Cape to Rocks, northeastern Tasmania

 

I had decided to walk the Bay of Fires as my first hike in Tasmania. Then I read that the coast further north, in Mount William wukalina National Park, is also considered spectacular so I was going to have to tag some of that onto my hike. Logistically this hike would be tricky as the route is point to point with no public transport and drinking water is an issue: there is no water between Deep Creek campsite tank and Binalong Bay town other than what’s in the ocean and a few brackish lagoons. My best option seemed to be doing a series of out and back day walks, returning to the car for water and hopping along the route by car (but I didn’t want to do the sections out of order and it was important to me that the walk be continuous without gaps). This required careful planning as there aren’t many access roads to the coast. Driving to Musselroe Bay on the northeastern tip of the state to start my adventure felt like going to the edge of the world: a narrow road across low bush and heath, next town would be in New Zealand. 

I made Cape Naturaliste, a landmark on Musselroe Bay, the northernmost point of this hike. In a nutshell I planned to walk the coast from here south to Binalong Bay with the only break in the route being the inlet to Ansons Bay. Didn’t fancy swimming it.

January 15. Late afternoon I parked at Stumpys #1 campsite and walked up the beach for three kms to the cape. It was a beautiful beach: white sand, low dunes, medium surf, scattered shells and not too much seaweed. A few oystercatchers hung around at the water’s edge, some squeaking to themselves. On the way back from the cape I had a view of Mt William inland.

When I got to my starting point I continued south on the beach to Stumpys #4 campsite then turned back. The white sand stretched ahead around the bay, punctuated by a few clumps of boulders. There were several lagoons behind the beach among the low banksias and ferns. I drove to Stumpys #4 to camp. 11 kms

January 16. I left the campsite early and started heading south on the beach. It was an overcast day and muggy. It was just after high tide and there wasn’t much beach to walk on but it was a lovely long curve of white sand, with a few oystercatchers and later lots of hooded plovers. Cobblers Rocks interrupted the beach after 3 kms and then I had another 4 kms of sand backed by low dunes. At one point I saw a kangaroo sitting on the dune and he seemed to be watching me. There was a big cluster of boulders, including some of the ones covered in orange lichen for which this area is famous, and I had to climb off the beach, then I came to a succession of smaller beaches.

I could see a largish island and many isolated rocks out to sea. Occasionally a particular rock was covered with birds (cormorants? gannets?). There were some sprinkles of rain but as soon as I put on my jacket it stopped. I planned to turn back after 10 kms but it wasn’t much further to Broad Creek (stagnant) which made a natural turnaround so I continued there. By now I could see Eddystone lighthouse in the distance. On the way back I called in at a collection of huts that must be for the luxury Bay of Fires walk (nobody around) and shortly after I saw a group of 8 walkers heading that way. It was raining lightly but steadily by then so I put on my jacket again. Very quickly the rain stopped and the sun came out. The beach was now wider and the sea was bluer. At Cobblers Rocks I turned onto the inland footpath across heathland with flowering tea tree, grass trees, ferns and banksias. I had another nice view of Mt William. After a break I drove to Deep Creek campsite for the next instalment. The beach had a great collection of orangey boulders. 23 kms

January 17. So much for hiking this route in order: it was high tide when I started out and not possible to cross the creek at the camping area for my walk up Purdon Bay to Broad Creek where I left off yesterday. So I had to head south for the lighthouse instead and fill in the gap at lower tide. I set off on the white arc of sand, initially beside high dunes, frequently having to dodge waves, until I reached Picnic Point. This was a big area of boulders, spectacular, that would be difficult to get over, but I saw a narrow footpath leading through the ferns to some shacks behind the boulders. Suddenly the path petered out so I followed the driveway of one derelict shack to the road and walked along the road a short way until there was a signed footpath to the beach. This was the start of another stretch of lovely beach, with a tiny patch of casuarinas and low dunes. The beach ended at rocks and a lot of smelly seaweed with masses of flies. Again I found a little path heading inland and this took me over the dunes to the Eddystone lighthouse road. I walked along the road to the lighthouse and the point beyond where there was a cove and a pool created by a ring of boulders.

I had a glimpse of the wide beach leading to Ansons Bay. I checked out the start of tomorrow’s walk then retraced my outward walk, with the exception that I found the path bypassing Picnic Rocks and did not have to detour to the road.

By the time I was back at Deep Creek I could wade the inlet and I walked up to Broad Creek which wasn’t far. The overcast day had turned hot and sunny. The sea was the most wonderful azure. I rested in the shade of some tea tree to watch the oystercatchers and returned to Deep Creek campsite. 15.7 kms 

January 18. In the morning a kookaburra was on a branch above my tent. Today’s walk was a loop from near the lighthouse with an out and back tagged on. To avoid any high tide issues I did the half of the loop that went through the forest first. It was banksia forest with low ferns and after an hour I took a twisty track down to the water (at a point with lots of orangey boulders) and the start of the 3.8 kms stretch of Abbotsbury beach.

This beach is on a spit ending at the Ansons Bay inlet which I would not be able to cross (too wet, too deep). I walked purposefully into a howling wind alongside dunes of all shapes and sizes, white or pale brown sand, some vegetated and some bare. I had identified one large dune as being at the inlet and I was right. When I got there I could see tonight’s campsite on the far side. 

Walking back up the beach was lovely with the tailwind. Once I reached the boulders where I’d come onto the beach earlier I expected some navigation challenges in continuing up the beach but it turned out fine as there were little footpads in places where the bouldery parts were too tricky to cross. This is a remarkable stretch of coastline with little sandy coves, long stretches of white sand, beaches composed entirely of shells, and everywhere those bright orangey granite boulders.

More boulders among the bush above the beaches too. I saw a few human footprints but today only the birds were there. I walked the long beach leading to the lighthouse then went up over the dunes to the road (I knew where to get off the beach thanks to a second reccy I did yesterday afternoon) and walked back to the car. Then I drove to the other side of the inlet to camp at Policemans Point which is on the Bay of Fires. 20.8 kms

January 19. I set out at 7am in overcast weather and a strong south westerly wind. This section had several more long beaches and on the first one, 2 kms long, I walked straight into the wind. I saw big Pacific gulls as well as the usual bird life. The sand ended at a long stretch of large pebbles and rocks, the first of two such stretches separated by a kilometre of sand, and this was slower walking although I could escape onto little footpads through the grass (and thistles) above the beach. There were then a succession of little coves with black volcanic rocks forming pools followed by 2.5 kms of sand. This was hard work going into the wind and although beautiful this was a lonely place. There were several lagoons or creeks inland and flanked by tea tree. This long beach ended at a bouldery rib jutting into the ocean, orangey boulders, which would have looked better in sunshine. Above the boulders were some feint paths to help with crossing and I was pleased to be following a set of footprints. I crossed a series of these boulder reefs punctuated by beach and the path above the final one took me high into casuarina forest - quite unexpected. I saw a couple of wallabies. Back down again I walked a few minutes to Gardens Lagoon (which had some timber stumps presumably from a jetty) to call this my turnaround. I was keen to turn back before the wind could change direction.

Walking back was more pleasant but for some reason I was getting tired. I found all the little pads again and also managed to go up several dead ends. The longest beach still felt long. At the first pebbly bit (although calling them pebbles makes them sound much smaller than they were) I went up into the tea tree and walked across some clearings with a lot of signs of animals but this proved to be a detour rather than saving the effort of struggling over the pebbles. In some places it looked as though these pebbles had been smoothed into a roadway of sorts which was bizarre but helped the walking, and there were some kind of hollow pits made from the rocks which may be Aboriginal seal hunting pits. I watched a flock of cormorants flying out to a rock. Six hours after leaving the campsite I was back. 22.6 kms

At 5pm, after I had driven into St Helens to buy food and get water and have a coffee without sugar in it, I went to the end of the road at The Gardens to complete today’s walk. I was very surprised to see lots of people there. I walked along the coastline to the lagoon where I turned back this morning and came back to The Gardens. Things looked good in the sunshine as the weather had turned perfect in the late afternoon. There were colourful boulders at The Gardens, a nice beach, and then two long sections of rocks and pebbles, but mainly rocks (and another of the hollow pits) between where I parked and the lagoon. Inland behind the rocks were paddocks with cows so I must be back in civilisation. Near the lagoon I climbed the dune to get a view with both ocean and lagoon. 4 kms

I camped at Cosy Corner North campsite - all the campsites were packed - with one of the best views I have ever had from my tent:

January 20. A beautiful day. I drove back to The Gardens for my walk south, destination as yet undecided. I had four kms on the road as the coast is all boulders and there is no path and there are two lagoon inlets to cross, but that was fine as the road was by the water and it was too early for traffic. Mainly I needed a break from the sand. At Taylors Beach I went onto the sand for two kms along the perfect white beach.

The forested hills I’ve been seeing in the distance are closer now. There are buildings around and cows and sheep and people so this hike doesn’t feel remote any more; it’s the popular part of the Bay of Fires but nonetheless spectacular.

After the beach I had some boulder hopping and wave dodging at tiny beaches then I followed dirt roads across Sloop Reef (where I had looked unsuccessfully for somewhere to camp yesterday) and a vague path through casuarina forest behind bouldery reefs, and emerged onto Cosy Corner North Beach right below where I ended up camping. Another beautiful beach, separated from Cosy Corner South by a reef which I clambered over. One final beach and I nominated today’s turnaround the reef at the start of Swimcart Beach. It’s a longer beach and worth saving for when I feel more fresh. 

On the way back I got a bit off track on top of Sloop Reef and had to bash through ferns and debris, collecting scratches. 18.5 kms

January 21. Again overcast. I left my waterfront campsite at Cosy South and walked along 1.2 kms Swimcart Beach, clambered boulders, walked little Jeanneret Beach and went into forest above a long stretch of boulders to reach Binalong Beach, 1.7 kms long and my final beach of the hike. These beaches are fabulous, all backed by camping sites, and this feels like holiday central. I walked through the town of Binalong Bay, looking forward to visiting the cafe by the boat ramp, but a sign said it opened at 9am and I was being an early bird today. To fill in the time and to find a suitable point to nominate as the finish line I walked the trail out to Skeleton Rocks in forest of ferns, casuarina and sea box. At the rocks, which seemed to me to be at the southern tip of the huge bay, I sat and surveyed the entire Bay of Fires; I could see Eddystone Point, the high dunes of Abbotsbury Beach, the rocks marking Ansons Bay inlet, the grazing land behind The Gardens, white Taylors Beach and the little bouldery bays near me, and beyond all of this Mt William poked up. When I got back to town I could see the boat ramp cafe wasn’t going to open - a blow - and I continued glumly. In a couple of minutes I spotted a large cafe above the road, open, so I rushed in. I was able to enjoy almost the same view as at Skeleton Rocks. The sun had come out and the bay was that beautiful azure blue. 

I returned along the beaches and over the boulders. When I got to south facing Jeanneret Beach the water was nice and calm so I went for a swim and after that I was soon back at my car, hike done. 15 kms

Howqua and Jamieson Rivers - January 2022

 I got into my head that it would be fun to make a loop route out of walking along the river trails beside the Howqua and Jamieson Rivers in the high country using dirt roads to link the trail ends; the west-flowing rivers run parallel, roughly ten kms apart as the crow flies, on these stretches. This looked an irresistible four-sided shape on the map: four sides, four days. The forecast was for much heat.

January 8  I parked near Running Creek campsite and set out on the Howqua Feeder walking track. It soon climbed high above the Howqua River and stayed up there for a while with intermittent river views. I was hot almost from the start. Occasionally I had a view of forested mountains. I saw plenty of crimson rosellas and was startled to see a small brown snake on the trail. There was an awful lot of blackberry by the river but fortunately not on the trail. The trail was a mild roller coaster and came down to the river bank a few times. 

After crossing pretty Ware Creek I was at Tobacco Flat where I planned to camp. The campsite was at first disappointing, lots of litter and horse poo and virtually no grass, and vehicle marks suggested that camping by the river would put me in danger of being run over, so I settled on a patch by the creek where it made pleasant noises. I went around the site to clear some of the litter. I was initially alone then the campsite was visited by several groups of jeeps and trail bikes, and a group of utes came in to do doughies where I had thought it unwise to camp, but by the evening it became nice and peaceful, tall stringybarks and one 4WD. 11.8 kms

January 9  Mist was hanging over the river when I got up then within half an hour the sky was completely blue. I crossed back across the creek (ankle deep) and soon commenced steep climbing on a dirt road heading away from the Howqua in the direction of the Jamieson River. Today’s section of my route was one part I was uncertain about because I had picked dirt roads off the map that went where I wanted to go without knowing anything about them. They turned out to be quiet (2 vehicles only) and scenic. I went up 600 metres in under 4 kms, so reasonably steep, and with nice window views of mountains. Lots of rosellas. I came to the first junction and continued climbing but more gradually. I was just below the ridge line with great views first on my left and then on my right. 

Shortly after the next junction I came to an old slate quarry with the best mountain views yet and beyond there I walked a ridge with fab views both sides.

I figured I had to have a long steep descent to Mitchells Flat and in the last 2.5 kms I got it, very steep but not too loose and I almost didn’t fall over. I had lunch by Mitchells Creek in a grassy bowl beneath the mountains. Then I started on Mitchells Bridle Track and walked two kms of grassy wooded hillsides and crossed the Jamieson River, my focus for the second half of the route. I didn’t enjoy the river crossing - the pebbles hurt and it was fast moving water. I camped in a clearing above the river and spent a hot afternoon resting. 18 kms

January 10  I rejoined the bridle trail and went into light forest; soon I was high above the noisy river with good views of it and the mountains.

It was clearly going to be a really hot day and was already much hotter than yesterday (which had been forecast to be my hottest day). The trail wound in and out of gullies and there was plenty of blackberry near the tiny creeks. I came right back down to the river, noticing an old iron hut close by, and as I left the river bank I was looking around for the hut; I had my closest ever call with a snake, a big black one, when I felt something moving by my foot and then saw it. 

Then the trail was mostly high up and all I could see was forest in all directions with the occasional glimpse of river although I could usually hear it. The terrain was more open and grassy than where I walked above the Howqua. I saw another black snake and surprised a fat lizard. A section was beside the river but without access to the water due to vegetation.

The last part of the trail was well away from the river, up among the gum trees, and I was getting really overheated. I stopped for a coffee by a little creek and then slugged it out to Grannys Flat camping area on the river (with ducks). I need to cross the river here tomorrow and I had not been totally confident that the tracks leading to the river on each side met up so I was pleased to see a ford and a road on the far side. 18.6 kms

January 11  At 5am a thunderstorm started with a lot of lightning although the rain wasn’t heavy. The rain stopped conveniently around 8am and I waded the knee deep Jamieson to begin my return on dirt roads to the Howqua River. I was in for a difficult walk, a seemingly endless succession of really steep hills going ever skyward. Although hard it was a beautiful walk: I had plenty of views through the trees of mountains with mist hanging around them. 

I was dreading the descent because I hate going downhill on slippery loose dirt, and the descent was quite frustrating because after many steep sections I would again have to go up steeply so my efforts in going down felt wasted. But I didn’t fall. I did not see a single vehicle until I was down and I wasn’t surprised because I can’t imagine who would want to drive on such a road. It was very muggy, overcast and I was drenched in sweat. Most of the time I had views of the mountains as I was usually following a ridge line. The last part coming down was in regenerating forest with views towards cleared land. 

At the end I had a couple of kms on the road I had driven and I finished with a coffee by the Howqua at Running Creek campsite; it was packed. As I sat by the river 15 horse riders came past. 12 kms

I had expected this to be a moderately flat hike but I climbed over 2700 metres, only 400 metres less than on my recent hike where I ascended Eagle peaks and Mt Buller from the Howqua over a slightly bigger distance.