Warrnambool to Port Fairy rail trail

 I decided to walk the Warrnambool to Port Fairy rail trail over 2 days with an overnight in Koroit. After I arrived in Warrnambool I went for a walk down to the beach and along to the breakwater where the rail trail starts, just to get the first bit done and make my walk tomorrow more straightforward. The trail begins with a nice view of a little bay and then I went across a reserve to get back to the motel, illegally stepping across the railway line, which I was going to have to do tomorrow also. 

Nov 22 The first bit leaving Warrnambool was along a little creek and then crossing extensive swampland where I saw lots of black swans and a few herons. From there I had to walk next to a sealed road for several kms; the road undulated so I had some views over the countryside and this was too hilly to have been the original alignment of the rail line. I had not had high expectations of this rail trail route (because it would have been more fun to go along the coast and because these rail trails are rarely exciting, but I was doing it as it was just so nice to be out in the country) so it was great to see some pretty landscapes, but I was pleased to leave the road and continue through farmland. I saw a pair of bike riders laden down with gear.

Koroit, when I arrived, was bigger than expected and 2 cafes were open. I sat at the bakery, which was really popular with people seemingly all buying loaves of white sliced bread, and had an unsuccessful lunch: my potato pie was cold and my coffee was so bad I had to ask for a replacement (I’m not sure I’ve done this before) but that was also awful. 

I checked into the pub then decided it was time for a run. I hadn’t appreciated that the Tower Hill lake was so close; I had been to Tower Hill state park (a volcano surrounded by a lake) by bike in an earlier life but not from Koroit, which is on the back side. I ran uphill to a couple of viewpoints looking over the narrow part of the lake and back of the volcano (also getting nice views over the surrounding areas and the coast) and then on around to see the main body of the lake. This was an enjoyable run, especially to be moving faster after walking all morning. 

In the evening I was eating by the bar and a woman said to me: I saw you running this afternoon, you’ve earned that meal. I replied: Before the run I walked here from Warrnambool and she just stared at me until the barman distracted her.

Nov 23 The trail out of Koroit was across grazing land, lots of cows then some sheep. 

And quite a few tiny birds. Much of the trail was dead straight (a slight irritation I have with these rail trails since it makes things less interesting, but at least this one was out in the open rather than through a corridor of trees so there was stuff to look at) with a few bridges once I reached the marshy part. There were virtually no remnants of the railway apart from mile markers. Just past Moyne former station site and picnic table (the only one) I saw a runner then had a chat with a riding couple. There was a brief patch of bush. 

The trail crossed some small creeks and was sealed for the last few kms into Port Fairy. In Port Fairy I managed to get a drinkable coffee. The town was so busy for a Tuesday I was very surprised. 

After a suitable break I walked over to Griffiths Island and did the track/beach loop on the island via the lighthouse, seeing oystercatchers and a wallaby on the way. I could see bad weather coming and I only just made it to the shelter at the end of the walk before a huge thunderstorm hit; I waited a long time in the shelter then ran in stages back into town, carefully avoiding flooding.

Mileage: first day 20 kms walk then 9 kms run; second day 18 kms walk plus 5 kms visiting the island.

Mallee Parks hikes, northern Victoria

Lake Becking

It seemed like I was finally going to be able to make my hiking tour of the Mallee parks (Murray Sunset, Hattah Kulkyne and Wyperfeld) 16 months since I first tried to come here and ended up driving all the way to northern Queensland instead, then in August also being thwarted by the sixth lockdown when I barely got out of Melbourne before turning back for a 4 month stay at home. It was very wet when I got to the Mallee so I stayed overnight in Ouyen. 

November 7 I started my hike in Murray Sunset National Park from Lake Crosbie, one of the Pink Lakes, walking along the lake edge with lots of purple flowering noonflower and heaths, and I saw my first Mallee ringneck parrots. 

At Lake Becking campsite, where the approx 60 kms Sunset Remote trail officially starts, 2 rangers drove up and we had a quick chat. I walked along that lake edge then went away from the lakes. Weather was coolish, few spots of rain, bit sunny, muggy and still. Mainly overcast. The sandy trail, which the rangers had warned me of, was nicely damped down. I saw plenty of yellow and white flowers - everlastings, all sorts of wattles, tiny purple lilies. Little wrens and wagtails. The flies were awful and I regretted not bringing my head net which I've never used. The trail was very straight but quite undulating so gave good views over sandy forest from higher points. I stopped for a snack at a water tank after 8 kms. The water tanks have no way of catching water so hikers have to rely on the rangers topping them up, which made it good luck that the rangers knew I was out there.

The track is the shape of a P starting at the base, and a km from the tank I passed the bottom of the curved bit and continued straight ahead. The low mallee scrub became mallee gum forest later. Some bigger climbs and views to cleared farmland beyond the park and little blips of hills. My back was getting sore and the weather got warmer. I reached the top of (low) Mt Crozier (which is where I turned at the top of the P) then descended steeply to the deserted campsite, which was in a clearing with big puddles and brand new toilet and tank. The facilities and signs on this track all appear new. The evening was a nice temperature with a slight breeze and then a starry night. 21 kms

November 8 Sunny day with a cool breeze at first. More undulations with views to a forested ridge which was like a long bush covered sand dune. The mallee was sparser. I had a coffee break then came to saltbush flats and saw the largest kangaroo I've ever seen, and later several normal sized ones, very shy. The vegetation was changeable, mallee woodland, saltbush, casuarinas, scrubby heath and plenty of porcupine grass. I saw a possible Regent parrot and many ringneck parrots and lots of galahs whose screeching completely dwarfs the gentle sounds of the other birds. My intended campsite at Mt Jess had a tank and nothing else but was in a nice patch of woodland adjacent to sandy flats. 

Mt Jess was a little mound. It was very hot by midday and mallee doesn't give any shade. I sat all afternoon in the crook of various trees. 18 kms

November 9 Going to be another hot day. There were some tiny pale birds, weebills, in the branches above my tent. I walked towards then up another of the long sand dunes and along a ridge with views over mallee forest hearing and seeing lots of little birds. The flies were still very irritating. I saw a few kangaroos and lots of wildflowers. I stopped for coffee near salt flats and saw group of what I thought were emus running away.

I had a short stretch through mature pine forest, quite out of place here, then finished the loop part of the P and returned to the long straight. From the junction I could see Lake Crosbie in the far distance as the track is dead straight. I stopped again at the water tank and decided to take an alternative track which went past extensive salt bush then into light mallee. This was a sandy vehicle track and the only soft sand I've encountered here, but nicely winding. I stopped briefly at an almost dry lake then came back to Lake Crosbie. I could see my car 2 kms away. By the last part by the lake I was hot and tired and glad to reach my car. Later on I went for a short walk to see Lake Becking again as I missed it on my return route and it was very pretty in the sunshine, round and pinkish as the Pink Lakes are supposed to be. 25 kms

November 10 I drove to Hattah Kulkyne National Park and started out on a hike from Lake Hattah. The lakes and associated bird life are the main feature of this park. After only a short way the hike proved impossible as the track was under water. Every few years the lakes here have their water levels topped up because they have become detached from the creeks that run between them and the Murray River and  I hit the week this was being done. This resulted in most tracks being flooded. So I turned and walked in the other direction, planning to tackle my planned walk from the other end and turn back when I had to. I got a couple of kms down the track and it was great, flood plains with salt bush  and I saw first a couple of emus and then a big group of them plus several kangaroos. I was enjoying this and further on I came to a fork in the track where I could potentially do a little loop, but after a few minutes I came to flooding from another lake and had to turn back. I managed another shorter loop which went right by the shores of 2 more lakes (one advantage of this lake filling is that the lakes are much closer to the trail than normal where the trail isn't inundated). 14.5 kms

The campsite there was under water so I drove to Lake Mournpal where there is another campsite. I couldn't quite reach the campsite as there was a causeway under water, so I parked and walked the last half km. As I started walking a couple with a 4WD, who were looking at the flooding, noticed the coffee cup in my hand; at least you've got your coffee they said and I didn't like to tell them it was a cup of wine. The campsite was right by the lake and really lovely: red gums galore, ducks on the lake and parrots.

November 11 I drove to the northern section of Wyperfeld National Park and walked the Casuarina Loop. This solved my problem of how to tag this bit of the park onto my next planned overnight walk in the southern section without a lot of out and back. The walk featured yellow grassland with full size box gums, cypress pines and lots of birds. And flies. It was quite windy and not tremendously exciting because it was all on wide flat vehicle tracks. 9 kms

November 12 Rain was forecast for most of the day. Now in the southern part of Wyperfeld I planned to walk from Black Flat carpark to the Northern Remote campsite on the Cameron and Freeway tracks, passing Lake Brambruk (which I somehow assumed would have water in it) and return on Meridian track, making a big loop plus an out and back detour to the campsite. It was cold as I packed in the carpark and I realised I had left my rain jacket in the pub in Warracknabeal, but luckily I keep my old one in the car. I set out across the lightly wooded grassland, the trees were mostly red gums and impressive. 

Quite soon I saw some kangaroos and emus. Quite soon it started raining. I saw an amazing bright yellow Regent parrot. After 7 kms there was a water tank and a side track to Lake Brambruk, which I followed until my gps told me I was standing in the lake; it was obviously completely dry because all I could see was grassland. 

I went on to the start of the Freeway track. Sadly this track lived up to its unfortunate name: it was a sandy track soon flanked by young pines, constantly undulating without achieving any views and I found the next 10 kms a total trudge. Plus the rain, although light, was unceasing. But no flies whatsoever. I was delighted to reach the junction with the Meridian track and once more grassland, and I stopped to make a cup of coffee under a tree. The rain got heavier then lighter. 

I had decided during the afternoon not to bother with the campsite and turn back towards the car down the Meridian at this junction (just camping by the trail as there were plenty of clearings) partly because of the rain and also wanting to avoid the out and back to the campsite as the track was proving less fun than I anticipated. But seeing grassland and big trees ahead I opted to continue to the campsite and this was a good move. It wasn't far and I saw lots of kangaroos and the campsite had a tank and toilet. The toilet was very handy for changing my clothes, resting and cooking as the rain picked up again. The area where I walked yesterday was only a few kms away. 23 kms

November 13 It rained all night but cleared up around dawn and I had some sunshine as I walked back to the car and saw a few lingering kangaroos. This track was much more enjoyable with a variety of trees, gums and pines, flowering heaths, bush peas, eremophila with red bell flowers, yellow pennants, everlastings and views over the grasslands and several dry lakes. It crossed several dry gullies and it's hard to believe there is ever much water here. I had remembered Wyperfeld as being very sandy but I only came to one place with extensive sand.

The red gums are really impressive, being so big and so many of them in this arid environment which can’t be expected to support such growth. I found it slow going on the sandy track heading straight into the wind. I walked steadily and stopped after 9 kms at a water tank but it was too windy to boil water for coffee. Then I went onto a signposted narrow track which was really nice deep in the bush but wasn't on my gps map, and I managed to go wrong and end up by yet another dry lake; I turned back and found the path that was on my map, but I would have been ok if I'd stayed on that other track.

 I was really surprised to find that my car had company when I got back to the carpark; I had seen absolutely nobody around. As I drove off a big fat goanna was crossing the road and it tried to scurry away with rapid movement of legs but it couldn’t decide which way to go. 15 kms

Loop Hike from Powelltown - Oct/Nov 2021

 

At last I was able to hit the trail again, as the lockdown was over and I was prepared to chance my back strain, and the weather forecast was great for the exact three days I had available. I decided to do a loop starting from Powelltown and covering a portion of the Walk into History trail I did in December last year. I suspected the campsites would be busy as this was the first weekend we were allowed out of our 15 km radius and it was easily made into a long weekend by the Melbourne Cup holiday.

I parked outside the church in Powelltown and headed up Monett Road. This was a typical forest dirt road, deep in the bush and narrow. A small sign at the start of the road said it was closed due to road conditions but I decided to chance it, as the sign looked old and I knew I could always turn back and drive somewhere else nearby to start the walk. As a side benefit I realised this would mean no vehicles on the road. The road was a gradual climb with lots of tree ferns among the tall mountain ash and birdsong. I saw a couple of black cockatoos and heard lots of their screeches. It was still and sunny and I already regretted not having brought my shorts. After about 5 km there was another sign warning of road closure and shortly after I came to a barricade across the road; I continued around it and within a km I came to another barricade marking the end of the closed section. I could not for the life of me see why this section of road was unsafe.

The last bit to Starlings Gap campsite was on another dirt road, much smoother and I stopped by a little spring to make a cup of coffee. When I got to Starlings Gap I was not surprised how crowded it was, with already 16 tents and masses of cars. Lots more people were still arriving. I chose to camp right where the Walk into History trail enters the forest as there was a patch of flat ground. The large groups played music until about 1.30am but this didn’t keep me awake. 11 kms

In the morning I walked to Ada #2 campsite where I camped last time and noticed that there had been some trail maintenance, as there was far less tree debris than before. The ferns were wonderful and this was quickly becoming the least windy walk I’ve done all year. 

At the campsite I had a quick chat then continued on a km to Ada Creek where I sat on the bridge having coffee. The trail was not especially damp but I was immediately found by leeches.

Then I joined another forest road and walked downhill for a long long time to the Latrobe River. Walking beside the river and hearing it gurgle was very pleasant and I was only passed by a couple of vehicles. When I came to the Latrobe River campsite/picnic area I found the river was high and part of the area was flooded. I sat at a picnic table and had lunch and chilled and thought about where to put the tent. Just before I got it out of my pack I decided to check my route for tomorrow and I suddenly realised I was not at the campsite, which was away from the river and 500 metres further up the road! I went on to the campsite in the forest, which had marked sites unlike last night, and of course they were all taken, so I chose a nice spot right next to a picnic table. I enjoyed looking up at the tops of the tall spindly trees. 20 kms

In the morning the forest was in fog and it was cold so I lingered in bed. Then I remembered I had to walk along the sealed road for a while and I thought I should get going before it got busy. It was fairly busy anyway and I was pleased to reach the High Lead car park where I could turn onto the Walk into History trail and follow the river all the way back to Powelltown. I stopped at the first log bridge for a coffee break and I took a photo; when I got home I saw that I took the exact same photo last year. 

There had been maintenance on this section too but there was plenty of fresh blackberry coming through. When I reached the main road I decided I would try to find the back route into Powelltown as shown on my gps; last year we had tried unsuccessfully to find this route out of the town but after a few false starts I found a trail going right back to my car and avoiding the main road entirely. However it was very muddy. Disappointingly the shop was closed, so I had lunch at the picnic ground and drove to the bakery in Woori Yallock. 15 kms