Cape to Cape Trail, WA

 I had long wanted to do the 125 kms Cape to Cape trail (Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin) in the southwestern corner of WA but I hadn't yet worked out the best season for avoiding both cold weather and crowds. Thanks to covid I was marooned in Perth when I was meant to be doing a Heysen section in SA and, seeing it was likely that Perth would soon be locked down, this seemed an excellent time to embark on the trail. I had to buy a functioning rain jacket (a lot of rain was forecast) and then off I went on the bus to Dunsborough.

June 30 I set out from Dunsborough to walk the 16 kms to the northern terminus of the track at Cape Naturaliste lighthouse. It was overcast but not cold. I wasn't expecting a marked trail but I found one, through Meelup Regional Park, in nice bush. After only 6 kms I stopped for a coffee break at Meelup beach, a little curve of white sand. The trail varied between heathland on cliffs, sandy beaches, a bit of boulder clambering. Patches of blue sky appeared. Yet again I was treated to some lovely wildflower displays: a lot of Cape Naturaliste claw flower (red flowers), tiny white flowering wattles (taxandria juniperina), big and small yellow flowering bushes (guinea flower). From Bunker Bay beach I could see the lighthouse on the promontory ahead. I passed 2 cafes without going in and then when I decided I would go in the cafe at the lighthouse it was closed.

I walked out to the lighthouse and then started on the Cape to Cape track. A couple of people at the lighthouse wished me well. It was initially sealed and went through more wildflower displays (especially a red flowering cockles tongue I had also seen in Lincoln NP). The coastline was very indented and the surf was big. Sometimes the trail was quite rough with sharp limestone rocks and there were curious rock formations, but mostly it was a sand single track. Soon I saw some wildlife: I saw a large rodent; a dugite (small greeny brown snake) slithered off the track; I saw an osprey on a branch. I walked along Kabbigup beach on white sand and followed the track on the cliffs. It was windy but not uncomfortably so.

I reached Mount Duckworth campsite, a clearing in melaleuca forest, and very soon light rain started so that was good timing. I used fallen branches to anchor down my tent on the sand as there weren't any rocks. I could hear the surf all night, over the sound of the rain. It was fully dark by 6pm. 27 kms

July 1 It rained all night and into the morning then stopped at 7.30 and I had a warm sunny day. I came back to the coast and had some long beach walks along Yallingup and Smith's beaches, slow going on soft sand. I was intending to go to the cafe at Smith's beach but it was closed. The coastline was beautiful with many little coves backed by granite cliffs and long sweeps of sand.

The trail was not flat: there were many steep climbs over headlands and long descents back to the beach. And plenty of lookouts. I was surprised to find a freshwater creek and I collected some water. The bush was full of colourful flowers including delicate pink pimelia, tiny lilac angled lobelia, little purple flag, lots of cockles tongue, yellow guinea flower and golden cascade and prickly Moses acacia. The variety was totally amazing, and this isn't yet wildflower season.

Just before Injidup beach I met some hikers doing the trail the other way and I was able to enquire about the river crossings ahead. Injidup beach was long and hard - they haven't got the idea of firm sand here - lots of cuttlefish remains and blobs of jellyfish. The 4WD trail I walked on most of the afternoon was also soft sand. I made a detour to Quininup Falls, a lot of water dropping into a small pool over granite slabs. The terrain became swampy and spots were flooded. I saw a group of kangaroos. I've been seeing a few birds but not a whole lot, which is how I remember the Bibbulmun.

The last part of the trail was back in bush which was much lusher than earlier and it would have been hard to pass someone. Banksia trees appeared and in the more open parts I could see the spires of lots of grass trees. Moses Rock campsite was on the clifftop and damp so I think it must have rained there today. (I had seen a rainbow while walking.) With nothing to anchor my tent I tied it to the picnic table. 24 kms

July 2 A hot sunny day while I was walking. My first task was to cross Wilyabrup Creek at its mouth on the beach, and it was only knee deep so that was ok. That was my only beach walking for the day. The trail was mainly on heath covered clifftops with views over bouldery coves and sometimes in swales. There were long stretches of rock platforms, and big granite outcrops dotted through the heath. I saw a lot more pimelia and a bush just starting to blossom with clusters of orange flowers, (gastrolobium bilobum, heart leaf poison).

In Gracetown I was excited to go to the one and only cafe but I picked up a distinct anti-hiker vibe so I didn't stay long. From there on the trail gave breathtaking vistas over long sandy beaches with what looked to me, and I’m guessing to all the surfers out there, like perfect surfing conditions. 

I left the coast to go to Meekadarabee Falls (I missed the falls) and a little grotto on the creek, where I had a long chat with a local couple who were astonished at my bravery in hiking alone. Ellensbrook campsite was close by in the forest. I had just set up my tent when a day hiker walked in and we chatted for almost an hour; she had done this full trail and was about to do Larapinta so we had lots to talk about. Just as she left 2 guys arrived to camp. Although the campsite was over a km from the beach the thumping of the surf was the only sound until the rain came.19 kms

July 3 In the end the decision about safely crossing the mouth of Margaret River was made for me; after a walk through a tunnel of shoulder high banksia and acacia I came to a sign telling me I had to take the inland route south. By now it was raining again and I sped along a sandy 4WD track, a sealed road and a bikepath into Prevelly, where I ended my day early at the caravan park, and the sun came out. I had an immediate coffee and cake; this could be becoming the Cake to Cake trail, and then strolled along the beach to a perfectly situated cafe on Gnarabup beach. 14 kms

July 4 The weather was awful in the morning and I debated staying the day in Prevelly but then the rain seemed to clear. When I checked out of the caravan park the owner showed me the BOM radar picture on his computer and offered to come and pick me up if the conditions got too bad.

It didn't take long for the rain to start again and before long there was thunder and lightning too. When that finished the rain got heavier for a time. I was deep in the bush and enjoying life in a waterproof rain jacket. I descended hundreds of steps into a gorge to a secluded pool and as I contemplated a break the rain returned. I wandered alongside a creek to Redgate beach and had a few hard kms of walking on soft sand. The sun was trying to appear. 

Beyond the headland I had another short beach to walk with a creek to cross which should be easy due to a sandbar; but it was high tide and no sandbar and I got my timing sufficiently wrong that I ended up with wet feet. Luckily not cold. I went into melaleuca forest and had my overdue break in a clearing. From here the track climbed through heath to the clifftops and there was a stretch with limestone caves, stalactites and dripping.

The views along the coastline were awesome: long sandy beaches and bouldery headlands, blue water as it was now sunny and lots of white froth as it was very windy.

I went into Contos campground to get some water and continued to my destination, dry (as in no water tank) Point Road campsite. As I arrived the rain came. Then the sky turned completely blue but within half an hour it was raining again. It was a huge campsite, deserted apart from really persistent magpies. 20 kms

July 5 The wind was hugely gusty in the night; I couldn't feel it, only hear it. I didn't worry about branches falling from the trees nearby but maybe I should have: when I left the campsite there was a newly fallen branch across the path out. I walked through the Boranup forest with karri and marri trees, grass trees and ferns. The weather was peculiar all day: in the morning I had rain followed by clear blue sky followed by hail, more sun, more rain. 

When I reached Hamelin beach the whiteness of the sand was dazzling. I had 5 kms of beach walking and I rushed along because I was keen to eat cake at the cafe at Hamelin Bay. The sand was reasonably firm and I had sunshine for the first half, so nice views of Hamelin Island. Then the sky ahead was the blackest I've ever seen and soon the deluge came, but it only lasted about 2 minutes and the sun came out. Sadly there was no cafe at Hamelin Bay, just a shop at the caravan park with a coffee machine. I sat outside the shop eating my lunch thereby avoiding a shower and more hail. There are supposed to be stingrays at the pier but they had stayed away because they knew no tourist in their right mind would be out in this weather.

I had another short beach (where I saw a group of Elegant parrots) then a climb to Foul Bay lighthouse from where there was a fantastic view over the inland hills and back to Hamelin Island,

some heathland (I saw a double rainbow and 2 Western rosellas) and then I walked through some of the most unusual coastal formations I've seen: a kilometre of limestone pinnacles, chasms and blowholes. The blowholes were fully performing which meant stepping over them needed good timing, and the chasms were not to be taken lightly either.

After a few boulder strewn beaches,

and offshore islands I came to white Deepdene beach and part way along I turned into the forest for Deepdene campsite. I was alone with the wind and the sound of the surf, and the sudden showers continued. 29 kms

July 6 The strong gusty wind wasn't gone but I walked without rain for a long time. I walked another 6 kms on Deepdene beach, mainly barefoot once I had taken off shoes and socks for a creek crossing. I had a tailwind that was so strong I couldn't keep up with it, which is an unusual sensation. Another double rainbow.

Then I had another stretch along weird limestone formations, at one point there were granite boulders on the beach beyond the limestone shelf, a very odd look. The trail went into bush with some ocean views and I could already see the terminus Cape Leeuwin lighthouse on a promontory far away. 

The final part of the trail was difficult because of the wind and because I wanted to keep my shoes dry. I had to clamber over boulders and dodge wet seaweed and avoid completely flooded sections of trail, all this with the wind trying very hard to push me off course. When I reached the lighthouse gift shop/cafe the guy asked if I'd been on the Cape to Cape and told me to go and hug the lighthouse.

I was literally 10 paces from the lighthouse when a deluge started and I raced for the lighthouse doorway to shelter. The doorway didn't provide any respite from the wind, though, and I battled to get my rain jacket on; by the time I got it on the rain had stopped. I wanted to walk around the outside of the lighthouse but the wind was so strong I couldn't stand, let alone walk, so I returned to the cafe and had a large scone with jam and cream.

I walked the extra 9 kms to Augusta with a tailwind again so the wind must have swung around, at first by the ocean, now the Southern Ocean while I had been walking along the Indian Ocean before Cape Leeuwin. I got to Augusta as more heavy rain came and by the time I was ready to check out the town there was a town-wide power cut caused by the weather and everything was closed. I had been fortunate with the weather because the rain was much worse in the following days and there were incredible wind gusts at the cape up to 125 kph. 24 kms

Larapinta Trail, June 2021

 This was my year to walk the Larapinta Trail in the NT's West MacDonnell National Park (notionally 223 kms from Alice Springs to the top of Mt Sonder) and I was keen to see what it was like; it comes so highly recommended by those who have done it (spoiler alert: this is at least 100% justified) and it is the trail more than any other that people ask if I've done. I had heard the trail was going to be very busy this month, but having managed to avoid the Melbourne lockdown myself this lockdown then worked in my favour keeping trail numbers down.

June 10 I set out early and it was very chilly - it was minus one overnight. I walked along the bikepath from the centre of Alice Springs to the Telegraph Station where the Larapinta Trail officially begins. Not for the first time I had trouble locating the trailhead, which was behind some derelict buildings.

The trail was mostly single track, winding along the valley floor with many small climbs over low hills. I was immediately struck by how green the landscape was, green trees and grasses that were more green than yellow. There were sheer red rock walls and lots of separate rocky bluffs. An early highlight was Euro Ridge, narrow and overlooking large valleys. I didn't know what most of the plants were but there were masses of white mulla mulla, pale lilac flowers, all sorts of acacias, grey cassia and many bushes with tiny pink or red flowers. 

I stopped at Wallaby Gap campsite for a break. It was a little windy and definitely not hot. There were lots of birds flitting about and not shy (black wagtails with white chest). Then I continued along past a variety of unusual rock formations; occasionally the trail went into a bit of denser woodland. 

I had views over endless grasslands dotted with dark coloured trees until I descended to Simpson's Gap, passing a pair of ringneck parrots, and put up my tent. I had a little camping area with a shelter to myself but I could hear other people around. I wandered down to the gap. There was a wide dry river bed with a few small pools of water near the base of 2 rocky mountains that had a narrow gap between them.  29 kms

June 11 It was extremely cold in the night but the day soon warmed up and was much warmer than yesterday. The trail sidled grassy hillsides with several bigger descents to the base followed by climbs back up, with many amazing mountain views. I feel this is going to be a wonderful hike. The track wound past Arenge Bluff 

then descended to grasslands and crossed several wide sandy river beds, with huge red gums, Flinders Ranges style. Actually it's all very similar to the Flinders but with more grass and less bare earth. I was seeing a few lizards.

I stopped for lunch at Mulga campsite and now I know which of the many acacias is mulga. it has unusual furrowed bark and very thick needle like leaves. It was just a big open area but I enjoyed sitting there in the stillness.

I passed 5 people walking the other direction. Spring Gap was a nice spot where mountains came close together only separated by a dry creek bed, sandy but also quite rocky. Then the trail went parallel with a series of rocky mountains, a stunning view with the dark foliage, red rock and blue sky. I stopped again at a high point and when I stood up I saw a line of mountains on the horizon ahead.

My day finished at Jay Creek campsite, a lovely setting near a creek and right beneath a mountain. I was all alone. Only 2 days into the walk it already feels very remote from civilization. 26 kms 

June 12 This was a great but hard day. I started in the river gorge, walked past Fish Hole

 then came to grassland and found myself in a bowl surrounded by high mountains; this was to happen many times today. 

Soon I came to the start of the high route along the Chewings Range. It was initially easy then a steep climb over rocks and quite rough. For the first time the track wasn't super well marked but I made it to the top of the range and from here I had a couple of kms of fantastic ridge walking. The mountain views were tremendous, range after range.

There were all colours of flowering bushes including red flowering mountain hakea. I stopped at the highest point for a while and when I started my descent I soon bumped into 2 guys hiking towards me and we had a long chat. They pointed out Simpson's Gap way in the distance and Brinkley Bluff which I will climb tomorrow. They told me the descent facing me would be harder than the climb and they were not wrong: it started innocuously enough but became bouldery and rough. I emerged at Miller's Flat, a grassland bowl ringed by mountains, and thought the hard part was over so I relaxed in the sun. I was surprised to find lots of cycads in the area.

But the next part was challenging both for the rugged terrain and route finding. I got alarmed when I met an oncoming couple, actually I heard them from some way away having an argument, because they said it had taken them 5 hours to reach our meeting point which was a surprise to me. The trail went through a series of delightful gorges;

each one required a long steep climb in and out, sometimes boulder hopping was needed, and with all the climbs it took a while to get to Standley Chasm but not 5 hours. 

I got there around 2pm. I had a coffee (not good) and kitkat and then a bowl of hot chips at the cafe, and went to check out the chasm. It is very impressive, but when I came here in 2002 on the afternoon after the Alice Springs marathon you were allowed to walk through the chasm and inside the gorge and you can't any more. There were 7 other tents at the campsite, only one other walking west. 17 kms

June 13 It was a much warmer night and muggy morning. I walked uphill through a gorge and then climbed steeply out of it. Then I began the long climb to Brinkley Bluff with more colourful flowers. I had a few spots of rain. I contoured along to Reveal Saddle then turned for the summit. The mountains to the north were more vegetated, so appeared greener than those to the south. I saw lots of zebra finches (red breast and striped at the back). There were many false summits along the way and a long knife edge ridge to follow but the climb was gradual. The wind came up quite strong. I met several people along the ridge and it was nice to chat. (Like yesterday I was passing other hikers often.) At the summit, 1209 m, I sat sheltered from the wind to check the views but it was too windy to linger.

The way down was different, initially rougher, and then a lot of sharp zigzags. It rained properly, enough to need rain pants and jacket. After a while the track was on grassy mountainsides until I reached Stuart's Pass campsite which was by a wide creek bed. The sun was coming out so I stopped there for lunch; it was a lovely spot with the trees full of budgies. Then it rained again. 

The trail was alongside the creek through tall grass and mulga. It rained a bit more before I got to the campsite. So many people kept arriving (nobody else going west) but I found somewhere secluded to camp. I am still surrounded by mountains. I made the short walk to Birthday Waterhole, a muddy pool and not very special. 18 kms

June 14 It rained most of the night then by 8am the sky was completely blue. I think this was the best day of the hike. I began with lots of zebra finches again as I climbed to a small saddle. From there  on were several different yellow flowering acacias and big clumps of spinifex. Also holly grevillea. Quite soon I entered Spencer Gorge which had sheer high sides and quickly became rugged going, with lots of boulders to negotiate and taking me uphill.

When I exited the gorge I continued climbing to Windy Saddle with a fantastic view back to the gorge and not at all breezy.

I climbed on and was going to have a toilet break just before hitting the Razorback Ridge but in the nick of time I noticed many people looking down towards me from the ridge, so I had a snack instead, and when the people reached me we had a detailed chat about our packs; I'm enjoying seeing different brands for a change.

The ridge (1090 metres) was narrow at first with excellent views to both sides, with mallee.

I descended with lots of switchbacks and came to Fringe Lily Creek, very pretty. I went to check out an underwhelming water hole then sat in the creek bed. Another walker joined me from the west and said she had the feeling that nobody else was hiking in her direction!

The trail climbed in grasses to a saddle with a pleasant breeze and then I descended to Hugh Gorge Junction where I had lunch in the creek beneath high mountains. Again masses of budgies in the trees, many of them red gums. I walked through Hugh Gorge and was happy that the walking was relatively easy, except that I had to remove shoes and socks to wade through water, and had to be careful to avoid getting wet or muddy shoes in a few places. There were little fish in the pools, the only time I saw live rather than dead fish.

I camped in the creek near the Hugh Gorge shelter and it was a nice still late afternoon, the only sound being birds tweeting.. The mountains look so good when the tops are lit by the last of the sun's rays. 4 of us here, 2 each way. 16 km

June 15  This isn't billed as the most exciting part of the trail but I looked forward to a change from the rugged gorge work. The track undulated across grassy acacia flats and over low hills; the ground was still rocky. The Chewings Range I have been following faded into the distance and new ranges appeared to the north. I saw a couple of little brown bowerbirds and a big cloud of budgies. There was a little breeze to keep the walking comfortable.

I had a break at Ghost Gum campsite (lacking ghost gums though) and stopped for lunch at Rocky Gully campsite, the only hiker campsite of the hike where the toilet paper had run out. Although it was the middle of the day it was a pleasant temperature in the sunshine. Even the flies respected my need to rest. I saw almost no one today.

I had earmarked a dispersed camping spot not too far on that was shown on the map. It turned out to be in Ellery Creek river bed. It was a little windy down there and as the river bed was just sand I had a lot of trouble putting up my tent; as soon as I got one side up the other would collapse, until I went on a search for rocks, which did the trick. I think it is totally unreal to be able to sleep in a random river bed in the centre of Australia. 23 kms

June 16 Back to freezing cold night and there was frost on my tent and pack in the morning. But as soon as the sun came above the horizon (around 7.30) I skipped warm and went straight to hot. The trail continued across the grassland and I met my only hiker of the day. I was coming closer to another mountain range, the Heavitree.

At Ellery Creek South shelter I collected my second food drop and had a change of underwear, chucking out the old stuff. Such luxury. I had a quick look at the large pool; it was cold there as it was still shaded but the water was the nicest fresh water I've seen.

The track passed through some interesting terrain with random piled up slabs of smooth brown dolomite that could have been walls from ancient settlements. It was like a rollercoaster and sometimes the walking was on quite sharp rock. I was sandwiched between 2 mountain ranges and there was also a road parallel but very little traffic that I could hear. The area was very green and there were purple candle like mulla mulla everywhere among the spinifex. There are 2 types of spinifex, bluish bull spinifex and pale green hillside spinifex. The highest point had a trig point and a sign saying Trig Point. I was mostly in full sun, as usual, with a slight breeze; it was warm and pleasant although I was happy to find a rock to sit on in the shade by a creek bed for my 3pm lunch.

I got to Serpentine Gorge campsite and there was just one couple, hiking west. From now on, in contrast to my first week, I was to sleep almost exclusively with walkers heading west. I walked to the gorge, with a great lookout over the red walls, and a pool of greenish water. Walking back to the campsite the silence and stillness were wonderful, the peace broken only by groups of finches and budgies. 22 kms

June 17 A much warmer night and then a cloudy morning. Although the day started with a steep climb to the top of the Heavitree Range this was my easiest day so far. At the top of the climb I followed the ridge northwest. It became windier and stayed coolish. 

At the Counts Point turnoff I dumped my pack and walked to the lookout at the end of the spur, pretty high at 1140 m. The views from here, even on an overcast day, were amazing: for the first time I could see Mt Sonder (the climax of the Larapinta) and it was lit by sunshine, and I could see a misty Mt Zeil. The gully below me was sharply defined by rock walls. There was a large group of supported walkers there and I passed another such group on my descent.

The descent was in acacia forest with views south and I saw lots of spinifex pigeons; they flap very noisily. The day remained cool and I reached the shelter at Serpentine Dam by 1pm.  I went to check out the small dam (built in the 1960s) and a very impressive nearby chasm. 15 kms

June 18 A bit of everything today, except sun. From the campsite the trail soon came to Inarlanga Pass which took me over the Heavitree Range and into the next valley. The pass was full of large rock debris and quite lush with cycads and trees. On the other side the area was very dry with little colourful rock flowers and sparse mallee. The trail undulated up the valley, a similar valley to the one I had looked down on from Counts Point. I had quite a strong tail wind but hikers coming towards me were well rugged up.

I got to Waterfall Gorge, beneath a conical hill, a smallish gorge with the usual steep red rock walls and a line of wattles in full yellow blossom. I took water from the pool and made coffee. Next I climbed to a lookout above the next valley over and with a great view of Mt Giles, a huge hulk.

I could also see Mt Sonder clearly. Further along the ridge were several camping spots and one of them had a couple of milk crates so I took a load off for a while and had another coffee. Some passing hikers asked if I always carry a milk crate with me. The weather was still dull and cool but the wind was less intrusive.

I came downhill on long zigzags and now the landscape was bumpy and looked like a papier mache relief map. There had been considerable fire here and my intended camp was too depressing among charred remains. Some passing hikers told me I was hiker number 41 going my way today; it's interesting that in all my time I have never had to overtake a single walker and I've only been overtaken once, by a group of runners, despite the volume of people out here. They suggested a camping spot and it worked out well as it was protected by trees (mulga and weeping emu bush) and had a rock view. 24 kms

June 19 The night sky was clear and busy with stars but by morning strong winds blew clouds in. I treated myself to a lie in. Shortly after I left there were spots of rain and the sky behind me was black; I still had a tailwind so I was a bit concerned but I didn't have far to go. The sky began to clear luckily and I had a nice view of sunlit Mt Sonder. The trail contoured down to Ormiston Creek which had yucky water pools but I was back to the high rocky bluffs. I asked both the walkers I met if the coffee was good at Ormiston cafe.

The sun was coming out by the time I reached the kiosk at 10.45 but it was apparently only 11 degrees. Yes the coffee was good. And the muffin. And the focaccia. I had a quick look at Ormiston Gorge pool and otherwise did very little apart from chatting and resting. 6 kms

June 20  I intended taking a couple of days off the Larapinta to climb Mt Giles. I was a bit nervous about doing this because I didn't have a map - there is no actual trail - but I had been told in great detail about the route by someone who had done the climb last week. I set out walking into Ormiston Pound on the Pound Walk and then following Ormiston Creek. The creek bed was a mix of big boulders, little boulders, pebbles, bedrock, sand and patches of dense vegetation. Sometimes there were low red rock walls at the side but usually the sides were sandy banks with dense grass. There were many little pools, I had to wade one, and I saw cormorants, ducks, and a lot of green slime. There was plenty of white dried up slime on the ground too. In a couple of places there were bush melons attached to vines lying on the sand. I had some very nice views of the mountain (from different angles) and of the escarpment I had walked along 2 days ago. 

I not only had to reach the mountain I also had to get around it to the climbable south face. I walked the creek for almost 5 hours and when I didn't come to the clue I'd been told about for leaving the creek I felt I had been there long enough anyway and set out cross country for the base of the mountain. This meant multiple in and out of ravines, much spinifex and prickle bushes, and deep grass. The terrain had not looked like this from a distance and it wasn't fun. After an hour I was at the base of the mountain but I couldn't see any of the landmarks I'd been told about. It was very hot. At 3pm I reluctantly called it quits as I didn't want to get into trouble by running out of water or plain getting lost. Or - heavens above - falling if I tried to climb the rocky face. I followed a minor creek back to the main one to save walking through the nasty stuff again. As compensation for the aborted climb I promised myself a nice camp in the creek bed and I walked another hour before setting up my tent in a great spot directly facing Mt Giles. It was a beautiful clear evening and starry night.  24 kms

June 21 I made good time walking back along the creek and I was back at the Pound in 2 1/2 hours, which makes me think I hadn't gone nearly far enough along the creek yesterday. It was hot and sunny but with a light wind.

I went into the Pound to walk the remaining part of the Pound Walk which went through the gorge.

There was now a cold wind blowing. The gorge had amazingly high red walls and big sandy beaches. And boulders. I am quite over boulders now. I had to wade across the creek, well shaded in the gorge, and the water not only briefly came up to my waist but was icy. Even in the sunshine it took me ages to get warm.

I collected my food drop, had lunch at the campsite and rejoined the Larapinta to walk to the next campsite, Finke River. This is the shortest section of the trail and just meandered over a few mallee covered hills. (I like it that only a few minutes away from the bustle of Ormiston Gorge you can see no sign of road, cars, buildings.) I had to cross Ormiston Creek once more (I thought I'd finished with that one) where it was now about 50 metres wide. 

I had decided to sleep in the shelter as I haven't had the shelter sleeping experience yet and I had laid out my stuff but then 2 nutcases arrived at 7.30pm so I went to the river bank and pitched my tent. Early on the wind came up; the tent fell over once, then I got it to stay up with a lot of heavy rocks. In all my windy camping I think this was the most ferocious wind yet, but the night wasn't cold. 20 kms

June 22 It was a dark day, threatening rain often but I only had a few drops, and terribly windy. After early kms on grassy river flats (with 2 diversions necessary where the river had water so couldn't be crossed), and one beautiful desert rose, I came to the feature of the day; the climb to Hill Top Lookout at 990 metres. This was quite a long climb (with 3 species of blue flowers (rock fuschia, dolomite rock fuschia, flower,   ) and both sorts of spinifex, taking me right in among the high bluffs and as I climbed the wind became more extreme. Along one ridge it was hardly possible to walk and the mallee was blowing around like crazy. The river valley looked very green from above.

At the lookout there was a fantastic view of Mt Sonder, much closer now, and several camping clearings. I picked the most sheltered one to make a coffee (my back to the view unfortunately). Very soon I was joined by a group of 5 guided walkers and I really enjoyed their company. Coming down was still windy but less of a problem and the flowering mallee and wattles were such bright yellow.

When I reached Rocky Bar Gap campsite  I decided to stay the night there as it was a nice clearing beneath the high rocks of the gap. There were grey headed honeyeaters hanging around the water tank and also some bees. We were 5 at the campsite, together to the finish I think. The rain came at 6.30 and lasted most of the night. 15 kms

June 23 We all waited until the rain had gone (I lay in bed watching some doves scavenging for food) and I set out at 9am. The trail meandered around the base of the mountains, crossing a few rocky creeks, and there was little view as the clouds were hanging low. I saw a beautiful bright blue splendid fairy wren. I got to Davenport Creek, another wide sandy creek, and Redbank Gorge shelter at midday. 

By 2pm it was nice and sunny and there was a good view of the ridge leading up Mt Sonder. I walked down the creek into the gorge. It was impressive with high walls, even caves, meeting around a pool, but there were more dead fish than I've seen anywhere else. I camped on the creek bank. 12 kms

June 24 The night was so cold that I had real difficulty getting up in the morning. I lay in bed watching the birds on a ghost gum outside the tent. 

Around 11.30 I started my hike up Mt Sonder, the final section of the Larapinta. It was warm but not hot and only slightly breezy. The track climbed steeply at first (masses of mountain hakea and blue eremophila), followed a ridge, descended to a saddle and finally climbed for a couple of kms. There was a good view of the mountain part way up but I couldn't see the summit until I reached it. You don't actually get to the real summit but a bit lower on a secondary summit at 1360 metres. The real summit is on a knife edge and a sacred site and the lower summit was fine by me. I sat in the sunshine, almost alone, looking east towards Alice Springs seeing a multitude of mountain ranges separated by expanses of spinifex, river flats and bush. Absolutely no signs of human life. It is a great way to end an epic walk. I walked back down and strolled to the car park which I designated as the hike finish line. 15 kms

Altogether I have walked 286 kms.

Investigator Trail, South Australia

 

I had tried earlier in the year to walk the Investigator Trail in Lincoln National Park (SA) on a triangular peninsula 15 kms south of Port Lincoln, but I had been thwarted by a lack of good information and worry about availability of water. I had spoken to the park ranger about the water situation and come away dispirited. That's when I did Walk the Yorke instead. Now, with 3 days to kill before I would be allowed out of SA into the NT to do Larapinta, I decided to plunge in and do this trail. I didn't have time for the full trail so I opted for the more enticing part, the eastern loop, which visits numerous beaches, and I planned an anti clockwise route to leave a short distance for the final day when there was 95% chance of a lot of rain. It wasn't a hot time of year so I hoped to wing the water problem and I expected there would be people around in case of an emergency water shortage. As it transpired there is not a huge water supply in the park and I saw almost nobody during my 3 days. My other problem was how to get to the park because initially I had intended to walk there from the town (there is a trail, another one I hadn't been able to get info about) but I didn't have time for this; I thought I would try to get a taxi to the park and afterwards walk back to town if I had no way to call one for my return.

June 5 The taxi I'd booked came to the motel just before 9am and by 9.15 I was in the national park ready to start my hike. Surprisingly easy. I set out towards Pillie Lake, parallel with the coast; this coast faces Port Lincoln. The trail went through  mallee bush and I was amazed to see so much blossom: white flowers of melaleuca acuminata everywhere, rice flowers, red correas, red cockles tongue, then all sorts of acacias including the prickly paradoxa, and the weird leafless exocarpos. I met a couple of daywalkers and 2 mountain bikers.

Pillie Lake was a large oval of bare sand. I laughed when I recalled that I had asked the park ranger if the lake might have drinkable water. From there I walked 12 kms across the peninsula to the outward facing coast, all in bush. I had sunshine interspersed with drizzle and then quite suddenly a heavy downpour. I quickly put on rain pants (my old ones) and jacket and realised that neither of these are waterproof any more. Luckily it wasn't cold. The trail immediately became a river and I couldn't avoid getting wet feet. I got to Taylors Landing campsite (2 campers) and was going to have a break but it was still raining so I needed to keep moving. 

I came out onto a small beach and then a longer one. This was a narrow strip of white sand backed by low dunes (with sea spurge, spinifex and saltbush) and just enough hard sand. The rain stopped and the sky turned blue. I could see islands nearby, a few boats and the water was a lovely blue.This lasted for several kms then I went into melaleuca/ acacia forest and then out onto the heath covered cliffs. The plants seemed more varied than usual. There were round granite boulders at the water's edge and some groups of cormorants. I rushed along towards the promontory of Maclaren Point  but I didn't go right out to the point because I wanted to get to the campsite. I went half way along the next beach to reach the campsite but I couldn't find it because I was expecting a place with a hiker shelter, toilet, water and I saw nothing but a small sandy clearing. It was already after 4pm and I thought I had enough water so I decided to call it a day. I put up my tent behind some bushes on the dunes and settled in for a night of loud waves. 30 kms

June 6 I packed and left my camp and only 200 metres down the trail I came to the hiker shelter, just a water tank with a roof. I thought my previous night had worked out well as the shelter had no soft ground nearby and no view. I had breakfast there then continued to Carcase Rock Beach, named for a tiny island offshore, sharing the beach with oyster catchers and hooded plovers. There were more clumps of granite boulders, some with cormorants and I could see lots of plovers and (grey) sitting on the water. It was a perfect blue sky day. More melaleuca and clifftops then I reached September Beach, another long strip of nice sand and not too much seaweed. I had a long break at the picnic area by the deserted campsite.

Soon I was at Donnington Lighthouse and the tip of the peninsula, and I started heading south on the Port Lincoln side. As I came to the start of Fisherman's Point Beach 

I heard a raucous noise and looked around to see an emu running in a circle because it didn't know where to go, while its mate watched, then both ran off. There had been white caps on the water on the other side of the peninsula but here the water was calm (and the beaches full of seaweed). I was looking directly towards Stamford Hill, the highest point on the peninsula, and behind it was Port Lincoln.

I walked on the cliffs to Spalding Cove Beach then walked this 2 kms beach; the wind had come up and I was going straight into it. Next was a really lovely cliff top walk passing numerous small sandy bays to Surfleet Cove, a beautiful beach I did not walk on. 

I saw a Port Lincoln parrot: green with pale blue tail feathers. The next beach was only short but hard to find somewhere to walk as it was covered with seaweed and it was high tide. From the campsite at the end (where I saw another pair of emus) I detoured off the Investigator Trail to climb Stamford Hill because I like to climb hills and I expected a good view over the national park. It was incredibly windy on top. There was a monument to Matthew Flinders who sailed here on the Investigator in 1802 and climbed the hill to look for a water source. I could see back to the lighthouse and all the bays in between, and small islands, plus the town. 

As I walked down on the other side I saw vast expanses of green, some of which I had been through yesterday. Just after 5pm I got to Woodcutters Beach campsite. It had numbered campsites but no facilities and I was not surprised to be alone. I could see the lights of Port Lincoln across the water. 30 kms

June 7 I was expecting bad weather today. Around 4am a strong wind came up but the day dawned with a blue sky. I didn't have much water left (I'd been able to get water twice yesterday) so I set off without coffee and I walked a mixture of bush, road and beach (horrible head winds and soft sand and the water was very rough). I was pleased to identify a silver plover - it has to be in flight to show its black wing tips. I rejoined my first day's route with all the white blossom and I noticed many flowering correas (red bell-like flowers). After a couple of hours I stopped on the trail to sit in a sheltered sunny spot and have a cup of coffee knowing I had enough water to finish. 

When I started up I saw I was in a race with the rain; the sky ahead was black and a gale was blowing towards me. I was only a km from the end when the rain came and it wasn't heavy. Yet. 

At the park entrance shelter (where I checked the park map and verified that I hadn't missed any water tanks) I called a taxi and I was soon back in town. Within half an hour there was a deluge and it stayed wet all day. I never really got to see Port Lincoln properly. 15 kms, total 75 kms

Another chunk of the Heysen

 I decided to do another section of the Heysen and picked one slightly further north of where I left off last time, avoiding an area of fire damage and meaning I could walk from Tanunda through the Barossa Valley while the vines still had a few autumn leaves; I was always frustrated when I did the Barossa Marathon that the vines were bare.

May 25 My walk didn't get off to the best start: off the plane in Adelaide I had to take a bus from Adelaide to Gawler and connect with the bus to Tanunda; I missed the connection by a few minutes and had to wait almost 3 hours in Gawler, basically all afternoon, for the next bus. By the time I reached Tanunda it was almost dark and too late in the day to walk to my planned camp at Greenock, and it was so wet and windy that staying in Tanunda was a no brainer. 

May 26 Much improved weather. I left Tanunda before 7.30 and once I was out of the town the walking was very pleasant, passing vineyards with remnants of autumn leaves. The trail was either dirt roads or on lightly vegetated strips between fields, or sometimes right down the middle of the ploughed field. I was surprised at the level of activity - like people gardening among the vines. I stopped at the general store in Greenock for a coffee and the owner was interested in what I was doing and told me about other walkers who had been by recently.

After Greenock I climbed onto a ridge with good views across farmland and gradually left the wine country. I had to cross a deeply carved dry creek which was full of rusty car parts. The walking was easy, just a little undulating, and often along fence lines. Close to Kapunda while following another big dry creek I met a pair of trail runners and chatted with them while they walked for a bit. When I got to Kapunda I decided to call it a day so I could have another night in a warm room and I checked into a very daggy pub, paying extra for heating (which they insisted on calling air con). 29.5 kms

May 27 Another early start and I walked the 12 kms to Lights Hummocks campsite along dirt roads and fences. Just before there I met a couple of hikers coming towards me. So there are other hikers on this trail!  I stopped at the campsite for a coffee break, it was in a nice patch of bush.

Most of the day I was walking along fences in farmland and it was not terribly exciting. Often I could see a good trail on the other side of the fence but I wasn't allowed to use it. Sometimes sheep grazing, sometimes furrows and straw. I got a bit tired of climbing stiles over barbed wire or electric fences. (For the next 5 days it was always a relief when there was a gap in the fence so I didn't have to use the stile or, better still, an open gate.) The sun would come out, go in, threat of rain, blue sky, repeat. There were plenty of birds around, galahs and honeyeaters.

Towards the end of the day I caught up to a hiking couple going in my direction and we went into light bushland. There were some beautiful huge gum trees (stringy barks and red gums) and a lot of dead timber and this was a lovely change in surrounds from all the ploughed fields. I was pretty tired by then. 

The trail climbed Peters Hill and followed a ridge with extensive views in every direction, then descended rapidly to Marshall's Hut in its own little hollow, a spacious old stone building with bunk beds for hikers. I preferred to use my tent, but I enjoyed having the company of the couple (whom I next saw in the pub in Burra) and Heidi (thru hiking northbound). 35 kms

May 28 The day was bookended by lovely walking. I started back in the hillside reserve, more big trees, and then a wooded corridor between the reserve and paddocks. Then many kms on gravel roads through farmland. I came to the mini settlement of Marabel and stopped at the memorial park to use the flush toilet and make coffee.

From there more dirt roads, slightly undulating. I could see a wind farm nearby, which is not a good omen when out walking, but most of the turbines were not operating so that was cheering. In the other direction was a range of low hills, the Tothills, and this was my destination. I climbed the wooded range and then walked in bush for several kms, very nice after all the farmland. However it was overcast and the views were unexciting. 

The campsite on Smith Hill was in light woodland and had water and a small shelter. I picked a patch of flattish ground overlooking the valley I would be crossing tomorrow. It was peaceful with just a slight breeze. Heidi camped there too. She has the tent I almost bought when I got my Tarptent. 26 kms

May 29 The wind picked up hugely in the night and it was cold. By the morning it was ferocious and I packed quickly without stopping to eat breakfast. I descended off the ridge and then went through the bushland and along dirt roads, all with the roaring wind. (So I was right to be unhappy when I saw the wind farm.) Sometimes the wind pretty much blew me into the fence I was walking along. I was wearing all my clothes and I was not overheating even with a blue sky and sunshine. After 7 kms I stopped under some slightly sheltering trees and ate a breakfast bar. The next part went more easily, probably because I had just eaten.

I stopped at Webb Gap campsite where there was a water tank and found a sheltered place to make coffee. Soon after I left I passed two farmers and I asked them to turn off the wind. I don't know what they did but the wind was never as bad again!

The walking was so much nicer. I took off my beanie but still needed my gloves. First a tree lined road through sheep grazing country then a climb back up the Tothill Range passing through Niblet Gap. This was all bush, red earth and stony. I saw a few kangaroos. Then the trail went along the edge of the range crossing several deep gullies before descending back to the sheep. 

The trail crossed the valley and followed a dry creek with lots of big gum trees dotted about. It was really pretty in the sunshine. I came to Huppatz Hut and put up my tent with difficulty in the wind, now strengthening again. Heidi arrived soon after. 30 kms

May 30 In the evening the wind became wild and I found it hard to fall asleep with the noise of the tent flapping. Towards morning one pole fell over and half the tent collapsed over me; I left it like that and fell asleep again. 

I had breakfast in the hut then set off back across the valley and up onto the range; I enjoyed the climb so much I went right to the rocks on top, missing a turning. I saw many kangaroos. The descent was quite steep in lovely woodland and the trail stayed in the woodland for a while. There was a perfect blue sky (with the moon still out) but it was cold and windy.

I had a long climb along fences with plenty of sheep around ( I saw a few dead sheep and a dead eagle) and I came into Worlds End Conservation Park. I saw hakea, saltbush, etc. By now I was mostly out of the wind and it was so hot I could walk in shorts. The trail went into a gorge and I walked down in the dry creek bed. This was a mini version of the gorges I walked through on the northern part of the track. Then I stopped for a coffee break and while sitting there I heard a voice which I thought was Heidi talking on her phone and I called out; it was a couple who weren't sure where the trail was and we had a chat, among other things we talked about where I was going to camp and I mentioned that there was no water at the nicer of my options. I continued through the gorge, came out and walked along the bitumen road. The couple I'd met pulled up in their car and offered me a litre of water! (I later bumped into them again in Burra.)

The last kms were along dry Burra Creek and I walked in the creek bed for a while although this was not the trail. I came to the car camping site, very nice near the creek with lots of trees, bins and a toilet, and I was happy I could camp here now that I had enough water. Heidi arrived just on dark. 19 kms

May 31 It was freezing cold in the morning and the water in my water bottle was frozen. But no wind. I got up quickly and walked to the nearby hiking shelter with a water tank, 2 kms, to have breakfast. The trail followed a dirt road for ages through farmland with low hills covered in yellow grass in the distance. It was fast walking but monotonous. The sky had a little blue but a cold wind was picking up.

I turned off to follow fences across grass paddocks. Stiles and more stiles.

There was far too much tumbleweed; the prickles kept getting into my shoes and under my arches and I had to stop and pull them out of my socks. The trail crossed a couple of deep creeks (dry); as usual the banks were steep. Eventually I reached the highway and the trail appeared to be along the verge, but it didn't look friendly to walkers there so I climbed the fence and walked at the edge of the field on a dirt path. At the far end I exited via an unlocked gate and felt vindicated in my decision. 

Now it was time to go over the hills I'd been parallel to all morning. This was nice: grassy hills with flocks of kangaroos and when I reached the top I could see Burra in the valley. I descended to Burra and my hike was done. I had barely stopped since breakfast. 

I went straight to the bakery for a large snack and when Heidi arrived we crossed the road to the pub to get rooms. 25 kms

I have now done about half of the Heysen.