock/marshland and evidence of sheep, and I followed a vague track until I stopped for breakfast with views of forested hills south. It was a grey day and Mt Wellington was in cloud.

I came to a trail down a dry gorge (a wombat ran along the edge and zipped into a hole) and then sheep grazing hillsides, and went onto an empty road, descending to the Derwent. After walking above the river and eating some blackberries I crossed the fast flowing Tyenna River, got water and took a break. 

I braved the busy B61 for the last hour, noticing that hop fields are the thing here, and went straight to the Bushy Park roadhouse for pie, slice and coffee. I went on to the showgrounds to camp; not very inspiring but I'd had enough walking. The wind came up crazy again and I was glad to have a shed to sleep in, shared with a number of birds. 18 kms

22 January I had another hour on the B61 but this morning it was quiet. I turned off the bitumen for the long climb onto the Black Hills, mostly grazing and farms and there was no view until I was over the highest point on the road (520 metres). I climbed steadily and was amazed I had already done 13 kilometres when I reached the top. Up there it was chilly.

The view was a wonderful panorama of mountains: I reckoned I could see Mt Anne, Mt Picton, the Hartz Mountains and later a range between New Norfolk and Hobart, and Mt Wellington.

The long steep descent was on a sealed road so I was able to walk fast, coming down into the Derwent valley past small farms. I eventually crossed the Derwent, very wide here, and went up a final hill to the centre of New Norfolk. Straight to the bakery of course. Then I checked into the motel and washed my clothes. 24 kms

23 January Road walking to Lachlan and progress became slow once I noticed masses of ripe blackberries. There was no traffic after the settlement and I could see tree covered mountains ahead; soon I was climbing into them on a forest trail. It was great to be deep in the forest but sad to see so much litter among the trees. The trail went up and up, on the flanks of two mountains I had seen yesterday as I approached New Norfolk.

Soon the Jeffreys Track deteriorated into the mess I had read about: deep ruts, narrow muddy embankments and huge potholes filled with water. Hard going but I then turned onto White Timbers Track; this was worse because it was narrower and there was often no way to get around the giant puddles that were the width of the track and flanked by impenetrable bush. I grabbed onto branches and balanced precariously and was able to get through only wetting my right foot (many times). This was the most challenging part of my whole walk. It had started raining lightly. 

Finally the trail improved to well draining gravel chips. I was on the edge of White Timbers Mountain and could see the higher part through the trees. I went over the highest point of the trail (826 metres) without fanfare and began to descend gradually (in Russell Ridge conservation area). The foliage was all bright green: big ferns, Tasmanian laurel, reedy grasses and the rain had cleared. At a junction I heard water and found a creek, and there was even a bench. Coffee.

I went on a bit further, crossing Judds Creek twice, and at the second crossing there was just the tiny patch of grass I needed; it was tricky fitting my tent in but so good to camp by water. I was directly beneath a conical forested peak. 32 kms

24 January I continued descending in the lovely forest and soon I was passing tucked away properties. Then I was out of the forest with views of the mountain ranges of the south west and entering the Huon Valley. Sunny. I got to Judbury and stopped at the park beside the Huon River. I had a stiff climb out of Judbury and just as the road levelled out I met two bike riders.

Further on I was on a ridge with fabulous views towards the southwest peaks.

Another hefty climb and the whole horizon was taken up with mountains, even the distant Western Arthurs. Straight ahead I could see Hartz Mtn clearly. The trail returned to forest with a few less dramatic mountain views in the other direction and I undulated along.

The descent was welcome, then I found water and started looking for somewhere I could camp. Nothing. I came out of the forest and immediately there were houses and no trespassing signs. Reluctantly I continued to Geeveston; luckily I had a tailwind and it was mostly downhill, into the Arve River valley. On the edge of town there was a cafe so I got hot chips and sat outside. I found the Tasmanian Trail camping area in a paddock by the Kermandie River. 36 kms

25 January I had breakfast in town (coffee and a stale donut) then walked along the Kermandie River before starting another long climb. There were both black clouds and blue sky and it was windy; fortunately I had a tailwind blowing the clouds away from me. I got onto a ridge and had a brief sighting of the huge Huon River estuary. 

I said a final goodbye to the Tasmanian Trail for an alternative route and turned onto a wide and completely deserted logging road. I saw an echidna in the middle of the road and first it froze then it strolled off and hid behind some blades of grass. I found water but it was too windy to be able to boil it. 

Instead of going directly to Dover I detoured to Esperance River campsite which sounded like it was worth the extra kilometres. I took a much smaller trail undulating through the regenerating forest (had a peek of Mt Adamson) still really windy but the threat of rain was gone. A big black snake slithered off the track. 

I came to a bridge over the Esperance River, a very pretty spot with rapids and rock platforms

and found a place to put up my tent above the river, among small trees for shelter. 21 kms

26 January It rained early on but I got up to blue sky. I had breakfast by the river and saw a rainbow over the bridge, soon it was raining again. I walked the forest road and later saw a double rainbow. The showers came and went. I reached the highway at the Esperance River estuary, had a boring stretch then I was right on Esperance Harbour with views of the islands in the bay and hills beyond.

I walked into Dover and went in a cafe, glad it was open since Dover is such a tiny town. It was horribly windy and the weather forecast wasn't good for tomorrow so I decided to get the bus to the Kermandie pub near Geeveston for the night. 13 kms

27 January Rest day. I took the bus back to Dover, checked out the foreshore with views towards Bruny Island and camped at the caravan park. Extremely windy, several rainbows. Dinner at the RSL with Stan, a bike tourist.

28 January I walked around the foreshore and returned to the Esperance River on the main road, picked an apple and lots of blackberries, then turned onto an old logging road. I was close to Mt Adamson, unfortunately the top was in cloud. The wind made the weather just as changeable as before but I didn't expect rain. 

Back on the busier road I needed a break and I stopped at Southport Rivulet: yucky water; then it was too windy; finally beside Lune River I could get water and sit in a clearing. Next I sat by the sad abandoned railway office at Ida Bay for lunch and decided to continue south despite uncertain camping options. The road was unsealed from there, plunging into forest, busy with bursts of vehicles and dusty and not very interesting at walking pace. Hilly. It was a slog. When I got to the d'Entrecasteaux River I tried to get water but the steep access wasn't safe, so instead I flagged down a car for water and after a drink I felt much better.

I finally reached Recherche Bay: coastline at last. It looked lovely in the evening light with gentle waves. There was still a bit further to go for the campsite at Gilhams Beach. It was a long day, worth it to camp with the sound of the waves. 35 kms

29 January Breakfast on the beach, sunny and lots of forest covered hills and little bays. The road went close to the water passing a few bays, then more forest and more coast. Far less traffic. The road became sand. The weather didn't look like remaining sunny as forecast. I came to the bridge over Cockle Creek and the end of the road. I had another coffee on this beach.

My last eight kilometres to the coast was on the South Coast Track. First through rocky gum forest, then a long stretch on boardwalk across boggy ground surrounded by low hills (coral ferns, scrubby tea tree), then tall tea tree forest followed by a damper forest with creeks. 

Suddenly I could hear what had to be the roar of the ocean - it was too loud to be the wind. I descended to a lookout over South Cape beach and it was a wild sight with the rough water, Lion Rock and headlands beyond, South Cape and high cliffs back in the other direction. I had to cross the granite cliffs of Coal Bluff, not going near the edge, and descended to the beach.

The South Coast! My goal achieved. I walked the length of the beach (at the water's edge sat the biggest collection of seagulls I've ever seen) and climbed up to the viewless campsite in the trees. I had lunch and it started raining. I found it too damp and dismal at the campsite so I relocated to a spot just behind the beach with its own little table and close to the creek; the only disadvantage was that I had to put up my tent on sand. When the sun returned I sat on the dunes. The wind was crazy strong. 14 kms

30 January The weather was so good

that I decided to continue to South Cape Rivulet. I saw a spotted quoll scurry into the bushes. I climbed a hill into the forest of melaleuca, laurel, cutting grass and blechnum with a little mud. At the top was a wonderful view of a series of headlands and beaches southwards. This has to be one of the best views in Australia: a series of five headlands with each one the cliffs becoming higher and steeper.

I descended to a beach of sand and large pebbles (it was high tide so I had to walk on the pebbles). Another low hill in forest and I emerged on the beautiful beach leading to the rivulet. I was keen to see the conditions: shallow. I sat on a log and made coffee, completely still and nobody around. 

On the way back I had lunch at the high lookout, inland the endless forest and craggy Mt Pindar and rounded Mt La Perouse.

I returned to South Cape beach, the wind had come up so I didn't stop. Back in the forest I stopped to make coffee at what's become my usual spot along the creek. Then the final traipse across the valley on boardwalk (lovely pink trigger plants and fairies aprons) and the rocky contouring of low hills. 

I am pleased to have done this section of the South Coast Track in good weather, third time around.

I walked over to the camping area at Boltons Green and found a quiet corner but just as I put my bag down a big snake slithered across the grass. So I changed my mind and went further along. A wallaby came to visit as I lay in my tent. Clear starry night. 15 kms

Total 511 kms

Melbourne to Adelaide bike ride

 When I ordered my bike during the pandemic the goal of riding to Adelaide popped into my head. I thought it would be cute to ride from Brighton, Vic to Brighton, SA. It took me a while to work out how I could carry camping gear on the bike, then I got out my oldest setup (because it was the most compact) and it was time to go. I didn't even plan my route properly, I just had a vague plan to ride around the coast because it would be scenic and not too hot.

27 November A bit of a delayed start as it was raining, finely but persistent, kept stopping then starting again. Eventually I just had to get going. I got to the beach at the bottom of Hampton St and followed the bike path to Mordialloc then another bike path alongside the railway line (new to me) to Frankston where the rain returned. I climbed Olivers Hill for the first time in years and went on the highway to Mornington, where it did not appear to have rained at all.

After morning tea I went on the beachside road to Mount Martha and did the roller coaster to Safety Beach, no shoulder but little traffic. On the peninsula I had a long stretch on the coast bike path passing beaches in a little sunshine and going through the foreshore camping areas. I had a headwind for a change. After Rye the bike path was away from the beach, still nice bush riding, and as I came into Sorrento I could see the ferry was docked so I went straight over there without going into the town. The bay looked great from the ferry. 

In Queenscliff I went to the caravan park; it was stupidly expensive so I pedalled off to find another, the next place cost more with nowhere nearby to get food so I went back to the first one. By now it was a sunny evening and I got fish and chips and ate by the beach with a hundred seagulls around me. 97 kms

28 November After drying out my tent I went on to Point Lonsdale, back road to Ocean Grove and a nice off-road track to Barwon Heads, partly right beside the beach. As I was riding towards Torquay a cyclist passed me and commented on my amount of luggage so I told him where I was going; a few kms up the road he stopped and when I reached him he asked if I wanted to have coffee in Torquay. (I had to speed up so he wouldn't wait too long for me.) We chatted for an hour about bikes and triathlons.

I had come into town on the beachside bike path and I stayed on it, crossing the lagoon on a long boardwalk which seemed precarious on a bike. I set off on the Surf Coast path to Jan Juc and Bells Beach, both beautiful even on a grey day, but the path was only suitable for walkers so I came back to the road. The coastal views were more open from the road. I had a pie in Anglesea and rode to Aireys Inlet in light rain and under the Great Ocean Road arch. Then I had whopping Big Hill and a welcome descent. The rest of the way to Lorne was easy riding and empty beaches, views of misty headlands.

Lorne was busy with schoolies and the campground manager thought I should go out of town so I went to the Cumberland River campsite and regretted this: very exposed, windy and basic facilities, and my tent pole snapped. The wind became worse and worse. 93 kms

29 November I packed up quickly before my tent could get further damaged as the wind gusts were severely contorting the poles, and sat in the bbq shed contemplating having to walk to Apollo Bay if the wind meant I couldn't ride. Then the rain came. When it briefly stopped I set off, soon raining again but it was the gusty wind that made riding tricky, constantly changing direction and strong. It was a lovely ride by the water/beaches/rocks and over headlands even while I was cold, wet and wobbly (seemed less difficult than running the GOR marathon). 

I had a coffee at Kennett River and booked a motel in Apollo Bay. There wasn't too much traffic and the rain worsened but the wind was often from behind. It helped that I know so many landmarks from the marathon. When I reached the koala trees I wasn't keen to peer up into the rain looking for koalas but I quickly found a big fat one sleeping.

Coming into Apollo Bay the side wind was finally so strong I couldn't ride and the town was chockers with day trippers. Pie, shower, tried to dry my clothes. Too wet to visit the beach. 37 kms

30 November I never saw the beach in Apollo Bay. I left early, really windy, and had a big climb, in stages, up through rainforest followed by a descent, in stages, to Aire River and a flattish valley of marsh and grazing. I saw a couple staring at a tree and they pointed out a koala to me. 

At the far edge of the valley the road briefly touched the coast at Castle Cove and I had a snack to prepare for climbing Lavers Hill. This was a protracted climb with a few short respites but the wind was helping. Again rainforest and ferny. The traffic was all courteous and no tour buses. It started to rain as I reached Lavers Hill settlement and I went in the cafe (where I could watch 3 varieties of parrot). The road stayed on the ridge (with a few views of inland hills that were marred by the weather) then a long winding descent among gum trees. 

I crossed Gellibrand River and had a climb I had not expected, then from the top it was all downhill to Princetown with a distant view of coastal cliffs. I had the run-down backpackers to myself, next to the closed down pub and closed down cafe. I walked to the Gellibrand River mouth with a sandy beach to one side and a sandstone bluff to the other. 80 kms

1 December The road swooped and climbed. Time for the sandstone stacks and arches. I stopped at Gibsons Steps for two stacks, then the (fewer than 12) Apostles

 and Loch Ard Gorge where the series of headlands and island were impressive. Then I stopped for early coffee in Port Campbell (prettiest town on GOR). I had sunshine at London Bridge

and a quick look at the Grotto, then another stop at Peterborough before the last stacks: Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands.

The road immediately turned away from the coast and with a tailwind I sped along the 50 kms towards Warrnambool through farmland, masses of flies. The traffic was ok until Allansford but then the GOR joined the Princes Highway so I turned off for quiet side roads within sight of the ocean. I crossed Hopkins River (where I walked on my recent visit to Warrnambool) and rode to Maccas to rest and decide what to do next.

I was tired but I went on to Koroit and it was an easy ride with a bike lane and then the rail trail I walked 2 years ago. I set up my tent, walked to the shop and it rained for the first time today. 110 kms

2 December I followed the road above Tower Hill lake then quiet roads back to the rail trail, where it crossed marshland and I saw grey herons and white necked herons, to Port Fairy.

After a quick coffee I set off on what should be the longest unbroken highway stretch of the ride: 60+ kilometres on the Princes Highway. It was dull grazing country, away from the coast, wind farms, but mostly a good shoulder. Just before Narrawong (my lunch stop) I saw a snake on the road and couldn't avoid riding over it (at least I think I did, I didn't look back). It was still windy and became sunny. The only major hill took me up to a ridge and soon I could see Portland. I was able to leave the highway at Allestree for a coast road, straight into the wind but it got me to town. 92 kms

3 December I had read the road to Nelson was rough and full of logging trucks but this was Sunday and I saw few trucks, but it wasn't an exciting ride. It rained a little. First farmland then a little bush and a single great view of huge dunes and the ocean, then pine plantations and logged hillsides. I met a German touring cyclist; we had a one-sided chat because he wanted to talk.

Nelson by the Glenelg River was sunny and unchanged from my last visit on the GSWW, my first long hike. I ate a good pie, bought a freeze dried Thai curry and set off on back roads for Dry Creek campsite in South Australia. No sign at the border.

Dry Creek campsite had a row of boathouses on the Glenelg with toilets and a shelter, pretty because the river is in a limestone gorge, and I had a peaceful hot afternoon there. 79 kms

4 December Blue sky! I had breakfast on the wharf. I took back roads to the Limestone Coast at Brown Bay, long sandy beach, and rode along the ocean. I stopped to see swans at a creek estuary and some offshore rocks and further along the coast I came to Port Macdonell, important centre for rock lobster. It was an obvious place for a day off - waterfront cafes, pub, harbour with walkway - so I stopped for the day at 10. I checked into the pub early hoping to wash my clothes but they had no water until mid afternoon and then I wasn't sure how to get my stuff dry. 30 kms, 620 kms from home

5 December I went around the coast to the spot where the original lighthouse was at Cape Northumberland, South Australia's southernmost point; it was a rugged limestone headland with weird rock formations offshore.

Then a long stretch through agricultural land on a variety of back roads, a little sunshine but cold wind. The landscape was flat, I passed a wind farm, stopped briefly in Kongorong, and saw a couple of hills on the horizon. Lots of straight road, and I was glad to get to Tantanoola, featuring a shelter by the derelict railway station (where I made coffee) and a pub with a tiger on the roof.

The last part to Millicent went by quickly. Millicent was a very ordinary town; I chanced on a reasonable bakery. I continued on the Southern Ports highway. There was a pretty lake on the edge of town and the road undulated for a change, crossing low hills. I stopped at Rendelsham, a settlement that took its history very seriously with lots to read about the railway and chicory farming.

I crossed some wetlands and turned off for Southend, 5 kms off the main road. A lovely small town on Rivoli Bay, the calm water bordered by an endless white sand beach and protected from the wind. I rode to Cape Buffon at the end of the road, stopping at Rainbow Rocks; there were unusual rocks and rocky bays all around the cape.

I also viewed the town's short jetty. There was a basic campsite directly behind the beach. I ate dinner on the dunes. 105 kms

6 December I had breakfast on the dunes then sped to Beachport, enjoying my first day of riding without wind. Coming into Beachport I passed the line of Norfolk Island pines I could see from Southend (except that I couldn't work out what they were from there). There was a bike path along the beach and after that I toured the town, visiting the lighthouse and several headlands for coastal views of limestone islands and sandy coves. I had coffee by the 700 metre jetty (half its original length).

Then back to the Southern Ports highway for Robe. It was nice riding for a highway: very few cars and some views of lagoons between the road and the ocean dunes, some bush, some sheep. Coming into Robe I passed little lakes. I had a very average pie then went to the campground; it had a great view over Guichen Bay, again an endless white sand beach.

I went for a ride around the sights: the iconic obelisk, holes in rocks, limestone cliffs, beaches.

Became very windy, brief shower. I had a zucchini topped pizza for dinner with a glass of local wine, and at sunset the sky was all red. 82 kms

7 December I returned to the quiet highway heading towards Kingston SE. The first highlight was a paddock of grazing camels. Then vineyards and pine plantations.

I turned off for a visit to the coast at Cape Jaffa and rode a lovely wide deserted road passing a few vineyards, including the one where last night's wine came from. Cape Jaffa was a tiny holiday place (with an unplanned cafe) looking out on calm water, strip of beach and very peaceful. 

I returned to the highway on another quiet road and only remained on it briefly before finding a coastal bike path leading right into Kingston, the last part beside a long sandy beach, passing the Cape Jaffa lighthouse which was moved here in 1974 to give the town a tourist attraction. I bought food for the long haul across the Coorong and had lunch at the bakery, ending my time on the Limestone Coast.

I got to the Princes Highway to start on the 145 kms to Meningie, passing the giant lobster that is Kingston's own tourist attraction, and I was pleased to find a reasonable shoulder and little traffic. The road was flat, grassland and low trees. After 25 kms I stopped at a rest area and two cyclists arrived from the opposite direction; we had a good chat and one of them had lost a shoe on the road so I said I would look out for it. That gave me something to keep my mind off my tiredness and I saw lots of things including an echidna and three other shoes. I had a light tailwind and overshot the 28 Mile Crossing campsite turnoff.

The campsite was on the Old Coorong Road; I crossed samphire flats and acacia scrub to reach it and nobody else was there. I went for a walk to the beach, crossing the huge dunes; the beach was windswept. I also climbed the dune by my tent for a view over the samphire flats. For the first time the evening was completely still. 115 kms

8 December I had breakfast on a high dune where I could see the samphire flats inland and also the ocean beyond more dunes. I startled some Adelaide rosellas. It was already hot.

I stayed on the Old Coorong Road for 15 kms to its end, a wide gravel road through the scrub, seeing a kangaroo, a snake, three shingleback lizards and not one vehicle. I had a headwind.

After an hour on the highway (many more trucks today) I went onto another dirt road. This one was badly corrugated. I passed through acacia scrub as the wind became worse and then it rained briefly. I came onto a slight ridge and I could see distant big dunes. I passed a large lake with unattractive murky water then made myself coffee in a sheltered spot by a prettier lake.

When I got going again the wind had died off and soon I had a light tailwind. It was much cooler. I got some water at Salt Creek and continued to the pelican viewing area, once again hot; I saw a snake and some pelicans in flight.

After this the highway undulated right by the water, Coorong southern lagoon, which was nice but became increasingly smelly. I saw several large flocks of pelicans flying overhead. I went out to Parnka Point where the northern and southern sections of the lagoon meet forming a sharp bend. I could see a long way north and south with wide expanses of sand, lots of shore birds, islands, the dunes on the peninsula beyond the Coorong.

My evening did not go exactly to plan. I went to the campsite, saw an emu, and got out my tent; I seemed to have lost the metal sleeve I'd been using to fix the snapped pole and I couldn't manage to put up the tent. So I went back to the second shelter at the point where I'd been earlier (the one I'd been at was full of ants) and laid out the tent inner as a bivy bag with the fly tied down as a roof. 86 kms

December 9 The night was wet and very windy and lots of rain blew into the shelter. I was warm and dry but the noise of the wind made sleeping difficult. In the morning I moved to the other shelter which was better protected from the weather - a good move as it soon poured and poured. The forecast heavy rain had come a day early. The hundreds of birds down on the shore loved it, I've never seen so many egrets and pelicans. Despite the conditions it was an idyllic spot.

When the rain eased I set off back past the campsites (the sandy road quite flooded) and on the last 25 kms of highway to Meningie. It rained steadily.

I went straight to the bakery which was warm inside and the owner gave me towels. The rain got worse and I could only just see Lake Albert across the road. I wished I had booked the motel in town rather than one 2 kms away but when I got there I had a room looking out over the lake and pelicans cruised by. SA got all its average December rain in one day. 29 kms

December 10 In light rain I went the short distance back into town and moved into the other motel as heavy rain was forecast. I stole a spoon to splint my tent pole, then had a walk along the lake and looked at the famous ostrich statue.

December 11 Torrential rain in the night. I left Meningie early and took the back road to Narrung, first by the lake then inland, passing flooded samphire flats, and I had a great tailwind. In Narrung I made coffee then went on the cable ferry across the strip of water connecting Lake Albert with Lake Alexandrina, under the watchful eye of Point Malcolm lighthouse, Australia's only inland lighthouse.

From there I had the most awful headwind and riding was seriously unpleasant. The only distraction was a large flock of sheep crossing the road; when they were half way across they got confused and some went forward, some went back so it took ages for them to be off the road. 

When I reached the Princes Highway for a final stretch I thought conditions would improve but I had a strong crosswind which wasn't fun. I had to stop several times. It was a bleak windswept area of grassland and samphire. Finally I went onto a dirt road parallel with the highway, it was rough but felt much safer. I was happy to turn off for the ferry across the Murray River to Wellington. I was exhausted.

At the Wellington caravan park I got my tent up after a fashion (without the spoon) and just as I finished there was a brief thunderstorm with an incredibly loud thunder crack and then ferocious wind; I lay inside hoping for the best. Then it rained. Again.

While I was at the pub (overlooking the Murray) there was another thunderstorm and a deluge; to my great surprise my tent remained standing and dry inside. 81 kms, 1121 kms from home

December 12 Quite blue sky when I got up and I sat by the river for breakfast but it soon clouded over and as I started the ride to Langhorne Creek the sky looked ominous. It was featureless countryside, cattle grazing, and a distant tree or barn was a distraction. 

About half way I heard thunder then saw lightning and I stopped outside a house so I could run under the porch if it rained. No rain so I went on, in 5 kms it was raining and I saw a derelict stone building for shelter. Unfortunately it was locked but it had narrow eves and I sat there; the mozzies rushed over and when the rain got heavier there were clouds of them all over me, it was awful. In desperation I wrapped my (wet) tent flysheet around me and that kept some of them off me. As soon as the rain lessened I was gone, the light rain felt nice on my bites. A km up the road I saw a shed and I went inside as the rain worsened again. The thunder and lightning had continued all this time.

When I left the shed the air felt fresher and I powered along to Langhorne Creek passing vineyards, although the road was too puddly. I was glad to reach the general store/cafe for a proper break. From there I zigzagged through vineyards to Milang on Lake Alexandrina, very nice apart from a couple of places where the road was flooded - once I had to bush bash and once I got wet legs.

In Milang it was hot and sunny and I dried out my camping gear. Then a fun ride on dirt roads towards Goolwa. I could see the southern end of the Mount Lofty ranges along the horizon. I'd been warned about a ford at Finiss River where the road may be closed due to flooding and it was, but I decided to risk riding through and it was ok.

Then there was a flooded stretch of road which was rideable but deeper. Then I came to another ford (I hadn't known there were two) and this one was even deeper, water up to my knees while riding. 

The last bit into Goolwa was on a busy road. I had a brief visit to Hindmarsh Island over the huge bridge and headed to the caravan park. The day had left me feeling slightly traumatised with the mozzies, storm and flooding. 85 kms

13 December A warm sunny day! From Goolwa I followed an on- and off-road bike route along the coast to Victor Harbor, often slightly above the long beaches and rocky interludes and also through bush corridors. It was scenic but complicated.

I had morning smoko in Victor Harbor as it clouded over. I bought some food and by the time I left town to make my crossing of the Fleurieu Peninsula it was raining and very windy. After yesterday's experience I decided to ride through the rain but I was soon uncomfortably hot in my rain jacket and I stopped at a roadside shelter. Then I sheltered at the Lower Inman tennis club.

One more stop and I got to Inman Valley which I remembered from the Heysen; there was a Christmas party in progress at the shop so I couldn't go in and check if it was better stocked! I had lunch with a cacophony of cockatoos and the weather cleared a bit. The scenery has changed to rolling grassy hills and large gum trees. 

I had a big climb out of Inman Valley, I could see the Gulf St Vincent from the top, and a really nice long descent. At Yankalilla, surprised to find shops, I had coffee.

Easy ride to Normanville and at the caravan park I got a good spot behind the dunes. It was a beautiful beach with a series of misty headlands to the south. Unfortunately far too windy to eat my fish and chips by the beach. 61 kms

14 December I got my tent down as light rain started. Still windy. The hardest hills of the trip awaited me. I called in at Carrickalinga beach then commenced a long steep climb to a ridge with good coastal views. Then slight descent to Myponga dam, rode across the dam wall and up to the viewing area. From here the climb continued over grassy hills. I was glad to be wind assisted and (so far) dry but I could see rain inland. The initial descent was steep then I joined the main road and had an enjoyable descent with full ocean views. 

As I came into Sellicks Beach the rain caught me but I found a cafe. I had to go inland a bit then had a lovely stretch on a beachside trail to Port Willunga beach

then more inland with numerous hills and I came down to Moana beach. There was a good view back along the coast, beaches backed by low cliffs. The beaches feel urban here. I ate hot chips at Moana, that's how cold it was.

The next bit on the clifftop to Noarlunga was great, then I crossed the Onkaparinga River and went up steep beachside roads. At Sullivans beach I had to go inland again, this time on a busy main road which was really unpleasant, until Hallett Cove where I followed a small road then a rail side bike path. Everything is so hilly, quite unexpected.

I was pleased to get to the beach at Kingston Park and it was beautiful in sunshine, finally, so I checked into the Brighton caravan park right on the beach (although not quite in Brighton). I ate at the surf club with a fantastic sea view. Could be my last night ever in the Nemo. 74 kms

15 December A bit of sunshine for the finish. I stayed on the lovely beach path through Seacliff, Brighton with art deco ornamented jetty (original mission accomplished) then Glenelg, West Beach to the Torrens River linear trail.

I followed this trail, sometimes swapping sides of the river, with the river diminishing to a trickle surrounded by trees and then wide and landscaped as I passed the weir and arrived at the festival centre. I went under King William Road bridge and designated Lounders Boatshed cafe to be my finish line. 

Despite copious rainfall and lack of sunshine this has been a great trip. 26 kms, total 1367 kms